Monday, January 6, 2014

A Tour and Tasting at Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc, with Co-owner Frédéric Vicaire, France

Picture: Annette Schiller, Frédéric Vicaire and Christian G.E. Schiller

The tour and tasting at Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc, was part of the 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy, organized and led by Annette Schiller. Frédéric Vicaire, co-owner, showed us around and guided us through the tasting.

Château Coufran was the only Cru Bourgeois producer of the estates we saw and insofar provided a bit of a different perspective, although the perspective was not that different as Château Coufran is also a member of the UGCB, the elite association of Bordeaux wine producers. In addition to Château Coufran, we also tasted wines of Château Verdignan which is also co-owned by Frédéric Vicaire.

See also:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy   

Pictures: Frédéric Vicaire Greeting the Group

Château Coufran and the Miaihle Family

Château Coufran was bought in 1924 by Louis Miaihle, the great grandfather of Frédéric Vicaire. Frédéric Vicaire is the son of Marie-Cécile Miailhe-Vicaire, who, with her brother Eric Miailhe, took over Château Coufran in the 1980s. Since 1793, the Miaihle family - one of Bordeaux’s best known wine dynasties - has been involved in wine, back then as well-known brokers and more recently as wine producers.

Pictures: Frédéric Vicaire Providing a First Introduction

In 1925, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was bought by Edouard Miailhe and Louis Miailhe. The daughter of Edouard Miailhe, May Eliane de Lencquesaing later became the owner and manager of the property. In 2006, May Eliane de Lencquesaing sold a majority interest in the Château to the Rouzaud family, which also owns the Champagne house Louis Roederer. Château Pichon Comtesse was once part of the larger Pichon estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan, along with what today is Château Pichon Longueville Baron. In 1850, the estate was divided into the two current Pichon estates.

Pictures: With Frédéric Vicaire in the Vineyard

Since the sale of Pichon Comtesse by May Eliane de Lencquesaing (Edouard's daughter), the last grower in that family branch is her brother Alain’s son, Edouard Miailhe, at Château Siran.

As for the descendants of Louis, only his son, Jean, remained in wine-growing at Château Coufran and subsequently also at Château Verdignan. In the 1980s, his two children, Marie-Cécile Miailhe-Vicaire, the mother of our host Frédéric Vicaire, and Eric Miailhe, took up the reins.

Château Coufran

Château Coufran is the most northerly château in the Haut-Médoc. Its 76-hectare vineyard is located on an outcrop of gravel-rich soil close to the Gironde estuary. It has the highest proportion of Merlot (85%) to be found in any Médoc wine.

Pictures: With Frédéric Vicaire in the Vineyard

Frédéric Vicaire explained that grassing between the rows, leaf removal after flowering and crop thinning enable the grapes to ripen in the best possible conditions. Harvesting is performed "à la carte ", always starting with the Merlot grapes and then the later ripening Cabernets. Vinification follows the traditional Bordeaux method in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. Work in the vat-room (pumping over, stirring, racking) and the length of maceration are determined according to the characteristics of each vintage and above all to the style of wine sought.

Pictures: With Frédéric Vicaire in the Tank Cellar

Frédéric Vicaire: “Upon completion of the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, several tastings are held in December before the final assembly of the premium wine with our consultants, Jacques and Eric Boissenot. Only two thirds of the production will be kept for the premium wine so as to give the best possible expression to the unusual combination of grape varieties at Coufran and to produce a great wine which will be among the very best in our appellation.”

Pictures: With Frédéric Vicaire in the Tank Cellar

For the vinification of Chateau Coufran, the wine is fermented in temperature controlled, stainless steel vats. Malolactic fermentation takes place in tank. The wine is aged in an average of 25% new, French oak barrels for about 12 months.

Pictures: With Frédéric Vicaire in the Barrel Cellar

On average the estate produces close to 35,000 cases of Château Coufran per vintage. There is a second wine, La Rose Marechale.

Pictures: With Frédéric Vicaire in the Bottle Storage Cellar

Château Verdignan

Château Verdignan is a large Cru Bourgeois property located just north of the village of St. Seurin-de-Cadourne in the Haut-Médoc. In 1972 Verdignan was acquired by Jean Miaihle and Jacques Merlaut, and 4 years later, Jacques sold his share to Jean Miailhe, who became the sole proprietor. It is now run by his two children, Marie-Cécile Miailhe-Vicaire and Eric Miailhe.

The vines of Château Verdignan are planted in 60 hectares of excellent gravely soil situated in Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, a town near Saint-Estèphe in the district of Pauillac, in the Haut Medoc appellation, with 65% of Cabernet Sauvignons, 5% of Cabernet Franc and 30% of Merlot grapes. On average, the vines are 30 years old.

The Wines we Tasted

Pictures: Tasting with Frédéric Vicaire

Château Coufran 2003

Fine Wine Sask: The 2003 vintage comes out of an incredibly hot growing season delivering huge ripeness. Amazing drinking from 2013 – 2018.

Wine-searcher average price in US$: 26

Château Verdignan 2003

Roger Voss: In the northern reaches of the Haut-Médoc, Verdignan’s place in the world is as classic middle-ranking Bordeaux, with good value. And this 2003 fits the bill very well: ripe, juicy fruit, acidity and freshness, a solid tannic structure, developing over four years.

Wine-searcher average price in US$: 20


Château Coufran 2010

This Merlot-dominated wine has always been popular because of its easy drinkability/ accessibility. The 2010, despite coming from a more structured and tannic year, is dark ruby, round and well-endowed with soft mocha and herb-tinged berry fruit. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Wine Advocate.

Wine-searcher average price in US$: 23


Château Verdignan 2010

Roger Voss: A fully balanced wine, showing ripe black fruits over a strong sense of acidity, wood and juicy tannins. The wine has weight and richness while also keeping a firm, dry aging potential. (12/31/2010)

Wine-searcher average price in US$: 20

Bye-bye 

Thanks Frédéric for a wonderful tour and tasting.


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