Thursday, November 23, 2017

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Venice, Italy

Picture: Christian Schiller at Caffe Florian on Piazza San Marco in Venice

Venice is among the world's most urban cities: a crowded aggregate of houses, palazzi, churches, squares, and other manmade structures, with few public green spaces to relieve a landscape dominated by stone, brick, and stuccoed walls. What most visitors don't realize is that Venice is surrounded by one of the most ecologically rich bodies of water in the Mediterranean: the Laguna Veneta, or Venetian Lagoon.

Pictures: Venetian Lagoon

The other thing that most visitors do not associate with Venice is that Venice has a strong wine bar culture.

Saveur: Venetian wine bar culture is centuries-old, its existence predicated in part on three famous, neighboring regions—Soave, Prosecco, and Valpolicella—channeling their goods through the floating city. To deliver that wine to thirsty residents, the city enjoys a robust web of diminutive bars called bacari (bacaro is the singular), spread across Venice’s labyrinth of alleyways. Often standing-room-only, they serve a daily selection of small bites called cicchetti, akin to the tapas of Madrid or the pintxos of Basque country, along with glasses of regional wine referred to as ombre. Traditionally, bacari catered to a working-class audience looking to graze affordably while hopping from bar to bar. The wines were simple and rustic, the ambience (and hospitality), varying shades of charming.

Pictures: In Venice

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Venice

Osteria AE forcoe
Castello 5377, Calle Bande Castello

A typical neighborhood wine bar in Venice.


Enoteca Mascareta
Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, 5183

Leslie Rosa: On the border of the sestieri San Marco and Castello, tucked away down a narrow calle off Campo Santa Maria Formosa, is perhaps the most famous wine bar in all of Venice, not only for the excellent wines, but for its owner and personality-at-large Mauro Lorenzon. With a colorful, hand-painted bowtie and leather apron, Lorenzon or one of his staff at Enoteca Mascareta will help you choose one of their exceptional organic wines by the glass—the only kind they serve. Stay for a plate of sliced meats and cheeses, or make a reservation for a dinner you won’t soon forget. (Bonus tip: With over 70 types of gin and 25 different types of tonic—not to mention the endless embellishments like marinated, chopped basil—their gin and tonics are true works of art.)

Al Merca
Campo Bella Vienna, 213

ApproachGuides: Al Marca (Campo Cesare Battisti, near the fish market, just off the Rialto bridge in San Polo). Perhaps our favorite in the city. Good for wine, aperitifs (try the local favorite: spritz con Aperol or Campari), and mini sandwiches with wine in the evening and coffee in the morning. Stand outside in the campo with the rest of the crowd — this bar is just a hole in the wall place.

Al Timon
Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2754

Leslie Rosa: In Cannaregio, a mostly residential sestiere (neighborhood) at the northwest of Venice, there exists a magical stretch of bars and restaurants along the Fondamenta Misericordia/ Ormesini. Two wines bars in particular hold court here: Al Timon and Vino Vero. Al Timon—one of the best restaurants in Venice if you want to take a break from feasting on fish and sink your teeth into a perfectly cooked piece of Italian beef—has a lively wine bar with around 20 different wines by the glass (mostly wines from the Veneto, but other Italian regions are represented too) and a nice selection of cicchetti (Venetian tapas). Grab a glass of Valpolicella and a plate of cicchetti and enjoy them on one of the outside tables or on their flatbed boat docked alongside the restaurant.

Vino Vero
Fondamenta Misericordia, 2497

Leslie Rosa: Vino Vero, a small, upscale wine bar, has a wine list that concentrates on small, mostly organic producers from various regions in Italy. Try a glass of Zeno, a unique Sangiovese-Pinot Noir blend from the owners’ Tuscan winery Voltumna, or perhaps a glass of bubbles in the form of Franciacorta from Veneto’s neighbor, Lombardy. Vino Vero’s display of gourmet cicchetti will have your mouth watering in no time, but don’t spoil your appetite -- this area has the highest concentration of exceptional restaurants in Venice such as Anice Stellato, Da Rioba, and Osteria d’Orto dei Mori to name a few.

Enoteca Al Volto
Al Volto, Calle Cavalli 4081

CiaoItaly: Al Volto is the oldest wine bar in Venice and is definitely one for wine lovers. Located just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this bar also has a sense of history, having been in business since 1936. The bar’s atmosphere is very relaxing and welcoming. The drinks menu shows that it has access to around 1,000 wines from Italy and overseas – but obviously they are not all available at the same time. The owners offer a selection each day, which means if you visit more than once, you will be sure to find something different.


Harry’s Bar
Calle Vallaresso, 1323, 30124 San Marco, Venice Italy

CiaoItaly: No list of Venice wine bar tips would be complete without mention of Harrys Bar. It is a Venetian institution. Situated on the waterfront at St. Mark’s, it offers the visitor a sense of history as well as a warm welcome. It can be pricey – but I love it for the story it carries. The founder, Giuseppe Cipriani, had once known a young American socialite called Harry Pickering who frequented the bar he tended at Hotel Europa. When Pickering stopped drinking at the bar, Giuseppe noticed his absence and asked him why. Apparently Pickering’s family didn’t like his drinking habits so cut him off financially. Realising Harry Pickering was broke; Giuseppe offered him a loan of 10,000 lire. Two years later, Harry returned to pay him back and gave him 40,000 extra lire as a thank you - enough to open a bar. And of course, he asked him to call it Harry’s Bar. As you might expect, it’s had many famous patrons over the years including Charlie Chaplin, Earnest Hemingway, Orson Welles, and Aristotle Onassis.


Bar Canale on the Grand Canal
The Bauers Venezia, San Marco 1459

CiaoItaly: This sophisticated bar is situated in the 5 star Bauers L’Hotel. Overlooking the Grand Canal, the Bar Canale has a lovely outdoor terrace from where you can enjoy the peace and wonderful views of Venice, her canal and the gondoliers sailing by. It is wonderfully atmospheric – particularly at sunset in the summer. It’s a sophisticated bar, full of charm and although it’s a wonderful place to relax, being there is an experience in itself.


Caffe Florian
Piazza San Marco

CiaoItaly: Now – at the other end of the scale is Caffe Florian. It has been a café on Piazza San Marco since the early 18th century. But away from the coffee and cakes, there is a bar area at the back of the building, where you will pay less for service and where you can watch the highly skilled bar tenders prepare sumptuous cocktails.


Cantina do Mori
Sestiere San Polo, 429

Lauren Mowery: You come for the atmospheric, rather than gastronomic, experience. This Venetian institution has been in business continually since 1462, and looks like it with its dark walls and begrimed ceiling adorned in copper pots. Postage-stamp-sized bites called francobolli sell out by afternoon, but inexpensive, young wine flows from demijohns until early evening.

Alla Vedova

Lauren Mowery: “No wine bar tour,” explains Bisol, “is complete without a stop at a classic Venetian bacari like Alla Vedova.” Tourists and residents patiently pile into the front bar of this old-fashioned osteria, to sample the city’s most renowned polpette—a crispy, fried pork meatball – and wash it down with multiple glasses of prosecco. Eat, drink, and repeat.

Osteria al Squero
Dorsoduro, 943-944

CiaoItaly: Situated in Dorsoduro, Osteria al Squero is a lovely wine bar that is incredibly reasonable and serves some lovely cicheti – which are small snacks. Interestingly, this bar is opposite a working gondola yard called the Squero di san Trovaso – the oldest one in Venice. And as you can sit outside by the Canal, it’s wonderful to watch the master craftsmen at work. It’s one of the few remaining windows into the old, traditional Venice.

Bacareto da Lele
Campo dei Tolentini, Santa Croce 1832

CiaoItaly: This is another institution and it’s very popular with those who live and work in Venice. You will find many locals here after work. It lives up to its name and is quite a small bar, but it has space outside, which has a lovely atmosphere too. So it’s great if you want to get away from the bars which visitors are more likely to frequent. And, what is more – the prices are incredibly reasonable for wine and also for cicheti.

Enoteca da Severino (in Padova)
Via del Santo, 44, 35123 Padova PD


Postings in Connection with the Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists(AAWE) in Italy, 2017

I am preparing 4 postings:

Venice, Padua and the Wines of Veneto: Annual Conference of the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) in Italy, 2017
Visiting the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Region, Italy
Winemaking in the Venetian Lagoon: Orto di Venezia, with Owner/ Winemaker Michel Thoulouze, Italy

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Venice, Italy

Schiller’s Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2014, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne
Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA (2017)
Schiller's Favorite (Seafood) Restaurants in Rehoboth, Delaware, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, Washington State, USA - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA (2013)
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Restaurants in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa
Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar



Wednesday, November 22, 2017

Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: At Basilica Birnau at Lake Constance

Weingut Markgraf von Baden comprises 2 estates: Schloss Salem in the Lake Constance Region and Schloss Staufenberg in the Ortenau, both in the Baden Region. We spent a full day at Schloss Salem. We started in the morning with a tour of Schloss Salem, followed by lunch at Restaurant Zum Schwanen on the grounds of Schloss Salem. In the afternoon, we visited the Schloss Salem Estate of Weingut Markgraf von Baden. On the way back to the hotel we stopped at Kirche Birnau. In the evening, we took a stroll through Meersburg and enjoyed the incredible charm of Meersburg and Lake Constance.

Lake Constance

Lake Constance - in German: Bodensee - is shared by Germany, Switzerland and Austria. The largest City on the lake is Constance - in German: Konstanz. On the Swiss side is the Canton of Thurgau, where the grape variety Müller Thurgau comes from, created by Hermann Müller in 1882. The Austrian part does not have much wine, if any; the wine regions of Austria are on the other side of the country, in the east.

Picture: Lake Constance in the South of Germany, with Swiss Mountains

See also: The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany – The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Salem

Schloss Salem is an impressive ensemble of majestic buildings. It was founded as a Cistercian Abbey in 1134, when Bernard de Clairvaux ventured from his home base Burgundy to establish Cistercian monasteries on the eastern banks of the Rhine river. In a very short time Salem Abbey developed into one of the leading abbeys in southern Germany.

Pictures: Touring Salem Castle/ Abbey

Salem Abbey experienced a second period of affluence during the Baroque era. It is fascinating to see the Gothic buildings, in particular the cathedral decorated with its unique alabaster plasterwork and the ornately Baroque style decorated rooms in the Palace.

After secularization during the Napoleonic era, Salem came into the possession of the Markgraf von Baden, the ruler of the Kingdom of Baden, and became Schloss Salem.

In the early 2000, Margrave of Baden sold Schloss Salem to the State of Baden Württemberg. But he retained all vineyards. The cellars and other parts of the Schloss Salem he uses for winemaing, are long-term leased from the State of Baden Wurttemberg.

Pictures: Touring Salem Castle/ Abbey

Schloss Salem is also home of the prestigious boarding school Schule Schloss Salem. Kurt Hahn, a respected educator, who later was instrumental in establishing the International School system and the IB (International Baccaleurate) founded the school in 1920 with support of Prince Max of Baden. The student dorms are in the former monk cells and the monk’s spirit and simplicity of life can still be felt today.

Winemaking at Salem

For many centuries, the church was the only one dominant force in the wine industry at Lake Constance and from 1134, when Salem Abbey was founded by Cistercian monks, until Napoleon’s secularization in 1802, and Salem Abbey was a center of winemaking in the region.

Pictures: Winemaking at Salem Abbeyin the Middle Ages

In 1802, Salem Abbey passed into the hand of the ruler of Baden, the Margrave of Baden, and became Schloss Salem. (Similarly, the Staatsweingut Meersburg, owned by the Prince-Bishop of Constance at that time, also passed into the hands of the Margrave von Baden during Napoleon’s secularization in 1802.)

Before the secularization, when the Margrave of Baden became the owner of both the Salem and the Meersburg abbeys, including the vineyards, the House of Baden was completely absent from the Lake Constance area, as far as winemaking is concerned. The original base of the House of Baden is Schloss Staufenberg in the Ortenau, with 25 hectares of vineyard land.

While the Government of (the State of) Baden, as the successor of the Grand Duchy of Baden, took over the Staatsweingut Meersburg in 1918, it did not take over Schloss Salem, which became the private property of the Margrave of Baden.

In the Federal Republic of Germany of today, the states of Baden and Wuettemberg have been merged to form the State of Baden Wuerttemberg. In the early 2000, the Margrave of Baden sold Schloss Salem to the State of Baden Wuerttemberg. But he retained all vineyards. The cellars and other parts of the Schloss Salem he uses, are long-term leased from the State of Baden Wuerttemberg.

Pictures: Weingut Markgraf von Baden/ Schloss Salem

Weingut Markgraf von Baden

The House of Baden is deeply rooted into wine making. It owns estates in two different wine districts of Baden: In the Ortenau and in the Lake Constance regions.

Picture: Tasting List - Weingut Markgraf von Baden/ Schloss Salem

The vineyard area of Schloss Salem totals 110 hectares in Bermatingen, Birnau and Schloss Kirchberg. Varieties planted here are mainly Müller-Thurgau and Pinot Noir (for Weißherbst/blanc de Noir). The wines are produced at Schloss Salem. Also, bottle-fermented sparkling wines, perlé wines and spirits are also produced. In addition, there are about 10 hectares of vineyard area along the Rhein river, close to the Swiss border.

Pictures: White Wine Tasting

The von Baden family had a decisive influence on viticulture in Baden. Großherzog (grand duke) Carl-Friedrich von Baden (1738-1811) is regarded as the creator of quality wine production in Baden. In 1782, he brought in 3.500 Riesling vines from the Rheingau region. These were planted as a single variety for the first time at the Grossherzog’s Klingelberg property. In the 1920s, the Margrave of Baden was the first estate in Baden to show faith in the new variety Müller-Thurgau. Since 1998, Bernhard Prinz von Baden has continued the viticultural tradition and manages the Schloss Salem Estate. He also lives there.

Pictures: Red Wine Tasting

The original base of the von Baden family is Schloss Staufenberg in the Ortenau, with 25 hectares of vineyard land. This were the only vineyards of the von Baden family until they received the Lake Constanze vineyards as part of Napoleon’s secularization.

Schloss Salem, Germany
Owner: S.K.H. Bernhard Prinz von Baden
Managers: Sebastian Beemelmans and Volker Faust
Managing director: S.K.H. Bernhard Prinz von Baden
Cellar master: Martin Kölble
www.markgraf-von-baden.de

Lunch

We had lunch at Restaurant Zm Schwanen on the grounds of Schloss Salem.

Pictures: Lunch at Restaurant Zum Schwanen

Basilica Birnau

The Basilica Birnau is a Baroque jewel and sits majestically on a hill high above Lake Constance. It was built in 1749 and has been a pilgrimage church since then. The interior is richly decorated in the Rococo style and the church is one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in all of Germany, not least because of its unrivalled position overlooking Lake Constance and its surrounding vineyards. The church is still in the hands of the Cistercian monks.

Pictures: At Basilica Birnau at Lake Constanze

Back in Meersburg

In the evening, we took a stroll through Meersburg and enjoyed the incredible charm of Meersburg and Lake Constance.

Picture: Romantik Hotel Residenz am See in Meersburg

Pictures: Staatsweingut Meersburg

Pictures: Meersburg

Pictures: At Weinhaus Hanser in Meersburg

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany – The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markgraf von Baden in Salem, Baden

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Löffler in Wettenberg, Markgräfler Land, Baden, with Hannes Glöckner of the Löffler Family and Founder Wolfgang Löffler

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stigler in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Andreas and Maximilian Stigler

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace

Lunch in Alsace: Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim and Bistro L’Epicurien in Colmar

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jülg in Schweigen, Pfalz, with Johannes Jülg

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Valentin Rebholz and Stephanie Wagner

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg – Lothar Kesseler & Söhne in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Friedrich and Gunter Kesseler

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Philipp Wittmann

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum