Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2011 Vintage, Germany, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Stefan Rumpf, Weingut Krueger-Rumpf, at a Winemaker Dinner at Weinstube Krueger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim

Terry Theise just returned from Germany and has published his “back-to-office” report on the web site of Skurknik imports, including a listing of his top wines in various categories. Of course, it is not a comprehensive review of German wine, but focuses on Terry Theise’s portfolio of winemakers, which is large and exceptional.

Terry Theise is one of the leading experts of German Wine in the US. Among the vast number of his followers, he has gained something like a cult status. He publishes a thick catalogue once a year with extensive comments. In addition to the compendium of exciting wine reviews, the Terry Theise’s annual catalogue is a very good introduction to German wine, both to the basics and to the current trends and issues.

If you want to learn more about Terry, the Washington Post carried an excellent article about him some time ago. See here.

2008 James Beard Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
2005 Food & Wine Magazine Importer of the Year

His wines are imported by Michael Skurnik, an importer and distributor of fine wines based in Syosset, New York. Terry also imports Austrian wine and Champagnes, including excellent grower Champagnes.

For previous years, see:

Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

2011: Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2010 Vintage

Terry Theise's Top Wines

A few comments. First, there are no red wines, although they now account for 1/3 of the German wine output. Terry is clearly focusing on Germany’s white wines. Second, nor have I seen a category for sparkling wines; for sparklers, you have to go to his excellent portfolio of Champagnes, including many grower Champagnes. Third, his list does not include any noble-sweet wines (Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein). Fourth, as mentioned above, this is not a list based on a comprehensive review of German wine, but is limited to Terry Theise’s portfolio of winemakers, which is large and exceptional.

Here is Terry Theise in o-tone. I have added a couple of pictures of the winemakers I have met personally, including references to relevant postings on schiller-wine.

THE WINERY OF THE VINTAGE IS:

(bearing in mind that Mr. Dönnhoff’s number has been retired, as it were)….oh, again it’s a bitch to choose just one. It can seem to consign the others to insignificance, but promise me you’re smarter than that. OK? So, the winery of the vintage is clearly Willi Schaefer, for an astonishingly brilliant collection surpassing anything I’ve ever tasted from this already stellar domain. Each wine, from the littlest to the grandest, showed an achingly clear line of pure terroir, both specific to Graach and somehow also talking to some ur-Mosel eternity, and no matter how rich the wines became, the clear line was always there.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Helmut Doennhoff in Mainz, Germany

OTHER MARKED SUCCESSES:

Strub has their second consecutive excellent collection. Kruger-Rumpf took a big step up from their normal level, with a strong across-the-board showing from dry and not-dry wines alike. Leitz remains steadily superb, establishing a three-peat of great years that started in 2009. Schlossgut Diel is outstanding even by their standards, a euphoric collection marked by silky charm and irresistible fragrance.

Weingart, whose name you’ll be reading a lot in this section, seems to have come from another world in 2011.  Our hero in Dhron Adam continues to delight and dazzle. And by no means an afterthought, my most deeply beloved friends at Selbach-Ostergive us (yet) another steadily delicious and keenly well-crafted group, culminating in the great trio of en-bloc picked micro-parcels that now must stand among the Mosel’s most important wines.

THE WINE OF THE VINTAGE IS:

Adam: Hofberg Riesling Spätlese

RUNNERS-UP INCLUDE:

Leitz: Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spätlese (yet again)

Weingart: Spay Riesling Spätlese Feinherb

Schaefer: Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5

Selbach-Oster: Anrecht

THE AUSLESE OF THE VINTAGE IS:

Schaefer: Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #14

THE SCHEUREBE OF THE VINTAGE IS:

Kruger-Rumpf: Scheurebe Spätlese, challenging the hegemony of Catoir and Diel, this is the best Scheu I’ve ever tasted at Rumpf.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Krueger-Rumpf, in Muenster-Sarmsheim: Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

THE KABINETTS OF THE VINTAGE ARE:

Schlossgut Diel: Riesling Kab (non-vineyard) for its remarkable expressiveness and value vis-à-vis its fellow Kabs from the Grand Crus.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Armin and Caroline Diel at Schlossgut Diel: Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

Adam: Hofberg Kabinett – big surprise, right?

Von Othegraven: Kanzemer Altenberg Kabinett (which comes ethereally near to the supernal 2008).

THE BIGGEST SURPRISES OF THE VINTAGE ARE:

Kruger-Rumpf: in general, for their ascent to a new level of polish.

Kerpen: Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spät, maybe the most impressive and delicious Graach wine I’ve yet tasted at Kerpen.
Von Winning: Sauvignon Blanc. Come again? Oh yes, a weighty serious wine challenging the top bottlings from Südsteiermark (themselves among the world’s greatest SB).

THE GREATEST DRY WINES ARE:

Donnhoff: above all, for the jaw-dropping soul-stirring Hermannshöhle GG, perhaps the greatest dry Riesling I’ve ever tasted from Germany.

Leitz: He’s become a steadily stellar producer of a trifecta of great dry Rieslings from Katerloch (in the Roseneck), Hinterhaus (Rottland) and Terassen (Kaisersteinfels).

Picture: Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Schlossgut Diel: Pittermännchen GG is enticingly promising!

Von Winning: Pechstein GG is an explosive terroir-lover’s dream.

Minges: 2010 Froschkönig, still in cask (!), and the closest a German wine has ever drawn to the murmuring depths of the greatest wines of Nikolaihof.

Kerpen: Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben, a model for success in a genre that seldom succeeds – balanced, delicious Mosel Riesling with depth.

THE ABSOLUTE TOP VALUES:

Stub: Soil to Soul, which is becoming absurdly good and remains absurdly attractively priced.

THE BEST CONCEIVABLE FOOD-WINES:

Weingart: one after another after another, but none more than the virtually perfect Spay Riesling Spätlese Feinherb. Somms: if you only bought one single wine from this entire offering, this is the one I’d suggest. (Whereupon I’d suggest you buy about thirty more, but whatever….)

Schneider: Niederhäuser Kertz Riesling Spätlese Feinherb.

Hexamer:‘Porphyr’ Riesling Feinherb.

THE MOST DROOLINGLY STUPID_TOTAL_FUN WINES:

Reuscher-Harrt: Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett, which I don’t remotely need to “sell,” but which is just ridiculously charming in 2011.

Darting: Dürkheimer Feuerberg Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken. Drink it and try not to grin, I dare you.”




schiller-wine - Related Postings

Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

2011: Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2010 Vintage

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Impressions from the Riesling and Co World Tour 2010 in New York

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

The Wines of the Roter Hang (Red Slope) in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

Germany’s Best Dry Rieslings – Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2011

Best German Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012

Germany’s Top 100 Winemakers – Handelsblatt online and Vinum 2011

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Best German Wine and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2011)

Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012

Natural Wine Bars: Terroir in San Francisco, Terroirs in London and La Cremerie in Paris

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Terroir in San Francisco

Last year in Pamhagen in Austria in the stone cave below the winery with Werner Michlits, where Werner showed us his magic cow poop and other ingredients for biodynamic farming, I really felt at the forefront of wine making with an ecological mindset (See: At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria). Last year, I also tasted the Santa Julia wines of Familia Zuccardi, who produce mass wines in Argentina with organic grapes. Argentina, in general, is very well suited for organic wine making (Julia Zuccardi from Familia Zuccardi in Argentina Visited the US to Introduce New Santa Julia Wines). “We practice sustainable agriculture in the vineyard” said Yann-Leon Beyer when I visited Domaine Leon Beyer in Alsace in France (Visiting Yann-Leon Beyer at Maison Leon Beyer in Eguisheim in Alsace). The Donkey and Goat Winery in Berkeley is passionate about the concept of natural wine making in the midst of the city of Berkeley without owning any vineyards (Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery – Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California). Researchers have found out that from a point of view of minimizing the carbon footprint, New Yorkers should drink Bordeaux instead of domestic wine from California.

There are many winemakers on the “green” route, although they account only for a small fraction of the whole industry. These “green” winemakers came in different shades. The concept of natural wine making is one of several concepts of wine making with an ecological mindset. I have provided a primer about “green” wine making: Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

This posting focuses on natural wines, in particular on 3 wine bars that serve only “natural” wines: Terroir in San Francisco, Terroirs in London and La Cremerie in Paris. See for more details:

The Natural Wines of Terroir in San Francisco

Focus on Natural Wines: The Terroirs Wine Bar in London

The Natural Wines of La Cremerie in Paris

Weinrallye #50 Naturwein - Natural Wine

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "natural wine". Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany. The first wine rally took place in 2007. Thomas Lippert is the author of the wine blog Winzerblog.

This month's wine rally is organized by winemaker Iris Rutz, who owns and runs Lisson, a small wine-producing estate in the Jaur Valley, close to Olargues, in the south of France: Two hectares of vineyards nestling in a forest of chestnut trees and ever-green oak. The vines are planted on small terraces on the hill-side behind the house. Lisson has always been a wine-producing estate - right up until the 1930's when the farm had to be abandoned. The fields and vineyard quickly became overgrown with weeds and the forest threatened to take over completely. Claude Rudel bought the farm 25 years ago and when he was later joined by Iris Rutz they decided to fulfill their dream of returning the estate and its landscape to its original agricultural tradition.

Natural Wine

The idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for Mother Nature. Natural wines are hands-off wines produced with as little intervention as possible. Generally, the concept of natural wine relates more to what happens in the wine cellar rather than what happens in the vineyard. Again, nowhere is the term defined by law; it is left open to interpretation. Typically, only natural yeasts are used, the fermentation is slow, there is little or no use of new oak barrels; and there are no filtrations or cold stabilization. Commercial yeasts are one of the great culprits in today’s homogenization of wine, imparting their own aromas over those of the grape.

La Cremerie in Paris

La Cremerie is a fascinating little place on the Left Bank near Odeon and Bd St Germain, right in the center of the Quartier Latin, owned and managed by Serge and Helene Mathieu. They sell and pour natural wines and serve small plates of exceptional artisanal charcuterie and cheeses, but also oysters, foie gras, and smoked tuna.

La Crèmerie began its life in 1880 as a dairy, and the interiors remain unchanged today – counters made of slabs of marble, ancient wooden fridges, a fabulous pastel ceiling fresco painted on silk. In 1947, it became a cave à vins and, three years ago, Serge and Helene took over.

Pictures: Impressions from La Cremerie in Paris

It is a small place, just enough room for 12 people to sit down, plus four stools at the bar. There is no kitchen for hot dishes.

The concept of the place is to be both a wine bar and a wine store. You can walk in, choose a bottle, pay and walk away. You can also drink a glass from the (limited) wine-by-the-glass selection, or buy a bottle from the shelves, pay an extra 10 Euro corkage fee and drink it there.

When I was there, it was Serge’s turn. Born in New York, Serge lived all his life in France and is an architect by training. He discovered the “green” wines, loved them and decided to make a profession of that love. I did not meet Helene. She is also an architect. Serge and Helene have four children.

There are about 200 wines, mostly in the Euro 6 to 15 range. But I also saw wines for up to Euro 250. All French regions are represented, with the emphasis on Loire and Burgundy. All wines are artisanal wines from small growers. And all the wines are natural wines.

Several Saucissons and Jambons hang over the counter, from France and Spain. La Cremerie serves small plates of exceptional artisanal charcuterie and cheeses, but also oysters, foie gras, and smoked tuna. The red-bright ham-slicing machine on the counter is a venerable Berkel made in the year 1936. The Berkel company was at the time based in Rotterdam, Holland.

Terroir in San Francisco

Terroir in San Francisco  serves only wines that are considered by the owners as natural wines and that are from the Old World. For the Terroir San Francisco people this has a lot to do with the use of sulfur in the fermentation process. “We certainly have the largest list of wines in the US with no added sulfur, but not all our wines are sulfur free. When they are not, we allow for only very small amounts” said owner Luc Ertoran.

Terroir was inspired by wine bars like La Cremerie in Paris. Like La Cremerie, Terroir is a combined retail store and wine bar. Terroir opened in 2007 selling 70 wines. Now it has 600 to 700 available. Almost all the wines are European. Within Europe, France and Italy dominate.

Pictures: Impressions from Terroir in San Francisco

Terroir looks like a converted warehouse with exposed beams - modern and minimalistic. There is a large open space, a simple, minimal bar, bottles on rough wood shelves and a wine storage area in back. Terroir has a record player in the corner and an extensive collection of vinyl.

As for food, “we have charcuterie and cheese’’ said Luc and we ordered a very nice cheese plate.

Terroirs in London

Terroirs is a wine bar and restaurant situated in the heart of the London West End, a stone’s throw from Trafalgar Square and adjacent to the Charing Cross station. It seats 45 covers with a further 12 seats at the zinc top bar (which are non bookable).

The Terroirs in London is spelled with an s at the end. In terms of the wine selection, it resembles very much the San Francisco Terroir. But while Terroirs London also focuses on natural wine, it defines natural wine in a broader sense than the Terroir San Francisco, wines that I would call “green wines”, wines made with an ecological concept in mind. There are lots of certified organic and biodynamic wines on the list.

 Pictures: Impressions from Terroirs in London

The focus is on France and Italy. I did not see any New World wines. Many of the French growers are certified organic and biodynamic. Several of the Italian growers belong to Vin Veri (Real Wines), a movement of like-minded natural winemakers. About 25 wines are under £20 and 80 in total under £30.

Charcuterie is a feature of Terroirs. The selection changes but usually offers a terrine, a rustic jambon persillé, some French saucisse, lardo di Colonnata and ham. A selection of seasonal cheeses is available. The cheeses can be ordered individually or as part of a selection. There are also quite a number of full-sized dishes - pot-roasted quail with pancetta and gremolata, for example, or salt cod with soft-boiled eggs.



schiller-wine: Related Postings

Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery – Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California

Excellency and Ecology: The Wines of Gebrueder Dr. Becker in Rheinhessen, Germany

The Millesime Bio 2010 in Montpellier, France: A Discovery of Organic and Biodynamic Wines at the one of a Kind Wine Trade Show

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyard Wines in Washington DC

A Visit of Cantina di Soave, Soave, Italy

Pictures:  Christian G.E. Schiller with Winemakers Luigino Bertolazzi (above) and Giancarlo Piubelli (below)

Following the EWBC 2011 in Brescia, I went with a number of fellow-bloggers on a day trip to Soave, guided by Elisabetta Tosi . We visited 3 wineries – Balestri Valda, Coffele and Cantina Sociale di Soave and met a group of winemaker – Soavecru - in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, where we had lunch with them and tasted their wines.

This is the fifth in a series of postings on Soave:

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Meeting the Winemakers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, Soave, Italy  

The final posting will be:

How Ricioto di Soave is Made

The Soave Zone

Soave is a white wine produced in the surrounding area of the fascinating middle age villages of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone, between the picturesque cities of Venice and Verona in the eastern part of the province of Verona in Italy’s Veneto region.

The majority of the vineyards are in the hills. Beautiful centuries-old castles, churches, bell towers, and aristocratic villas are all part of the rich history and traditions of this area, and indicative of the region’s principal product, Soave wines. There are about 3000 growers and 120 wineries, ranging from boutique producers making wine from tiny plots to a few large cooperatives, which make credible wine at attractive prices.

Many of the vineyards are comprised of basalt rock or volcanic stone, which explains the minerality in the wines, while other sites are more dominated by calcaire (limestone). Given the excellent drainage of hillside vineyards, yields are naturally low, which provides more deeply concentrated wines which can age for many years.

Christian G.E. Schiller with Winemaker Luigino Bertolazzi

Soave has developed a reputation of producing simple, crisp wines which pair very well with Italian but also other food. Soave wines tend to have low acid. It is one of the top selling wines in Italy, exported all over the world.

The prevailing grape is the Garganega, the fifth most planted white grape in Italy. Soave must contain at least 70 percent of Garganega, and the rest can be Trebbiano, but Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco are also allowed.

Classification of Soave Wines

All Soave wines – as all Italian wines – belong to one of the following 4 quality levels.

(1) Vino da Tavola (VDT): A very basic wine, made for local consumption; the bottle label does not indicate the region or grape variety. This is the wine you typically get served in a Pizzeria or Trattoria in Italy, when you ask for the “house wine”. Simple, cheap and decent. I can tell, sitting late in the evening at a Piazza in Soave and eating Pizza with a Vino da Tavola, served in a 1 liter jug, is just great.

(2) Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): Wines that are considered to be of higher quality than simple table wines, but which do not conform to DOC and DOCG regulations. In the case of Soave, the label would only indicate the region, Veneto. So, you would not recognize it as a Soave. Sometimes, these are premium wines of winemakers who dropped the DOC/DOCG designation and instead carry the broader Veneto IGT designation, allowing them to try to improve quality by using nontraditional grapes, blends, viticultural practices or vinification techniques that are not allowed under the DOC and DOCG standards.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Fellow Blogger and Tour Organizer/Guide Elisabetta Tosi in Soave

(3) Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC). Soave is currently the largest DOC appellation in Italy, with 15,500 acres of vines. There is Soave DOC and Soave Classico DOC. Soave Classico DOC can only come from the Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone communes. The Soave zone produces approximately 40 million bottles of Soave DOC wine every year and 15 million Soave Classico DOC wine.

(4) Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). DOCG wines are a tick higher in terms of quality requirements than DOC wines (maximum yield for example), which is the highest category in Italy's wine-classification system. About 13,000 acres of vine of the 15,500 acres of the DOC appellation also qualify for DOCG.

There are 2 Soave DOCG appellations: The Soave Superiore DOCG and the Recioto di Soave DOCG.

The Soave Superiore DOCG production zone is in the hillside sites, outside of the communes of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. If aged for a minimum of 2 years, the wine can be labeled as Riserva.

Second, there is Recioto di Soave DOCG, which can come as Bianco (normale), Classico (from the classical zone) and Spumante. These are sweet-style straw wines, where the grapes are dried indoors in open plastic containers for from four to six months, during which they lose over 50% of their moisture, followed by a long, slow fermentation, often in small barrels.

Straw wines are typically sweet wines, capable of long life, but do not have to be sweet. For example, the straw wines from the blend of red wine grapes typical of Valpolicella can come as dry or sweet: If fermentation is complete, the result is a (dry) Amarone della Valpolicella; if fermentation is incomplete, the result is a (sweet) Recioto della Valpolicella. Fermentation may stop for several reasons including high alcohol.

An Anchor for Winemaking in Soave: Cantina di Soave

Pictures: Cantina Borgo Rocca Sveva in Soave

The Cantina di Soave was founded in 1898 and is today one of Italy’s most prestigious wine producers. With 6,000 hectares of vineyards, the winery not only boasts an impressive past, but exhibits today a dynamism that is expressed in a wealth of initiatives and novel challenges. Piece by piece, Cantina di Soave has succeeded in assembling over time an illustrious mosaic of winemaking facilities and vineyards that now extends far beyond its territory of Soave, home of the celebrated Soave wine, to include the Garda area and the hills of Valpolicella, the domain of Amarone.

Faithful to its tradition of constant growth and to careful attention to the distinctive characteristics of each single growing area, Cantina di Soave has created over the years a rich portfolio of vineyards dedicated for the most part to growing the area’s native grape varieties, in particular the Garganega grape, which produces Soave, and Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella, which yield Valpolicella, Ripasso, and Amarone. The winery’s goals are to further develop the varieties’ quality potential and to contribute to their long tradition, to which Cantina di Soave feels itself strongly bound. As the latest pearl in its already-precious strand, the winery has acquired the Montecchia di Crosara cellar, whose standard-bearer, Durello, is produced from the indigenous Durella grape.

The 6 Sites of Cantina di Soave

HISTORICAL HEADQUARTERS IN VIA ROMA, SOAVE - Operating since 1898, this is Cantina di Soave’s historic original headquarters, located within the circuit of the city walls.

ADMINISTRATIVE OFFICES, VIALE VITTORIA, SOAVE - Cantina di Soave’s administrative offices and winemaking facility, opened in 1962, occupies 40,000 sq.mt; most of Cantina di Soave’s wines are made and packaged here.

CANTINA DI CAZZANO DI TRAMIGNA - Located in Valpolicella, the Cazzano di Tramigna winery produces exclusively red wines, and in accord with a policy of specialisation, carries out the appassimento (natural semi-drying of the grapes) process for red wines, including Ripasso and Amarone.

CANTINA DI BORGO ROCCA SVEVA - The winery in Borgo Rocca Sveva, the historically-important hamlet restored to pristine magnificence in 2003, produces, matures, and packages the ROCCA SVEVA wines, Cantina di Soave’s ultra-premium wine line. In its caves too matures EQUIPE 5, the vintage-dated classic-method spumante. One of Borgo Rocca Sveva’s most striking features is its underground ageing cellars, a fascinating, 2,000 sq.mt.-system of caves that honeycombs the rock formations beneath the Castello di Soave. These unique passageways naturally maintain a constant temperature and humidity year-round, perfect conditions for the storage and ageing of the most valuable wines.

Pictures: The Cellar of  Cantina Borgo Rocca Sveva

CANTINA DI ILLASI - Joining forces with the historic Cantina di Illasi was in accord with a policy of improving and rationalising wine production in the hill areas of Valpolicella. The 2005 union made it possible to establish a large production facility to the east of Verona, which can handle 47% of the Valpolicella DOC, with economies of scale that lead to obvious benefits for costs.

CANTINA DI MONTECCHIA DI CROSARA - The acquisition of this cellar in Montecchia di Crosara satisfied the need for large-scale production capability, which is indispensible today if one is to remain competitive and to exercise influence in markets around the globe. This union enabled Cantina di Soave, already one of Italy’s foremost vertically-integrated winery cooperatives, to strengthen its position within the Italian and European wine markets, and to become the main producer of Lessini Durello (with 70% of Lessini Durello DOC).

CANTINA DI SOAVE, USA BRANCH - In 2009, Cantina di Soave USA opened in Boston, Massachusetts, thus ensuring the Verona-based producer an important, front-line presence in the American market; its goal is the re-launching of the wine denominations traditional to Verona, including Soave, Valpolicella, and Amarone, where Cantina di Soave occupies a leading role.

The Cantina di Soave Wine Portfolio

Soave Superiore Classico DOCG
Castelcerino

Grapes: Garganega 80%, Trebbiano di Soave 20%.
Origin: Castelcerino vineyard.
Fining: in stainless steel tanks for 9 months followed by 3 months in the bottle.

Soave Classico DOC

Grapes: 100% Garganega.
Origin: from the historic Classico zone, which lies between the quaint medieval town of Soave itself and the Monteforte d’Alpone.
Fining: in stainless steel tanks.

Bardolino Classico DOC

Grapes: Corvina and Molinara 70%, Rondinella 30%.
Fining: in stainless steel tanks for 6 months.

Valpolicella superiore DOC

Grapes: Corvina 70%, Molinara and Rondinella 30%.
Origin: the vineyards are situated in the DOC Valpolicella area.
Fining: the wine is aged in large oak barrels for at least 10 months and is then refined in bottle for 4-6 months.

Valpolicella superiore DOC
Ripasso

Grapes: Corvina 70%, Molinara and Rondinella 30%.
Origin: The vineyards are situated in the DOC Valpolicella area.
Wine making Ripasso is the refermentation of Valpolicella on the lees of Amarone.
and fining: The result is a much greater concentration of flavours and aromas, producing extra body and pleasant smoothness. Ageing is 30% in barriques and 70% in large oak barrels for 12-18 months, and 6 months fining in the bottle.

Amarone della Valpolicella DOC

Grapes: Corvina 70%, Molinara and Rondinella 30%.
Origin: the vineyards are situated in the DOC Valpolicella area.
Wine making the hand picked grapes dried for at least 3 months. After crushing and
and fining: fermentation, the wine ages in large oak barrels from Slavonia for at least 24 months and is then refined in bottle for 12 months.
Alcohol content: 14.5% vol.

Amarone della Valpolicella DOC

RiservaGrapes: Corvina 70%, Molinara and Rondinella 30%.
Origin: the vineyards are situated in the DOC Valpolicella area.
Wine making the hand picked grapes are dried for at least 3 months. After crushing
and fining: and fermentation, the wine ages in large oak barrels from Slavonia for at least 48 months and is then refined in bottle for 12 months.
Alcohol content: 15% vol.

Garda Chardonnay DOC

Grapes: 100% Chardonnay.
Fining: in stainless steel tanks for 5 months.
Alcohol content: 12.5% vol.

Garda Cabernet Sauvignon DOC

Grapes: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Fining: the wine is aged in 225 litre barriques for at least 12 months, followed by
refining in the bottle for 6 months.
Alcohol content: 13% vol

Lycos bianco delle Venezie IGT

Grapes: Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave.
Fining: in barriques for 12 months followed by refining in the bottle for 12 months.
Alcohol content: 13% vol.

Fulvo Rosso delle Venezie IGT

Grapes: Corvina, Croatina.
Fining: in barriques for about 20 months and 6 months in the bottle.
Alcohol content: 13% vol.

Recioto di Soave classico DOCG Recioto di Soave classico DOCG Mida

Grapes: 100% Garganega.
Wine making the grapes are dried for at least 3 months. 50% aged in steel tanks, 50%
and fining: in barriques for 12 months.
Alcohol content: 12.5% vol.

Recioto di Soave classico DOCG Mida

Grapes: 100% Garganega.
Wine making the grapes are dried for at least 3 months. 50% aged in steel tanks, 50%
and fining: in barriques for 12 months.

Vino da Tavola

Alcohol content: 12.5% vol.

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Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion - A Profile, France

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dog Oscar at Château Figeac (Saint-Emilion - Premier Grand Cru Classé B)

Château Figeac is in the northwest of the Saint-Émilion appellation, neighboring Château Cheval Blanc. With 40 hectares of vineyards, it is the largest estate in Saint-Émilion. Its grand vin release price for the 2010 vintage was Euro 168 ex-negiciant.

Because of its fine gravel based soil (which is uncommon in the Right Bank), Merlot accounts only for 30 % of the plantings (which is very low by Saint Emilion standards).  The Château Figeac grand vin is dominated (70%) by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in equal parts. Château Figeac is known as the most Médoc of the Ste Emilion chateaux.

Château Figeac is an old estate. It takes its name from a Roman called Figeacus who built a villa here. Today, one can still see a water-supply system dating from the Gallo-Roman period, foundations of buildings from the Middle Ages and defensive walls along with the remains of a Renaissance chateau incorporated into its structure.

Until the late 18th century, Chateau Figeac had been in the hands of one family for almost 500 years. With almost 200 hectares, Chateau Figeac was one of the largest wine estates at the time, but parts were sold and the estate was subdivided several times until 1892, when the Manoncourt family purchased Chateau Figeac. (A sizable chunk which was purchased by the Ducasse family in 1832 formed the nucleus of what would eventually become Cheval Blanc.)

Pictures: Chateau Figeac

For the past 60 years, Chateau Figeac was been associated with Thierry Manoncourt, who took over the management of the property in 1946, and his wife Marie-France; Thierry Manacourt passed away in 2010. It was under his leadership that Chateau Figeac rose to the front ranks of Saint-Émilion estates. His son-in-law Comte Eric d'Aramon took over the daily running of the estate in 1988.  In 1992, Thierry Manacourt  divided the business between his 4 daughters, bestowing the larger share on his eldest daughter, Laure.

Chateau Figeac tends to harvest early with a view of retaining freshness. After Haut Brion and Latour, Chateau Figeac was the third estate in Bordeaux to introduce stainless steel tanks; there are now 20 temperature controlled vats, 10 in oak and 10 stainless steel. Since the mid 1970s, Figeac has been aged in 100% new oak. Even Petrus has not used 100% new oak since 1990. The time spent in new oak varies according to the vintage character. The 1997 vintage was aged 12 months, while the 2009 vintage saw new oak for 18 months.

The following wines are produced: Château Figeac (Saint-Emilion - Premier Grand Cru Classé B), La Grange-Neuve de Figeac (second wine) and Chateau Petit-Figeac (bought in 2002 as most of the vineyard was in the middle of their Château Figeac vineyard. The wine is now made at Château Figeac). In total, the Figeac estate amounts to 54 hectares of which 40 are planted with vines. Annual production is 10 000 cases.

The family also owns two other wineries: the nearby Château La Fleur-Pourret (4,5 hectares, Chateau La Fleur Pourret was part of Chateau Figeac many years ago, also bought in 2002), and Château de Millery (just over 1 hectare), in the southern sector of St.-Emilion known as St.-Christophe des Bardes.

Owner: Madame Tierry Manancourt et ses enfants
DG: Comte Eric d'Aramon
Winemaking: Frederic Faye, Jean Albino

Some Chateau Figeac Prices

En Primeur release prices (ex-negiciant): 2009 Euro 160 (Latour: 600), 2010 Euro 168 (Latour: 780).

Current trading prices (average price searcher): 2005 Euro 127, 2006 Euro 88, 2007 Euro 74, 2008 Euro 76, 2009 Euro 204, 2010 Euro 184.

Vintage 2007 Prices: Château Figeac (Saint-Emilion - Premier Grand Cru Classé B) Euro 74, La Grange-Neuve de Figeac Euro 21, Chateau Petit-Figeac Euro 41, Château La Fleur-Pourret Euro 11, Château de Millery Euro 37 (2006)

Freshness Over Power - Panos Kakaviatos on the Figeac Wines

I am copying here tasting notes of Panos Kakaviatos. This is based on a tasting that took place in Washington DC in early 2012. For more see: 11 vintages of Chateau Figeac: freshness over power

2009. Oak still on the nose and palate, a very opulent wine, somewhat mammoth like at this stage but displaying ripe Medoc like cassis and primary fruit, more black than red. It tastes like a barrel sample and has much weight on the palate, with finely grained tannin, albeit just a bit monolithic now. Long finish. 92-95

Pictures: Impressions from Saint-Emilion

2006. Cooler nose. Red rather than black fruit, with a touch of violet aromas that are also offset by a bit of iron, lending a just slightly rustic aspect. But the palate is medium plus in body and packs quite a punch, balancing both richness and verve. Do not touch for a few years… 91+

2005. A lovely nose of ripe cassis and cooler blueberry like fruit, this wine exudes a warmer profile on the palate than the 2006. It also has greater volume and depth, nicely balanced with brisk acidity, with a touch of oak derivation slowly receding. I like the very pure cassis aspect to this wine on the palate, which seems more focused than the 2006 and more nuanced than the 2009, although rather tightly wound for now. Potential for a higher score. 95

2004. A mix of graphite and lightly sweet red fruits, plum and cassis. A very smooth medium-bodied palate, just a touch of vanilla flavored with cedar and brambly red and ripe fruit. An appealingly fresh lingering finish with mint. I can understand why so many people liked the 2004 at the dinner. 93+

2001. Pleasing red cherry, more mineral than mentholated freshness here mingle with a certain olive like flavor on the palate. If I had to choose between 2001 and 2004, I would pick the former because it seems to show a touch more depth, a touch more substance on the mid palate especially. Although the finish is similar, the 2001 adds an extra dimension of toffee-like sweetness. 94

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC. See: A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos

2000. Amazing how this wine has transformed from being a super star in 2005 when I tasted it twice (once in a vertical in Germany in February, once in a blind tasting with most of the other premier grand cru classés) to a bit of a question mark in 2012. Eric d’Aramon admits to having picked perhaps too early to preserve freshness, his greatest concern in general. How will this evolve. Some, like critic John Gilman, sees this as a “positive herbaciousness” while others, notably Robert Parker, say he “blew it” when he graded this highly early on and downgraded the wine more recently. My feeling is that it will develop into a better wine, and taste like some of the more appealing 1970s Bordeaux. But there is not guarantee here… 89 for now.

1999. When I first opened this with sommelier Maria Denton, we both marveled at its floral aspects, but there was a bit of VA that showed itself later à table. Whatever the case may be, it exuded a certain freshness and minerality that pleased my palate. Medium bodied, and perhaps somewhat hollow in the middle, this may have been the weakest of the evening. 88

1998. This had to be one of the two or three best wines of the dinner. It certainly wins as the most sumptuous. Whoever thinks Figeac is thin in the 80s and 90s needs to drink this, or has been drinking too many fruit bombs…. Sorry but that is my subjective opinion. This wine reflects a natural concentration due to a hailstorm, d’Aramon explained. Whatever the cause, the result is magnificent, with focused flavors of red and black fruit, nuanced richness and a fine underlying freshness. A great wine indeed. 95

1995. My how this has improved. When I last tried it with Ben Giliberti in Washington DC two or three years ago, a certain green aspect annoyed me. But that was pretty much gone at this dinner, where I noticed a mélange of stony mineral notes, baked plum and hint of cardamom spice. The tannins were not completely melted, displaying a 1995 “solidity” that one encounters in wines of quality on both sides of the Gironde, indicating yet again that 1995 is a vintage to be reckoned with in Bordeaux. 92

1990. The nose seemed like it needed dusting… but then came a mixture of forest floor, tobacco,  light leather and blackberry and plum flavors. The palate was rich, but not as exciting as the 1998. There was a dusty tannin aspect to the palate as well, that was even worse in one bottle. Later however, some tasters drank from that bottle and thought that that dusty aspect had gone. I am not so sure. Even d’Aramon felt that the 1990 was not showing its best from at least two of the three bottles he brought over ex-chateau. 92, but could have been higher.

1986. Here was perhaps my wine of the night, because I just absolutely adored a certain crushed mint leaf flavor on the nose and on the palate, coupled with faded flowers and pencil shavings. Fully tertiary and yet of high intensity and precision chiseled by brisk acidity that kept this wine quite youthful in fact. This is not a wine for people who want evident fruit or low acidity… In an eloquent address to dinner participants, Burgundy lover Maureen Nelson compared Figeac to fine Burgundy, and I think that the 1986 certainly illustrates that comparison. For me, a beautiful wine. 96

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A Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Pictures: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller in Bordeaux City with a Plateau des Fruits de Mer

Bordeaux – the first thing that comes to mind is wine, of course. But Bordeaux is also very close to the Atlantic Ocean, in particular the sea-side town of Arcachon, noted for its oyster production.

Pictures: The Opera of Bordeaux

So, when I was in Bordeaux recently (See also: In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France), at least on one evening I had to have a Plateau des Fruits de Mer. The one we chose, comprised the following:

6 Huitres #3

Interestingly, while in the US, you get very detailed information about the kind of oyster and the region where it was harvested, the main information in France is the size of the oyster. We ate 6 of the #3.

The Belon: The Belon, or European Flat, is Europe’s native oyster. The Belons are round and shallow. That’s why they are called Flats. They are also not very liquid and dry out fast. They have a long history. They used to grow in Brittany, Normandy, England, Spain, Holland, Greece and the Black Sea. But a disease is wiping them out worldwide.

The Pacific: Originally from Japan, the Pacific or Japanese oyster is the most widely cultured oyster in the world. It accounts for 75% of world production. In France, it has crowded out the Belon and now accounts for 99% of oyster production there.

The Olympia: Olympia is a native American oyster, which once flourished on the West Coast, before the Pacific took over.

The Atlantic: Another American native. Also called Eastern oyster, the Atlantic has a thick, elongated shell that ranges from 2 to 5 inches across. It's found along the Atlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico in the US.

See also: Oysters and Wine

4 Langoustines

Langoustines and Langoustes are different creatures. Lobsters come in two general varieties:  the spiny lobster (common in France) and the smooth shelled lobster (common in Maine). The French (Germans) call the spiny lobster Langouste (Languste) and the smooth shelled lobster Hommard (Hummer). The spiny lobster and the smooth shelled lobster resemble each other, but the spiny lobster (Langouste) does not have claws (Scheren in German); instead it has long antennae.

We did not have Lagouste (spiny lobster), we had Langoustines. The French call large shrimps Langoustines (Kaisergranate in German).

5 Crevettes roses

(Garnelen/shrimps)

Bigorneaux 

(Strandschnecken/winkles)

6 Moules 

(Miesmuscheln/mussels)

Bulots 

(Wellhornschnecken - Grosse Schnecken/ whelks)

3 Armandes 

(Grosse Muscheln/large clams)

6 Coques 

(Kleine Muscheln/small clams)

Crevettes grises 

(Nordseekrabben/small shrimps)

The Wine: Les Demoiselles de Larrivet Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, 2008

We started with a Coupe de Cremant de Bordeaux and then moved to a Sauvignon-Blanc from the region for the Fruits de Mer.

A Château Larrivet Haut-Brion's second wine.

Picture: Les Demoiselles de Larrivet Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, 2008

This Château was almost completely destroyed during the depression of the 1930’s. In 1987, the Gervoson family bought the estate and restored the estate's unity, once again combining the Château, outbuildings, 13 hectares of grounds, and 42 hectares of vines under one owner, as well as replanting 18 hectares of land.
A team of enthusiastic professionals has done a wonderful job of giving Château Larrivet Haut-Brion back its superb reputation, and the estate is once again universally recognized as one of the finest wines in the Pessac-Léognan appellation.

Brilliant golden color with green highlights, bouquet of citrus fruit, typical of Sauvignon Blanc, with honey and smoky notes on the nose, rich, with lemon flavors on the palate, good acidity and well-integrated oak.

Graves and Pessac-Leognan

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion is located in the area of Bordeaux, where it all began. Here is the birthplace of the phenomenal Bordeaux wine boom. It was here – in the Graves - that the region first gained its reputation, as early as the 14th century – hundreds of years before Dutch wine merchants and producers drained the marshes of the Medoc. In the Middle Ages, much of the Claret - as red Bordeaux is called in the United Kingdom - shipped to London was grown within in easy distance to the Quai de Chartrons in Bordeaux.

For centuries, Graves encompassed all the vineyards south of the border with the Medoc, in a great sweep around the city of Bordeaux with the exception of the sweet wine appellations of Sauternes, Cerons and Barsac, which are nestled within the boundaries of the Graves, but are independently recognized because of their outstanding noble-sweet white wines. But in 1987, the Pessac-Leognan appellation was carved out of the northern end of the Graves, encompassing Graves’ most respected producers.  The four key producers in Pessac-Leognan are Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion (both in American hands), Laville Haut-Brion and Pape Clement (named after Pope Clement V, who ordered its original vineyards to be planted in the 14th century).


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Fine Wine and Fine Oysters in Madagascar: Oysters from Fort Dauphin and Wine from Clos Nomena

A Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Pictures: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller in Bordeaux City with a Plateau des Fruits de Mer

Bordeaux – the first thing that comes to mind is wine, of course. But Bordeaux is also very close to the Atlantic Ocean, in particular the sea-side town of Arcachon, noted for its oyster production.

Pictures: The Opera of Bordeaux

So, when I was in Bordeaux recently (See also: In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France), at least on one evening I had to have a Plateau des Fruits de Mer. The one we chose, comprised the following:

6 Huitres #3

Interestingly, while in the US, you get very detailed information about the kind of oyster and the region where it was harvested, the main information in France is the size of the oyster. We ate 6 of the #3.

The Belon: The Belon, or European Flat, is Europe’s native oyster. The Belons are round and shallow. That’s why they are called Flats. They are also not very liquid and dry out fast. They have a long history. They used to grow in Brittany, Normandy, England, Spain, Holland, Greece and the Black Sea. But a disease is wiping them out worldwide.

The Pacific: Originally from Japan, the Pacific or Japanese oyster is the most widely cultured oyster in the world. It accounts for 75% of world production. In France, it has crowded out the Belon and now accounts for 99% of oyster production there.

The Olympia: Olympia is a native American oyster, which once flourished on the West Coast, before the Pacific took over.

The Atlantic: Another American native. Also called Eastern oyster, the Atlantic has a thick, elongated shell that ranges from 2 to 5 inches across. It's found along the Atlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico in the US.

See also: Oysters and Wine

4 Langoustines

Langoustines and Langoustes are different creatures. Lobsters come in two general varieties:  the spiny lobster (common in France) and the smooth shelled lobster (common in Maine). The French (Germans) call the spiny lobster Langouste (Languste) and the smooth shelled lobster Hommard (Hummer). The spiny lobster and the smooth shelled lobster resemble each other, but the spiny lobster (Langouste) does not have claws (Scheren in German); instead it has long antennae.

We did not have Lagouste (spiny lobster), we had Langoustines. The French call large shrimps Langoustines (Kaisergranate in German).

5 Crevettes roses

(Garnelen/shrimps)

Bigorneaux 

(Strandschnecken/winkles)

6 Moules 

(Miesmuscheln/mussels)

Bulots 

(Wellhornschnecken - Grosse Schnecken/ whelks)

3 Armandes 

(Grosse Muscheln/large clams)

6 Coques 

(Kleine Muscheln/small clams)

Crevettes grises 

(Nordseekrabben/small shrimps)

The Wine: Les Demoiselles de Larrivet Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, 2008

We started with a Coupe de Cremant de Bordeaux and then moved to a Sauvignon-Blanc from the region for the Fruits de Mer.

A Château Larrivet Haut-Brion's second wine.

Picture: Les Demoiselles de Larrivet Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, 2008

This Château was almost completely destroyed during the depression of the 1930’s. In 1987, the Gervoson family bought the estate and restored the estate's unity, once again combining the Château, outbuildings, 13 hectares of grounds, and 42 hectares of vines under one owner, as well as replanting 18 hectares of land.
A team of enthusiastic professionals has done a wonderful job of giving Château Larrivet Haut-Brion back its superb reputation, and the estate is once again universally recognized as one of the finest wines in the Pessac-Léognan appellation.

Brilliant golden color with green highlights, bouquet of citrus fruit, typical of Sauvignon Blanc, with honey and smoky notes on the nose, rich, with lemon flavors on the palate, good acidity and well-integrated oak.

Graves and Pessac-Leognan

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion is located in the area of Bordeaux, where it all began. Here is the birthplace of the phenomenal Bordeaux wine boom. It was here – in the Graves - that the region first gained its reputation, as early as the 14th century – hundreds of years before Dutch wine merchants and producers drained the marshes of the Medoc. In the Middle Ages, much of the Claret - as red Bordeaux is called in the United Kingdom - shipped to London was grown within in easy distance to the Quai de Chartrons in Bordeaux.

For centuries, Graves encompassed all the vineyards south of the border with the Medoc, in a great sweep around the city of Bordeaux with the exception of the sweet wine appellations of Sauternes, Cerons and Barsac, which are nestled within the boundaries of the Graves, but are independently recognized because of their outstanding noble-sweet white wines. But in 1987, the Pessac-Leognan appellation was carved out of the northern end of the Graves, encompassing Graves’ most respected producers.  The four key producers in Pessac-Leognan are Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion (both in American hands), Laville Haut-Brion and Pape Clement (named after Pope Clement V, who ordered its original vineyards to be planted in the 14th century).


schiller-wine: Related Postings

A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos

The Wines from Entre Deux Mers Winemaker Joel Duffau

Henri Lurton and his Chateau Brane Cantenac Wines

The Emerging Wine Giant China - Mouton Cadet Bar Opening

(German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of Baron Philippe de Rothschild

Emerging Wine Country: China's Wine Boom Since 2000

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France

Vin Bio de Bordeaux - At Château Beauséjour in AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, France

Malbec World Day 2012 - Malbec in Bordeaux, France 

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The Best Wines for US West Coast and Other Oysters

West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA

Fine Wine and Fine Oysters in Madagascar: Oysters from Fort Dauphin and Wine from Clos Nomena