Welcoming Winemaker Ruben Saenz Lopez and his Bodegas San Prudencio Wines from Rioja in Spain to Washington DC

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Ruben Saenz-Lopez in Washington DC

Bodegas San Prudencio from Rioja in Spain is a new kid on the (wine) block. Their US importer is Quality Wines of Spain. From January 31 to February 6, 2011, Quality Wines of Spain took their winemakers on a tour in the US, with stops at New York, St. Louis, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Washington DC. I had the pleasure of meeting Ruben Saenz-Lopez, co-owner of and winemaker at Bodegas San Prudencio from Rioja at the stop in Washington DC. “This is my first time ever in Washington DC and my second time in the US” said Ruben.

Wine Producer Spain

Located on the Iberian Peninsula, Spain has over 1 million hectares of vineyard land planted. It is with Italy and France in the leading trio of wine producing nations. In terms of consumption, Spain is 9th worldwide with Spaniards drinking, on average, 10.06 gallons (38 liters) a year.

History of Winemaking in Spain

Wine growing and making in Spain began many centuries ago, even long before the Romans came. During the Roman Empire, Spanish wine was widely exported and traded. Following the decline of the Roman Empire, under the Moors, Islamic dietary laws that forbid the use of alcohol, prevailed. In the wake of the Spanish Reconquista in 1492, Bilbao emerged as a large trading port. Spanish wines became popular in England.

Christopher Columbus discovered the New World under the sponsorship of the Spanish crown. This opened up a new export market as well as new opportunity for wine production. Spanish missionaries and conquistadors brought European grape vines with them. During this period, Spanish wine exports to England began to wane as Spanish-English relations steadily deteriorated following the divorce of Henry VIII of England from his Spanish wife Catherine of Aragon. The 17th and 18th centuries saw periods of popularity for various Spanish wines-namely Sherry, Malaga and Rioja wine.

Picture: The Wine Regions of Spain

A major turning point occurred in the mid 19th century when the phylloxera epidemic ravaged European vineyards-most notably those of France. With the sudden shortage of French wine, many countries turned to Spain. Phylloxera eventually reached Spain, but by the time the Spanish wine industry felt the full force of phylloxera, the remedy of grafting American rootstock to the European vines had already been discovered and was utilized. The end of the 19th century also saw the emergence of Spain's sparkling wine industry with the development of Cava in Catalonia. The late 1970s and 1980s saw periods of modernization and renewed emphasis on quality wine production. Spain's reputation entering the 21st century was that of a serious wine producing country that could compete with other producers in the world wine market.

Wine Classification

The five-tier classification, starting from the bottom, comprises:

• Vino de Mesa (VdM) - These are simple, table wines.

• Vinos de la Tierra (VdlT) - This level is similar to France's vin de pays system.

• Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD) - This level is similar to France's Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure (VDQS) system and is considered a stepping stone towards DO status.

• Denominación de Origen (DO) - This level is for the mainstream quality wine regions. Nearly two thirds of the total vineyard area in Spain is within the boundaries a DO region.

• Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) - This designation, which is similar to Italy's Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) designation, is for regions with a track record of consistent quality and is meant to be a step above DO level. Rioja was the first region afforded this designation in 1991 and was followed by Priorat in 2003, and Ribera del Duero in 2008.

The three most common aging designations on Spanish wine labels are Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva.

• Crianza red wines are aged for 2 years with at least 6 months in oak. Crianza whites and rosés must be aged for at least 1 year with at least 6 months in oak.

• Reserva red wines are aged for at least 3 years with at least 1 year in oak. Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 2 years with at least 6 months in oak.

• Gran Reserva wines typically appear in above average vintages with the red wines requiring at least 5 years aging, 18 months of which in oak. Gran Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 years with at least 6 months in oak.

Wine Regions

Major Spanish wine regions include the Rioja and Ribera del Duero which is known for their Tempranillo production; Jerez, the home of the fortified wine Sherry; Rías Baixas in the northwest region of Galicia that is known for its white wines made from Albariño and Catalonia which includes the Cava and still wine producing regions of the Penedès as well the Priorat region.

Grape Varieties

The country has an abundance of native grape varieties, with over 600 varieties planted throughout Spain though 80 percent of the country's wine production is from only 20 grapes—including Tempranillo, Albariño, Garnacha, Palomino, Airen, Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel•lo, Cariñena and Monastrell.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Ruben Saenz-Lopez

Tempranillo is the second most widely planted grape in Spain and is an important grape in the Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Penedès regions. The most widely planted grape is the white wine grape Airén, served as the base for Spanish brandy.

Sherry

Sherry is a fortified wine produced in southern Spain. It can either be sweet or dry, unlike Port. Port wine is made sweet by adding alcohol to the fermenting must so the fermentation stops and the sugar of the grapes remains in the wine. What you get is a wine with lots of alcohol and remaining sweetness in the wine. Sherry, on the other hand, is made by letting the fermentation go its full way so that a dry wine emerges. Then, alcohol is added to boost the alcohol level. If the winemaker stops there, you get a dry Sherry. If he also adds sterilized juice, you get a sweet Sherry. Thus, Sherry can be sweet or dry.

Cava

Cava is a Spanish sparkling wine made in the traditional method of the Champagne. Mostly, white grape varieties like Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel•lo are used for Cava, though some producers are experimenting with the use of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Bodegas San Prudencio

Bodegas San Prudencio is a winery in Moreda (Rioja Alavesa), owned by Ruben Saenz Lopez and his brother since 2005. They have 85 hectares under vine and produce 500.000 bottles annually. Ruben Saenz Lopez, who I met in Washington DC, is the winemaker. He is in his early thirties and has a Ph.D. in chemistry and enology from the University of La Rioja.

The name of the winery is related to the monastery of San Prudencio, a historic building whose ruins can be seen in Clavijo, where Ruben Sáenz Lopez family originates from. In a small family winery, Rubén Sáenz Lopez got his first exposure to the vine growing and wine making. It was in Clavijo that the Saenz Lopez brothers used to get as little boys into oak vats to clean them. Ruben made his first wine at the family winery in Clavijo before acquiring – with his brother – the Bodegas San Prudencio.

Some of the vineyards are in Montelaturce, the landmark mountain in Rioja. These are some of the highest altitude vineyards in Rioja -- you can virtually see almost all Rioja from these vineyards. All of Rioja’s traditional varieties are grown: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. The harvest is done by hand. French and American oak is used for aging.

The Wines we Tasted

Ruben brought 3 wines, all Cueto wines. Cueto is sourced from vineyards beneath Mount Cueto, around the village of Clavijo, place of birth of the brothers Saenz Lopez – hence the name. Cueto was the first wine produced by Bodegas San Prudencio.

Picture: The Wines we Tasted

Cueto 2009, San Prudencio, Rioja

US$ 9.99

STYLE: Medium Bodied Rioja Red
COLOR: Deep dark ruby.
BOUQUET: Fine, fresh berry fruit and well integrated oak.
FLAVOR: Smooth, balanced, silky dark cherries.
VARIETIES: Tempranillo 90 % Mazuelo 5% Garnacha 5%
Maceration: 10 days + 15 days post-maceration with lees. Light filtration

Cueto Tendencia, 2007, San Prudencio, Rioja

US$ 13.99

STYLE: Medium Bodied Rioja Red
COLOR: Deep dark ruby.
BOUQUET: Fine, fresh berry fruit and well integrated oak.
FLAVOR: Smooth, balanced, silky dark cherries.
VARIETALS: Tempranillo 60 % Mazuelo 15 % Garnacha 20 % Graciano 5 % (45 year old vines)
Maceration: 10 days + 15 days post-maceration with lees. Light filtration.
Aging: 5 months in French (80%) and American (20%) Oak casks. No filtration.

Cueto Seleccion, 2006, San Prudencio, Rioja

US$ 15.99

STYLE: Medium Bodied Rioja Red
COLOR: Deep dark ruby.
BOUQUET: Fine, fresh berry fruit and well integrated oak.
FLAVOR: Smooth, balanced, silky dark cherries.
VARIETALS: Tempranillo 60 % Mazuelo 15 % Garnacha 20 % Graciano 5 % (45 year old vines)
Maceration: 10 days + 15 days post-maceration with lees. Light filtration.
Aging: 8 months in French (80%) and American (20%) Oak casks. No filtration.


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