Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Oliver Donnecker (Heimat)

In Frankfurt am Main, when I just want to have a drink, I have 4 options.

First, I can drive over to Mainz and go to one of the many excellent wine taverns there. Wines tend to be entry level wines from the region.

See:
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

Second, I can drive to the Rheingau or Rheinhessen and go to a Strausswirtschaft at a winery. Only the wine maker’s wines are served.

See:
“Hoffest” (Winery Party) at Weingut Heinrich Baison in Hochheim, Rheingau - Best of Riesling 2010 Award Winner

Pictures: Römer and Frankfurt at Night

Third, I can go to an apple wine tavern in Frankfurt.This would be an evening with apple wine served in a Bembel.

See:
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Fourth, I can go to a wine bar in Frankfurt am Main. This posting provides an overview of the wine bars in Frankfurt am Main. The wine bars are ordered alphabetically.

This posting is a revised version (update) of a posting of last year.

See:
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main

Biancalani

A hip place - in fact, a trio of a fine-dining Italian restaurant, a bar and a casual bistro - where yuppies like to hang out. In the summer, the large terrace is an asset. Christoph Kubenz, who used to cook at schauMahl in Frankfurt/Offenbach, now is in charge at Biancalani, which has 15 toques in the Gault Millau.

At this point, Biancalani is partly closed and being remodeled. When it opens later this year, the small bistro space will be the fine dining restaurant, the bar will more or less remain as it was and the large Italian restaurant space will become a wine tavern, where the Biancalani wines (and probably others) will be served. (The owner of Biancalani owns and runs a winery in Tuscany).

Walther-von-Cronberg-Platz 7-9
Sachsenhausen

Picture: Christoph Kubenz and Christian G.E. Schiller at schauMahl

Bockenheimer Weinkontor

The Bockenheimer Weinkontor is a true original, located in the basement of the rear building. People here sit on wine crates instead of chairs. The place is never empty, but you can always find somewhere to sit. Service is at the counter only. The wines are good, but not more. Small snacks are served, such as bread with salami or cheese. You find here the university/1968er crowd.

Schloßstrasse 92 Hinterhaus (Rear building)
Bockenheim

Brasserie An der Alten Oper

A typical French brasserie with French food and French-speaking waiters, with a sizable bar area, which is popular with bankers for after work-drinks and with middle-aged people for a glass of wine in the later afternoon. Former European Central Bank President, the late Wim Duisenberg, was a regular here when he was at the helm of the ECB.

Opernplatz 8
Alte Oper

Picture: Brasserie an der Alten Oper

Brasserie du Sud

A bistro and large wine bar, with a comfortable terrace. The wine list is excellent, with a strong focus on German and other old world wines, perhaps 100 wines, with about 20 by the glass. The menu is brasserie-style.

Oppenheimer Landstraße 31
Sachsenhausen

Coq au Vin

“C’est correct” would my French friend say. Nothing spectacular, but good French cooking and a range of French wines at reasonable prices. Coq au Vin also has a nice bar area, where good French wines are served.

Wallstrasse 19 (The restaurant recently relocated)
Sachsenhausen (next to Lobster)

Duenker

A wine tavern in the basement of a house built in 1780. For many years, the room was used as a cellar to age apple wine, before Peter Duenker opened his wine wine tavern in 1948. Today, it is run by Christoph and Susanne Duenker. Nice outside area up at the entrance of the cellar.

The wine portfolio includes 300 wines, including 60 by the glass. Interesting, good wines, but you do not find premium wines. Most wines by the glass are Euro 3, some are less than Euro 2. Small bites to eat.

Berger Straße 265
Bornheim

Edelfisch (for lunch only)

Edelfisch is a specialty gourmet food retailer/wholesaler. This supermarket type store has a bar area, which is very popular for lunch. You can order any bottle from the wine section of the store. In addition, 6 to 8 interesting wines by the glass.

Lärchenstraße 101
Griesheim

Frankfurter Botschaft

Frankfurter Botschaft - with a very nice view of a marina - is a hip indoor and outdoor restaurant, with a beach area with large chairs and couches. The wine list is interesting. A nice place for an after dinner glass of wine.

Westhafenplatz 6-8
Hauptbahnhof

Groessenwahn

A traditional Frankfurt brasserie, with a wonderful, cozy atmosphere. It has been a Frankfurt “classic” for more than 40 years. Popular with the 1968 generation crowd as well as the gay scene. You can get local favorites like Handkas mit Musik (fresh cheese marinated with herbs), but also great spins on the classics like a curried lamb shank.

I have only gone there for a full meal and have not paid attention to the bar area. But I was told that “there is always very interesting people at the bar and the wines are not bad”.

Lenaustrasse 97
Nordeend-West

Heimat

Viewed from the outside, this glass pavilion looks almost like the diner in Edward Hopper’s famous painting “Nighthawks.” The menu is small but the food is top notch. Heimat has 15 toques in the GaultMillau Restaurant Guide 2013. You can watch Chef Gregor Nowak work in the kitchen right from your bar stool.

Picture: Chef Gregor Nowak

Heimat is probably the best wine bar in town. A stunning wine list. Sommelier and Co-owner Oliver Donnecker is one of the best, if not the best, sommeliers in town. But if you show up between 7 pm and 9 pm, you are expected to eat. And you need to make a reservation.

See:
The Best Restaurants in the Greater Frankfurt am Main Region, Germany 
Frankfurt Top Trendy Restaurants – Feinschmecker 2012, Germany

Berliner Str. 70
Willy Brandt Platz

Incantina

Incantina is a place where you can enjoy the cuisine and the wines of Emilia Romagna. It is mainly a restaurant with a small bar area. The wine list offers wines from over 240 different winemakers, members of the Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna.

Marco Giovanni Zanetti: This is life in Italy. This place all the good things from the Emilia Romagna area. They have a huge selection of Sangiovese and Lambrusco wines. Simply amazing home style Italian cuisine!

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Marco Giovanni Zanetti

Taunusstrasse 6
Hauptbahnhof

Lobster

This is very much a Parisian Bistro, where people go to eat. The menu is very down to earth; don't expect new and innovative French cooking but rather traditional recipes well executed.

There is a small bar area, with 6 bar chairs. There are also a couple of bar tables, where you can stand. Good, but not extensively large selection of German and other European wines.

Wallstraße 21
Sachsenhausen

Paris’ Bar and Café

For newcomers, this seems to be a French wine bar. But it is not. It is the wine bar of Paris Kosmidis, a film maker, author and journalist from Greece. He is usually there in the evening. Look out for a man with grey hair and chat with him about wine, art, theater or whatever.

You can have breakfast there in the morning, and cheese, cold cuts and vegetables during the day and in the evening. They do not have a kitchen and everything is prepared in a little corner of the bar.

Picture: Paris' Bar and Café

Paris' Bar and Café offers about a dozen wines by the glass. The focus is clearly on German, Austrian and Spanish wines. As often in Europe, New World Wines are not popular with the crowd that you meet at Paris' Bar and Café.

We always try to sit at the communal bar table in the middle of the bar and meet nice people there. If you want to shift from grape wine to apple wine, the national drink of Frankfurt am Main, two of the many cider brasseries are just around the corner, Adolf Wagner and Gemahltes Haus, on Schweizer Strasse.

See:
Wine Bar: Paris Bar and Cafe in Frankfurt am Main

Oppenheimer Landstraße 27
Sachsenhausen, Schweitzer Platz

Riz

Just around the corner of the Heimat and also similar in terms of approach and aspirations. Chef Milan Seidenfaden has previously cooked at the 1 star Michelin level in the Restaurant Francais.
Owner and Sommelier Philipp Degenhardt is very knowledgeable in terms of wine. He has 6 excellent wines by the glass and 300 by the bottle, with a strong focus on premium dry German and red German wines, all selected by Philipp.

Berliner Straße 72
Willy Brandt Platz

Rollander Hof

Popular hang-out for senior citizens, who want to chat with others and not break their bank account. Wines are very reasonably priced. It is a wine tavern and closes when the Kleinmarkthalle closes.

Hasengasse 5-7
Kleinmarkthalle

Vadder

Good, trendy neighborhood restaurant with a large bar area. Perhaps 40 seats and a long bar counter. When Eintracht Frankfurt plays, they pull out a large screen and show the game.

Chef and Owner is Norman Holub who used to cook at fine dining restaurants like Emma Metzler. The food is Frankfurt classics, with a modern interpretation of Norman. Sunday is bar-day, where only food from the bar menu is served. Norman Holub knows what he is doing and this is also evident in his wine list, which includes a good number of excellent wines by the glass.

Wuerzburger Strasse 38
Bornheim

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Gernot Dorsch of Frankfurt/Wein, one of the best Wine Stores in Frankfurt am Main, who is a Regular at Vadder.

Vai Vai

A hip place. You can chose between 3 (indoor) seating areas: A dining area that boasts steaks, pastas and Italian fare, a lush lounge area and a large bar area. In the summer, there is also a large side walk area. The wine list is interesting.

Grueneburgweg 16
Westend

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Vai Vai Boss Goran Petreski.

Vinum

A wine tavern housed in a wine cellar that was built in the 1890s und used until the late 1900s to store wine in one of the alleys off the Goethestrasse (Fressgass’). The food is typical German. The wine list is not bad, with a number of interesting German wines by the glass (at decent prices). I am sure, Japanese tourists love the place because of the authentic wine cellar eating and drinking experience. Also nice for a glass of wine and a late night snack after a show at the Alte Oper, which is nearby.

Kleine Hochstraße 9
Alte Oper

Walon, Rosetti and Cie

Bar and restaurant. This venture of Henry Walon (Sugar) und Radu Rosetti (Founder of Kingka-Club) is a new meeting place for those in Frankfurt who are hip. The Bahnhof district used to be a large and popular large red light district, but the area is being gentrified. Other in-places like Maxie Eisen and a popular fish restaurant are around the corner. Walon, Rosetti and Cie has a long bar counter. The wine list is interesting. On warm days, people also hang out on the side walk in front of the restaurant.

Moselstrasse 23
Hauptbahnhof

Weingarten

Arguably the best wine bar (in a narrow sense) in town. It is owned and run by Ulrich Kabiersch, who knows his wines. Pleasant atmosphere, excellent wines (200) and good bar food - cheese and charcutterie. In the summer, very nice outside area.

Clemensstraße 3
Bockenheim

Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt

Frankfurt am Main in Germany is known for its international airport and its banks, but it is not known to be a wine city. Yet, the city of Frankfurt owns a wine estate: Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt. That the city of Frankfurt is in the winemaking business goes back to the secularization (the expropriation of the church and transfer of the assets to the state) that took place under Napoleon at the beginning of the 1800s. In the course of the secularization, the city of Frankfurt became the owner of the Carmelite Monastery, which had existed right in the middle of Frankfurt since 1246. With the monastery came its winery and vineyards. The Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt was borne (in 1803). he Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt was borne (in 1803).

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt

You can drink the wines of the Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt all year round in the Weinstube im Roemer - the historic Frankfurt town hall. The Weinstube im Roemer is a nice wine tavern which offers good, hearty food from the Frankfurt area, such as Handkaes mit Musik, Fleischwurst mit Brot and Rippchen mit Kraut. The Weinstube im Roemer only serves wines from the Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt.

See:
Wine in Frankfurt am Main? - Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt, Germany

Weinstube im Nordend

Same owner and concept as Weinstube in Sachsenhausen (see below).

Eckenheimer Landstr. 84
Nordend

Weinstube in Sachsenhausen

A cosy wine tavern, with a good selection of basic wines and local food. You pick your wine and your food at the bar counter. This is an excellent choice if you want to chill and relax, but not if you are looking for an interesting wine. In the summer, nice side walk area.

Brückenstrasse 35
Sachsenhausen

Westbar

A hip wine bar. Guests sit on leather couches alongside the bar’s window front or down along the bar. The wine list comprises some 40 interesting wines, including two dozen wines by the glass. The Westbar does not serve meals, but snacks such as tapas and cheese plates. The international clientele of the Westbar certainly mirrors the demographic makeup of its home, the Westend. Most regulars seem to live or work in the neighborhood. The Westbar also has outside seating.

Myliusstraße 48
Westend

Westlage

Westlage is a wine and regional specialities store cum winebar. All wines are from the Pfalz area. The focus is on young, unknown, innovative winemakers.

I love the Weinbar Abend on Wednesday; Westlage stays open until 11 pm and on a warm summer day people gather on the sidewalk in front of the store wherever they find space. On other weekdays, Westlage closes at 8 pm.

Grüneburgweg 92
Westend

Schiller’s Favorites

This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series.

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France 

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France

Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, UK

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary

Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

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Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Tasting with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

Picture: Tasting with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

Wine Majesties have a long tradition in Germany. Basically all wine villages, wine regions and the country as a whole have wine queens and wine princesses. Of course, the crème de la crème are the national wine majesties, the German Wine Queen and the two German Wine Princesses.

One of the two reigning German Wine Princesses, Sabine Wagner, came to the US for an East Coast Tour (Northern Virginia, Philadelphia and Washington DC) with a series of events between June 25 and June 30, 2014. The trip was organized by Annette Schiller (Ombiasy PR and WineTours) and supported by the German Wine Institute (Mainz, Germany) and the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter).

Picture: Award winning Caffe Aldo Lamberti in Cherry Hill, NJ

I have already provided an overview about the tour, here: German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner on US East Coast Tour, US/Germany

This posting focuses on one event, a tasting with the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, led by the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner. For other postings concentrating on one event of the tour see below.

Picture: Beth Sheligo, Chapter Chairperson and National German Wine Society President, and German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

US East Coast Tour of German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner

Annette Schiller: This past week was a fabulous week for German wine. Many of you participated in one or several of the events with Sabine Wagner, the reigning German wine princess. Sent by the German Wine Institute as ambassador for German wine she was here to promote German wine. Ombiasy PR and WineTours  organized tastings, wine pairing dinners, classes, and a BYOW party at our house. I think we all learned a lot from Sabine’s presentations on German wine in general, on the new classification for German wine, and on the rigorous knowledge competition throughout several years to become the National Ambassador for German wine. Sabine showed us wines from entry level to ultra-premium level, and from bone dry to sweet. It was a showcase of what serious German winemakers are capable of producing.

Invitation

Beth Sheligo Chapter Chairperson: Our next event will provide a unique, first experience for our chapter, when we will host a very special guest from Germany, the reigning National Wine Princess, Sabine Wagner. For those to whom this is a unique concept, a bit of background may be helpful. The first German Wine Queen was crowned in 1931. Since 1950, the Queen has been selected in a separate competition from among the regional wine queens elected in their respective regions. The Wine Queen Competition is arranged by the German Wine Institute, who is sponsoring Ms. Wagner's travel around the world. The election process consists of two rounds. In the first round, candidates face a rigorous oral examination with questions about viticulture and wine making technique, as well as wine labeling, packaging and marketing, from a panel of 80 judges. In addition, each candidate had to assist, in English, "a confused foreign tourist" visiting Germany's wine country. Only 6 candidates go through to the final round, where they demonstrate an ability to field questions on wine making spontaneously. At the conclusion of the competition, a Wine Queen and her two Princesses are chosen. During their one year term of office, the Wine Queen and Princesses advertise German wine at trade fairs, wine festivals and other events. A brief biography of Ms. Wagner follows:

Pictures: Tasting with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

Four years ago, at the age of 17, Sabine Wagner had already been crowned a wine princess in her home town of Hochheim/Rheingau, an event that also marked the beginning of her great passion for wine...a passion that has endured to this day. After two years as a wine princess, she was elected to be the region’s wine queen. Today, the optimistic young woman confidently explains that one does not necessarily have to grow up on a wine estate in order to represent the cultural tradition of the Rheingau, its wine, and its people with knowledge, charm, and dignity.

In the meantime, she is in the midst of her studies in international wine business at the renowned Hochschule Geisenheim University in the Rheingau and says that wine is her all, now and in the future. Her motto is basically "to make the impossible possible." Sabine's dream is to operate an international vinothek (sales and tasting shop).

Above all, her heart beats for Germany, a gem of a wine country. Its core comprises thirteen growing regions; its mantle, the country’s leading producers. Yet, its multifaceted crust – made up of many, many small wine estates – is what gives German wine country its brilliance and unique character. Sabine feels it will be an honor for her to make people aware of this as she works with the 65th German wine queen.

Ms. Wagner will briefly discuss the System of Wine Queens and Wine Princesses in Germany, Studying at a Wine University, and will present the following wines for our tasting (and yes, she will be wearing her crown!) We are truly honored to host an international goodwill ambassador for German wines in Ms. Wagner, and hope you will make her feel welcome at our chapter.

The tasting will be held at the award winning Caffe Aldo Lamberti in Cherry Hill, NJ. Recently honored by the Wine Spectator for their wine selection, our Chapter has enjoyed the wonderful service and outstanding food at this location for the past several years. For this event, a cold anti pasta and hot appetizers served family style will be included with the tasting. By popular request, the hot appetizers will feature some new items. Please plan to join us for this very special event.

The Wines

Pictures: The Wines

2012 St. Urbans-hof Old Vines Riesling (Mosel)
2012 Strub Soil to Soul Riesling (Rheinhessen)
2012 Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau)
2011 Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett (Rheinhessen)
2010 Koehler Ruprecht Kallstadter Steinacher Riesling Kabinett (Pfalz)
2009 Schloss Schoenborne Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau)
2012 Kruger Rumpf Munsterer Dautenpflanzer Riesling Spatlese (Nahe)
2011 Merkelbach Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Spatlese (Mosel)

Postings on schiller-wine about the US East Coast Tour of German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner 

This posting is part of a series of postings covering the US East Coast tour of German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner.

German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner on US East Coast Tour, US/Germany

Wining and Dining with a Princess: German Wine Pairing Dinner with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at Restaurant 2941 in Northern Virginia, US

German Wine Tastings with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at the German Wine Society (Philadelphia Chapter), US

German Wine Tastings with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), US

The German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, US

Riesling Summer at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA

A German Riesling Pairing Event at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia - A Royal Wine Visit from Princess Sabine Wagner, US

schiller-wine: Related Postings

3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA 

A Date with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany

Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA

"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines

Weingut von Hoevel – The New Generation: Max von Kunow in Washington DC, US

The Annual “New German Vintage” Tasting of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Phil Bernstein - 2012 Vintage, Germany/USA

Monday, August 18, 2014

The German Winemakers and Wines at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium in Germany (Rheingau)

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil at Weingut Robert Weil, looking at Turmberg and Graefenberg

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium took place on May 26 and 27, 2014, at Schloss Rheinhartshausen in the Rheingau. Riesling experts from around the world - top winemakers, representatives from the trade and restaurant sector, and journalists – gathered to celebrate, discuss and taste the arguably most noble white grape in the world - Riesling.

I have already provided an overview about the 2nd International Riesling Symposium event: The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

This posting focuses on Germany, more specifically, the wines from Germany that were presented and the winemakers from Germany that participated in the 2nd International Riesling Symposium.

Riesling in the World

There are about 47000 hectares planted with Riesling worldwide. Germany – with 22500 hectares – accounts for about half of the total. The second and third largest Riesling producer are the US (mainly Washington State and Finger Lakes Region) with 4800 hectares and Australia with 4100 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Alsace, Ukraine and Austria follow with 3500 hectares, 2700 hectares and 1900 hectares, respectively.

Overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine. In terms of quality wines, Riesling is usually included in the top three white wine varieties, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is highly terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of Riesling wines is clearly influenced by the wine’s place of origin

German Winemakers at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium

Weingut Fritz Allendorf
Wein- und Sektgut Barth
Weingut Battenfeld Spanier
Weingut Georg Breuer
Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf
Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt
Weingut A. Christmann
Weingut H. Dönnhoff
Weingut Emrich-Schönleber
Weingut Rudolf Fürst
Weingut Grans-Fassian
Weingut K.F. Gröbe
Weingut Reinhold Haart
Weingut Dr. Heger
Gut Hermannsberg
Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein
Weingut Johannishof, Johannes Eser
Weingut Toni Jost
Weingut Keller
Weingut August Kesseler
Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt
Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach
Weingut Baron Knyphausen
Weingut Kühling-Gillot
Weingut Künstler
Weingut Langwerth von Simmern
Weingut Leitz
Weingut Dr. Loosen
Weingut G.H. von Mumm
Weingut Prinz
Weingut Prinz von Hessen
Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz
Weingut Schloss Johannisberg
Weingut Schloss Lieser
Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber
Weingut Josef Spreitzer
Weingut St. Antony
Weingut St. Urbans-Hof
Weingut Tesch
Weingut Van Volxem
Weingut Wagner Stempel
Weigüter Wegeler
Weingut Robert Weil
Weingut von Winning
Weingut Hans Wirsching
Weingut Wittmann
Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken
Weingut Klaus Zimmerling

German Wines at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium

Germann wines were shown in 3 of the 4 major tastings: (1) The Grand Cru Couple from VDP.Grosse Lage – Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese. A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Giuseppe Lauria, Germany (only German wines), (2) Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route - A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Cornelius and Fabian Lange, and (3) Riesling and Aging Potential. A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Caro Maurer, MW, Germany.

The Grand Cru Couple from VDP.Grosse Lage – Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese. A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Giuseppe Lauria, Germany 

Picture: Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil, and Guiseppe Lauria

Geheimrat J.Wegeler, Mosel, 2012 Bernkastel Doctor, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG - very acid, shows cool minerality, citrus and apple aromas. The Spätlese - a quite elegant wine, also with strong minerality.

Schloss Lieser, Mosel, 2012 Niederberg Helden, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG – spontaneous fermentation, long contact with lees, strong minerality, shows were the wine comes from. The Spätlese – fruit is very upfront, aromas are more difficult to detect, needs more time to open up, 90 grams RS.

Picture: Christian G.E Schiller and Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, at Lunch

Grans-Fassian, Mosel, 2012, Trittenheim Apotheke, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG - not a big wine, fragile, not as much in balance as the previous two GG wines.

Dönnhoff, Nahe, 2012, Niederhausen Hermannshoehle, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG – prototype for the region, earthy notes, pronounced acidity, still a very young wine. The Spätlese – apricots, white peach, quite balanced, quite long in the mouth.

Picture: Cornelius and Helmut Dönnhoff and Martin Tesch

Emrich-Schoenleber, Nahe, 2012, Monzingen Hallenberg, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG – got power, but remains elegant, really good structure, quite monolithic in its style. The Spätlese – wonderfully balanced, is full of energy, great drinkability.

Picture: Werner Schönleber, Weingut Schönleber

Wagner-Stempel, Rheinhessen, 2012, Siefersheim Heerkretz, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG – fermented in wood, very mineral. Daniel Stempel: The Spätlese – only a few bottles were made of this wine, basically for the export market.

Picture: Daniel Stempel, Weingut Wagner Stempel

Toni Jost, Mittelrhein, 2012, Bacharach Hahn, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG – explosive Riesling fruit, ripe, peaches, a fruit – forward wine, fermented in stainless steel, with 10% botrytis. The Spätlese – 50% botrytis, also fermented in stainless steel.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller and Cecilia Jost, Weingut Toni Jost - Hahnenhof

Oekonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz, 2011, Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG – herbal, spicy, only fully ripe grapes without botrytis were used. The Spätlese – 70 grams RZ, quite complex, big potential.

Picture: Hansjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz

K.F. Groebe, Rheinhessen, 2011, Westhofen, Kirchspiel, GG and Spätlese

Robert Weil, Rheingau, 2011, Kiedrich Gräfenberg, GG and Spätlese

Giuseppe Lauria: The GG – mango, yellow fruits, also lots of minerality.

Josef Spreitzer, Rheingau, 2009, Oestrich Lenchen, GG and Spätlese 303

Picture: Andreas Spreitzer, Weingut Spreitzer

Leitz, Rheingau, 2009, Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck, GG and Spätlese

Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route - A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Cornelius and Fabian Lange

Picture: Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route - A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Cornelius and Fabian Lange

Wein- und Sektgut Barth Rheingau
Barth Sekt Primus Brut, made from 2009 Hattenheim Hassel Erstes Gewaechs
2009 Hattenheim Hassel Erstes Gewächs

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: The same grape material in 2 different interpretations – as a sparkling wine and as a still wine. It is hard to believe that the 2 wines were made with the same grape material.

Weingut Rudolf Fürst Franken
2009 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Picture: Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst

Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber Rheingau
2009 Mittelheim St. Nikolaus Erstes Gewaechs

Weingut van Volxem Mosel
2010 Kanzem Altenberg Alte Reben VDP.Grosse Lage

Roman Niewodniczanski: We try to make our wines in a traditional style, low yields, old vines, a wine that is low in alcohol.

Picture: Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut van Volxem

Weingut von Winning Pfalz
2010 Deidesheim Kieselberg VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Gut Hermannsberg Nahe
2011 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube VDP. Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Tesch Nahe
2011 Laubenheimer Kartaeuserhof Riesling trocken

Martin Tesch: We have lots of different soils. We like to keep things simple and short: one grape variety, no oak, screw caps.

Picture: Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch

Weingut Kühling-Gillot Rheinhessen
2011 Nierstein Pettenthal VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

H.O. Spanier: We produce bio-dynamic. We do not do anything. The wine ferments and we leave the wine alone to develop.

Picture: H.O. Spanier, Weingut Kühling-Gillot

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: The last 3 wines are very close together, very similar interpretations, a good trio from the southern, middle and northern parts of Germany

Weingut A. Christmann Pfalz
2011 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Stefan Christmann: This wine shows very well what the Pfalz can do, spontaneously fermented, let the wine develop.

Picture: Stefan Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann

Weingut Dr. Loosen Mosel
2011 Uerzig Wuerzgarten Alte Reben Reserve VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Super soft, a lot of harmony in the wine.

Picture: Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen

Weingut Johannishof Rheingau
2011 Ruedesheim Berg Rottland Erstes Gewaechs

Picture: Johannes Eser, Weingut Johannishof

Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Mosel
2012 Winningen Uhlen “Blaufuesser Lay” VDP. Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Hans Wirsching Franken
2012 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Keller Rheinhessen
2012 Dalsheim Hubacker VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Wittmann Rheinhessen
2012 Westhofen Morstein VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Picture: Philipp Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann

Weingut August Kesseler Rheingau
2012 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Prinz
2012 Hallgarten Jungfer VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Picture: Fred Prinz, Weingut Prinz

Riesling and Aging Potential. A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Caro Maurer, MW, Germany.

Picture: Wilhelm Weil and Caro Maurer, MW, at the Riesling and Aging Potential Tasting, 2nd International Riesling Symposium

Weingut Fürst Castell’sches Domänenamt Franken
2004 Castell Schlossberg Spätlese trocken

Caro Maurer: A very special wine: A Riesling from Franken, where Riesling accounts for only 4% of the production. A bolder, heavy style, long hang time. The boldness of the wine comes from the soil. Has a minerality in the finish that gives the wine a very special appearance.

Weingut Künstler Rheingau
2004 Hochheim Hölle Auslese trocken

Caro Maurer: One of the famous sites of Hochheim. 2004 was a cool vintage (after the hot 2003 vintage). Long hang time. Only healthy fruit was used. Has smoky, flinty notes in the nose, leanness in the mouth, elegance. It is a complete wine now at its peak.

Picture: Gunter Künstler

Weingut Georg Breuer Rheingau
2002 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg

Caro Maurer: 2002 is the last vintage the late Georg Breuer made, his daughter Teresa was doing her “Abitur” (German Baccaloreat) in this year, Teresa sent the wine to the tasting in memory of her late father, Schlossberg is always magic, opulent in the nose, offers a lot on the palate, rather lean, rather compressed, but you get the length and this salty feeling, which can only come from a Schlossberg.

Dirk Würtz: Breues Schlossberg ist ein Monument in Sachen Riesling und perfekt auf dem Punkt.

Weingut St. Antony Rheinhessen
2002 Nierstein Ölberg VDP.Grosses Gewächs

Caro Maurer: A vineyard not too far away from the Schlossberg, on the other side of the river, upstream, comes from the Roter Hang (Red Slope).

Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier Rheinhessen
2002 Nieder-Flörsheim Frauenberg VDP.Grosses Gewächs

Caro Maurer: The winemaker H.O. Spanier used only healthy grapes, no botrytis affected grapes, but was trying to harvest as late as possible, still a very young wine, very fresh, nice acidity, which is well integrated into the fruit, a world class wine.

Picture: Carolin Gillot Spanier and H.O. Spanier, Weingut Kükling Gillot and Weingut Battenfeld Spanier

Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Pfalz
2002 Forst Ungeheuer G.C.

Caro Maurer: The Ungeheuer has South East exposure and very good drainage, one of the traditional family estates in Germany, with a long history, wine was made in a 700 liter Fuder, a typical representative of the Pfalz region, it is a more baroque style, a Rubens wine, with sexy curves.

Weingut Dr. Heger Baden
2002 Ihringen Winklerberg Spätlese

Caro Maurer: Baden is the most southern region in Germany, a fruity-sweet wine with 46 gr/RS, I would never have recognized this wine as a wine from Baden, love the citrus character in the nose, beautiful wine, you do not really taste the sweetness in the wine, a surprise to have such a wine in the tasting.

Picture: Joachim Heger with Helmut Dönnhoff, Martin Tesch and Klaus Zimmerling

Weingut Reinhold Haart Mosel
1996 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett

Caro Maurer: Kabinett is one of my favorites, because nobody else in the world can produce this style of wine, 58 gr/RS, a beautiful wine, light style, refreshing, you cannot copy it.

Dirk Würtz: Ganz ähnlich verhielt es sich mit dem 1996 Kabinett aus dem Piesporter Goldtröpfchen von Haart. Das geht auch kaum noch besser. Ein Wein mit Zug, den ich einfach nur trinken will, weil er alles das hat, was gereiften restsüßen Riesling ausmacht. Dieses Spiel, diese Harmonie und diese Unaufdringlichkeit sind einzigartig. Jeder Schluck ist der pure Genuss!

Weingut Fritz Allendorf Rheingau
1990 Winkel Jesuitengarten Auslese

Caro Maurer: 56 gr/RS (less than the previous Kabinett), good balance, has chocolate notes, ginger, spices.

Weingut Baron Knyphausen Rheingau
2004 Erbach Steinmorgen Spätlese

Picture: Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen with Wilhelm Weil and Steffen Christmann

Weingut St. Urbanshof Mosel
2002 Leiwen Laurentiulay Spätlese

Caro Maurer: Nic Weiss sent the wine saying: This wine represents the Mosel – enjoy the interplay between sugar and acidity, 79 gr/RS, you know it is a sweet wine, but you do not perceive it as a sweet wine, round mouthfeel.

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Ziliken Mosel
1993 Saarburg Rausch Spätlese

Caro Maurer: Very pure, a classic wine from the Mosel, peaches, apples, honey on the nose, very silky on the palate, light, salty taste in the finish, a wine which cannot be replicated anywhere else.

Weingut Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Rheingau
2002 Erbach Marcobrunn Auslese

Caro Maurer: Not much noble rot, quince, white peach, mince, apricot on the nose, honey and nuts on the palate, really nice, 91 gr/RS.

Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Mosel
1989 Scharzhofberger Auslese

Caro Maurer: Lots of botrytis, one of the most famous sites in Germany, spices, ginger, orange peel in the nose, this is about saltiness, soil and minerality, shows the elegance of the Scharzhofberg vineyard, 88 gr/RS.

Domäne Schloss Johannisberg Rheingau
1945 Schloss Johannisberg Rosalack Auslese

Caro Maurer: a war vintage, was extremely difficult to make this wine, you can smell the spices, beautiful wine.

Dirk Würtz: Da stand eine Auslese aus dem Jahr 1945 von Schloss Johannisberg auf dem Tisch. ein Wein, für dessen Beschreibung noch nicht die richtigen Worte erfunden sind. Taufrisch war er, annähernd jugendlich. Ein Hauch von Minze wehte aus dem Glas, die Süße war deutlich schmeckbar, die Säure perfekt. Sollte ich jemals Punkte für einen Wein geben wollen, dieser bekäme die Höchstpunktzahl.

Pictture: Christian Witte

Weingut Prinz von Hessen Rheingau
1994 Johannisberg Hasensprung Beerenauslese

Caro Maurer: Very spicy, raisins in the nose, beautiful, liquory texture with orange marmalade and spices on the palate, 150 gr/RS, high in alcohol, which adds to the aging potential.

Weingut G.H.Mumm Rheingau
1971 Johannisberg Schwarzenstein Beerenauslese

Caro Maurer: 1971 was a great vintage, ripe without getting fat, this is an aged wine, you can taste the oxidization, still lively, has some wonderful honey notes.

Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rheingau
1959 Steinberger Trockenbeerenauslese

Caro Maurer: 1959 was a good vintage, still a great pleasure for us to taste this wine, shows very well that Riesling can age.
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Picture: Dieter Greiner with Wilhelm Weil

Postings about the 2014 International Riesling Symposium on schiller-wine

This posting is part of a series about the 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany. Here is a list of the Postings already published and those still coming.

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
A Tour through the Rheingau - Visit of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Robert Weil, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg, Germany
Rieslings from the New World – More Traditional than Rieslings from the Old World? A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Stuart Pigott, Germany
The Grand Cru Couple from VDP.Grosse Lage – Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese. A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Giuseppe Lauria, Germany
Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route - A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Cornelius and Fabian Lange
Riesling and Aging Potential. A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Caro Maurer, MW, Germany

Wines and Winemakers from Australia and New Zealand at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany
Austrian Wines and Winemakers at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium in Germany (Rheingau)
Wines and Winemakers from the US and Canada at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany
German Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

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1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

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Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World – Snooth 2012

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Friday, August 15, 2014

Emerging Wine Producer The Netherlands

Picture: Typical Dutch Windmill in Ouddorp, South of Rotterdam in Zeeland

I visited The Netherlands for the first time when I was 5 years old. My parents had decided to spend the summer vacation at the Dutch beach town Noordwijk aan Zee in the west of the Netherlands; I learnt to swim there. Infrequent visits to The Netherlands followed, in particular after I met my wife, who comes from a German region which borders The Netherlands.

My interest in The Netherlands got a boost recently when my daughter Katharina accepted a position as junior researcher at the University of Wageningen. I started to do some research on winemaking in The Netherlands and recently visited one of the best winemakers of The Netherlands, Wijnhove De Kleine Schorre in Dreischor, Schouwen-Duiveland. A separate posting on Wijnhove De Kleine Schorreis will be released in due course.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller at Wijnhove De Kleine Schorre in Dreischor, Schouwen-Duiveland with Winemaker and Owner Johann van der Velde.

Wine in Holland? The Dutch climate is cool and damp, which is not conducive for producing premium-wines. Yet, over the past twenty years, Dutch viticulture has boomed, with farmers planting vineyards at a growing rate. The 2 main contributing factors are: The European climate's rewarming to Roman-era temperatures of 2,000 years ago and the development of new, colder climate-resistant hybrid grape cultivars. Still, now exceeding 200 hectares, Dutch wine production is negligible by international standards. In neighboring Germany, for example, the vineyard area totals 100.000 hectares.

Pictures: The Netherlands

Snooth on Dutch Wine: The climate in The Netherlands, or Holland, is too cool and damp to produce quality wine. However the Dutch have been very active in the European wine market through the centuries, with their geographic location perfectly positioned as a prime merchant port for German and French wines. In addition, the Dutch have heavily influenced the production of South African wines. The Dutch settled there in the 17th century and established many wineries throughout the country, and also the Koöperatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid-Afrika Bpkt (KWV) in 1918. First developed as massive wine cooperative, this became the regulating force in the South African Wine industry. But while wine is not a big Dutch export, the Netherlands is known for gin….

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Cornelia Schiller Tremann at the Beach

History

Adriana Stuijt: Two-thousand years ago, after Roman conqueror Julius Caesar invaded trans-Alpine Europe, his colonists planted extensive vineyards, also in the Netherlands. The climate must have been much warmer then: The ancient Roman grape vines required an annual temperature which should not drop below 23 Fahrenheit for too long: and any brisk freeze would usually kill these old Roman cultivars. Over the centuries, the temperatures in The Netherlands, even the most southerly province of Limburg where most of the vineyards were located, dropped to such an extent that most of the old Roman vineyards disappeared.

French-American Hybride Grapes

The Dutch wine industry was kick-started by the development of new hybrid cultivars. “These new varieties resist mildew diseases better, their grapes ripen quicker, they are more adapted to the Dutch climate,” says winemaker Job Huisman.

Here is a list of the most popular French American hybride grape varieties planted in the Netherlands. In addition, mainly in the Limburg area, winegrowers still cultivate the traditional vitis vinifera grape varieties (e.g. Riesling, Pinot Gris, Rivaner).

Leon Millot: Light, fruity Beaujolais-type wine.
Maréchal Foch: Light fruity Beaujolais-type wine.
Rubens: Riesling-type wine.
Melody: Pinot Blanc-type wine.
Rayon d'Or: Riesling-type wine.
Cabernet Cortis: Cabernet Sauvignon-type wine
Regent: Crossing between [(Silvaner and Muller Thurgau) x Chambourcin]. Red wine.
Solaris: A Merzling x (Saperavi Severny x Muscat Ottonel) cross. Chardonnay-type wine.
Johanniter: Riesling-type wine.

Imports

At 22 liters, per capita wine consumption is about at the level of Germany and half of France. Practically all of it is imported. 30 years ago, the wine market was dominated by French wine, with a market share of over 70 percent. The French wine consumption has dropped to 30 percent, but still is #1. South Africa is #2, with 22%. Chile is doing well, with a share of 9 percent now, slightly ahead of Germany which is at 8 percent and on a downward trend.

The Future of Dutch Winemaking

“Fifteen years ago when I tasted Dutch wine, it was simply undrinkable,” says Nicolaas Klei, a Dutch wine specialist who has written several books on the subject. Klei, though, remains sceptical about the quality of Dutch-made wines. “Actually, I would say it’s not bad to drink … in the best case,” but he argues that new varieties cannot rival the classics. “We must be realistic, there will never be a great wine made in The Netherlands.”

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