schiller-wine

Saturday, May 2, 2026

Best Austrian/ Bavarian Food in Northern Virginia: Euro Bistro in Herndon, with Chef/ Owner Raimund Stieger (from the Lake Constance Region) and Wife Noni (from Indonesia), April 2026

Birthday dinner at Euro Bistro in Herndon, owned and operated by Raimund Stieger and his wife Noni.

Raimund comes from the Lake Constance region of Vorarlberg – where Austria, Germany and Switzerland meet, close to the Austrian/ Bavarian border. Operating since 1999, the restaurant specializes in authentic Austrian and Bavarian cuisine, including Wiener Schnitzel and Apfelstrudel, with Raimund in the kitchen. Arguably, Euro Bistro is the best Austrian/ German restaurant in Northern Virginia.

A plus: All wines are US$30 per bottle, including excellent Austrian wines from the Klaus Wittauer selection. I had a bottle of 2019 Anton Bauer Zweigelt. Super.

Client-Savvy Euro Bistro April 20, 2001 By Eve Zibart (Washington Post)

IT MAY NOT be the most fashionable of mottoes in restaurant circles these days -- where theme, decor, celebrity associations or sheer conspicuous expense seem to be defining factors -- but it's a real basic one: Know thy audience.

Raimund Stieger made his name as chef at the Pisces Club, a Georgetowners' hangout of the '70s and '80s known for its social list-political op membership. That was a generation ago in real and restaurant terms, and Stieger has been moving out with the times and the suburban flow, stopping off for a while at Fairfax's Fish Stories and two years ago settling into Euro Bistro in a shopping strip at the heart of the Reston-Herndon explosion.

Fried calamari with smoked tomato sauce. Shrimp tempura. Pork pot stickers. Satay. (That's Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Thai, so far.) Pizza, topped California-, New Orleans- and Barcelona-style. Seafood stew with lemon grass (Southeast Asian). Caesar salad (which, if you remember, is actually Mexican, via Acapulco). Crab cakes (Chesapeake). Salmon roulade stuffed with crab in lemon-dill sauce with potato pancakes (Scandinavian/Russian/Central European?).

But for all that, Stieger's strong point, and the real draw, is the Black Forest fare: the Wiener schnitzel and Jaeger schnitzel, fried and sauteed veal cutlets; the pork chops sauteed with rosemary and sided with sweet-sour red cabbage; the frequent specials of sauerbraten and goulash and Bauern Schmaus. Spaetzle (light, unclumpy and just crumbly enough to roll around on the tongue). And really good sauerkraut, for which more people would give thanks if they ever tried it.

Like the area, Stieger's clientele is a mix of longtime residents who still believe in dressing for dinner, newer tract-mansion imports entertaining in Friday office casuals and young parents celebrating a night out without the kids. It's a packed house, "seating" about 50 without leaving much salvage for walking or waiting. (The tables are pressed together and rearranged in sort of modular fashion, occasionally two couples are seated at far ends of a six-top.) The squeeze means that if you're seated near the front or rear of the room, you may have five or six other people hovering overhead with glasses in hand; it also means that while the bathrooms are wheelchair accessible, actually wheeling between tables to get there might be a trick at peak times.

There isn't much in the way of decor outside of the paintings, which are for sale, part of the area arts community exhibit program. (The current collection is quite striking.) There's not much to absorb noise in this place, either, but at least you're not swimming in Muzak. The place settings are nice, vaguely rustic in design. And while none of the food is five-star, this is not a place people are looking to find elaborate fare, or prices -- they just want something dependable and filling and convenient and personal. Stieger knows his audience, and he's making them happy.

The appetizers are a mixed bag. The calamari is perfectly satisfactory; the "pot stickers" aren't, but might be if they were called empanadas and you weren't expecting a pork-and-veggie-stuffed thin wrapper instead of deep-fried thick dough and stolid stuffing. The satay, particularly a special lamb version, was first-rate, aromatically marinated and still pink inside. Red bell pepper soup was very nice, though the smattering of crabmeat didn't actually make much impression one way or another. And the bread is pretty good, which, sadly, is worth pointing out these days.

The Bauern Schmaus is a sort of mixed grill or charcuterie platter, combining a plump pink knockwurst, a pale and rather bouncy-fleshed bratwurst and smoked-pink and tender pork loin with the sauerkraut and possibly the finest over-roasted potatoes you'll ever eat out. (Those latkes won't hurt your happy button, either.) The Jaeger schnitzel is generous, several slices in a plain but glossy gravy, though newcomers should realize that Austrian-style veal is well-done, not scallopini-soft. The sauerbraten is a little disappointing, not quite as sweet-sour or as soft as this quintessential pot roast might be, but satisfying.

The pizzas are the crispy, thin-crust variety and get to be a little eclecto-cute sometimes (that must be the California Pizza Kitchen influence); but the Austrian pie is actually a little different, something between quiche Lorraine and potatoes Anna on pastry.

The mixed white and sun-dried tomato rigatoni with scallops and shrimp is fine, the seafood lightly done and the cream sauce as well. It brings up an important point: Stieger has developed a very light hand with the salt, which allows those who don't like heavy seasoning or who aren't supposed to consume much sodium to season to taste at the table. This is a good trend around town, but I do wish more restaurants would get rid of the prepackaged salt and bland pre-ground pepper in favor of small grinders for black pepper and kosher or sea salt. Everything in moderation -- but always the right stuff.

Euro Bistro is a dangerous place for dessert eaters, incidentally; the "sinful" chocolate is one of those flourless, chocolate decadence bits of ganache with white chocolate mousse; and the sachertorte, though a little short on the apricot preserves, is plenty rich.

Chef Raimund Steiger prepares crowd-pleasing meals at Euro Bistro.

Dinner

Oliver Hess

Chicken Marsala made me smile ,-)

Christian Schiller

Oliver Hess Raimund vom Bodensee ist mit Noni aus Indonesien verheiratet. Die kocht auch manchmal mit und ist fuer asiatische …

Oliver Hess

Christian Schiller sieht sehr gut aus was die machen und ich kenne es ja aus meine Zeiten in San Diego, so ein Stück Heimat hat was.

Wine

Food

Roland Young

Except calling a schweinesschnitzel a wienerschnitzel on the menu is not very authentic. Wienerschnitzel is ALWAYS veal and not pork….

Christian Schiller

Roland Young Indeed. They should call it Schnitzel Wiener Art. In Germany, while Wiener Schnitzel is protected by law to be veal, Wiener Art ("Vienna Kind") implies a similar method but with alternative meats.

Bye-bye

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Friday, May 1, 2026

New Leadership Trio at Weingut Lauer, Saar, Germany - Florian Lauer Steps Back but Remains on Board as Managing Partner and Advisor

Pictures: Florian Lauer, Weingut Peter Lauer, and Christian Schiller in Mainz. See: Florian Lauer - Gault Millau Collection of the Year 2016: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016 Awards: The Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Pictures: Florian Lauer, Weingut Peter Lauer, and Tobias Rower, vom Boden, at the Gränd Tasting in New York City, USA

New Leadership Trio at Weingut Lauer, Saar, Germany - Florian Lauer Steps Back but Remains on Board as Managing Partner and Advisor

As reported in the German press, Florian Lauer has withdrawn from the active day-to-day operations of Weingut Peter Lauer in the Saar region. While the winery is continuing operations under a new legal structure, Lauer has stepped back from his lead role to pursue a different career path.

Florian Lauer has taken a position as a climate manager for the municipal association of Saarburg-Kell. As an agricultural scientist, he is focusing on addressing the local impacts of climate change.

The move was prompted by health concerns. Specifically, stomach issues exacerbated by wine acidity have made it difficult for him to consume wine, though he still tastes it sparingly. He has clarified that he does not have a malignant disease.

He remains one of three managing directors and continues to serve as an advisor behind the scenes.

Future of the Winery

The estate transitioned to a limited partnership (KG) on January 1, 2026.

It is now led by a management trio who make decisions equally:

Max Kirsch (40): Responsible for finance, personnel, and external operations.

Max Zellerhoff (27): Serves as cellar master and manages winery communications.

Florian Lauer: Managing partner and advisor.

Legacy and Impact Florian Lauer is widely credited with elevating Weingut Peter Lauer to the top tier of German Riesling producers. Under his leadership: The winery earned a prestigious 100-point rating for its Schonfels Grosses Gewächs. Lauer became a vocal advocate for environmental issues, notably fighting against the mandatory use of plastic and aluminum capsules on wine bottles to reduce waste. He actively lobbied against U.S. tariffs that threatened the survival of small Saar estates

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Peter Lauer in Ayl, Upper Mosel, Saar Valley, with Katharina Lauer and Peter Lauer - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling

Pictures: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Peter Lauer in Ayl, Upper Mosel, Saar Valley, with Katharina Lauer and Peter Lauer - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling

The Saar, a tributary to the Mosel river gives name to one of the 2 unique sup-regions of the Mosel wine region where crisp, more masculine Rieslings are made. Frank Schoonmaker wrote 1956 in ‘The Wines of Germany’: “In these great and exceedingly rare wines of the Saar, there is a combination of qualities which I can perhaps best describe as indescribable – austerity coupled with delicacy and extreme finesse, an incomparable bouquet, a clean, very attractive hardness tempered by a wealth of fruit and flavor which is overwhelming.”

Florian Lauer, currently the head at the 100% Riesling Weingut Peter Lauer (20 acres), which was founded in 1830, produces exactly those kind of wines. His specialties are dry and just slightly off-dry Rieslings. The wines are spontaneously fermented with their natural yeasts.

When we visited Weingut Peter Lauer, Florian Lauer was out of the country. His sister Katharina Lauer was our host. Halfway through the tasting, senior boss Pater Lauer took over.

Pictures: Weingut Peter Lauer

Weingut Peter Lauer/ Vom Boden

Weingut Peter Lauer is imported into the USA by Vom Boden in New York City. Actually, we have met Florian Lauer many times at German wine events in New York City.

Vom Boden: It’s official: “Lauer has gone cult.”

For purists, there is nothing like the Saar. It is arguably one of the greatest, most unique wine-growing regions on earth. The core of greatness in the Saar is intensity without weight, grandiosity without size. Frank Schoonmaker put it best in his 1956 tome The Wines of Germany: “In these great and exceedingly rare wines of the Saar, there is a combination of qualities which I can perhaps best describe as indescribable – austerity coupled with delicacy and extreme finesse, an incomparable bouquet, a clean, very attractive hardness tempered by a wealth of fruit and flavor which is overwhelming.”

Yes, this is the Saar and Florian Lauer is currently one of the greatest winemakers in this sacred place.

Florian’s general style is exactly the opposite of his famous Saar neighbors Egon Müller and Hanno Zilliken. At Lauer, the focus is on dry-tasting Rieslings as opposed to the residual sugar wines of the latter two. Employing natural-yeast fermentations, Lauer’s wines find their own balance. They tend to be more textural, deeper and more masculine. They have a preternatural sense of balance, an energy that is singular. Yet the hallmarks of the Saar are there: purity, precision, rigor, mineral.

Florian’s playground is the breathtaking hillside of the Kupp. Though the many vineyards of this mountain were unified (obliterated?) under the single name “Kupp” with the 1971 German wine law, it has been Florian’s life’s work to keep the old vineyard names alive, to keep these voices alive. He has been fighting this fight since his first vintage in 2005 and only with an update to the law in 2014 can he now legally use the older vineyard names such as Unterstenberg, Stirn, Kern and Neuenberg.

Florian fought the law, and he won.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Peter Lauer

In addition to the expanses of the Kupp, Lauer farms two other important sites, the Saarfeilser directly across the river and the precipitous, cliff-vineyard Schonfels, a bit upstream from the other two sites. Florian also recently cleared and replanted the famous Lambertskirch, just a stone’s throw from Schonfels. Everything is pretty well detailed on the map on the right.

The most important category of Lauer wines we’ll call the “terroir” wines. These are the Rieslings that have made Lauer so famous. These wines eschew the whole Prädikat system (Kabinett, Spätlese, etc) completely. They ferment spontaneously with natural yeasts and thus they find their own balance. In most cases they have a bit more residual sugar than a purely dry wine, yet not nearly enough sugar to be considered sweet. Let’s call them dry-tasting to off dry. First, there is the appellation-level Barrel X. This is Lauer’s Platonic ideal of what a Saar Riesling should be. If we were in Burgundy this would be the equivalent of a Bourgogne Blanc. As an appellation-level wine, it is sourced from multiple vineyards in three different villages of the Saar. This is always a thrilling off-dry and a silly value.

Next up the hierarchy is the “Senior.” While Lauer considers this a village-level wine (and prices it thusly), it is in fact a single-vineyard wine sourced completely from the Ayler Kupp. With an average vine age of around 70 years and a plethora of ungrafted vines, this is a wine that punches well above its price. Although there can be vintage variation, this wine is normally dry tasting.

The remaining wines in this category, the bottles with the golden circles on the labels, are the “Grand Cru” terroir wines. What is important here is the vineyard site: Unterstenberg, Stirn, Kern and Neuenberg. Each of these vineyards has its unique voice. Taste Unterstenberg next to Stirn. The difference in distance is only 300 feet, yet the wines are night and day

Lauer also produces three “Grand Cru” dry Rieslings, or GGs: Kupp, Feils (called Saarfeilser for many years, and denoted on the map as such) and Schonfels. For the Kupp, Lauer picks the best grapes from the heart of the Kupp, denoted by the area in red on the map above. The Saarfeilser and the Schonfels are both used nearly in their entirety for the GGs. Because of their immense structure, these wines are released later than all the others, normally in the winter/spring of the year following the harvest.

When the vintage allows it, Florian will craft Prädikat wines, the Kabinetts, Spät and Auslesen that we all know and once loved. As the focus of Lauer’s production is clearly on the dry and dry-tasting wines, the Prädikat wines are only made when the vintage is perfect for such wines. It is possible to have a vintage with only a Kabinett, or only a Spätlese. In nearly all cases, these wines are sourced from the Kupp and represent in fact a pre-selection of grapes. In other words, Lauer selects out the grapes that are ripening too quickly, or showing botrytis for these wines. The remaining grapes are left on the vine for the drier wines.

Part of the estate’s tradition is to use “fass,” or barrel, numbers as part of the identifier of each wine in addition to the vineyard name. Thus you have a wine such as “Unterstenberg – Fass 12.” The alignment of the vineyard site and the barrel may assist the natural-yeast fermentation, creating similar populations of yeasts in both environments. That said, the estate has grown over the last few decades and not all wines are always matched to the same barrel. The name “Barrel X” playfully suggests as much alluding to the fact it does not have its own barrel.

Pictures: Cellar Tour with Katharina Lauer, Weingut Peter Lauer

Interview with Florian Lauer by the VDP: "We're betting 100% on Riesling in the Fifth Generation"

VDP: What is so special about your winery?

Florian Lauer: In the fifth generation, we are 100 percent committed to Riesling - to the great variety of this unique and our only grape variety. It grows in centuries-old, traditional slate steep slopes, including the monopole "Lambertskirch". The cultivation in the vineyard is close to nature, as is the maturing in the cellar. The wines mature in wooden barrels, which are individually bottled after 100 percent spontaneous fermentation. In any case, our VDP.GROSSE LAGE® wines in the dry and finely bitter taste range as well as the production of exceptional sparkling wines are special: With us you will find reserve sparkling wines, some with 20 to 30 years of yeast storage on the bottle. We also recommend our own hotel and the restaurant of star chef Jörg Diekert.

VDP: What is your winery philosophy?

Florian Lauer: Bringing the landscape into the bottle. Focus on one grape variety and still achieve a high diversity of tastes. Achieve maximum elegance despite the concentration and depth of the wines.

VDP: What wine style do you strive for?

Florian Lauer: Our style of ageing ranges from extra dry to noble sweet. We have a clear style definition of our Rieslings. Dry means: harmonious and creamy. Feinherb means piquant and fruity. Fruity or noble sweet: elegance and finesse with a clear profile. Cabinet: healthy grapes without overripening. Spätlese: Overripe without botrytis. Auslese: Overripe with Botrytis. Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese: 100 percent Botrytis.

VDP:Which of your wines would you recommend to someone who does not yet know your winery - as an introduction, so to speak?

Florian Lauer: The dry to finely bitter Rieslings from the Unterstenberg plot in the VDP.GROSSEN LAGE® KUPP in Ayl. They are not legally dry, but have no perceptible sweetness due to the clear saltiness. The "sweet spot" of the Saarriesling!

VDP: Which wine are you particularly proud of?

Florian Lauer: On our Riesling from the VDP.GROSSE LAGE® KUPP plot Kern. The wine was voted Germany's best fine-tart Riesling three times by Gault Millau and was entered into the Hall of Fame of the Vinum Wine Guide in 2018. Also on our dry Riesling SCHONFELS from 100 year old vines with a typical peppery, salty note.

VDP: Why did you become a vintner?

Florian Lauer: During my agricultural studies, I also studied animal husbandry and arable farming and clearly stated that viticulture is by far the most beautiful form of agriculture. When I then studied viticulture in Montpellier, I was particularly intensively occupied with the topics of terroir, climate and processing traditions.

VDP:Do you have any role models?

Florian Lauer: My grandfather and my father.

VDP: What are your next goals?

Florian Lauer: Further sharpening and specification of our terroir: i.e. we will scientifically substantiate our wine style depending on the physical characteristics of the location.

VDP: How do you combine tradition and innovation?

Florian Lauer: One thing is clear: the most scientific study of wine counts for little without the sly heuristics of the forefathers. The champagne pressing of the wooden barrel maturation and the fact that we only grow Riesling in slate remain traditional with us.

Pictures: Tasting with Katharina and Peter Lauer

The Wines

We tasted 11 wines, including two sparkling wines.

2018 Weingut Peter Lauer, Ayl, Riesling, Fass 2, extra dry
2018 Weingut Peter Lauer, Ayl, Riesling, Fass 25, dry
2018 Weingut Peter Lauer, Ayl, Riesling, Fass 6 SENIOR, dry to off-dry
2018 Weingut Peter Lauer, Neuenberg, Riesling, Fass 17, dry to off-dry

2018 Weingut Peter Lauer, Ayl, Riesling, Fass 4, off-dry
2018 Weingut Peter Lauer, Ayl, Riesling, Fass 3, off-dry

2018 Weingut Peter Lauer, Kupp, Riesling, Fass 8, Kabinett
2018 Weingut Peter Lauer, Kupp, Riesling, Fass 7, Spätlese
2017 Weingut Peter Lauer, Kupp, Riesling, Fass 10, Auslese