The Sancerre Wines of Christian and Karine Lauverjat

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Christian and Karine Lauverjat from Sancerre

Laurent Givrey from Elite Imports brought a large group of winemakers over to the Washington DC area at the end of April. I was able to establish contact with and taste the wines of a number of them. One of the winemakers, who impressed me very much, was the husband and wife team Christian and Karine Lauverjat from Domaine Lauverjat in Sancerre, France. I had the opportunity to taste his wines at Paul’s on Wisconsin Avenue.

Loire Valley

The Loire Valley includes a number of wine regions along the Loire River, from the Muscadet region on the Atlantic coast to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé in north central France. In between are the regions of Anjou, Saumur, Bourgueil, Chinon, and Vouvray. appellations.

The majority of production is white wine from the Chenin Blanc and the Sauvignon Blanc grapes. There are, however, some red wines made, notably in the Chinon region, from Cabernet Franc. In addition, with the Crémant de Loire, the Loire Valley is the second largest sparkling wine producer in France, after Champagne.

The Loire Valley has a long history of winemaking. In the High Middle Ages, the wines of the Loire Valley were the most esteemed wines in England and France. It is also noteworthy for its architectural heritage, in its breathtaking historic towns such as Amboise, Angers, Blois, Chinon, Nantes, Orléans, Saumur, and Tours, but in particular for its castles, such as the Châteaux d'Amboise, Château de Chambord, Château de Villandry and Chenonceau.

Picture: The Wine regions of the Loire Valley

Sancerre

Almost all of the appellation of Sanceree lie on the left bank of the Loire, opposite Pouilly-Fumé, in the western part of the Loire Valley. Sancerre is well regarded for and primarily associated with Sauvignon Blanc, making wines of great purity and elegance. Pinot Noir is also grown, accounting for around 20% of the region's production. A rosé style from Pinot noir is also produced.

The focus of Sancerre winemakers is usually to express the pure fruit flavors of Sauvignon Blanc and the natural terroir of the region.Sancerre wines tend to have very little interaction with oak, instead spending most of their fermentation and aging period in large stainless steel fermentation tanks. However, since the late 20th century some producers have begun experimenting with some degree of oak fermentation or aging.

The vine growing area is 2200 hectars; about 16 million bottles is the annual production.

Cheese of the Sancerre region

I not only like the wines of the Sancerre region, but also the delicious cheese, they produce there: Chabichou du Poitou, Crottin de Chavignol, Pouligny Saint Pierre, Valencay.

Domaine Lauverjat

Husband and wife team Christian and Karine Lauverjat's Domaine Lauverjat lies in the village of Sury-en-Vaux in the heart of the Sancerre Appellation. The property has been in the family for several generations, but Christian and Karine are the first to make and bottle their own wines.

The 12 hectares of vineyard are on the slopes of one hill, with two main soil types. The upper part of the hill is dominated by limestone clay soils, known locally as terre blanche which produce full bodied, well-structured wines. The lower part of the slope has a pebble limestone soil known locally as caillottes which tends to produce lighter more fruity wines.

What Christian and Karine Poured

Sancerre Moulin des Vrilleres Blanc 2009

Tasting notes: Straw yellow in the glass, notes of herbs and gooseberries on the nose. medium bodied, crisp and dry, flavors of smoky minerals, juicy tangy citrus and pink grapefruit on the palate, lasting finish, an easy going wine.
Sale $17.99 Reg. $21.99

Sancerre Moulin des Vrilleres Rosé 2008

Tasting notes: 100% Pinot Noir, pale orange in the glass, fresh strawberries and raspberries on the nose, medium-bodied, satin-textured, fruity, well-balanced wine with a long finish.
Sale $18.99 Reg. $23.99

Sancerre Moulin des Vrilleres Rouge 2008
Tasting notes: ruby in the glass, on the nose are aromas of cherry pit, lavender, humus and ripe fruits, medium to full bodied wine, generous tart cherry and hints of fresh herb notes on the palate, the cherry fruit comes out again on the finish.
Sale $18.99 Reg. $23.99

Domaine Lauverjat, Sancerre, France
lauverjat.christian@wanadoo.fr

Elite Wines, US
www.elitewines.net



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The Wines of Argentina's Cult Winemaker Achaval-Ferrer

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Marcelo Victoria, director of wine Achaval-Ferrer

I was thrilled when I heard that the Sales Director of one of Argentina’s finest boutique wineries – Achaval-Ferrer - would be in Washington DC to show his lineup. The Achaval-Ferrer wines have developed a cult following in the US in recent years.

Wine Country Argentina

Argentina has always been a giant wine producer. But historically, Argentine winemakers were more interested in quantity than quality with the country consuming 90% of the wine it produced. For most of the 1900s, Argentina produced more wine than any other country outside Europe, though the vast majority was consumed at home. Argentine wines started being exported during the 1990s, and are currently growing in popularity, making Argentina now the second biggest wine exporter in Latin America, behind Chile. The devaluation of the Argentine peso in 2002, following the economic collapse, further fueled the wine industry.

Argentina is the 5th largest producer of wine in the world, following Spain, France, Italy and the US. Like much of the new world, Argentina owes its first vineyards to the Catholic church and its Holy Communion. As early as 1556, missionary priests crossed the Andes from the Spanish colony in what is now Chile, to Argentina.

The wine industry grew rapidly, as the Spanish and Italian immigrants brought with them the habit of having a bottle of wine with every meal. In the 1920s, Argentina was the 8th richest nation in the world. Domestic wine consumption was as high as 90 liters per person.

Yet it is only very recently - perhaps over the last ten or fifteen years - that the wine industry has really begun to develop the methods, attitudes and will to become a serious player in the international wine market.

Wine regions

The Andes Mountains are the dominant geographical feature of Argentine wine regions, with the snow cap mountains often serving as a back drop view in the vineyards. Most of the wine regions are located within the foothills of the Andes. The most important wine regions of the country are located in the provinces of Mendoza and San Juan and La Rioja. Salta, Catamarca, Río Negro and more recently Southern Buenos Aires are also wine producing regions. The Mendoza province produces more than 60% of the Argentine wine and is the source of an even higher percentage of the total exports.

Picture: Argentina's Wine Regions

Due to the high altitude and low humidity of the main wine producing regions, Argentine vineyards rarely face the problems of insects, fungi, molds and other grape diseases that affect vineyards in other countries. This permits cultivating with little or no pesticides, allowing even organic wines to be easily produced.
Argentina, like Chile, is unique in the wine world for the absence of the phylloxera threat that has devastated vineyards across the globe. Unlike Chile, the phylloxera louse is present in Argentina but is a particular weak biotype that doesn't survive long in the soil. Because of this most of the vineyards in Argentina are planted on ungrafted rootstock.

Mendoza

Mendoza is the leading producer of wine in Argentina. The vineyard acreage in Mendoza alone is slightly less than half of the entire planted acreage in the US and more than the acreage of New Zealand and Australia combined. Located in the shadow of Mount Aconcagua, the average vineyards in Mendoza are planted at altitudes of 1,970-3,610 feet (600-1,100 meters) above sea level. The soil of the region is sandy and alluvial on top of clay substructures and the climate is continental with four distinct seasons that affect the grapevine, including winter dormancy.

Grape varieties

There are many different varieties of grapes cultivated in Argentina, reflecting her many immigrant groups. The French brought Malbec, which makes most of Argentina's best known wines. The backbone of the early Argentine wine industry were the high yielding, pink skin grapes Cereza, Criolla Chica and Criolla Grande which still account for nearly 30% of all vines planted in Argentina today.

While the historic birthplace of Malbec is Cahors in France, it is in Argentina where the grape receives most of its attention. The grape clusters of Argentine Malbec are different from its French relatives; they have smaller berries in tighter, smaller clusters.

Achaval-Ferrer

Achaval-Ferrer is a small winery, committed to the production of limited quantities of top red wines. Achával Ferrer is arguably Argentina's first "cult" winery, commanding prices in excess of $100 a bottle in both the U.S. and Argentina. They export 85% of their production, 40% to the USA.

The vineyards are located in the province of Mendoza. The region’s desert climate and soil conditions are ideal for the development of Malbec and other red varieties. Low yields, significant thermal gradients (warm days, cool nights), poor alluvial soils, low rainfall, high altitude and the pure Andes irrigation water, all work together to mature grapes that can be transformed into complex, deep and structured wines.

Picture: The Vineyards of Achaval-Ferrer with the Andes in the Background

A group of Argentinean and Italian friends started this adventure in 1998.Santiago Achaval and Manuel Ferrer are the Argentinean partners. The Italian partners are Roberto Cipresso, (the winemaker), and Tiziano Siviero. Both Italians also own La Fiorita Winery in Montalcino. The other key people in the company are Diego Rosso (Vineyard and Winery Operations), and Marcelo Victoria (Sales), who I had the pleasure to meet in Washington DC.

Achaval Ferrer’s Quimera blend has an average yield of 18 hectoliters per hectare. The Finca Altamira single-vineyard Malbec has a yield of 12 hectoliters per hectare. Achaval Ferrer harvests only until mid-morning for the grapes to be very cool when they arrive in the winery. They do severe triage both on the grape bunches before desteming and on the grapes themselves after desteming, to assure that only the best go into our tanks. After fermentation (7 to 10 days), the wine is pressed and barrel-aged. Achaval Ferrer uses 95% French oak (Taransaud) and 5 % American oak (Canton). The wines stay in barrel until the winemaker decides they have the appropriate balance. No formulas or rigid time frames, just tasting. Achaval Ferrer bottles without fining or filtering, to preserve aromas and flavors. Achaval-Ferrer holds the honor of being the first Argentine winery to receive a score of 96 in Wine Spectator magazine.

What Marcelo Victor Poured

2008 Malbec, 91 WS, $22.99

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, delicious, pour purple fruit develops on the nose, a full-bodied wine, raspberry and pastis notes on the palate, long finish.

2007 Quimera, 92 WA, 91 WS, $36.99Tasting notes: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot, interestingly, the blend occurs before racking into barrels, of which 40% are new (10% American oak and 90% French oak), ruby in the glass, attack of blackcurrant and ripe plums on the nose, a full-bodied wine, good structure, subtle herby complexity and some minerality on the palate with a smooth finish.

2007 Finca Mirador Malbec, 94 WA, 94 WS, $107.99

Tasting notes: good full ruby in the glass, attack of wet stone, toast and blackberry on the nose, a full-bodied wine, outstanding concentration, impeccable balance, long, mouthwatering finish.

2007 Finca Altamira Malbec, 95+ WA, 95 WS, $107.99

Tasting notes: good full ruby in the glass, the nose displays sweet fruit with a savoury, herbal edge, a full-bodied wine, the palate is lush and intensely concentrated with good acidity and a bit of minerality, a delicious wine.

Henri Lurton and his Château Brane-Cantenac Wines

Picture: Henri Lurton and Christian G.E.Schiller

I had the pleasure of meeting Henri Lurton, owner of and winemaker at Chateau Brane-Cantenac, at MacArthur’s Wine and Beverages in Washington DC in April 2010.

Château Brane-Cantenac

Château Brane-Cantenac is a Deuxieme Grand Cru  Classe en 1855 winery in Margaux. In the early 20th century the vineyard lost much of its reputation. In 1922 it was acquired by the Lurton family. In 1992 control passed to Henri Lurton, whom I met.

Picture: Map of Bordeaux

Brane-Cantenac’s vineyard totals 94 hectares (230 acres). Production is 30,000 cases. The grape varieties cultivated are 62.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 0.5 Carmenère. Brane-Cantenac makes in addition to its Grand vin, the second wine Baron de Brane, an additional label named Château Notton using grapes from the Notton vineyard, a plot acquired from Château d'Angludet, and a generic Margaux wine with grapes sourced from young vineyards.

Henri Lurton and the Lurton Family

The Lurtons are one of Bordeaux's great wine dynasties. With some 3,000 acres in the region, they are collectively Bordeaux's largest holder of wine-producing land. The family members own more than 20 Châteaux and manage several well known properties. They are also active in the New World and the South of France.

The Lurton family is not some centuries-old French aristocratic dynasty. They are new-comers. It all began in the 1920s with Léonce Récapet, who was a prosperous distiller and vineyard owner in the Entre Deux Mers region. His daughter married François Lurton. Their 4 children took wine making seriously and between them began to build an empire. Lucien and André, in particular, acquired wine estates that were in a bad shape and brought them back on track.

I used to buy the Chateau Bonnet of Andre Lurton, when I was a student in Mainz, Germany; it is a good quality AOC Bordeaux at a very reasonable price. Andre is still running his business, while Lucien has handed over the 11 estates that he had gradually acquired to his 10 children: Châteaux Brane Cantenac, Haut Nouchet, Château Climens, Durfort Vivens, Camarsac, Tour de Bessan, Bouscaut, Duplessis, Desmirail, Villegeorge and Doisy Dubroca. In addition, other family members are flying winemakers and manage wineries. Pierre Lurton is chief executive at Cheval Blanc.

Here is an interesting chart about the holdings of the Lurton family.

Bordeaux and its Classifications

There are four different classifications of Bordeaux, covering different parts of the region:

(1) The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855, covering (with one exception) red wines of Médoc, and sweet wines of Sauternes-Barsac. Château Brane-Cantenac is a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 winery in Margaux.

The 1855 classification system was made at the request of Emperor Napoleon III for the Exposition Universelle de Paris. It ranked the wines into five categories mainly according to price.

The first growths are:

• Château Lafite-Rothschild, in the appellation Pauillac
• Château Margaux, in the appellation Margaux
• Château Latour, in the appellation Pauillac
• Château Haut-Brion, in the appellation Péssac-Leognan
• Château Mouton Rothschild, in the appellation Pauillac, promoted from second to first growth in 1973.

At the same time, the sweet white wines of Sauternes and Barsac were classified into three categories, with only Château d'Yquem being classified as a superior first growth.

(2) The St. Émilion Classification was introduced in 1955, with 3 levels. It is revised every 10 years. The most recent revision is the one of 2006. There are now: 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé, devided into 2 classes 'A' and 'B' (with Château Cheval Blanc and Château Ausone the two top names)and 46 Grand Cru Classé.

Unusually, the St. Emilion 1955 Classification is integrated with the AOC system of St. Emilion, comprising 3 appellations: (1) Appellation St. Emilion Controlee, (2) Appellation St. Emilion Grand Cru Controlee, and (3) Appellation St.Emilion Grand Cru Classee Controlee. This creates a lot of confusion for the non-expert wine drinker. First, the material difference between the first and the second group, the "Controlee" and "Grand Cru Controlee" wines, is minor; over two hundred Saint-Émilion wines carry the description "Grand Cru Controlee", although they are no way at the "Grand Cru", i.e. at the top level. Second, the difference on the label between second and the third group, the "Grand Cru Controlee" and "Grand Cru Classee Controlee", is minor, just the word "Classee", although only the latter are the top wines of the 1955 Classification.

(3) The 1959 Official Classification of Graves, initially classified in 1953 and revised in 1959.

(4) The Cru Bourgeois Classification, which began as an unofficial classification, but came to enjoy official status and was last updated in 2003. However, after various legal turns, the classification was annulled in 2007.

There is no official classification applied to Pomerol. However some Pomerol wines, notably Château Pétrus and Château Le Pin, are often considered as being equivalent to the first growths of the 1855 classification, and often sell for even higher prices.

Finally, Bordeaux has some 57 AOCs in 3 levels. The lowest ranking is the Bordeaux AC, the middle rankings are district wines, like Médoc AC and the highest level are commune wines, like Margaux AC. Bordeaux Supérieur AC indicates that the wine has a bit more alcohol than a Bordeaux AC.

What Henri Lurton Poured

Le Baron de Brane (Margaux) 2008

58% Cabernet Sauvingon, 40% Merlot, 2 % Cabernet Franc

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, nose of pepper and strawberries, medium- to full bodied wine, good structure, black fruits with roasted coffee on the palate, long finish.

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2008

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28%Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, strawberries and vanilla on the nose, a medium- to full-bodied wine, round tannins, with good concentration and a long finish.

Le Baron de Brane (Margaux) 2006

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, appealing on the nose, with ripe dark fruits and some oak, a medium- to full bodied wine, good acidity, cherries on the palate with a gentle layer of ripe tannins, long finish.

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2006

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot

Tasting notes: Ruby in the glass, notes of spices, pepper and sandalwood on the nose, a medium- to full bodied wine, good structure, soft, round, creamy on the palate, with cassis and blackcurrant, has a well balanced character, lingering finish.

Bordeaux in 5 Minutes

If you want to get a quick introduction to Bordeaux, go to Heike Larsson's vinum diligo blog . Also, Chateau Brane Cantenac has a very active Facebook Fan Page.


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One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyards Wines in Washington DC

Picture: Myron Redford and Christian G.E.Schiller

The Eatonville Restaurant in Washington DC welcomed one of Oregon's pioneering Vineyard's from the Williamette region- Amity Vineyards. Founder Myron Redford was there to discuss his award-winning wines as Eatonville paired them with their Southern-inspired cuisine.

Oregon

Amity Vineyards is in the Willamette Valley, were about two-thirds of Oregon’s wineries and vineyards are. Buffered from Pacific storms on the west by the Coast Range, the valley follows the Willamette River north to south for more than a hundred miles from the Columbia River near Portland to just south of Eugene. But Oregon is not only about Willamette Valley. Oregon’s vineyards span the whole State, rising up and falling over the rolling hills and gentle valleys of more than 12,000 acres (4,858 hectares) of wine grapes. Oregon’s major wine regions are the Willamette Valley, Rogue Valley, Umpqua Valley, and the Columbia Gorge. Some regions straddle the border between Oregon and the States of Washington and Idaho.

Picture: Oregon's wine regions

Wine was made in Oregon in the 19th century already, when Italian and Swiss immigrants planted wine grapes and started bottling wine. Oregon's wine industry was suppressed during Prohibition. It wasn’t until1961, when Richard Sommer set up shop in southern Oregon and planted Riesling, that the modern Oregon wine industry was borne. Other pioneers include David Adelsheim, Dick Ponzi and Bill Sokol-Blosser. Then the French also came with Domaine Drouhin bringing European sophistication to Oregon. In the past 40 years, Oregon has become one of the country’s top three wine States, with 350 wineries producing an average of 5,000 cases each a year. Most of it is Pinot Noir, but there’s also Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and modest amounts of Riesling and Merlot.

Oregon produces wine on a much smaller scale than its southern neighbor California. Oregon's biggest producer ships only 125,000 cases per year and most produce under 35,000 cases. The State features many small wineries which produce less than 5,000 cases per year. In contrast, E & J Gallo Winery, the US’ largest winery, produces about 70 million cases annually. The majority of wineries in Oregon operate their own vineyards, although some purchase grapes on the market.

Like New Zealand, Oregon rode the Sideways Pinot Noir boom for several years, expanding vineyard plantings repeatedly. Now the financial crisis has hit the wine industry. Malbec from Argentina and Camenere from Chile are hot and prices are tumbling. As if weak demand and strong competitors weren't enough, the 2009 crop was a big one -- up 23% from 2008. Combined with the unsold inventory from 2008, the State faces its first significant surplus of wine in many years.

Amity Vineyards

Amity is a small family-owned winery in Yamhill County, established in 1976, 45 miles south west of Portland, above the village of Amity. The winery was the first to produce Gamay Noir in Oregon in 1988. Amity Vineyards also produced Oregon’s first sulfite free wine from organically grown grapes in 1990.

Owners: Myron Redford, Janis Checchia and Vikki Wetle; Founder and President: Myron Redford; Winemaker: Darcy Pendergrass; Vineyard Manager: Robert Taylor.Total Acres: 15; Pinot Noir: 7.5 acres; Riesling: 3 acres; Pinot Blanc: 4.5 acres. Average Brix at Harvest by Variety: Pinot Noir: 21.5 – 22; Pinot Blanc: 19.5 - 21.5; Riesling: 19. Winery Production Capacity: 34,000 Gallons. Source of Grapes: Amity Vineyards (Estate Grapes), Sunnyside Vineyards, Bois Jolie, Cattrall, and Crannell-Amity; Schouten Vineyards-Sheridan; Meadow Vineyard. The labels routinely identify the vineyard source for grapes. All the vineyards are located in the northern end of the Willamette Valley, Oregon's main grape growing area.

Amity’s sulfite free wines

Beginning in 1990, Amity introduced ECO-WINE®, Oregon’s first sulfite-free wine from organic grapes. Myron Redford noted that the challenge was to make a wine about which people say, ‘This is good Pinot Noir’, not ‘This is good, for an organic sulfite free Pinot Noir." He was convinced that with good grapes and careful cellar practices Amity could make good Pinot Noir and bottled it without sulfites. In 2006, the T.T.B., the federal agency regulating wine labels, made them change “Sulfite free” to “No Detectable Sulfites”, but as Myron pointed out, the ECO-WINE is still sulfite free. In 2006, Amity expanded the ECO-WINE ® family to include Marechal Foch and Pinot Blanc.

Myron Redford

He is a legend in the Oregon wine industry. With the launch of his Amity Vineyards in 1974, Myron joined a handful of other pioneer wineries in Oregon. Born in 1945 in Utah, Myron spent his growing years in Seattle, Washington, where he lived until moving to Amity, Oregon in 1974. He attended Antioch College in Ohio where he obtained a BA in Political Science in 1968.

Although winemaking runs in his veins (Myron’s great, great uncle owned part of the Mormon Winery in Toqueville, Utah in the late 1800’s), it was a chance placement of diners at the University of Washington Faculty Club in 1970 that led to his winemaking career. In 1974, Myron purchased a small, existing vineyard in Amity, Oregon. The next two years were spent learning farming and preparing for making the first vintage of wine. He built the winery himself in 1976, and has been making wine ever since. He has supplemented his on-the-job training with short courses and seminars at both the University of California at Davis and Oregon State University.

What we ate and drank

Passed Hor D’ouevres

Tuna-Cucumber Tartar on Wonton Chip with Wasabi Crème
Hierloom Tomatoes and Goat Cheese Bruschetta
Prosciutto wrapped Marinated Mozzarella
Smoked Salmon on Potato Crisp with Crème Fraiche and Caviar

Paired with Amity Vineyards Pinot Blanc 2007

100% Pinot Blanc, 13.00% alcohol, Williamette Valley, $ 17

Tasting notes: On the nose, the wine showed pineapple, stone fruits and mineral notes, a full-bodied wine, with good acidity and a round mouth feel on the palate, coupled with flavors of nectarines and pineapple, reminded me of a traditional Alsatian Pinot Blanc.

First Course

Butter Poached Shrimp with Warm Lentil-Green Bean Salad and Truffle Vinaigrette

Paired with Amity Dry Gewuerztraminer, 2007

Willamette Valley, Alcohol: 13.50%, 100% Gewuztraminer, $ 20.00

Tasting notes: This wine smells and tastes like a traditional Alsatian Dry Gewürztraminer with aromas of lime, flint, pear and spice, on the palate the wine exhibits flavors of lime zest and lychee that leads to a spicy finish.

Second Course

Ancho Crusted Rack of Lamb with Chive Parmesan Whipped Potatoes Blackberry Gastrique and Balsamic Reduction

Paired with Amity Winemakers Reserve Pinot Noir 2007

Willamette Valley, Alcohol: 14.00%, 100% Pinot Noir,

Tasting notes: Light red in the glass, raspberry and tobacco notes on the nose, well structured and elegant, aromas of black cherry, currant, and pomegranate combined with subtle notes of cocoa and sandalwood on the palate, finishes with grace, a feminine wine.

Dessert

Lemon Mousse in Phyllo Cup with Fresh Berries

Paired with Amity Wedding Dance Riesling 2008

Willamette Valley, Alcohol: 10.50%, 100% Riesling, $17.00

The wine had a noticeable sweetness. How was this achieved? Myron explained that this was done by following the practice of the Mosel winemakers in Germany. They cool the fermenting must down so that the fermentation stops and not all sugar in the grape is converted into alcohol. What you get is a sweet wine with a low alcohol level.

Tasting notes: The 2007 Wedding Dance Riesling shows both aromas and flavors consisting of lime and lemon zest, honeysuckle, minerality notes of wet rock and flint, with hints of rose and petrol, a well balanced wine.

Picture: Myron Redford with Eatonville's Chef Rusty Holman


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The Wines of Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley

Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

Picture: Dennis Cakebread and Christian G.E.Schiller

Picture: Gary Gondelman, Chef Driss Zahidi and Christian G.E.Schiller

My down-the-road bistro when I am in McLean, Virginia - EVO Bistro - was the site of a fun vintner dinner hosted by Dennis Cakebread. Chef Driss Zahidi of EVO offered a delectable menu paired with the fabulous Cakebread Cellars wines. Gary Gondelman from Kobrand Corporation led skillfully through a very enjoyable evening. Kobrand Corporation is a marketer of fine wines and spirits, such as Cakebread Cellars; in addition, the firm owns many of the brands in its portfolio.

Cakebread Cellars is a small producer of top wines in the Napa valley, where America’s finest wines come from.

American Wine

The US is the fourth largest wine producing country in the world following France, Italy, and Spain. The US has produced wine for over 300 years. It is the home of several native species of grape, but it was the introduction of the European Vitis vinifera that led to the growth of the American wine industry. Today, all 50 States make wine, although not all States grow their own fruit.

California

California accounts for nearly 90 percent of the American wine production. Here are the main wine regions:

Picture: The Wine Regions of California

The first wineries were established by missioneries in the South of California. The Gold Rush in the mid-19th century brought waves of new settlers to California. The wine industry moved to the northern parts of California and took hold in the Sonoma and Napa regions. The late 19th century saw the advent of the phylloxera epidemic which had already ravaged European vineyards. Fortunately the remedy of grafting resistant American rootstock was well known and the Californian wine industry was able to survive. At the turn of the 20th century, nearly 800 wineries existed in California and worldwide recognition seemed imminent, when Prohibition hit the industry in 1920. By the time that Prohibition was repealed in 1933 under President Franklin Roosevelt, only 140 wineries were still operating in California.

Californian re-entered the international stage at the 1976 Judgment of Paris wine competition, when Californian wines beat out French wines in both red and white wine categories. Today, there are more than 1,200 wineries in the State, ranging from small boutique wineries to large corporations. In general, by German or French standards, American wineries are large.

Napa Valley

Napa Valley is widely considered to be the top wine region in America and one of the best in the world. By the end of the 19th century there were already more than 140 wineries in the area. Of those original wineries several still exist today including Charles Krug Winery, Chateau Montelena and Beringer. In 1965, Napa Valley icon Robert Mondavi broke away from his family's Charles Krug Estate to found his own. This was the first new large scale winery to be established in the valley since Prohibition. In addition to large scale wineries, Napa Valley's boutique wineries produce some of the world's best wines. Today Napa Valley features more than 300 wineries.

Cakebread Cellars is one of the smaller, fine wineries in Napa valley, founded by Jack Cakebread, just a few miles north of Robert Mondavi. At age 43, Jack Cakebread embarked on a new career, winemaking, when he bought the Rutherford ranch from family friends. His first pursuits were on his family's orchard ranch and as partner with his father in Cakebread's Garage. While in the Air Force in North Africa, he developed an interest in photography. He undertook photographic studies under the master of landscape, Ansel Adams, and established Cakebread Photography. A 14-year photographic career followed, pursued simultaneously with the family auto repair business.

Picture: Gary Gondelman and Dennis Cakebread

To Cakebread Cellar's original 22 acres, an additional 12, adjacent to the original property, were added in 1982. In 1985, 11 more acres in the Rutherford area were acquired. In 1987, the purchase of the 25-acre River Ranch brought total acreage to 75, all of which in the Rutherford appellation. In 1999, an acquisition added substantial vineyard acreage on Howell Mountain. In addition, Cakebread draws on 400 acres of vineyards over which the Cakebreads exercise full control.

Dennis Cakebread

Dennis Cakebread is a UC Berkeley graduate. He started his working career doing audits at banks. He ended his banking career as an EVP/CFO before starting work at his family winery in 1987. He is now a co-owner and SVP Sales and Marketing.

EVO Bistro

EVO Bistro is both my down-the-road Wine Bar in McLean, Virginia, and my favorite Restaurant and Bistro in the Washington DC area. It combines an unpretentious French-Mediterranean atmosphere with top wines from around the world, both the old and the new world, and delicious French, Moroccan and Spanish tapas, prepared by Chef Driss Zahidi, who I know from the days of the tiny Corner Bistro on Old Dominion.

Picture: Chef Driss Zahidi and Christian G.E.Schiller

Picture: Zakaria Echchami

One thing I like in particular is the automated wine tasting station, in the picture behind Driss Zahidi and me, where you can serve yourself from a range of about 40 wines. You pick a glass, select a wine, place your glass under the spout corresponding with the wine you want to enjoy, press a button, and out comes a perfectly-metered one, three or five ounce pour. EVO's eno-system always includes a couple of top wines that cost several hundreds of dollars a bottle; at one or three ounces, they become affordable.

What Dennis Cakebread and Chef Driss Zahidi Served

Passed hors d'oeuvre

Mini crab cakes with lemon aioli
Ahi Tuna in mini fillo cups
Scallops, sesame seeds & passion fruit

2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley

Technical notes: Grape variety: 100% Chardonnay; Alcoholic Content: 14.5%; Vineyards: 100% Napa Valley; Total Acidity: 0.63g/100ml; pH: 3.65; Harvest Dates: September 4 - October 1, 2008; Fermentation: 92% French Oak & 8% stainless steel; no Malolactic; Barrel-aging: 8 months in French oak, 36% new, with periodic stirring of the lees.

Winemaking notes: After night-harvesting and whole-cluster-pressing the grapes, 92% of the juice was fermented in French oak barrels and 8% in stainless steel tanks. Because the 2008 vintage produced fruit with tremendous varietal intensity and exceptionally well-balanced flavors, the only winemaking intervention required was to select the right barrels to highlight the wine’s lovely natural attributes. The Chardonnay spent eight months aging in French oaks barrels, 36% new, with periodic stirring of the yeast lees to further enrich texture and flavor.

Tasting notes: medium gold in the glass, butter, green apple and spices on the nose, a medium- to full-bodied wined, moderate acidity, creamy, not too oaky, ripe apple and pear flavors on the palate, long, crisp, finish, an elegant California Chardonnay.

First Course

Blue Point Oyster trio; Raw with pomegranate sorbet,
fried with Crabmeat & blood orange aioli,
Baked with Orgonzola blue cheese

2008 Sauvignon Blanc

Technical notes: Grape variety: 90% Sauvignon Blanc 6% Semillon 4% Sauvignon Musque; Alcoholic Content: 14.4%; Total Acidity: 0.62g/100ml; pH: 3.43; Harvest Dates: 8/12/2008 through 9/15/2008; Fermentation: 82% Stainless Steel, 18% French Oak; Barrel-aging: 85% Aged 5 months in French Oak.

Winemaking: The Sauvignon Blanc grapes were night-harvested at cool temperatures to preserve their fresh, vibrant flavors and achieve an ideal balance of sugar and acidity. After the grapes arrived at the winery, the whole clusters were immediately pressed to maximize varietal character while minimizing the extraction of astringent compounds from the skins. In 2008, 67% of the juice was tank-fermented and aged in neutral French oak barrels; 18% was fermented and aged in barrel; and 15% was tank-fermented with no oak aging.

Tasting notes: medium gold in the glass, attack of ripe pomelo, pineapple, melon and apple on the nose, a medium- to full-bodied wine, good structure, grapefruit and kiwi on the palate, long finish. A dry, crisp and fruity wine that paired very well with the wonderful trio of Oysters prepared by Chef Driss Zahidi. More on Oysters and Wine here.

Second Course

100% all natural quail breast wrapped in apple wood smoked bacon,
fresh foie gras, vanilla sea salt and black berry sauce

2007 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley

Technical notes: Grape Variety: 100% Pinot Noir; Alcohol Content: 14.9%; Appellations: 100% Estate Anderson Valley; Total Acidity: 0.55g/100ml; Harvest dates: September 18-27, 2007; pH: 3.68; Barrel Aging: 15 months in French oak, 45% new.

Winemaking: Each of the six Anderson Valley Pinot Noir clones were fermented separately to optimize their distinctive personalities, using a proportion of native yeasts from the vineyard (22% in 2007) to foster additional complexity. Prior to fermentation, each lot received a three-day cold soak to gently extract color and tannin while accentuating Pinot Noir’s fruit-forward personality. In true Burgundian fashion, the juice fermented in open-top tanks with gentle, manual punch-downs of the cap. Once fermentation was completed, the wines macerated on the skins for another two weeks, with daily assessments of color and tannin development. After draining the wines from the skins, they were transferred to French oak barrels, 40% new. The component wines were blended in the spring, 2008 and the blend was barrel-aged for another seven months.

Tasting notes: light ruby in the glass, a shower of lovely floral notes on the nose combined with notes of black cherry, earth and chocolate, a full-bodied wine, good acidity with seamlessly integrated tannins and dark berry, plum and currant fruit on the palate, long, chocolate-y finish, a feminine wine.

Third Course

Wagyu beef with Morel mushrooms, grilled pineapple,
Moroccan couscous and truffle sauce

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

Technical notes: Grape Variety: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon 16% Merlot 4% Cabernet Franc 2% Malbec; Vineyards: Napa Valley; Alcohol content: 14.2%; Harvest dates: October 3 through 27, 2006; Total acidity: 0.65g/100ml; Fermentation: Stainless Steel; pH: 3.71; Barrel aging: 20 months in French oak, 35% new.

Winemaking: After crushing and cold-soaking the grapes for 24-36 hours to enhance extraction, the juice from each vineyard lot was fermented separately in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, at warm temperatures, to fully extract color and flavor. Typically, fermentation completes in seven days, with the new wines left to macerate on the skins up to three additional weeks to maximize color and flavor extraction. Cool years like 2006, however, can result in Cabernet Sauvignons with elevated tannins; so evolving tannin levels were closely monitored during fermentation, using both quantitative and sensory analysis to determine the optimum maceration time for each lot. In 2006, each component of our Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon aged six months in French oak barrels, 35% new, with the lots chosen for the final blend aged another 14 months in barrel before bottling in July, 2008.

Tasting notes: clear purple red in the glass, attack of cassis, blackberry and boysenberry coupled with cedar, black tea and sweet oak scents on the nose, a big, concentrated wine, good structure, black fruit and lots of black pepper with hints of black tea on the palate, long, savory finish.

Fourth Course

Poached pear in red wine with raspberry sorbet and chocolate sauce

2006 Zinfandel, Red HIll, Lake County

Technical notes: Grape Variety: 100% Zinfandel; Alcohol Content: 14.7%; Vineyards: Red Hills - Lake County; Total Acidity: 0.61g/100ml Harvest dates: September 1- 7, 2006; pH: 3.84; Fermentation: stainless steel tanks; Barrel Aging: 15 months new & seasoned French oak barrels.

Winemaking: Each of our three Zinfandel clones at Snow’s Lake was harvested and fermented separately. After a short, warm fermentation in stainless steel tanks to fully extract color, flavor and tannins, the wines remained on the skins for another two weeks to further enhance color and flavor extraction while softening tannins. After pressing the wines off the skins, the lots were transferred to French oak barrels, 37% new, where they aged before the final blend was assembled in May, 2007. The wine then aged another eight months in barrel before bottling in January, 2008.

Tasting notes: dark red in the glass with never ending legs, a lavish nose of black plum and blackberry fruit with licorice and vanilla notes, a full-bodied intense wine, smooth tannins, chocolate and black pepper notes on the palate, hot finish.

EVO Bistro, McLean, Virginia
http://www.evobistro.com/

Cakebread Cellars, Napa Valley
http://www.cakebread.com/

Kobrand Corporation, New York
www.kobrandwine.com



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Oysters and Wine

In the Glass: A 2007 Sylvaner trocken "Vom Langen Sterk" from Michael Teschke, Rheinhessen, Germany

The Wines of Domaine de la Solitude, Chateauneuf du Pape, France

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In the Glass: 2007 Rheinhessen with Oysters at the Ten Bells in the Lower East Side in Manhattan

Sylvain Bzikot's Puligny-Montrachet, Bourgogne, France

Picture: Sylvain Bzikot and Christian G.E.Schiller

Sylvain Bzikot from Puligny-Montrachet in the Bourgogne, France visited the US East Coast for about a week. I met him and and his importer, Olivier Daubresse, and tried his wines, including his Premier Cru wines at Cecile’s in McLean, Virginia.

Bourgogne

The Bourgogne is one of the most famous wine regions in the world. Most of the wine produced here is Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.Chablis and Beaujolais are formally part of Burgundy wine region, but wines from those subregions are usually referred to by their own names.

Picture: Wine regions of France

Some way south of Chablis is the Côte d'Or, where Burgundy's most famous wines originate. All Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy (except for Chablis Grand Cru) are here. The Côte d'Or is split into two parts: the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune in the south. The wine-growing area is just 40 kilometres long, and in most places less than 2 kilometres wide; the area is made up of tiny villages. Further south is the Côte Chalonnaise, where a mix of mostly red and white wines are produced. Below the Côte Chalonnaise is the Mâconnais region, known for producing easy-drinking and more affordable white wine. Further south again is the Beaujolais region. The Bourgogne (including Chablis but excluding Beaujolais) covers a total of 28,000 hectares. Côte d'Or covers 8,000 hectares.

Picture: The Bourgogne

Monks and monasteries of the Roman Catholic Church had an important influence on the history of Burgundy wine. As the power of the church decreased, many vineyards which had been in the church's hands, were sold to the bourgeoisie from the 17th century. The Napoleonic inheritance laws resulted in the continued subdivision of the most precious vineyard holdings, so that some growers hold only a row or two of vines. Clos Vougeot, for example, which was a single 125 acre run by the monks, today is parceled into plots owned by nearly 80 different owners. This led to the emergence of négociants who aggregate the produce of many growers to produce a single wine. Négociants play a vital role in the Bourgogne, ranging from simple labelling and distribution, to carrying out the entire wine-making process. Négociants may supply wines at all quality levels, including Grand Cru.

Bourgogne Classification

Burgundy is the most terroir-oriented region in France. Immense attention is paid to the area of origin, as opposed to Bordeaux, where classifications are producer-driven and awarded to individual chateaux. A specific vineyard or region will bear a given classification, regardless of the wine's producer. The main levels in the Burgundy classifications, in descending order of quality, are:

Grand Cru wines are produced from a small number of vineyards in the Côte d'Or and make up 2% of the production at 35 hectoliters per hectare. The origins of Burgundy's Grand crus can be found in the work of the Cistercians who, among their vast land holdings, were able to delineate and isolate plots of land that produced wine of distinct character. There are 33 Grand Cru vineyards in the Bourgogne.

Premier Cru wines are produced from specific vineyards that are considered to be of high, but slightly lower quality; they make up 12% of production at 45 hectoliters/hectare.

Village appellation wines are produced from vineyard sites within the boundaries of one of 42 villages. Village wines make up 36% of production at 50 hectoliters/hectare.

Regional appellation wines are wines which are allowed to be produced over the entire region, or over an area significantly larger than that of an individual village. These appellations can be divided into three groups:

AOC Bourgogne, the standard appellation for wines made anywhere throughout the region; these wines may be produced at 55 hectoliters/hectare.

Subregional appellations cover a part of Burgundy larger than a village. Examples are Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and Mâcon-Villages.

Wines of specific styles or other grape varieties include white Bourgogne Aligoté (which is primarily made with the Aligoté grape), red Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains (which can contain up to two thirds Gamay) and sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne.

Puligny-Montrachet

Puligny-Montrachet is in the Cote de Beaune part of the Cote d’Or, situated six miles south of Beaune. It is a small village with a population of 400 people only. Puligny-Montrachet is among the finest wine-producing villages in the world, if not the finest when it comes to white wine.

Picture: Cote de Beaune

There are a total of four grand crus (whole or in part) in Puligny-Montrachet.

Montrachet – shared with with the neighbouring Chassagne-Montrachet
Area under production: 8.00 ha; average annual yield: 310 hl; about 2500 cases.

Batard-Montrachet – shared with with the neighbouring Chassagne-Montrachet
Area under production: 11.83 ha; average annual yield: 530 hl; about 4200 cases.

Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet
Area under production: 3.69 ha; average annual yield: 172 hl; about 1000 cases.

Chevalier-Montrachet
Area under production: 7.47ha; average annual yield: 327 hl; about 2000 cases

In addition, there are 23 premier crus in whole or in part in Puligny-Montrachet: Sous le Puits, La Garenne, Hameau de Blagny, La Truffière, Champ Gain, Les Chalumaux, Champ Canet, Clos de la Garenne, Les Folatières, Le Cailleret, Les Demoiselles, Les Pucelles, Clavaillon, Les Perrières, Clos de la Mouchère, Les Combettes,Les Referts.

Domaine Bzikot Pere et Fils

I was able to converse in French with Sylvain Bzikot. He is a very funny and entertaining guy. His English is almost non-existant. Also, the Domaine has no web site, which is not unusual in France. The Domaine Bzikot owns land in two premier cru vineyards.

What Sylvain poured

Bzikot Bourgogne Blanc 2008

Tasting notes: unwooded Chardonnay, on the nose the wine shows scents of green apple skin, wet rocks and lime, in the mouth fresh and vibrant, with just a bit of butter and nut character, round and very accessible.

Bzikot Puligny-Montrachet 2007

Tasting notes: the wine has a lovely perfume of green apples, fresh butter, hazelnuts and limestone, a full-bodied wine, on the palate, very rich with good acidity, loaded with mineral and citrus fruit, lasting finish, a classic village AOC.

Bzikot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 2007

Tasting notes: The nose opens up nicely with air, limestone, apple, chalk, a full-bodied,a full-bodied, complex wine, the palate is round and shows good richness and acidity, a wave of apple and ripe green melon flavors, coupled with notes of butter and nut elements, the finish is long and mouthwatering, a 100% Chardonnay from one of the finest vineyards in the Cote de Beaune.

Bzikot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2007

Tasting notes: A wonderful nose of chalk, lime and apple, a full-bodied wine, on the palate good acidity with melon notes and hints of nuts and fresh butter, a long mouthwatering finish of apple, limestone and nuts, another fine wine from a very fine vineyard.

Bzikot Bourgogne Rouge 2005

Tasting notes: A Bourgogne ordinaire, light in color in the glass, a lovely fruity nose with ripe cherry and strawberry notes, a vibrant structure and good acidity, plenty of earthy aromas and wet stone notes on the palate, long finish, a classic Bourgogne Rouge AOC.

Cecile's Wine Cellar, McLean, Virginia
http://www.cecileswine.com/


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The Wines of Chateau La Caminade in the Cahors, France - Malbec from its Birthplace

Picture: Dominique Resses and Christian G.E.Schiller

Importer Ed Addiss, owner of Wine Traditions, was joined by Dominique Resses from Cahors at a wine tasting on April 17 at Rick’s Wine and Gourmet in Alexandria, Virginia.

The South West of France

The South West is a wine region in France covering several wine-producing areas situated respectively inland from, and south of, the wine region of Bordeaux. These areas, which have a total of 16,000 hectares of vineyards, consist of several discontinuous wine islands. The brandy-producing region Armagnac is situated within the Gascony, one of the wine islands.

Even though Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc are grown in certain parts, the South West remains first and foremost a veritable mosaic of ancient grape varieties, unique to the region, including the red grape varieties Négrette, Duras, Tannat (now also the signature grape of Uruguy), Malbec (now also the signature grape of Argentina) and the white grape varities Colombard (at some point very popular in the US), Mauzac, Manseng, Courbu and Baroque.

Picture: The Wine Regions of the South West of France

The South West of France is also known for a its delicious regional cuisine: Foie gras, Jambon de Bayonne and Cassoulet, to name a few.

There are 18 AOCs, 20 Vins de Pays, with the following the best known appellations, from the south-west up to the north-east:

• The Pyrenean Piedmont: Irouléguy, Jurançon
• The Gascogne Basin: Côtes de Gascogne, Madiran, Saint Mont
• The Garonne Basin: Gaillac, Fronton, Côtes du Brulhois
• The Lot Valley: Cahors
• The Aveyron: Marcillac

Cahors

Cahors wines have a long history. The wine industry was developed by the Romans, who planted vines in Cahors even before they got to Bordeaux. The “ black wine” of Cahors reached its heyday in the Middle Ages, when they were on the table at the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine with Henry II of England in 1152. But Bordelais winemakers saw the Cahors wines as a competitor to their own wines and introduced taxes and levies that hindered Cahors’ export out of Bordeaux, and, in turn, its reputation. In addition, in the late-19th century, phylloxera nearly destroyed the wine business in Cahors. The vines recovered eventually. Things looked pretty bleak until 1971, when Cahors achieved AOC status.

The dominant grape variety in AOC Cahors wines is Malbec, which must make up a minimum of 70% of the wine, with Merlot and Tannat making up the rest. Cahors wines are notoriously tannic when young, benefiting greatly from aging.

Malbec, Cahors and Argentina

Cahors is the birthplace of Malbec. Yet, in America, if you know Malbec, it is probably because of its transfer to Argentina in the late 19th century. Argentinian Malbec is very popular in the US now and Cahors tries to piggyback on the popularity of Argentine Malbec in the U.S. The Cahors region is waving its flag and reminding people that Malbec came from somewhere else before it hit Argentina, and that Cahors would like some attention. Some producers, including Dominique Resses, are even starting to put the word "Malbec" on their labels.

La Caminade

This estate has been around since well before the French Revolution, resting in the hands first of the clergy and then, since 1895, in the hands of the Resses family. The Resses family, with others, has been instrumental since the 1950s in the rebirth of Cahors as a major wine-producing region.

What we tasted

2007 Mission La Caminade Cahors $9.99

Tasting notes: Medium garnet in the glass, smoked meats coupled with cassis and black cherry on the nose, a medium-bodied wine, in the mouth the wine has a supple leathery quality, with some stony minerality that gives way to more cassis and black cherry notes with a dusty finish.

2006 Château La Caminade "La Commandery" $19.99

97% Malbec and 3% Tannat; leafs are thinned and yield is limited to a maximum of 40 hectolitres per hectare; and grapes are 100% destalked and sorted fallowed by a long maceration and maturation in oak barrels of which 50% are new each year.

Tasting notes: dark red in the glass, hints of stones and smoke with black cherries and cassis on the nose, a full-bodied wine, with nuances of damp earth, black currant, smoke and licorice on the palate,”La Commandery” is a textbook Cahors.

Chateau La Caminade, Cahors, France
http://www.chateau-caminade.com/

Rick’s Wine and Gourmet, Alexandria, US
http://www.rickswine.com/

Wine Traditions
3604 Ridgeway Ter
Falls Church, VA 22044-1308
Phone: (703) 333-2853

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In the Glass: Pinot Noir from France, Germany and California

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Wine Bar: Paris - Le Petite Monceau, Willi's Wine Bar and Lavinia

The Wines of Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley, US

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dan Duckhorn

The Wines of Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley, US

At Pearson's in Washington DC, I had the pleasure of participating in a Duckhorn Vineyards tasting with Owner and Founder Dan Duckhorn.

Duckhorn Vineyards

Duckhorn Vineyards is a 20.000 cases winery based in St. Helena, California. Margaret and Dan Duckhorn started Duckhorn Vineyards in 1976 with eight investors. Though they have often made outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon, they are best known for Merlot, a variety that they helped pioneer in Napa Valley. In 2007, GI Partners, a private equity firm, purchased a controlling interest in Duckhorn Wine Company at a valuation believed to exceed $250 million.

Today, along with its three production facilities, Duckhorn comprises seven vineyards comprising 168 acres in Napa and four vineyards totaling 153 acres in Anderson Valley. The Napa properties are located in five different appellations: the (proposed) Calistoga AVA, Howell Mountain, St. Helena, Yountville and Napa Valley. In addition to the Duckhorn, Paraduxx and Goldeneye brands, the company also has two second labels: Decoy, which uses fruit not included in Duckhorn; and Migration, made with grapes from the Anderson Valley properties. Prices for the brands range from about $30 for Decoy up to $95 for single-vineyard Duckhorn Cabernets. The company currently has 75 employees.

Dan Duckhorn

For over thirty years, Dan Duckhorn has been a leader in the Napa Valley wine community. A native of northern California, Dan earned his Masters in Business Administration in 1962 from the University of California at Berkeley. In 1976, Dan and his wife Margaret co-founded Duckhorn Vineyards with a small group of friends. Influenced by what he had learned on a journey to France, Dan decided that the Napa Valley was ideal for the cultivation of Bordeaux varietals. Going against the grain of what other local producers were doing, Dan decided against producing Chardonnay. Instead, he made the decision to focus his passion and resources on the production of a world-class Napa Valley Merlot. Though many other wineries were using Merlot as a blending grape, Dan pioneered the crafting of a premium stand-alone Napa Valley Merlot. Dubbed "Mr. Merlot" by Frank Prial of the New York Times, Dan is a highly respected leader in the wine industry.

The Wines we Tasted

DUCKHORN DECOY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009

Winery Notes: "Since 1982, Duckhorn Vineyards has been crafting a Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc that has become a benchmark for the varietal in North America. Expanding on this rich winemaking tradition, Decoy Sauvignon Blanc allows our winemaking team the opportunity to explore a different expression of Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Made using grapes from top independent growers, our Decoy Sauvignon Blanc is fermented exclusively in stainless steel to preserve its lively aromas and bright flavors. The result is an enticing wine that highlights vibrant citrus and lemongrass layers." $20

DUCKHORN DECOY PINOT NOIR 2008

Winery Notes: "Building on the traditions established by our acclaimed Goldeneye and Migration Pinot Noirs, Decoy Pinot Noir continues Duckhorn Wine Company's exploration of the depth and diversity of Anderson Valley winegrowing. Decoy Pinot Noir allows our winemaking team to highlight a distinctly plush and approachable expression of Pinot Noir that is crafted for more youthful enjoyment. The resulting wine offers bright red-fruit flavors of Bing cherry, raspberry and cranberry, alongside hints of toasty oak." $30

DUCKHORN DECOY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007

Winery Notes: "This appealing Napa Valley bottling highlights the complexity of the Cabernet Sauvignon varietal. Since 1978, Duckhorn Vineyards has been producing Cabernet Sauvignon that embodies the flavorful complexity of Napa Valley winegrowing and offers classic Cabernet elements of currant, cherry, plum and olive." $30

DUCKHORN DECOY ZINFANDEL 2008

Winery Notes: "Our Paraduxx winemaking team has been crafting a world-class red blend using Napa Valley Zinfandel since 1994. Decoy Zinfandel allows us to explore this robust and appealing grape as a stand-alone wine. It offers the concentration and complexity that has made the Napa Valley famous, while highlighting classic Zinfandel elements of raspberry, strawberry jam, white pepper, cedar and spice." $30

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006

Winery Notes: "A complex blend of grapes from the greater Napa Valley and seven of its acclaimed appellations, this wine also incorporates a significant amount of fruit from our Estate vineyards. The result is a wine that strikes an effortless balance between dark fruit, oak and tannins. Classic Cabernet elements of black currant, dark cherry, plum and raspberry are accentuated by more subtle layers of mint and black olive. Though a big, structured and age-worthy wine, the tannins are beginning to soften, framing both the fruit and the oak-inspired vanilla and cocoa notes." Wine Spectator 91 points. $70

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS HOWELL MOUNTAIN MERLOT 2004

Winery Notes: "In 1880 the St. Helena Star contended that Howell Mountain "would be to California what Medoc is to France." In 1983, Howell Mountain was approved as a viticulture appellation, confirming what the turn-of-the-century growers already knew about the uniqueness of the region. We believe that this wine will be the Medoc of our portfolio. This is a well-balanced wine with medium weight, beautiful texture, bright acid, and integrated, supple tannins. The aroma is elegant, with elements of earth, black cherry, vanilla and clove, accompanied by a slightly meaty character. On the palate, the wine is layered with rich fruit flavors, most notably blueberry, blackberry, and plum, and accented by subtle notes of lavender and sage." Wine Enthusiast 90 points $80

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS THREE PALMS VINEYARD MERLOT 2006

Winery Notes: "Three Palms Vineyard is legendary in the world of California Merlot and for good reason. A hot site with free-draining soils, Three Palms consistently delivers focused red fruit flavors balanced by an austere minerality, which contributes to elegant aging potential. The 2006 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot delivers all the vibrant fruit one would expect, with layers of red currant, raspberry and black cherry underscored by elements of piecrust, strawberry, caramel and wet stone. The tannins are dry and elegant, leading to a long, jammy finish." $90

GOLDENEYE GOWAN CREEK VINEYARD 2006

Winery Notes: "Gowan Creek is the home to our new winery and offers a perfect mid-valley winegrowing location that combines warmer Anderson Valley elements with coastal fog and cooling influences from the northern end of the valley. As a result, this wine is a classic expression of Pinot Noir, with signature aromatics, lush extraction and rich texture. The nose displays the wild blueberry and blackberry layers that have come to define Gowan Creek, supported by notes of loganberry, char, black pepper and dried meats. On the palate, the attack is immense, the tannins long and the acidity persistent, all combining to create a wine with sumptuous, dark- fruit-driven complexity." Wine Enthusiast 94 points $90

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley
http://www.duckhorn.com/DuckhornDNN/

Pearson’s, Washington DC
http://www.pearsonswine.com/




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