Friday, February 27, 2015
The Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) included a visit of a French winery - Maison Trimbach in Alsace. When you look at the map, Alsace is just opposite of the Baden region on the other side of the Rhein Valley and below (south of) the Pfalz region, which is also on the western side of the Rhein Valley. So, being in the south of Baden with a number of wineries in the Pfalz as next leg of the trip, Annette had included a night in Alsace coupled with a visit of Domaine Trimbach and a dinner in an Alsatian brasserie. Good thought!
It was very interesting to taste the Trimbach wines and compare them with the German wines. Even wines of the same grape variety are distinctively different. This is due to different terroir but in a large part to the different philosophy of winemaking in Germany and Alsace. In a nutshell: the modern German winemaking aims at elegant, fruity, crisp, perfectly balanced wines whereas the Alsatian winemaker wants body, boldness and strength for the wines to accompany the hearty Alsatian food.
This “detour” gave us the opportunity to explore the small, picture-perfect, medieval Alsatian village of Ribeauvillé. We had a memorable dinner at a local brasserie, eating typical Alsatian food and drinking Alsatian wines.
Jean, Pierre, Anne and Hubert Trimbach
Trimbach is one of the big names of Alsace. Outside of Alsace many people associate Domaine Trimbach with the face of Jean Trimbach. Because it is him, who tours the world and promotes and sells the Trimbach wines around the world (with 85% of Maison Trimbach wines exported), while his brother Pierre Trimbach stays in Ribeauvillé in the winery and looks after the winemaking. So, I have enjoyed a number of evening with Jean Trimbach and his wines in Washington DC, as well as a tour and tasting at the winery in Ribeauvillé with Jean Trimbach.
This time, Jean was travelling as was his nice, Anne Trimbach, Pierre’s daughter, the oldest member of the 13th generation, who is working alongside Jean and also travelling around the world, and we were hosted by a very competent Domaine Trimbach employee. But Jean’s uncle, Hubert Trimbach from the 11th generation, dropped by and we had a chance to chat with one of the Trimbach family members. His brother, Bernard Trimbach, father of Jean and Pierre Trimbach retired in 2008, when Anne Trimbach joined the team.
Maison Trimbach’s wine-making history goes back to 1626, when Jean Trimbach was recognized as a citizen of Riquewihr in Alsace. From then on, the Maison Trimbach became renowned for its wines. However, it was not until the turn to the 20th century, when, under the leadership of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach, business really took off. Since then, Maison Trimbach has remained a family run business, based in Ribeauville, just a few miles north of Riquewihr, were it all began almost 400 years ago.
Maison Trimbach is very export-oriented with more than 85 percent of the production being exported. It is both a domaine and negociant, thus it produces wine sourced from own vineyards (40 hectares) and from lease contracts (60 hectares).
Maison Trimbach's vineyards are all situated around Ribeauvillé, where the soils are mainly limestone. The best sites include the Grands Crus Rosacker, Osterberg and Geisberg, but as indicated above, Maison Trimbach is one of the winemakers in Alsace that are staying away from the Grand Cru AOC system, while Maison Trimbach’s Clos Ste Hune, a Grand Cru, is arguably the finest wine of Alsace. In terms of grape varieties, the emphasis is on Riesling, but Maison Trimbach also grows all other classic Alsatian grape varieties, such as Gewuerztraminer.
Jean explains Trimbach’s wine making philosophy: “In the vineyard, the vines are cared for with a restricted approach to the use of chemicals, including insecticides and fertilizers. We ferment at 20 to 21 degrees Celsius in stainless steel tanks and large, wooden barrels. It does not really matter, if a wine is fermented in a tank or a barrel. It is more a question of fitting our needs with what is available. The barrels are smaller than the tanks and therefore the wines we produce in smaller quantities tend to end up in the wooden barrels. We never use new oak. We never do malolactic fermentation. As a rule, we bottle very early to preserve the freshness and the fruitiness. This is what Alsace is all about. The wine then matures in the bottle. The same principle as vintage port. We release wine often only 5 years later. Sometimes we wait up to 10 years.”
The Trimbachs let their wines age in the bottles in the cellar during several years before they release them on the market, especially the grand cru wines, such as the Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile. Wines are tasted frequently and released when deemed appropriate.
The Maison Trimbach Wine Portfolio
The Trimbach wines come in 4 quality groups: (i) the Classic range, (ii) the Reserve range, (iii) the Reserve Personelle range and (iv) the Prestige and Collection wines.
Trimbach Classic: This is the Trimbach entry level range. These wines represent the traditional, dry, crisp Alsace white wine style and come as Trimbach Pinot Blanc, Silvaner, Gewuerztraminer and Riesling.
Trimbach Reserve: The Reserve wines are made from sections with mostly old vines. These are more complex wines than the Classic wines and can age longer. The Reserve wines come as Muscat, Riesling, Gewuerztraminer, and Pinot Gris. Maison Trimbach is not particularly known for red wines, but they do produce a Pinot Noir Reserve as well as a Pinot Noir Reserve Personelle.
Trimbach Reserve Personelle: The wines of the Reserve Personelle range are from the best terroirs of the estate and not produced every year. These wines will keep for years. There are 3 Reserve Personelle wines: (1) the Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile, (2) the Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre and (3) the Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle. They are clearly recognizable because of their golden labels. The Cuvée Frédéric Emile is probably the best known Trimbach wine. It is one of the finest wines of Alsace, if not one of the world's greatest white wines.
Trimbach Prestige and Collection Wines: This group comprises (1) the Riesling "Clos Sainte Hune", (2) the Vendanges Tardives wines and (3) the Sélection de Grains Nobles wines, made from Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewuerztraminer. The Clos Sainte Hune is an exceptional terroir, exclusively planted with Riesling, located in the heart of the Grand Cru Rosacker, in Hunawihr. This Clos totals 1.67 hectares and has been in the propriety of the Trimbach family for more than 200 years.
The Wines we Tasted
2013 Muscat Reserve Euro 12,40
2012 Riesling Classic Euro 11,40
2011 Riesling Reserve Euro 15,05
2011 Riesling Reserve Vieilles Vignes Euro 17,25
2009 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile Euro 41,00
2009 Riesling Clos Sainte Hune Euro 133,00
2008 Pinot Gris Reserve Pesonnelle Euro 24,25
2007 Gewürztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre Euro 30,65
2007 Gewürtztraminer Vendage Tardive Euro 34,30
2007 Gewürtztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles Hors choix Euro 113,00
Alsace is one of the several world class French wine regions, which produces many excellent still and sparkling, red and white wines, but above all it is highly appreciated for its unoaked, dry and crisp white wines. They tend to be different from those in the other parts of France: Higher in acidity, sometimes really sour, but always a pleasant experience to have them in the glass. And they go very well with the Alsatian food, which is also unique in France. The famous choucroute you find only there in France. But of course, you find it also in neighboring Germany, for example in Frankfurt am Main. Compared with Germany, which also is famous for its world class dry wines, Alsace wines tend to be drier, more full-bodied and higher in alcohol. Finally, sweeter white wines and red wines play only a minor role in Alsace, but they have a very good sparkling wine, the Cremant d’Alsace.
Alsace sits in the northeast corner of France, sheltered by the Vosges mountains to the west and hard against the German border to the east. The vineyards reach from around Wissembourg in the north to Mulhouse, 70 miles south. Some 12 million cases are produced annually from 32,000 acres of vineyards.
Alsace is a fascinating amalgam of the German and French. The end of the 30 Years’ War in 1648 gave Alsace to France. In 1871, at the end of the Franco-Prussian War, Alsace was taken by Germany. After World War I, it was once more part of France — until 1940, when Germany reclaimed it. With the defeat of the Nazis in 1945, Alsace became French yet again — and so it has remained. Wine production in Alsace traces its beginnings to the early centuries of the Roman Empire, when the Romans conquered Alsace and introduced wine.
One of the most intriguing characteristics of Alsace wines is that they are bottled under their varietal names, unlike virtually all other French wines. Four grape varieties are considered to be the best:(i) Riesling – like in Germany, the most celebrated grape; (ii) Muscat – often used to produce sweet wines in France, the Alsace version is bone-dry; (iii) Pinot Gris and (iv) Gewurztraminer – Alsace's signature grape. Three other white grape varieties are also grown: (i) Sylvaner – A high-yielding grape, producing a refreshing wine, often used for blends, (ii) Pinot Blanc and (iii) Chardonnay – used only for sparkling wine. In addition, Alsace does have a little red wine made from the Burgundy grape, Pinot Noir. The Alsatian red wines tend to be quite lightweight, but can be delicious and interesting.
Dinner in Alsace
We ended the day witth a relxed dinner at a local brasserie.
schiller-wine: Related Postings (Domaine Trimbach)
A Feast with Jean Trimbach, Maison Trimbach in Alsace, and Chef Bart M. Vandaele at B Too in Washington DC, USA/France (2014)
Back in the Washington DC Area: Jean Trimbach Presented Maison Trimbach Wines at a Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen, USA (2013)
Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace (2011)
With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC (2011)
Jean Trimbach and the Wines of Maison Trimbach in Washington DC (2010)
schiller-wine: Related Postings
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013
In the Vineyard and the Wine Cellar (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Weingut Zähringer in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Winemaker Paulin Köpfer – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombasy (2014)
Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany
Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, with Weingut Franz Keller Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Visit: Weingut Dr. Heger in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tours by ombiasy (2014)
Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Karl-Heinz and Patrick Johner – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Thursday, February 26, 2015
Bordeaux Winemaker and Owner Marc Pasquet - Château Mondésir-Gazin - at Del Ray Café in Alexandria, Virginia, USA
“Marc Pasquet’s wines are not in the class of Château Petrus, but they do not cost as much as Château Petrus” said owner Laurent Janowsky of Del Ray Café, when he introduced his guest of honor, Marc Pasquet. Marc Pasquet and his wife Laurence make what is called “Petit Château Bordeaux” wines, i.e. good Bordeaux wines at affordable prices.
Frank J. Prial (New York Times): Everyone knows about the first growths, even people who never drink wine: Lafite, Latour, Mouton, Margaux, Haut-Brion, Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Yquem, maybe a couple of more. They're the superstars of the wine world. But they are not Bordeaux, any more than Romanee-Conti is Burgundy or Ridge Vineyards is California. In a good year, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild may produce 160,000 bottles of wine. In the same year, all of Bordeaux may produce 500 million bottles.
There are thousands of these Petit Château winemakers in Bordeaux, who make excellent wines for little money. And Marc Pasquet is one of them. His wines are widely available in the greater Washington DC area.
Marc Pasquet was in the greater Washington DC area for a week “to work the market”. Part of this effort was the winemaker dinner at Del Ray Café, which Annette Schiller and I attended.
We were about 20 guests and enjoyed very much the wines of Marc Pasquet and the menu prepared by Executive Chief of Del Ray Café Vincent Damman and his team. The dinner was excellent: Simple, but well thought through and very tasty; and very well presented.
Overall, it was a marvelous, joyful evening, and, at US$89 including tax and tip, reasonably priced.
Marc Pasquet and Château Mondésir-Gazin
Marc Pasquet and his wife Laurence hail from the Bretagne region in the northern part of France, known for cheese and seafood, but not for wine. Marc used to be a photographer. His passion for wine brought him to the Bordeaux region, where he learnt the art of winemaking in St. Estephe on the left bank, before establishing his own winery on the right bank..
In 1990, Marc and Laurence, encouraged by the optimism and faith of their families, took the plunge and bought land and a winery in the Bourg area.
Laurence and Marc Pasquet: Situated in Plassac, this estate is called after two hillside vineyard parcels – “Gazin”, facing directly south, and “Mondésir”, overlooking the Gironde estuary. The natural beauty of this landscape and the extremely high quality of these terroirs, incited us to acquire this property in 1990. Over the past 25 years, we have been unrelentingly committed to the elaboration of wines fully expressing the characteristics of this microclimate.
Laurence and Marc Pasquet explained further: Château Mondésir-Gazin is situated along the Gironde. The estuary regulates the climate, thereby limiting certain excessive weather conditions such as frost and hail.
The vines are 5 to 50 years old. Merlot is the chief variety, however an important proportion of the estate is also planted with Malbec, thereby reinforcing the special character of the location’s wines.
The latest plantation, representing 3 hectares, comprises 7,400 rootstock per hectare. This high density is an essential element in the production of top quality grapes.
The tilled parcels are treated without the use of chemical weed killers, pesticides and insecticides. We also limit the use of sulphites during the maturation of our offerings. These growing choices are environmentally friendly and allow us to provide customers with healthy wines.
The extremely flattened shape of the vats offers a large contact surface between the marc and the juice. As a result, the future wine is gently extracted. Big open vats make it possible to carry out cap pumping (a technique pushing the marc into the juice).
Maturing: There is a cellar for the first year of ageing and one for the second year. The estate favors a long maturation period (22 months), instead of using a lot of new oak (limited to a third of the barrels).
Del Ray Café
Del Ray Café is owned and run by the French/American couple Margaret and Laurent Janowsky. They met in the mid-1990s, supposedly when they were both walking their dogs. “She was an accountant. He was a restaurant manager. She was the daughter of Patsy Ticer, the then Mayor of Alexandria. He was from the Alsace region of Eastern France and had immigrated to America.”
Bitches Who Brunch: The Del Ray Cafe is a neighborhood gem. It’s in two-story white house just off Mount Vernon (Del Ray’s Main Street). It looks like a house that Grandma converted into a restaurant 50 years ago but kept in impeccable shape. It’s got a screened-in porch, window boxes full of pretty flowers, a lovely garden, even a Christmas tree in the front yard. Inside, it’s all wooden floors and wooden tables, kitchen tchotkes on the walls. You feel like you’re walking into someone’s house, only to be seated upstairs at a big table by the window and handed a menu that is decidedly French. Also resembling Grandma’s house: The food is all natural and organic. Oh, and the restaurant is completely peanut-free, for you allergic folks.
We started out with a reception in a first floor room.
Château Mondésir, Côtes de Bordeaux, 2011 US$16.50
100% Merlot. A deep ruby color, this full-bodied wine has loads of black fruit, spicy plum, vanilla, pine wood box and blackcurrant. On the palate, there is harmonious black fruit with notes of licorice, black currants, oak, and minerality. It has a supple finish with definite length in the mouth. Excellent with grilled steak.
The dinner was in the second floor. We were sitting at 3 tables. Annette had the privilege to sit next to Marc Pascquet.
with Gizzards, Walnuts and a Raspberry Vinaigrette
Château Haut Mondésir, Côtes de Bourg, 2010, US$30
90% Merlot, 10% Malbec. 18-20 months in oak barrels. Thickly textured, deeply colored, & scented with dark ripe fruit, spices, oak, licorice. Wrapped in an incredible balance and harmony, full-bodied, full-flavored.
Decanter Magazine 91 Dark fruit and chocolate, liquorish notes on the nose. Spicy barrel-aged bouquet supported by Mediterranean body and ripe tannic structure. A certain complexity evident. Plummy aftertaste retains freshness. Lashings of fruit. Characterful, with firm, fresh finish.
Veal Cheeks on a Wild Mushroom Cheesy Polenta
with a Veal Reduction Sauce
Château Mondésir-Gazin, 2010 US$30
65% Merlot, 35% Malbec. This wine shows a dark color, intense & profound nose of black fruits, spices, cedar, lead pencil, and spicy oak, in which it ages for 18 months, in 33% new barrels. More of the same flavors on the palate, in a full-bodied style, extremely round, juicy, & supple, with a tightly knit yet very ripe structure and concentration. Superb finish with hints of licorice.
Wine Spectator 89 This has a dusting of cocoa, but the fruit is fleshy and pure, with a caressing feel to the steeped plum and blackberry notes, which then give way to bay leaf and sage on the finish. Offers good chalky grip. Drink now through 2016. 2,000 cases made. –JM
Tournedos of Black Angus Beef à la Bordelaise
Château Gontey, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, 2010 US$37.50
80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. From a small 3 ha estate located near Pomerol. Aged for 18 months in 1/3 new oak. Very ripe, deeply colored; intense jammy berry fruit, spices, sweet oak tones, cedar, showing amazing structure, gorgeous concentration, and great balance.
Importer and Distributor: Elite Wines
In 2002, Laurent Michel Givry, a native of Toulouse, France and a veteran of the wine industry, started Elite Wines with small, eclectic, and yet good valued wines from France and Spain. Right from the beginning, he was very successful with his concept. Today, the portfolio includes a large number of French and Spanish wines as well as Australian, New Zealand, Argentine, Chilean, German and American wines.
OmbiasyPR and WineTours: Looking forward to Going Back to Bordeaux
Annette Schiller owns and runs ombiasyPR and WineTours, focusing on wine tours to Germany and France. The 2015 program includes a tour to Bordeaux.
September 15 - September 24, 2015: BORDEAUX (USD 4,995 per person / dbl occupancy) - Spend 10 days in Bordeaux! ”Bordeaux” embodies more than just wine. In France the interplay of wine and food is very important and plays an integral part of our journey through the Bordeaux wine region. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of the region as well as our personal ties to many of the players in the Bordeaux wine scene, we will visit many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to feel what Bordeaux is all about. In a nutshell: this is an on ground Bordeaux wine class.
schiller-wine: Related Posting
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France
Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics
The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France
Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France
An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France
An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany
Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France
Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France
Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA
(German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire
The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France