Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Annette Schiller with Jochen Ratzenberger in Bacharach, Mittelrhein,

Following lunch at Restaurant Altes Haus in Bacharach, we visited Weingut Ratzenberger. Winemaker/ owner Jochen Ratzenberger was our host. He took us on a breathtaking trips through his vineyards, followed by a winetasting at Weingut Ratzenberger.

Lunch in Bacharach

Bacharach is an incredible beautiful, romantic 1000 year old wine village. Its castles, church spires, medieval city wall, and half-timbered houses on the shore of the Rhine rive is pure “Rheinromantik”. Bacharach is also the birthplace of the world-famous designer Michael Thonet and there is a museum commemorating the famous son.

Pictures: Lunch in Bacharach at Restaurant Altes Haus

Weingut Ratzenberger

Weingut Ratzenberger is located in  Bacharach in the Mittelrhein wine-growing region in Germany. It is owned and run by Jochen Ratzenberger, the third generation to do so. The vineyard area totals 12 hectares, with holdings in such top-rated sites as Kloster Fürstenthal, Posten and Wolfshöhle (Bacharach), as well as in the St. Jost site in Steeg. More than three-quarters of the area is planted with Riesling (8,5 ha), as well as with Pinot Noir (1,5 ha), Pinot Gris and Rivaner. Sustainable, integrated vineyard practices are followed. The estate is a member of the VDP (Verband deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitäts-Weingüter) association.

Picture: Annette Schiller, Jochen Ratzenberger and Christian Schiller

The grandfather of the current owner, Jochen Ratzenberger, purchased this 300 year old wine estate in 1956. It lies in a beautiful narrow valley bordered by extremely steep vineyard sites. The winery is also very nice with vast, historic vaulted cellars. A significant portion of the vineyards are planted with vines more than 50 years old, which give the wines substance and at the same time elegance. Jochen Ratzenberger also produces some very delicious Sekt, which is kept on the lees for at least 30 months.

Pictures: Jochen Ratzenberger, Weingut Ratzenberger

Vineyard Tour

Upon arrival at the winery, Jochen Ratzenberger took us on a breathtaking tour of his vineyards Kloster Fürstenthal, Posten and Wolfshöhle in Bacharach and St. Jost in Steeg.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Ratzenberger

McDuff wine (Ratzenberger Producer Profile): ...Standing on a precipitous, narrow footpath between two sections of the St. Jost vineyard, we were able  to take in the view of nearly the entire estate. We were also exposed to the full force of the damp, cold, February wind blowing up the valley off the river, gaining a clear sense of just how peripheral this area is to viticulture. On the steep slopes above Bacharach and Steeg, Jochen’s vines are perfectly poised to receive every last ray of the sun, without which they would fail to ripen sufficiently for the production of quality wine. In cool climates, southern exposure can make the difference between a good site and a great one. In the Mittelrhein, southern exposure is an absolute must. And site is everything.

Pictures: Vineyard Tour with Jochen Ratzenberger

The tiny village of Steeg, home to the Ratzenberger family and winery, sits in the crook of a valley, due west from Bacharach at a point where the Rhein flows almost perfectly north to south. The Ratzenbergers’ property is based primarily on three einzellagen (single vineyards) perched on the northern face of the valley slopes:

Bacharacher Posten, nearest to the river at an average elevation of 150 meters, Bacharacher Wolfshöhle, a Großes Gewächs site, next up the valley at an elevation of 300 meters, and Steeger St. Jost, also Großes Gewächs, the westernmost site perched between 400-500 meters directly above the tiny hamlet of Steeg.

Pictures: Vineyard Tour with Jochen Ratzenberger

A fourth vineyard site, Kloster Fürstental, lays one valley to the south of Steeg. Due to the special climate and exposure of Fürstental, which is kept dry by breezes from the river and by wider than average row spacing, its Riesling now goes to the production of just two styles: Sekt and Eiswein.

... His vineyards are dominated by blue and black slate from the Devonian era. On the upper slopes, little if any topsoil is in evidence. Labor is almost entirely manual and in many spots necessitates a system of guide wires which he utilizes while working to prevent tumbles down the perilous inclines. Jochen makes the most of his land by farming to low yields and working the soil and plants as naturally as possible. Fertilization is completely organic. Pheromones are used, both to attract beneficial insects and put-off malevolent ones, in place of insecticides. Fungicides are used in small quantities to prevent vine diseases which can thrive in this cool, damp arena.

Tasting with Jochen Ratzenberger

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger

2015 Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Riesling trocken

Moore Brothers (2015): This is ripe, stony, and dry wine. An assemblage of all the estate fruit grown on the hill that towers over the town of Bacharach, this is wine so accurately crafted and balanced that fruit, acidity, minerals and spice are all impeccably integrated even at this early stage. Excellent with trout and bass, clams and oysters on the half-shell, and citrus-infused vegetables. (US$19)

2015 Weingut Ratzenberger Steeger St. Jost Riesling trocken

Moore Brothers (2014): This is ripe, stony, and dry wine, from the steeply sloped St. Jost vineyard directly behind the small Ratnzeberger winery in the village of Steeg. This is wine so accurately crafted and balanced that fruit, acidity, minerals and spice are all impeccably integrated even at this early stage. Riesling such as this pairs with a tremendously wide variety of foods, from simple seafood preparations (sushi!), to rich roasts of pork and veal. (US$29)

2012 Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Wolfhöhle GG trocken

2016 Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett

Princeton Corkscrew Wine Shop (2015): Weingut Ratzenberger, located in the beautiful Renaissance town of Bacharach, is in the heart of the Mittlerhein. The vineyards are steeped and terraced, blessed with excellent sunshine even for its northern latitude. The Rhine River protects these vineyards from strong winds and helps to regulate temperatures. The Rieslings of the Mittlerhein typically have great extract and structure, yet are always marked by outstanding acidity, making them excellent candidates for dry or sparkling wines. In the towns of Bacharach and Steeg, where Ratzenberger owns vines, the soils are pure devon black slate and lie on a single hillside, about a kilometer wide. The vineyards St. Jost, Wolfshöhle, and Posten are so steep that they can only be tended by hand. Jochen Ratzenberger produces wine with fine aromatic elegance, length, and structure.

The Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Feinherb is loaded with flavors of tangerine, peach, and ruby red grapefruit held together by bright acidity. The classic mineral and savory flavors imparted by the steep slopes of the Bacharach vineyards keep all the fruit in balance while each quaffable glass is enjoyed. Pair with lobster, crab, monkfish, salmon, and sausage.

2016 Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken

Moore Brothers (2010): Powerfully structured and rigorously bright, this Spätlese redefines our perception of German wine (did anybody say sweet?). The Posten vineyard contributes not only the intense acid that will allow this wine to evolve for several years to come, but also a lush, truffle-infused fruit that compliments pork, poultry, earthy cheeses and mushrooms.

2010 Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Spätlese

Moore Brothers (2010): This spätlese fructig wine from the Wolfshöhle offers compelling, developed aromas of dried fruit, stone and spice harmoniously integrated in a plush palate supported by bright acidity and a creamy texture. (US$32)

2004 Weingut Ratzenberger  Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Auslese

Moore Brothers Imports Weingut Ratzenberger Wines in the USA

Moore Brothers: It was dumb luck that brought us to Weingut Ratzenberger on a rainy afternoon in July of 2000, and in fifteen passing years since that first meeting, I’ve stayed with the Ratzenberger’s so many times that Blücherstraße 167 in Bacharach feels just like home. “It’s a music,” Jochen’s father tells me every time we taste their beautiful Rieslings together. “A melody.” Which is as much as I ever understand of his spontaneous, invented “English.” But once, a few years ago, while Kate and I were loading up our little rented Skoda, preparing to leave “home” in Bacharach one more time, I had no trouble understanding what he meant when he put a hand on my shoulder and said: “We are old brothers now.”

See also: Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

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Visit and tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger (VDP) in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger

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Picture: Tasting with Joachim A. J. Kaiser  and Torsten Kogge in Karlsruhe (Photo: Vinositas)

Red Wine Revolution in Germany

There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly takes note of it. Of course, given its location, the red wines of Germany tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent; in the international wine scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this is changing. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world; the share of red wines in terms of production has increased to about 35 percent now in Germany and increasingly the international market takes note of what is happening in Germany.

Karlsruhe Spätburgunder Tasting Series

Still, knowledge about German Pinot Noir outside of Germany is limited. Against this background, I find the list that Joachim A:J. Kaiser published recently very helpful. Joachim A.J. Kaiser's list grew out of a series of tastings that took place in Karlsruhe in 2016. Annette Schiller and I were lucky to be part of one of the tastings, with winemakers Johannes Jülg, Weingut Jülg, and Jürgen Krebs, Weingut Krebs.

Joachim A. J. Kaiser and Torsten Kogge provided a detailed account of the tastings on Vinositas.

Joachim A. J. Kaiser  and Torsten Kogge: We, that’s a group of wine journalists, vintners and educated wine enthusiasts, decided to have a more recent overview of German Pinot Noirs. Some Pinot Noirs in our tastings were selected because they were enthusiastically perceived in the German wine world, but mainly because they scored high in our personal as well as in our friends previous tastings. In the end 40 Pinot Noirs, 33 German ones, 4 from Burgundy, 2 from Switzerland and 1 from Oregon were arranged in four tastings, November and December 2016.

Top 20

Picture: Top 20 Spätburgunder (Photo: Vinositas)

Joachim A. J. Kaiser  and Torsten Kogge: People might claim that some producers of top German Pinot Noirs are missing, like Friedrich Becker (Pfalz) or Jean Stodden (Ahr), and our selection of German Pinot Noirs is erratic. That’s neither here nor there, our aim was not to have all high-end or a completely regional representative sample of German Pinot Noirs. But we definitely had a broad overview with many renowned wineries and lots of not so well-known ones. Add a dozen more wineries, it won’t change the general picture.

Joachim A. J. Kaiser  and Torsten Kogge: It’s no surprise that among our top 20s several internationally renowned producers can be found, Fürst, Heger, Huber, Kesseler, Knipser and Kreuzberg. Baltes, Bischöfliche Weingüter, Jülg, Koegler, Kuhn, Minges and Steinmetz might sound familiar to wine professionals. But who has ever heard of Bertram, Petri, solveigs or Lingenfelder? Meanwhile there are so many German vintners throughout all wine growing regions producing good to outstanding Pinot Noirs, it’s a real miracle:

Joachim A. J. Kaiser  and Torsten Kogge: No doubt, many Pinot Noirs from young vintners we did not have in our tastings would not have had any problem to compete with our selection. For example, Sven Enderle & Florian Moll’s Buntsandstein and Muschelkalk Pinot Noirs, or Dirk Würtz’s Balthasar Ress Caviar Pinot Noir are exceptional, highly individual wines. Another example is Oliver Gabel’s Honigsack Spätburgunder, which is not as freaky as others. Aromas are more on the classic Pinot Noir side, but also excellent quality wise.

Picture: Top 3 Spätburgunder (Photo: Vinositas)

Jancis Robinson on the Rise of German Pinot Noir (Financial Times)

A couple of days ago, Jancis Robinson released an article in the Financial Times on the rise of Pinot Noir in Germany. For the full article, go here. Below you find the first few chapters of Jancis' article:

Which countries grow the most Pinot Noir, the red burgundy grape? Not surprisingly, France wins gold in this particular championship, its total vastly boosted by the amount of Pinot Noir grown in Champagne. And thanks to the 2004 film Sideways, American demand for the grape has soared so much that the US takes silver.

But the bronze medal for growing Pinot Noir nowadays goes to Germany. Just one German region, Baden in the south-west, grows about as much Pinot Noir as the world’s fourth most important Pinot grower, New Zealand.

Partly thanks to warmer summers, and partly because of German consumers’ increasing partiality for red wine, Germany’s total area of Pinot Noir vines almost doubled in the 20 years to 2006. This total, encompassing a great mix of different clones and varied soils, has since remained fairly stable at about a third of all German vineyards.

Such is German enthusiasm for their Spätburgunder, as Pinot Noir is known there, that we don’t see huge quantities on export markets, but I seize every opportunity I can to taste it, because it seems to me that the average quality has risen enormously over the past five to 10 years. And, while Spätburgunders from renowned producers are rarely cheap, burgundy prices are now almost ludicrously high, so alternatives to red burgundy have become increasingly attractive.

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Pictures: Wine and Opera in Dresden - Mozart at Semper Opera and the Best Wines of Sachsen at Winebar Weinzentrale in Dresden-Neustadt, with Owner/ Sommelier Jens Pietzonka

During the 2017 Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours, we stayed 2 nights in Dresden in Sachsen. On the first night, we went to the world renowned Semper Opera and saw ”The Abduction from the Seraglio” by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, followed by drinks with a light dinner in a cosy little place next to the Frauenkirche. On the second night, we drove to Dresden-Neustadt and spent the evening at one of the leading wine bars in Dresden, Weinzentrale in Dresden-Neustadt. Jens Pietzonka was our host.

Semper Oper Dresden: ”The Abduction from the Seraglio” by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

We took a stroll from our hotel to the Semperopera through the historic part of Dresden. We soaked in the magnificent architecture and views along the “Brühl Terraces” on the banks of the Elbe river.

Pictures: An Opera Evening in Dresden

Sachsen Wine Tasting and Small Bites at Wine Bar Weinzentrale in Dresden-Neustadt

Owner/ Sommelier Jens Pietzonka introduced us to the wines of Saxony.

Jens Pietzonka is one of Germany's top sommeliers. Jens Pietzonka’s career path took him to a number of famous Michelin star restaurants in Germany. He was “Sommelier of the Year” in 2014 (Falstaff Magazine).

Pictures: An Evening with the Wines of Saxony at Weinzentrale in Dresden

The Wines of Sachsen (Saxony)

Sachsen, located in the former GDR, is the easternmost German wine region and extends some 35 miles north and south of Dresden along the Elbe River. Most of the region’s vines are planted on terraces along the River Elbe, and being at such a gradient, a lot of the work is done by hand. For 8 centuries, vintners here have mostly planted Müller-Thurgau and Riesling, earning a well-deserved reputation for excellent dry whites.

Picture: Germany's Wine Regions

Meissen porcelain, known locally as “white gold,” is one of the things Sachsen is best known for, being the first place in Europe to make china in the early 18th century.

Pictures: Meissen

Annette Schiller: This region tickles all your senses with its unique voluptuous baroque architecture, a rich history, its wealth of art, and love of all the good things in life.

What it is not so well-known for is its wine. Bordering Poland and the Czech Republic, Sachsen is one of Germany’s small wine regions (360 hectares) and disappeared from the wine map during the communist period.

During the communist times from 1945 until reunification in 1989, wine production was nationalized, and winemaking took place in huge VEB (volkseigener Betrieb / company owned by the people) wineries. The output, the bottle count was imposed on the VEB by the State, and therefore quality could not play a major role. After the iron curtain came down, family wineries were founded, and the winemakers pursued quality with a vengeance.

Pictures: In the Vineyards of Sachsen - Radebeul and Pillnitz

The three main grape varieties are Müller-Thurgau, Riesling and Weissburgunder but many others are grown in smaller quantities, including Grauer Burgunder, Spätburgunder, Roter Traminer, Kerner, Dornfelder, Goldriesling, Scheurebe and a rarity, Dunkelfelder. The wines are mostly dry (trocken). Most of the wine produced in Sachsen is consumed in the region.

See: Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Jens Pietzonka's Selection

Jens selected 6 wines from 5 top producers for us. Three of them - Schuh, Kretschko and Bönsch - are small, young, up-and-coming producers. Te other two producers - Drei Herren and Martin Schwarz - are also relatively new, but a bit better known outside of Sachsen. We visited Weingut Drei Herren on the 2016 Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours and Weingut Martin Schwarz 2017 Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours.

Picture: Jens Pietzonka's Selection

2016 Weingut Schuh, Traminer, Sachsen
2016 Weingut Schuh, Grauburgunder, Sachsen

Weingut Schuh is owned and run by Mathias Schuh and his sister Katharina since 2016. Dresdner Straße 314, 01640 Coswig OT Sörnewitz

Pictures: 2016 Weingut Schuh, Traminer, Sachsen

2015 Weingut A.R. Kretschko. Müller Thurgau, Sachsen

After studying between 2001 and 2005 at Geisenheime University and working between 2005 and 2012 at Weingut Schloss Wackerbarth, Andreas Kretschko decided to create his own winery in Radeberg. 1 hectare.

Pictures: 2015 Weingut A.R. Kretschko. Müller Thurgau, Sachsen

2015 Weingut Stefan Bönsch, Riesling, Sachsen

Only 6000 bottles. Stefan Bönsch produces wine under his own name since 2013.

Pictures: 2015 Weingut Stefan Bönsch, Riesling, Sachsen

2015 Weingut Drei Herren, Riesling, Sachsen

Picture: 2015 Weingut Drei Herren, Riesling, Sachsen

Weingut Drei Herren

Weingut Drei Herren was officially inaugurated in 2005. In 2002 art historian Prof. Dr. Rainer Beck purchased the estate and step by step he built up the wine estate. He always had a passion for wine; after all he can trace back his roots on his father’s side to a family with viticulture tradition.

Picture: Rainer Beck, Antje Wiedemann and Claus Höhne

There were three founding partners – hence the name: Drei Herren (Three Gentlemen). The second one was Claus Höhne, a winemaker from Radebeul who is still the vineyard manager and winemaker and a third gentleman who dropped out. In 2005 Antje Wiedemann, the saxon wine queen and later German wine princess, joined the team and the team decided to keep the name of the estate although now the ownership consists of two men and one women. Some justification came with her last name: it ends with “mann”, which means “gentleman”.

Picture: Restaurant Manager/ Sommelier Dirk Brauerand Chef A. Kühne 

Since the beginning great care was given to the quality of the wines and every year the portfolio gets high remarks in the German wine critic circles.

See:
Lunch with Wine Pairing at Weingut Drei Herren in Radebeul, Sachsen, with Restaurant Manager/ Sommelier Dirk Brauer - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: At Weingut Drei Herren

2015 Weingut Martin Schwarz, Chardonnay, Sachsen

Pictures: 2015 Weingut Martin Schwarz, Chardonnay, Sachsen

Weingut Martin Schwarz

Martin Schwarz belongs to the group of young, ambitious, up-and coming winemakers in Sachsen. Back in the days when sipping a 1975 Château Margaux on a park bench while skipping Latin classes at school he got hooked to the world of wine, and decided to make wine his profession. He interned at the VDP winery Dr. Heger in Baden to get some practical experiences under his belt. In 1996 he graduated from the famous Geisenheim Oenological University in the Rheingau. A prominent winery in Sachsen was looking for a cellar master and Martin took on that challenge. For 16 years he worked as winemaker at the VDP winery Schloss Proschwitz before he started out on his own in 2013. Today he owns 5 acres in one the best vineyards sites on the steep slopes of the Elbe river. His wines show a very individual character and convince with their complexity and finesse.

See:
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Pictures: Visit of Weingut Martin Schwarz in 2017

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