Sunday, April 4, 2010

Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

Picture: Terry Theise, Terry Theise Facebook Fan Page

Terry Theise

Terry Theise just returned from Germany and has put his “back-to-office” report on his Facebook Fan Page, including a listing of his top wines in various categories. Of course, it is not a comprehensive review of German wine, but focuses on Terry Theise’s portfolio of winemakers, which is large and exceptional.

Terry Theise is one of the leading experts of German Wine in the US. Among the vast number of his followers, he has gained something like a cult status. He publishes a thick catalogue once a year with extensive comments. In addition to the compendium of exciting wine reviews, the Terry Theise’s annual catalogue is a very good introduction to German wine, both to the basics and to the current trends and issues. Terry also has a forthcoming book to be published this fall by UC Press.

If you want to learn more about Terry, the Washington Post carried an excellent article about him some time ago. See here.

2008 James Beard Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
2005 Food & Wine Magazine Importer of the Year

His wines are imported by Michael Skurnik , an importer and distributor of fine wines based in Syosset, New York. Terry also imports Austrian wine and Champagnes, including excellent grower Champagnes.

I am looking forward to a wine dinner with Terry Theise in a few weeks, organized by the Washington DC Chapter of the German Wine Society. If you are interested, please drop me a line at cgeschiller@gmail.com

Terry Theise's Top Wines

Before moving to his list of the 2009 top wines, here are a few comments.

First, his selection is heavily tilted to the Mosel region. The wine of the vintage and the 3 runners up, for example, come all from the Mosel.

Second, I did not see any red wines, although they now account for 1/3 of the German wine output. Terry is clearly focusing on Germany’s white wines. Nor have I seen a category for sparkling wines; for sparklers, you have to go to his excellent portfolio of Champagnes, including many grower Champagnes. His list does not include any noble-sweet wines, although he talks about them in his report.

Third, a Spaetlese from Armin Diehl, Nahe won the Scheurebe of the Vintage award; Scheurebe is an exciting, but hard to find grape variety. I like it that he has a separate category for the grape created by Dr. Scheu.

You can find the whole report on his Facebook Fan Page. See here.

THE WINE OF THE VINTAGE IS:

Selbach-Oster Schmitt

RUNNERS-UP INCLUDE:

Von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese, Alte Reben
Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5

Clüsserath Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett

THE AUSLESE OF THE VINTAGE IS:

Meulenhof/Justen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #13

RUNNERS-UP INCLUDE:

Carl Loewen Thörnicher Ritsch Riesling Auslese
Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Auslese
Eugen Müller Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Auslese

THE SCHEUREBE OF THE VINTAGE IS

Diel Spätlese

THE KABINETTS OF THE VINTAGE ARE:

(In order of greatness)
Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett
Von Othegraven Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett
Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett
Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Kabinett

THE BIGGEST SURPRISES OF THE VINTAGE ARE:

Eugen Müller Gewürztraminer Spätlese
Hexamer Sauvignon Blanc
Leitz Berg Rottland Riesling Alte Reben

THE GREATEST DRY WINES ARE:
(in order of greatness)

Leitz Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Alte Reben
Dr Deinhard Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Müller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Riesling Trocken
Wagner-Stempel Heerkretz Riesling Grosses Gewächs

THE ABSOLUTE TOP VALUES:

Selbach Saar Riesling!!

Leitz 1-2-3 Riesling
Eugen Müller Forster Mariengarten Riesling Kabinett
Theo Minges Riesling Halbtrocken LITER

THE BEST IMAGINEABLE FOOD-WINES:

Eugen Müller Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken
Darting Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken
Diel Burg-Layen Riesling Kabinett

SHORT-LIST FOR ROCK-HEADS:

Diel Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Spätlese
Selbach-Oster Anrecht Riesling
Spreitzer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs

SHORT-LIST FOR FRUIT AND CHARM HOUNDS:

Geil Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett
Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett

SHORT-LIST FOR GOOFY PLEASURE:

Darting Dürkheimer Hochbenn Muskateller Kabinett Trocken
Minges Riesling LITER
Weingart Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Kabinett
Merkelbach Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Kabinett #8



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