We left Meersburg at Lake Constance at 8:00 am after an early breakfast to cross again the Black Forest to arrive at 11:00 am in the Rhine plains at Weingut Löffler in the Markgräfler Land for a tour and tasting. Following the visit of Weingut Löffler we had lunch Restaurant Zum Löwen in Staufen.
Hannes Glöckner of the Löffler family hosted us at Weingut Löffler. We also met founder Wolfgang Löffler in the cellar.
Weingut Löffler
The Löffler family is a typical Markgräfler family. Four generations are living and working together to produce excellent wines and to run the „Strausse“, a seasonal wine tavern. They farm 35 acres of vineyards planted with Burgundy grapes, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gutedel. Gutedel is more known under the name „Chasselat“ or „Fendant“ as the signature white grape varietal of Switzerland. Gutedel has also become the signature grape of its close neighbor, the Markgräfler Land. It is regarded as oldest known grape variety, grown in Egypt 5000 years ago. In the late 18 hundreds the Chasselat grape was brought from Vervey, Switzerland to the Markgräfler Land.
The Surprising Wines of Markgräflerland
winerambler.net (Simon Jones): For many motorists – and notoriously those with big German-made cars – the final stretch of the A5 motorway from Freiburg to Basel represents the last chance to rev up before Swiss speed restrictions kick in. Markgräflerland, the region they pass through, is but a blur and an after-thought. Twas always thus down here in Germany's forgotten corner – situated the farthest from Berlin, out of sight, out of mind. Yet in wine terms, among other things, we should be taking Markgräflerland more seriously. The region is not only home to Gutedel – one of the world's oldest grape varieties – but also boasts an increasingly impressive array of Pinots (Spätburgunder, Weißburgunder, Grauburgunder), the best of which are knocking on the door to the big league.
Like much of the rest of native Baden, wine cooperatives still dominate Markgräflerland, and this limits the region's consumer pull to a certain extent. Efforts on the marketing side – which the region's cooperatives help to subsidise – are also twee and unimaginative, to say the least. However, Markgräflerland's trump card is its cluster of Michelin-starred restaurants which are a magnet for lovers of fine dining particularly from the Swiss side of the nearby border triangle. Visit any quality Markgräfler dining establishment on a Sunday within the vicinity of Basel, for example, and you will invariably hear a good smattering of Baseldytsch. The region's more quality-conscious wine estates have been able to ride this culinary wave to good effect.
Gutedel is unashamedly the white grape variety of Markgräflerland. Much misunderstood – and better known under its "Chasselas" title in Switzerland, where it is the source of Fendant – it produces the wines which best reflect the nature of the region and its people, I feel: easily accessible, good-natured, yet with a surprising complexity that slowly creeps up on you. It took me a while to "get" Gutedel. Once you do, it can be surprisingly addictive. The flavour profile often hints at nuts with mild acidity. Top examples also show creamy freshness and lovely elegance. These wines are unique in Germany, but yield-cutting is essential to achieve good results. (NB: Not to be mistaken for Roter Gutedel, its obscure variant, which doesn't produce red wines but very nondescript rosés instead.)
Like much of Baden, Spätburgunder rules the roost as far as reds are concerned. The best the region has to offer can easily rival the Kaiserstuhl. In order from north to south, notable Pinot Noirs include those from Fritz Waßmer and Martin Waßmer (brothers with separate operations in Bad Krozingen-Schlatt on the river plain but with privileged plots on the slopes to the east, or, in Fritz's case, to the north-east in Northern Breisgau), Schlumberger from Laufen, Ziereisen from Efringen-Kirchen and Schneider from Weil am Rhein.
Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris also deserve attention. In particular, they thrive on the chalky terroir such as that found near Basel (Weiler Schlipf, Efringer Ölberg). Put them in a blind tasting with some better-known French examples from across the Rhine, and prepare to be surprised. The local Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are definitely worth a try too.
Lunch at Restaurant Zum Löwen in Staufen, Markgräfler Land, Baden
Staufen is an incredibly picturesque village with the romantic Schlossberg, with it’s ruin on top and vineyards on the slopes. Time seems to have come to a standstill here.
schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany – The Case of the Lake Constance Region
Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate
Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Löffler in Wettenberg, Markgräfler Land, Baden, with Hannes Glöckner of the Löffler Family and Founder Wolfgang Löffler
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stigler in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Andreas and Maximilian Stigler
Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
The World Class Wines of Alsace
In the world class white wine region Alsace
Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace
Lunch in Alsace: Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim and Bistro L’Epicurien in Colmar
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel
Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle
Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jülg in Schweigen, Pfalz, with Johannes Jülg
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg
Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Valentin Rebholz and Stephanie Wagner
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg – Lothar Kesseler & Söhne in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Friedrich and Gunter Kesseler
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings
Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs
Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Philipp Wittmann
Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe
Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum
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