Tuesday, December 26, 2017

Lunch in Alsace: Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: Lunch in Alsace - At L’Epicurien in Colmar (with Chef/ Owner Nicolas Groell) and at Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim

During the Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen, we spent 2 nights in Alsace (in Kaysersberg) and visited 5 wine producers:

Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim
Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé
Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller
Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, with Jean Frédéric Hugel
Maison Jülg in Seebach, with Peter Jülg

We ate twice lunch, at the Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar. Both lunches were not elaborate meals, but very good, in two outstanding brasserie/ bistro-type eateries.

Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss. See: Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim

The Decanter included it in its list of Ten top Alsace restaurants, compiled by Sue Style December 29, 2015

From choucroute and tarte flambée to Gewurztraminer and Riesling, Alsace has some of the most distinctive dishes and wines in France. Sue Style picks out best restaurants to visit...

Down in the vineyards in the ravishing village of Bergheim (as good as Riquewihr but with fewer tourist buses) is Wistub du Sommelier (pictured top), a classic wine bar/bistro that’s a haunt of local vignerons and a favourite with visitors in search of l’Alsace authentique. Owned by Patrick and Antje Schneider, it’s the place to tuck into home-made foie gras or presskopf (brawn) followed by ox cheeks braised in Pinot Noir and an iced soufflé laced with Marc de Gewurztraminer. Antje’s list is an Alsace anthology, ranging from near-neighbours Deiss, Lorentz and Sylvie Spielmann to others she would like you to discover such as Beck- Hartweg, Gérard Neumeyer and Clément Klur.

Pictures: Walking from Domaine Marcel Daiss to Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim/ Alsace

Antonio Galloni Vinous

Vinous of Antonio Galloni carried a long article by Ian D'Agata on August 11, 2017.  Here are some parts of it. For the whole article go here.

Wistubs are equivalents of modern day bistros but that harken back to past times, offering home style food in rural, country settings. Wistub du Sommelier, one of the finest in Alsace and a favorite dining hangout of local vignerons and wine lovers, rarely disappoints.

Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim is one of those simple, unpretentious places that is always packed with locals and astute wine and food lovers visiting Alsace. There are no bells and whistles, just simple but well cooked homestyle food and a fairly priced, if not large, wine list that offers many inviting choices. The restaurant building also contributes to the atmosphere that takes you back in time. It dates back to 1748 and is replete with wooden beams, exposed bricks and a working fireplace, not to mention the typically sullen, and at times harried, French waitstaff busy running around. In short, the Wistub is a nice place to kick back with friends after a long day at work, as the staff doesn’t fuss around the table all night long.

Wistubs are highly typical dining destinations of Alsace, best thought of as analogous to bistros but with lots of history and very strong ties to the local region’s wines and foods. In fact, wistub is the name used in the Haut-Rhin, while winstub is the name used for the same sort of establishment in the Bas-Rhin, which has a different linguistic base. In any case, these eating establishments were created in France after 1871 when the country lost one in the seemingly endless string of wars with the Prussians (Germans). It became commonplace then to avoid traditional brasseries and the public and to gather instead in the basement of farmers who made wine and cooked up hearty, home-style food. Wistub du Sommelier has been owned by Patrick and Antje Schneider since 2000, but it was founded in 1985 by Jean-Marie Stockel a former winner of the title of France’s Best Sommelier, who had worked with some of the best chefs of France, including Jung, Haberlin and Chapel, among others. That in and of itself is a pretty good calling card right there for all us Vinous readers and wine enthusiasts.

Pictures: Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim

Guide Michelin 2017

Comptoir du 19e s., boiseries, poêle en faïence et convivialité... Pas de doute, derrière cette jolie façade alsacienne se cache bien une winstub ! On y passe un bon moment autour de vrais plats du terroir assortis des incontournables vins régionaux. Une adresse sympathique à tous points de vue.
Le mot de l'inspecteur

Bib Gourmand : Restaurant sélectionné par les inspecteurs du guide MICHELIN pour son très bon rapport qualité/prix. Repas hors boisson à moins de 32 € (36 € à Paris).

Belle carte des vins.

Pictures: Lunch in Alsace at Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim

Gault Millau 2017

12/20

Au calme d'un charmant village médiéval, la Wistub du Sommelier occupe le peloton de tête des wistubs de la route des vins. Vieux zinc, marqueteries de Spindler, parquet, tables larges et bien espacées, cour ombragée secrète défient le temps et attirent un public averti. Après la disparition en mars 2017 de Patrick Schneider, la charismatique Antje poursuit l'affaire avec détermination. C'est désormais Andrea Martin qui est derrière les fourneaux. Savoureux pressé de canard confit escorté d'un espuma de maïs, de germes de soja et de... pop-corn (vraiment utile?), terrine de foie gras d'oie correcte, filet de truite du Val d’Orbey aux girolles, sauce hollandaise qui mériterait de gagner en netteté, ris de veau rôti, sauce moutarde à l’ancienne, tagliatelles maison, millefeuille aux cerises, crème pâtissière citronnée, tiramisu maison revisité avec des crumbles au chocolat. Antje Schneider, la maîtresse de maison qui a du nez, devenue en 17 ans oenophile experte, fait partager sa passion du vin, le coeur du sujet de cette maison.

Pictures: In Colmar

Lunch at L’Epicurien in Colmar

Lonely Planet

Hidden in a Petite Venise backstreet, this is a wine bar–bistro in the classic mould, with cheek-by-jowl tables and a good buzz. Whatever is fresh at the market goes into the pot, often with a generous pinch of spice – from filet of beef in red-wine sauce with frites to wild gambas poached in ginger and lemon with wok vegetables and fettuccine.

Pictures: L’Epicurien in Colmar

Le fooding.com

At the heart of the Petite Venise neighborhood, along the Lauch River, L’Epicurien is a bistro with stonewalls and wooden rafters, where Nicolas Groell (who you may have seen working for Gordon Ramsey in London) makes our taste buds dance. Included in his €28 menu the other day: pan-fried scallops, sweet potato mousseline and a tonka bean emulsion; thick veal chops seasoned and caramelized with Angostura bitters, served with Parmesan risotto; and, for dessert, a large palette of flavors with an exotic fruit tartare, mango coulis and a passion fruit sorbet, a beautiful end to the meal – though we did hesitate between that and the bourbon vanilla creme brulee. As for the wines, there are a few rare finds (Crémant blanc from Albert Boxler for €4.90, Aligoté from Aubert and Pamela de Villaine for €5) and a hundred fine Alsatian bottles: Pinot blanc Clos des Capucins from the Domaine Weinbach (€27 a bottle), Pinot gris Kaefferkopf from Meyer-Fonné (€36), etc. Also worth noting: the rare Alsatian vintages (from 1959 onwards) and a beautiful eau de vie and digestif menu (from €3.50 to €15). Pitchers €8.40 to €22, craft beer €4.80. Menus €15.50 to €34 (lunch during the week), à la carte €33-51. // D.C

Pictures: Lunch in Alsace at L’Epicurien in Colmar

My-weekend-in-alsace.com

L'épicurien is a wine bistro located at the heart of the Little Venice in Colmar. On the menu, you will find food made with fresh products, rather French, but which also leaves space for other inspirations. The choice is very difficult and everything is tempting!

The wine list is very impressive and L'épicurien also offers a few artisanal Alsatian beers. Beer lovers will be happy!

Finally, the atmosphere "wood, slates and wine bottle" of the decoration makes the restaurant very homey. Service is also very pleasant.

Michelin

Groell Nicolas: "L'Epicurien" : Le rendez -vous des gourmands...Nous sommes heureux de vous faire découvrir une cuisine de produits frais et du marché.

Pour le déjeuner nous vous proposons 2 menus à prix doux : le menu du jour (12.80€) ou le menu du marché ( de 19 à 25€).

Le soir vous choisirez selon vos envies nos spécialités à la carte ou les suggestions du moment....
Pour accompagner votre repas nous vous proposons notre sélection de vins au verre, ainsi que notre carte des vins avec plus de 200 références dont de très vieux millésimes.

Picture: At L’Epicurien in Colmar with Chef/ Owner Nicolas Groell

Gault Millau

11/20

Une sympathique échoppe où les habitués se sentent chez eux. Dans cette atmosphère d'initiés en famille, Nicolas Groell développe des assiettes bien construites qui nous ont paru cette année en progrès dans la finition, sur des idées assez classiques et bien actualisées : salade de saint-jacques poêlées champignons et tomates confites sauce soja, cocotte de mijotée de veau sauce parfumée au citron confit et à l'angistura, pluma ibérique de pata negra bellota jus parfumé au sweet chili, et nombreuses suggestions qui prouvent l'engagement et l'enthousiasme que l'on ressent ici. De bons partis pris à la cave, assez classique également, sur la région et autour.

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany – The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Markgräflerland (Baden): Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Löffler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, 1 Star Michelin, Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch in Alsace: Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim and Bistro L’Epicurien in Colmar

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Valentin Rebholz and Stephanie Wagner

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg – Lothar Kesseler & Söhne in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Friedrich and Gunter Kesseler

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum

Thursday, December 21, 2017

Burgundy: What makes it so Special? - Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

Picture: Burgundy: What makes it so Special? - Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

Annette and Christian Schiller participated in the 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference. Annette Schiller led 3 well-attended tastings (Germany, Bourgogne and Alsace). Annette and Christian Schiller poured 5 German wines from VDP producers (the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) at the Showcase of Wines walk-around tasting dinner during the second evening of the conference.

This posting provides an account of the Bourgogne tasting.

This is the third in a series of postings related to the American Wine Society National Conference 2017 at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania:

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Showcase of Wines at the 2017 National Conference of the American Wine Society: Annette and Christian Schiller Present German/ VDP/ Loosen Bros. USA Wines

A Journey through the Vineyards of Alsace - A Tasting Seminar at the National Conference 2017 of the American Wine Society, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

Burgundy: What makes it so special? - Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

German Wines in the 21st Century - Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

The 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference

The 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference took place on Thursday, November 2 to Saturday, November 4, 2017, at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania.

Close to 800 AWS members from all over the USA came to this 3-day event, filled with tastings, seminars and presentations. The American Wine Society was founded in 1967 as a non-profit, educational, consumer-oriented organization for those interested in learning more about all aspects of wine.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller at the 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA

Pictures: Delivering the Wines for Annette and Christian's Tastings at the Storage Room

Burgundy: What makes it so Special? (Tasting Seminar E2)

Presenter: Annette Schiller, Owner, Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

Overall, there were 49 seminars, with 7 seminars at the same time. Annette's Bourgogne seminar was in the time slot before lunch on Saturday morning (E2). Annette poured 6 wines.

120 people attended Annette's seminar. 180 people had signed up but attendance had to be limited to 120 people because of the number of bottles available for pouring.

Burgundy is one of the world’s best-known wine regions, but perhaps one of the least understood. Burgundy is the most terroir-oriented region in France. Immense attention is paid to the area of origin with a specific vineyard or region bearing a given classification, regardless of the owner or producer. This presentation will explore the five core appellations, the importance of history for wine making in Burgundy, and the superior position of the Grand Cru white and red wines of Burgundy in the world of wine.

Annette poured 6 wines.

WHITE

2015 Chablis, Saint Claire, Jean-Marc Brocard
2015 Pouilly Vinzelles, Mâconnais, Joseph Drouhin

RED

2013 Coteaux Bourguignons, Cuvée Terroir, Maison Roche de Bellene
2015 Mercurey, La Framboisière, Côte Chalonnaise, Domaine Faiveley
2013 Volnay, Côte de Beaune, Nicolas Rossignol
2013 Volnay, 1er Cru, Côte de Beaune, Nicolas Rossignol

Pictures: Burgundy: What makes it so Special? - Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

The Bourgogne

The Bourgogne is one of the most famous wine regions in the world. Most of the wine produced here is Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Beaujolais is formally part of the Burgundy wine region, but wines from this subregion are usually referred to by their own names.

Some way south of Chablis is the Côte d'Or, where Burgundy's most famous wines originate. All Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy (except for Chablis Grand Cru) are here. The Côte d'Or is split into two parts: the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune in the south. The wine-growing area is just 40 kilometres long, and in most places less than 2 kilometres wide; the area is made up of tiny villages. Further south is the Côte Chalonnaise, where a mix of mostly red and white wines are produced. Below the Côte Chalonnaise is the Mâconnais region, known for producing easy-drinking and more affordable white wine. Further south again is the Beaujolais region. The Bourgogne (including Chablis but excluding Beaujolais) covers a total of 28,000 hectares. Côte d'Or covers 8,000 hectares.

Picture: Annette Schiller in Gevry-Chambertin, Bourgogne

Monks and monasteries of the Roman Catholic Church had an important influence on the history of Burgundy wine. As the power of the church decreased, many vineyards which had been in the church's hands, were sold to the bourgeoisie from the 17th century. The Napoleonic inheritance laws resulted in the continued subdivision of the most precious vineyard holdings, so that some growers hold only a row or two of vines. Clos Vougeot, for example, which was a single 125 acre run by the monks, today is parceled into plots owned by nearly 80 different owners. This led to the emergence of négociants who aggregate the produce of many growers to produce a single wine. Négociants play a vital role in the Bourgogne, ranging from simple labelling and distribution, to carrying out the entire wine-making process. Négociants may supply wines at all quality levels, including Grand Cru.

Bourgogne Classification

Burgundy is the most terroir-oriented region in France. Immense attention is paid to the area of origin, as opposed to Bordeaux, where classifications are producer-driven and awarded to individual chateaux. A specific vineyard or region will bear a given classification, regardless of the wine's producer. The main levels in the Burgundy classifications, in descending order of quality, are:

Grand Cru wines are produced from a small number of vineyards in the Côte d'Or and make up 2% of the production at 35 hectoliters per hectare. The origins of Burgundy's Grand crus can be found in the work of the Cistercians who, among their vast land holdings, were able to delineate and isolate plots of land that produced wine of distinct character. There are 33 Grand Cru vineyards in the Bourgogne.

Premier Cru wines are produced from specific vineyards that are considered to be of high, but slightly lower quality; they make up 12% of production at 45 hectoliters/hectare.

Village appellation wines are produced from vineyard sites within the boundaries of one of 42 villages. Village wines make up 36% of production at 50 hectoliters/hectare.

Regional appellation wines are wines which are allowed to be produced over the entire region, or over an area significantly larger than that of an individual village. These appellations can be divided into three groups:

AOC Bourgogne, the standard appellation for wines made anywhere throughout the region; these wines may be produced at 55 hectoliters/hectare.

Subregional appellations cover a part of Burgundy larger than a village. Examples are Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and Mâcon-Villages.

Wines of specific styles or other grape varieties include white Bourgogne Aligoté (which is primarily made with the Aligoté grape), red Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains (which can contain up to two thirds Gamay) and sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne.

The Wines Annette Poured

2015 Chablis, Saint Claire, Domaine Jean-­Marc Brocard in Préhy

Picture: 2015 Domaine Jean-­Marc Brocard, Chablis, Saint Claire

This domaine is a fruit of love. Jean­-Marc Brocard is from the Côte d’Or region of Burgundy and fell in love with the daughter of a winemaker in Chablis. As a wedding gift, the couple got 2.5 acres of a vineyard near the church of Saint Claire in Préhy, in the vicinity of the town of Chablis. In 1973 Jean­Marc established the domaine Jean­Marc Brocard and developed the estate into a domaine with over 200 acres under vine. He had no prior connection with wine and trained with his father in­law to learn everything about winemaking. In 1996, Julien Brocard joined his father with the goal to convert to organic and biodynamic farming. The process is still ongoing. ‘La Boissonneuse’ vineyard was the first one to start with the transition process in 1997 and ‘Vielles Vignes’ followed in 2001. Today, Domaine Jean­-Marc Brocard is run by the ‘father­son’ team and stands for the upper echelon of Chablis wines.

Pictures: Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

2015 Pouilly Vinzelles, Mâconnais, Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Picture: 2015 Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly Vinzelles, Mâconnais

Joseph Drouhin was only 22 when he left his native Chablis to move to Beaune to establish his wine merchant business “Maison Joseph Drouhin” in 1880. His son started to build up a ‘Domaine’ and purchased vineyards in outstanding appelations. Today the Domaine Joseph Drouhin is with 182 acres one of the largest wine producing estates in the region. It owns vineyards in all of Burgundy: Chablis (38 hectares ­ 95 acres), Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, (32 hectares ­ 80 acres), Côte Chalonnaise (3 hectares ­ 7.5 acres). It is comprised of a majority of Premier and Grand Crus, planted with the two Burgundian grape varietals, pinot noir and chardonnay. It is still also one of the major négociants in Burgundy producing wines made from purchased grapes grown in different parts of Burgundy. In 1988 they invested in Oregon and established the winery Joseph Drouhin in the Willamette Valley. Today both the estates in Burgundy as well as the one in Oregon are owned and operated by the great grandchildren of Joseph Drouhin. The most ancient vaulted cellars of Beaune belong to Drouhin.

Pictures: Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

2013 Coteaux Bourguignons, Cuvée Terroir, Maison Roche de Bellene

Picture: 2013 Maison Roche de Bellene, Coteaux Bourguignons, Cuvée Terroir

Maison Roche de Bellene's Cuvée Terroir is mostly from the Austral, southern area, where fruit-forward, mineral inflected Gamay is grown on old vines in granite soils. It is blended with finely structured Pinot Noir from the clay and limestone soils of the Cote d'Or. The result is what the French would call a "Vin de Plaisir" - an easy-drinking, affordable wine for everyday drinking.

The Pinot Noir portion of this wine is made with a brief cold maceration to start, followed by native-yeast fermentation in open vats. The Gamay is done in the traditional manner of the south, with a semi-carbonic maceration and whole-cluster fermentation. The wines are matured in large, old oak barrels for 4-5 months. After racking and a light filtration, the wines rest a few weeks before bottling.

Picture: 2013 Maison Roche de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons Cuvée Terroir

Maison Roche de Bellene practices traditional, respectful winemaking. Nicolas Potel and his winemaker, Sylvain Debord, work closely with growers to make decisions about vineyard practices, crop reduction harvest dates, and the fermentation regimen. Their winemaking employs “careful guidance of the human hand.”

2013 is the inaugural vintage of this wine. The exact cuvee will vary with each vintage, but in 2013 it is 80% Gamay and 20% Pinot Noir.

The wine is delicate and fruity on the palate, with delightful raspberry, blackberry and Morello cherry notes. The firm tannin of the Pinoir Noir gives the wine a fine structure that beautifully complements the rounder, softer fruitiness of the Gamay.

2015 Mercurey, La Framboisière, Côte Chalonnaise, Domaine Faiveley

Picture: 2015 Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey, La Framboisière, Côte Chalonnaise

Domaine Joseph Faiveley is one of the biggest domains in the Bourgogne and, many would argue, one of the best. This illustrious company has been based in Nuits St Georges since the days of Pierre Faiveley who founded the business in 1825. His son Joseph gave his name to the family business, to be followed by (1) the first François, (2) Georges who was instrumental in founding the Chevaliers du Tastevin, (3) Guy who developed the business in the Côte Chalonnaise, (4) François who recently retired and (5) now his son Erwan, born in 1979.

Guy Faiveley, a brilliant intellectual who had a collection of diplomas had the difficult job of succeeding his very colorful father. Yet, with his impetus, the domain doubled in size. François Faiveley took over the domain at the age of 25. He was able to give it a new boost – using a precursor of the sorting table and carrying out cold macerations for example. At the same age as his father, Erwan Faiveley took over the domain in 2007, becoming the seventh generation. On his arrival, he renewed and reinforced his team and invested in the winery and the vineyards. He brought new dynamics to the family business, while remaining faithful to his predecessors' values.

Initially, the company was a classic négociant, buying and selling wine. Bourgogne wines started to experience greater fame in Louis 14th's reign, when those high up in the King's court and foreign ambassadors in Paris started to take an interest. It was against this background that Pierre Faiveley founded the négociant business in 1825.

But from generation to generation, with a strong commitment to the quality of Burgundy’s patrimony, the Faiveley family has purchased vineyards and is today among the largest owners of classified vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise.

The objective of the family today, led by Erwan Faiveley, is to increase the firm’s holdings of great vineyards so that there can be complete control from vine to bottle across the entire range of wines.

On October 15, 2013, in a surprise announcement, Domaine Faiveley reported it had acquired 20 hectares of vines previously owned by Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot, which is based in Gevrey-Chambertin. All together, the firm now presently owns 123 hectares of vineyards among which 12 hectares are grands crus and 27, premiers crus.

Along with this focus, Erwan Faiveley and General Manager Bernard Hervet have renovated the cellars, which now boast state-of-the-art barrel presses, custom-designed wooden vats and among the finest, air-cured oak casks available in the world. Unlike many wine growers, Domaine Faiveley has united the management of its vineyards and its cellar under the direction of one technical director, Jerome Flous.

The grapes are entirely destemmed and fermented in new custom-designed wooden vats for the finer wines, conical stainless steel tanks for the lesser cuvées. Fermentation is slow and at low temperatures.

Wines mature afterwards in oak barrels in 19th century vault cellars that offer ideal conditions for long ageing. These barrels coming from great coopers have been rigorously selected for their fine grain and light toast. Both premier and grand cru wines may receive two-thirds new wood.

Many of Faiveley's top wines are hand bottled with no filtration. This in turn results in clean, opulent wines that often show Pinot Noir at its best.

Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

2013 Volnay, Côte de Beaune, Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
2013 Volnay, 1er Cru, Côte de Beaune, Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Picture: 2013 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol, Volnay, Côte de Beaune

Picture: 2013 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol, Volnay, 1er Cru, Côte de Beaune

Nicolas Rossignol is one of the best examples of a new generation of Burgundy wine makers whose great wines lie in the future rather than the past, entering the fray in 1994. Born in 1974, he represents the 5th generation of vine growers on the soils of Volnay. After completing his technical formation at the enology school in Beaune, Nicolas put his knowledge into practice, staging at Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay, Domaine Louis Latour in Ardeche and Domaine Vieux Telegraphe in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Anxious to learn other farming and winemaking techniques, he went to work in South Africa at Domaine Boschendal Stellenbosch in 1995, followed by Château Cardonne, owned by Château Lafite-Rothchild in Bordeaux.

Pictures: Getting Ready - Laurent Lala of Elite Wines, Nicolas Rossignol and Laurent Givry of Elite Wines. See: Winemaker Dinner with Nicolas Rossignol, Domaine Rossignol in the Bourgogne, at La Bergerie in Alexandria, Virginia

Upon his return home to his family’s Domaine (Rossignol-Jeanniard) Nicolas began vinifying in 1994. However, it was not long before he started his own Estate. In 1997, he acquired approximately 7.5 acres spread over the communes of Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Aloxe-Corton and Pernand- Vergelesses. In 1998, he increased his vineyard holdings by about 3.5 acres.

Today, Nicolas makes wine from his own 17 acre estate, as well as from his fathers's vineyards.

Pinot File: Nicolas Rossignol is one of the best examples of the new generation of winemakers in Burgundy. The wines go through a long fermentation (4 weeks, during which 1 to 2 weeks of cold pre-fermentation). He uses moderate amounts of new oak. The wines are bottled without fining or filtering.

Pictures: Nicolas Rossignol. See: Winemaker Dinner with Nicolas Rossignol, Domaine Rossignol in the Bourgogne, at La Bergerie in Alexandria, Virginia

Christopher Massie on Wine: The wine-making style Nicolas prefers can be best described as “sophisticated” – to borrow a term from Allen Meadows of Burghound, who describes these wines precisely as such. Towards producing wines of classic proportions, offering intense levels of the purist fruit as well as silky tannins and laser-focused transparency, he utilizes whole clusters during fermentation. Nicolas prefers the sweetness this method imparts to the finished wines (ala Jayer), but also stresses that this method must be avoided in vintages where the stems are not ripe.

Pictures: Selfies with the Star of the Evening, Nicolas Rossignol. See: See: Winemaker Dinner with Nicolas Rossignol, Bourgogne, at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Bergman’s Bourgogne: Nicolas Rossignol has a firm grip on Volnay and Pommard, the two villages just south of Beaune. There are few cellars in Burgundy where you can taste seven Volnay premier crus and eight Pommard premier crus. In addition to these there is also a handful of village wines from both villages. Instead of blending the small parcels and just label it Volnay premier cru Nicolas Rossignol prefers to bottle everything separately.

But Nicolas Rossignol's wine portfolio is not only about Volnay and Pommard. It is practically all red, but on top of all the Pommards and Volnays there are wines from Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton.

Pictures: Kevin Shin (Grand Jury European), Nicolas Rossignol and Christian Schiller. See: Winemaker Dinner with Nicolas Rossignol, Bourgogne, at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Sponsors: Thanks!

Annette Schiller: I could not have held the seminar without the generous support of my wine sponsors. I thank all of them very much for their donations which were instrumental to the great success of the presentation. The sponsors:

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard:
- 2015 Chablis, Saint Claire
Maison Joseph Drouhin:
- 2015 Pouilly Vinzelles, Mâconnais
Loosen Bros. USA Import:
- 2013 Coteaux Bourguignons, Cuvée Terroir, Maison Roche de Bellene
Domaine Faiveley:
- 2015 Mercurey, La Framboisière, Côte Chalonnaise
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol:
- 2013 Volnay, Côte de Beaune
- 2013 Volnay, 1er Cru, Chevret, Côte de Beaune

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