Thursday, April 4, 2019

Tasting at Domaine Georges Vernay in Condrieu, Northern Rhône, with Owner Paul Ansellem-Vernay - Rhône Valley Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France

Picture: Tasting at Domaine Georges Vernay in Condrieu, Northern Rhône, with Owner Paul Ansellem-Vernay - Rhône Valley Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France

Domaine Georges Vernay has a high reputation for its Condrieus and played a key role in the survival of the Condrieu appellation. Since 1997 Christine Vernay - third generation of the founding family - and her husband Paul Ansellem manage the estate.

This was a tasting visit. Paul Ansellem-Vernay was our (most entertaining and charming) host.

Berry Bros. & Rudd/ London

Berry Bros. & Rudd: Under Georges Vernay’s management, the domaine has contributed so much to keep Condrieu on the map, especially during the 1960s’ when the appellation covered only 8 hectares, that talking of Condrieu and not mentioning Domaine Georges Vernay could be like going to Jerusalem and not visiting the Church of The Holy Sepulchre, in other words a terrible mistake. Today managed with brio by George’s daughter Christine and her husband Paul Ansellem, the domaine covers 8 Ha in Condrieu, making them one of the top three owners; 2.5 ha in Côte-Rôtie and 1.5 Ha in the Saint-Joseph appellations.

Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Georges Vernay in Condrieu, Northern Rhône, with Owner Paul Ansellem-Vernay - Rhône Valley Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France

In Condrieu, three cuvees are made from vineyards situated in Condrieu, the heart of the appellation, on south to southeast facing steep slopes, and all express the purest; most restrained expression of  the Viognier grape. From top to bottom:

Côteau de Vernon, created in 1940 by Christine’s grand-father Francis, is the reference amongst all Condrieu: 60 years old vines on decomposed granite locally called “gore”, is a wine of great personality and definition and has on numerous occasion shown a surprising ability to age;

Chaillées de l’Enfer, made from 50 years old vines. Chaillées is the local name for small terraces which are so steep that working here is particularly arduous. This is an early ripening site and yields a wine which has more opulence, richness than the former;

Terrasses de l’Empire, made from 40 years old vines is a great introduction to Condrieu, offering early approachability.”

Pictures: Georges Vernay, Christine Vernay and Paul Ansellem-Vernay

Domaine Georges Vernay

History: Finesse, Elegance and Harmony for three Generations

A pioneer in the renewal of the Condrieu appellation, Domaine Georges Vernay has always made wines of unique style, notable for their finesse, elegance and harmony. The property has become a major emblem of Rhône Valley winegrowing, from the time when Georges Vernay saved the Condrieu appellation to the international awards earned by Christine Vernay’s Côte-Rôtie. Three generations have left the mark of the philosophy on the estate, while perpetuating its traditions in the greatest respect for both vines and winegrowers.

Philosophy

Working the vines and making good wine is a long tradition in the Rhone Valley. This history, going back almost 2,000 years, still substantially influences the estate’s philosophy. Each wine bears a part of this heritage, especially the Condrieu “Terrasses de l’Empire” whose name echoes the time when the Rhône was a frontier between the Holy Roman Empire and the Kingdom of France. Christine Vernay and her husband Paul Amsellem, both lovers of jazz and classical music, bring people together around wine and music through a major biannual event held at their property, with international artists. Wine and music create unique moments. Both of them symbolise sharing; both of them are arts that draw people and civilizations together. Domaine Georges Vernay imparts these values into every wine it produces.

Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Georges Vernay in Condrieu, Northern Rhône, with Owner Paul Ansellem-Vernay

Respect for Nature

The family home is an imposing 19th century building at the foot of the Coteau de Vernon, built by architect Dardelle, himself a nature-lover and aficionado of painting; Vernon represents the very spirit of the winegrowing estate. In a natural setting that has preserved its wild state, it has lived some of the dramatic moments of winegrowing. Here as elsewhere, Nature has always ended by asserting its rights, yet the estate’s attachment to this Nature is a source of inspiration in creating great wines. At Domaine Georges Vernay, this respect for Nature is apparent in the deep understanding of the past and the full knowledge of the techniques our forebears used; the writings of many generations are essential in both the vineyard and the winery. Similarly, while striving to constantly improve quality, the grapes are treated using methods that respects both flora and fauna. The very hilly vineyard makes mechanisation impossible, so the vines are maintained by hand and without use of residual weed killers or insecticides.

Création et Innovation

At Domaine Georges Vernay, wine-making is a constant quest for perfection; every year the working methods are reviewed, and every year, for three generations, the estate strives to define each vintage as finely as possible.

This ceaseless effort starts with the vines: innovation is called for in the quest for ever-higher quality and purity of expression of the wines. A complete understanding of each parcel of land and each vine is important in this approach. Christine Vernay regularly walks the vineyard; empirical analysis inspires the winery work with every new vintage. After this study comes the tasting in the winery, to better feel and understand the wine that will be available in several months. Colour, aromas…every single aspect the wine slowly reveals has a meaning which must be interpreted. This cycle of research and innovation is neverending and has been perpetuated on the estate for three generations.

The Wine Postfolio

Les Terrasses de l’Empire Blanc

Wine-searcher average price in US$:59

The Condrieu “Les Terrasses de l’Empire” is an archetypal fruity wine, with an unmistakable fragrance of white peaches and a finesse and an elegance typical of this style. It is a harmonious Condrieu, one of freshness and beautifully balanced aromatic qualities.


Coteau du Vernon Blanc

The Coteau de Vernon is the very heart of the Condrieu appellation and that of our estate and the wine which carries its name offers the most complex and yet subtle expressions of viognier. It is a wine with a restrained exuberance, a quintessential Condrieu. In its early years it offers great concentration, a strength that dares not reveal itself. It is only after many years in the cellar that it fully and truly expresses itself.

Maison Rouge

100% Syrah. This Côte-Rôtie is a delicate, stylish and structured wine. A dark ruby purple, rather full-bodied, this wine has an astounding perfume of dark fruits, oriental spices and smoke. it expresses assertive tannins and is silky and attractive on the palate. It develops sumptuous liquorice and cigar-box tones. Outstanding aging potential.

Les Chaillées de l’Enfer Blanc

Wine-searcher average price in US$:87

The term “Chaillées” comes from regional dialect meaning ‘rocky’ and is in reference to the dry stone walls that form the terraces of this plot. In times gone by those who traversed the plot would often be heard to say “On est à l’Enfer” ’ We are in hell’, in reference to the intense heat one would be made to endure owing to the plots south facing exposition and thus this is how “Les Chaillées d’Enfer” ‘ The Terraces of Hell’ comes by its name. Opulent, full bodied and aromatic this is a remarkably well balanced wine. Drunk well even in its youth, several years of ageing however will allow it to fully reveal its charms.


La Dame Brune Rouge

The mature, 45 year old vines used to produce “La Dame Brune” are planted on granite hillsides in the Saint Joseph appellation. Their maturity gives the wine an exemplary level of minerality. In its youth it has smoothness and a remarkable structure. However it is a wine well suited to aging for several years. “La Dame Brune” ‘The Dark Lady’ takes her name in reference to our estates owner and wine maker, Christine Vernay who created her upon her arrival at the helm of the estate.

Terres d’Encre Rouge

“Terres d’Encre” is a wine worthy of its name, literally translated as ‘Earth of Ink’ it is produced from vines planted on rich, dark granite terraces in the parish of Chavanay. Dark red in colour and with a bouquet and flavour of dark berry fruits. The mature, 30 year old syrah vines give the wine the fruitiness, spicy structure and body of the grand wines of our estate.

Sainte Agathe Rouge

This wine coming from deep-rooted mature syrah vines found in the vicinity of the Condrieu appellation, offers a bouquet of red fruits and spices. With a full, fleshy flavour of dark fruits and hints of pepper it is a well balanced, finely crafted wine.

Blonde du Seigneur Rouge

Wine-searcher average price in US$:62

This Côte-Rôtie with its côte blonde aspect, including 10% Viognier, combines a powerful aspect with very floral notes. Each vintage brings out its intrinsic characteristics, resulting in a luscious and stylish wine. A beautiful dark colour, having a smoky, mineral nose with dark fruits, black olive and pepper, again set off by a floral factor. Its aromatic palate, with well-constructed but smooth tannins, continues into a beautiful long finish. An immediate pleasure that slowly, through years, extends to become the pure expression of Côte-Rôtie Syrah.


Le Pied de Samson Blanc

This wine takes its name “Le pied de Samson” ‘Samson’s foot’ from regional folklore, which tells of a giant, Samson who with one foot on either bank of the river Rhône bent down to drink from the river and quench his thirst. One of these giant footprints remains today and is situated just a stone’s throw from our estate. This cuvée presents the viognier in its original form, with expressions of indulgent fruits and freshness.

Fleurs de Mai Rouge

This cuvée comes from mature Syrah vines and offers a degustation very close to that of a Côte-Rôtie. It derives its name “Fleurs de Mai” ‘May Flowers’ from the May Flower peach trees that were long ago found planted on the plot.

De Mirbaudie Rouge

This red, 100% Syrah wine is made from vines planted at the perimeter of the appellation of Condrieu. It opens itself up with a bouquet of red fruits, blackberries and pepper. Upon tasting it is a wine whose ample flavour, velvety tannins and smoky finale highlight deeper flavours of red fruits and spices.

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