The Steep-Slope Wines from the Mittelrhein: Tasting at Collegium Vini with 4 Producers - Wine Estates Matthias Müller, Toni Jost, Philipps-Mühle and Heilig Grab, Germany

Picture:  The Steep-Slope Wines from the Mittelrhein: Tasting at Collegium Vini with 4 Producers - Wine Estates Matthias Müller, Toni Jost, Philipps-Mühle and Heilig Grab

The Collegium Vini is an association of wine lovers in the greater Frankfurt area, founded in 1951, that meets regularly to taste wine together. This time, the Collegium Vini had invited 4 wine estates from the Mittelrhein to talk about steep slope wines, wines from vineyards with an inclination of more than say 50 degrees.

Two of the wine estates - Weingut Toni Jost from Bacharach (Cecilia Jost) and Weingut Matthias Müller (Johannes Müller) - were members of the VDP, the association of Germany's about 200 elite winemakers, and two wine estates - Weingut Philipps-Mühle in St. Goar (Thomas and Martin Philipps) and Weingut Heilig Grab from Boppard (Jonas Schoenberger) - were up-and-coming producers.

Picture: Prof. Dr. Ulrich Steeger

The evening, during which we tasted 20 wines, had 5 blocks.

(1) The evening started with Johannes Müller providing a general introduction to the Mittelrhein
(2) Thomas and Martin Philips reported about their recultivation efforts of a steep-slope wineyard.
(3) Cecilia Jost talked about the impliations of the height and the orientation of a vineyard.
(4) Jonas Schoeneberg introduced us to new machines that facilitate the work in steep-slope vineyards.
(5) In the middle of the evening we had a nice meal with 2 dinner wines. At the end, a fruity-sweet Spätlese was poured pour la route.

Mittelrhein

Beginning just below Bonn and extending about 100 km south along the banks of the Rhine, the Mittelrhein is a beautiful region of steep, terraced vineyards and some of the wine world's most splendid scenery, medieval castles and ruins clinging to rocky peaks, sites of ancient legends where Siegfried, Hagen and the Loreley seem to spring to life.

Nearly three quarters of the vineyards are planted with Riesling. Viticulture was established in the region by the Romans, once they had established the cities of Cologne (Colonia) and Bonn (Bonna). The region saw its heyday in medieval times, at a time when the Cistercian order built the Kloster Heisterbach abbey above Oberdollendorf. The small town of Bacharach is an ancient centre of the wine trade. The name of the town of Bacharach comes from the Roman "Baccara" = "Altar of Bacchus".

Picture: Kaub with the Castles Pfalzgrafenstein and Gutenfels. See: In the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

The Mittlerhein below St. Goarshausen is one of the few vineyards in the world where phylloxera has not yet struck. Small, family-run wineries are typical of the region. But winemaking in the Mittelrhein is shrinking at a rapid pace. Today, with 500 hectares vineyard area, it is less than 25% of what it was 100 years ago. The slopes are extremely steep, discouraging young winemakers to continue with the tradition of their fathers, while consumers are flooded with reasonably priced and good quality wines from all over the world. However, increasingly young and dynamic winemakers, such as those who joined us for the tasting, are successfully trying to reverse this trend.

Johannes Müller, Weingut Matthias Müller, Spay, Mittelrhein

Johannes Müller providing a general introduction to the Mittelrhein, the second smallest wine region in Germany. The village of Deidesheim, for example, is larger than the whole Mittelrhein area.

Pictures: Johannes Müller Presenting

The Wines Johannes Müller, Weingut Matthias Müller, Spay, Mittelrhein Poured

Johannes Müller poured 4 wines.

Pictures: Johannes Müller's Wines

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Johannes and Matthias Müller - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Johannes and Matthias Müller, Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein. See: Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Johannes and Matthias Müller - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Thomas and Martin Philipps, Weingut Philipps-Mühle, St. Goar, Mittelrhein

Thomas and Martin Philips provided a report about their recultivation efforts of a steep-slope wineyard.

Pictures: Thomas and Martin Philipps

The Wines Thomas and Martin Philipps, Weingut Philipps-Mühle, St. Goar, Mittelrhein, Poured

Thomas and Martin Philipps poured 4 wines.

Pictures: Thomas and Martin Philipps' Wines

Cecilia Jost, Weingut Toni Jost, Bacharach, Mittelrhein

Cecilia Jost dwelled on the impliations of the height and the orientation of a vineyard.

Pictures: Cecilia Jost Presenting

The Wines Cecilia Jost, Weingut Toni Jost, Bacharach, Mittelrhein, Poured

Cecilia Jost poured 4 wines.

Pictures: The Wines Cecilia Jost Presented

Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Cecilia Jost – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours, Germany

Picture: Peter and Cecilia Jost, Weingut Toni Jost, Bacharach, Mittelrhein. See: Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Cecilia Jost – Germany-North Tour 2015 by ombiasy WineTours, Germany

Johannes Schoeneberger, Weingut Heilig Grab, Boppard, Mittelrhein

Jonas Schoeneberger introduced us to new mahines that facilitate the work in steep-slope vineyards.

Pictures: Jonas Schoeneberger's Presentation

The Wines Johannes Schoeneberger, Weingut Heilig Grab, Boppard, Mittelrhein, Poured

Johannes Schoeneberger poured 5 wines.

Pictures: Johannes Schoeneberger's Wines

Dinner

In the middle of the evening we had a nice meal with 2 dinner wines.

Pictures: Dinner

Bye-bye

At the end, a fruity-sweet Spätlese was poured "for the road".

Picture: Pour la Route

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Top 25 Restaurants in Washington DC (Washingtonian, January 2019)

Pictures: Christian Schiller at the New Maxwell Park Wine Bar in Washington DC, USA

The Washingtonian is a monthly magazine distributed in the Washington, D.C. area. The magazine describes itself as "The Magazine Washington Lives By". Once a year, the Washingtonian releases a list of Washington's 100 best restaurants. The 2019 list was released a few days ago. Below you find the top 25 restaurants of the 2019 Washingtonian list.

The Washingtonian: Our 2019 Very Best Restaurants list hits newsstands this week, and we’re so excited for you to check it out. The list is a culmination of nearly a year of research (and by that I mean eating and drinking), hundreds of miles of driving, and a whole lot of careful consideration and debate. We visited over 300 restaurants in DC, Maryland, and Virginia.

Picture: Washingtonian January 2019

As in the past, we’ve ranked all 100 of the restaurants (the “we” in this case refers to me, Anna Spiegel, Jessica Sidman, and Cynthia Hacinli). So who’s number one? That honor goes to Minibar, Jose Andres’s wildly creative (and yes, wildly expensive) tasting room/lab in Penn Quarter. The place has been around for 15 years, but we were stunned at the mastery of every bite, which each brought together creativity and deliciousness—two things that don’t always go hand in hand.

Our top ten boasts both tried-and-true destinations (the Inn at Little Washington) and stunning newcomers (the omakase-only Sushi Nakazawa), plus plenty of places that don’t command blowout-dinner prices (have you tried that kimchee toast at Elle?).

In truth, we had about 120 places we were passionate and excited about. Narrowing the field was incredibly difficult, even given the fact that several closures—including Garrison, which shuttered just days before we went to press—left a slew of open slots. But with the help of a bunch of index cards, hours of energetic discussion, and an All-Purpose buffalo-chicken pizza, we pulled through.

Onward to the top 25!

1. Minibar: At José Andrés’s newly redone tasting room, chef Jorge Hernandez leads a 28-odd-dish progression that is surprising, thrilling, and above all, very delicious.

2. The Dabney: Jeremiah Langhorne uses mid-Atlantic and Southern flavors as a springboard, then makes magic in his Shaw restaurant’s giant hearth.

3. The Inn at Little Washington: For lovers of luxe mod-American dining and whimsical touches—a four-star popsicle, truffle-laden popcorn—there is no better place to celebrate than Patrick O’Connell’s Rappahannock County hideaway.

4. Sushi Nakazawa: Its Trump Hotel location might deter some, but they’re missing out on the city’s best sushi experience, an all-nigiri omakase.

5. Tail Up Goat: We’ve never had a dull meal in this cozy Adams Morgan dining room run by three Komi vets.

6. Pineapple and Pearls: Tasting menus can sometimes feel like Sunday mass. Aaron Silverman’s Capitol Hill prix fixe place is the opposite—unfussy and fun.

7. Elle: It’s our favorite breakfast and lunch spot by day. By night, it turns out dreamy cocktails and plates both creative and comforting.

8. Komi: Johnny Monis and Anne Marler’s menu-free tasting room in a Dupont Circle rowhouse is wonderfully unpretentious.

9. Kinship: At the more casual of their two Shaw restaurants, Eric Ziebold and Celia Laurent serve luxe dishes with a range of influences, from the midwest to Japan.

10. Little Serow: Johnny Monis and Anne Marler’s $54-a-person Thai spot is one of the best values in the city.

11. Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana: These Neapolitan pies are the best in the area, thanks to chef Tony Conte.

12. Spoken English: The standing-only, communal-table spot in Adams Morgan’s Line hotel turns out thrilling kushiyaki and whole roast duck.

13. Metier: Chef Eric Ziebold leans French at this subtly elegant Shaw tasting room, and Celia Laurent is the most gracious of hosts.

14. Del Mar: Fabio and Maria Trabocchi’s glittering Spanish dining room at the Wharf continues to wow us with opulent paellas and small plates.

15. Centrolina: Simple Italian dishes call for high quality ingredients and an assured chef. This CityCenterDC osteria has both.

16. Bad Saint: The Filipino cooking at this tiny spot is electric—and hallelujah, it’s just started taking reservations.

17. Himitsu: Kevin Tien’s Japanese-ish dishes are often brilliant, and the snug, macrame-hung space is a charmer.

18. Blue Duck Tavern: New chef Adam Howard has reinvigorated this Shaker-chic hotel dining room.

19. Sushi Taro: Washington has seen a boom in Japanese restaurants, but we can’t stay away from this 32 year-old institution’s sought-after omakase counter—or its half-price sushi happy hour.

20. Chloe: It’s a testament to Haidar Karoum’s finesse and skill that he can make a Bavarian sausage work on the same table as a delicate crudo and Lebanese hummus.

21. Masseria: Nick Stefanelli’s Italian tasting room near Union Market feels like a luxurious little world of its own, where you can sip Campari cocktails around fire pits and dig into a cannoli stuffed with foie gras.

22. Bresca: Our current favorite attraction at Ryan Ratino’s inventive 14th Street gem: the 19th century duck press.

23. Le Diplomate: Brunch with kids, a celebratory dinner, a late night cheeseburger, day-drinking rose on the patio—Stephen Starr’s 14th Street hotspot is the rare restaurant that’s suited to most any occasion.

24. Estadio: The cooking and cocktails are as strong as ever at this remarkably consistent Logan Circle Spanish place.

25. All-Purpose: Mike Friedman’s more-is-more Italian-American plates and pizzas are balanced by lovely salads and inventive vegetable plates.

The complete 2019 list of the 100 best restaurants in the Washington DC area, you find here.

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Pictures: Extensive Vertical "Kastanienbusch" Tasting (Riesling and Spätburgunder) at Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Peter Siener - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

In the Pfalz, we visited 4 wine producers during:  The Sun-Kissed South: Germany’s Pinot Noir, the Other Whites, the Culinary Regions - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Weingut Friedrich Becker in Schweigen
Weingut Siener in Birkweiler
Weingut Bürklin-Wolf in Wachenheim
Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl in Deidesheim

Pictures: Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, Pfalz

While the other three estates are all considered to be at the world-class level (and are VDP members, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers), Weingut Siener is a step below with 3/5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide 2019. Most of the wines are sold at the winery itself with exports accounting only for a small part of the output. Against this backgound, Weingut Siener produces most interesting, highly sought, high quality wines at a price point below that of the other three producers we visited in the Pfalz. Peter Siener's wines are like him character heads, occasionally a little stubborn, but unmistakable, with a lot of backbone and always worth the patience. Power, acidity and length mate in a variety of ways in his wines, with freshness and tension. Peter Siener is as deeply-rooted in Birkweiler as his vines are rooted in the soils of the foothills of the Palatinate mountains. Besides his passion for his wines Peter Siener also loves cooking and is passionate about food. That explains the grip and power of his wines that are perfect to match with food.

Peter Siener was our host.

Pictures: Welcome

The visit started with a glass of Weingut Peter Siener Sekt. Peter then took us on a tour of the famous Kastanienbusch and Mandelberg vineyards. We then sat down with Peter Siener in the courtyard of Weingut Siener for a Riesling Kastanienbusch and Pinot Noir Kastanienbusch vertical tasting comprising 5 vintages. Denise Siener served delicious local food from the Pfalz.

This is the second of two postings with regard to our visit of Weingut Siener:

Vineyard Tour at Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, Pfalz, with Peter Siener - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Extensive Vertical "Kastanienbusch" Tasting (Riesling and Spätburgunder) at Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Peter Siener - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen 

Pictures: Welcome Sekt at Weingut Siener with Peter and Denise Siener

Weingut Siener

For three generations, the Weingut Siener has been all about family and wine. Peter and Denise and their daughters Paula and Helena live in a traditional Winzerhaus in Birkweiler.

Peter Siener is the third generation owner and winemaker at Weingut Siener. He took over from his father in 2000 and has since stepped hard on the accelerator to pursue quality with a vengeance. He also doubled the vineyard site and has holdings in two of the best vineyard sites of the southern Pfalz: the Kastanienbusch and the Mandelberg both in Birkweiler. Since Peter's entry into the winery, new approaches have been taken in reducing yields, developing wines and marketing, with great recognition and much success.. He belongs to the generation of the young, energetic winemakers in Germany who follow new paths to only produce the best of the best quality.

Today, the vineyard are totals 15 hectares in the single vineyards Kastanienbusch and Mandelberg (Birkweiler), as well as Sonnenberg (Leinsweiler). They are planted with the white varieties Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Silvaner, as well as with the red varieties Pinot Noir, St. Laurent, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The Siener wines are produced in 4 lines: Literwein, Gutswein, Erste Lage Wein and Grosse Lage Wein.

Bottle-fermented sparkling wines (Sekt) are also produced.

The winery is a member of the Vereinigung Südpfalz-Connexion and of FAIR'N GREEN.

FAIR'N GREEN

Peter Siener: By becoming a member of FAIR'N GREEN, we want to have our sustainable production certified, which translates into more transparency for our customers and even more sharing and control at every step in our work, and we believe it will optimize our operations in many areas - our contribution to environmental protection and social responsibility.

Chilled Wine (Hong Kong)

In terms of exports, Weingut Siener wines are available in Switzerland, Norway, Holland and Hong Kong (at Chilled Wine).

Chilled Wines: Siener - The Grape Whisperer. Peter Siener’s wines are a reflection of his own personality – generous, swinging, and thoughtful – wine is not just a product to him, and making it is not a job; he is ‘Vintner at Heart’. That’s why he is only fully satisfied if the quality exceeds his own expectations, ensuring that good can be better and better can be best. Sophistication and distinctiveness are things that usually fade with time, but the taste of Peter’s wines makes each moment everlasting.

Vineyard Tour at Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, Pfalz, with Peter Siener

Following  a glass of Siener Sekt, Peter took us on a tour of the famous Kastanienbusch and Mandelberg vineyards.

I have already reported about the vineyard tour here: Vineyard Tour at Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, Pfalz, with Peter Siener - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Pictures: Vineyard Tour at Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, Pfalz, with Peter Siener

Extensive Vertical Kastanienbusch Vineyard Tasting (Riesling and Spätburgunder)

After the vineyard tour, we drove back to the estate and sat down with Peter in the courtyard of Weingut Siener for a Riesling Kastanienbusch and Pinot Noir Kastanienbusch vertical tasting comprising 6 vintages. Denise Siener served delicious local food from the Pfalz. We started the tasting with a few other wines.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Peter Siener

The Wines Peter Poured

Weingut Siener produces most interesting, highly sought, high quality wines at a price point below that of the other three producers we visited in the Pfalz. Peter Siener's wines are like him character heads, occasionally a little stubborn, but unmistakable, with a lot of backbone and always worth the patience. Power, acidity and length mate in a variety of ways in his wines, with freshness and tension. Peter Siener is as deeply-rooted in Birkweiler as his vines are rooted in the soils of the foothills of the Palatinate mountains. Besides his passion for his wines Peter Siener also loves cooking and is passionate about food. That explains the grip and power of his wines that are perfect to match with food.

Pictures: Tasting Notes

A few other Wines

We started with a few other wines.

5 Kastanienbusch Rieslings

We then tasted 5 vintages of  Kastanienbusch Riesling.

Peter Siener: 1500 bottles per year. Slate. Low yield. Small, yellow berries. No need for green harvest. Old vines bring saltiness to the taste.

2016 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Schiefer, Riesling

Peter Siener: Cool year. 36 hours pressing. 10 months on th lees. In stainless steel tanks. Good acidity. Fresh. Very mineral. Expect this wine to improve further.

2015 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Schiefer, Riesling

Peter Siener:  Extremely hot year. 12 hours skin maceration. Riper. Less acidity. More voluptious. More opulent. 

2014 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Schiefer, Riesling

Peter Siener: 40 hours skin maceration. Long time on the lees. 40% in used tonneaux. Is a bit closed now. Lots of herbs. Creamy.

2012 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Schiefer, Riesling

Peter Siener: Fantastic year in the Pfalz. Harvested in November. Stainless steel. Mineral, spicy, elegant. Tannins well integrated. Perfect.

2011 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Schiefer, Riesling

Peter Siener: Warm year. 12 hours skin maceration. Alcohol is in the forefront. Much less minerality than all the other vintages. Broad. Fat. Petrol at the end.

6 Kastanienbusch Pinot Noir and Spätburgunder

We finished with tasting 6 vintages Kastanienbusch Pinot Noir and Spätburgunder.

2014 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Pinot Noir

Peter Siener: Green harvest. Very low yield. 14% alcohol. 100% in new barrique. Wood well integrated. Fine tannins. Silky with lots of power.

2013 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Pinot Noir

Peter Siener: Green harvest. Very low yield. 100% in new barrique. THE year for Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir at its best. Very well made.

2012 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Pinot Noir

Peter Siener: Brownish in the glass. Dry tannins at the back. Less complex than 2013 and 2014. 

2011 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Spätburgunder

Peter Siener: Open vat fermentation. First  time without pumping. Lighter. Elegant. Lots of strawberry notes on the nose.

2009 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Spätburgunder

Peter Siener: Hot year. Fat. Not enough acidity. The grapes were harvested too late. Opulent. Lacks elegance. Very massiv.

2008 Weingut Siener Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Spätburgunder

Peter Siener: Very cold year. 100% in barrique. No brownish notes in the colour. Very fresh, young.

Bye-bye

Thanks Peter and Denise for a most impressive vineyard tour and a  world class tasting.

Picture: Bye-bye

schiller-wine: Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen - All Postings (Published and Forthcoming

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Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Impromptu Tasting at Weinbar & Vinothek Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf in Deidsheim, with Managing Director Steffen Brahner - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Impressive Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl in Deidesheim, Pfalz, with Richard Grosche - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Winemaker Dinner at Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl in Deidesheim, Pfalz, Germany

Tasting the Wines of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot at the Spanier Family Home in Hohen-Sülzen and Touring the Winery with Carolin Spanier-Gillot - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wagner-Stempel in Siefersheim, Rheinhessen, with Winemaker Oliver Müller and Owner Cathrin Wagner - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Cellar Tour and Lunch at Weingut Schloss Westerhaus in Ingelheim, Rheinhessen, with the Owners Countess and Count von Schönburg-Glauchau and Technical Director Toni Frank - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Tasting at Weingut Knewitz in Appenheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany