Meeting a Rhone Ranger and Tasting His Wines - Sherman Thacher from Paso Robles in California

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Rhone Ranger Sherman Thacher

The Rhone Rangers is a group of winemakers in the US that dedicate themselves to the grapes whose ancestral home is in France's Rhone Valley. I was happy to meet one of them – Sherman Thacher from Thacher Vineyards in Paso Robles, California – recently at Screwtop Wine Bar in Virginia.

WeinRallye #44

This posting is part of WeinRallye #44, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "The Rhone – the River, the Wines, the Winemakers". Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany. The first wine rally took place in 2007. Thomas Lippert is the author of the wine blog Winzerblog. This month's wine rally is organized by Christoph Raffelt, author of orginalverkorkt.

The Rhone Rangers

The Rhone Rangers are a group of winemakers who promote the use of grape varieties from the Rhône Valley in the US. They are mostly based in the Central Coast of California, but also in other parts of the US. In particular, the Rhone Rangers are considered a catalyst in making Syrah more prevalent on the Californian wine landscape. In the 1980s, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard and Bob Lindquist of Qupé Wine Cellars began popularizing the marketing of the Rhône varietals.

The French government recognizes 22 varieties in the various appellations that comprise this large and diverse wine-growing region. Rhone Appellations, including Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Condrieu, Chateuneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Bandol and Cotes du Rhone each choose a different subset from the collection of these 22 grapes.

Picture: Screwtop's Owner Wendy Buckley with Sherman Thacher

The most common red Rhone varietals are Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre, with Syrah predominant in the Northern Rhone and Grenache in the Southern Rhone. Other relatively common red grapes include Cinsault, Carignan, and Petite Sirah. The Rhone Rangers have also adopted Zinfandel as a "cousin" grape. The principal white Rhone varietals are Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, each found throughout the Rhone Valley, with Grenache Blanc a widely planted but less well known contributor in the Southern Rhone.

Paso Robles

Thacher Vineyards is in the Paso Robles American Viticulture Area (AVA), which is located midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles on California’s central coast. More than 26,000 acres are planted to vineyards that provide fruit for Paso Robles wineries and others throughout the state. Today there are more than 170 wineries.

Thacher Winery

Since 2004, the Thacher Winery - with the grasshopper label - has been hand-crafting wines from vineyards found on the Westside of Paso Robles and in Southern Monterey County. It is a boutique winery that specializes on Rhone blends and Zinfandels. Currently, Thacher Winery produces 1800 cases.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Sherman Thacher

Thacher Winery is a family operation of Sherman Thacher and his wife Michelle. Sherman started as a brewer and became an award winning brewmaster; but he is now a very successful winemaker. “I may do something with apples and produce hard cider in the future” said Sherman. As a big fan of applewine from Frankfurt am Main, Germany, I am looking forward to this.

Sherman is buying all the fruit and “that will remain so” he said. He is no intentions of growing vine. This dichotomy between vine growing and wine making is very common in the US, but had to comprehend from an European perspective. “I will always buy – it is like buying different spices” said Sherman.

“I like to pick at 24.5% Brix, as most people in the region do” said Sherman. This equivalent to 103.3 degree Oechsle, and according to the German classification at the Auslese level.

The Wines We Tasted

Here are the wines we tasted, including winemaker comments.

Picture: The Thacher wines we tasted

2009 VIOGNIER

100% Viognier from Hastings Ranch Vineyard, Paso Robles

This Rhone varietal is crisp with a nose of green apple and flavors of grilled pineapple. A very refreshing wine and great with anything spicy. This wine is clear and bright, with a medium lemon core fading to a pale lemon-gold rim. Legs are present, and are fast and thin. On the nose, this wine is clean, with medium plus intense developing aromas. These include candied lemon peel, jasmine perfume, ripe peach, rosehips, incense, tangerine zest, and banana candy. Very fresh and complex. On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium plus intense rich body, medium integrated alcohol, medium supporting acid and medium plus intense flavors. These include ripe yellow peach, peach skin, lemon drops, rosehips, baking spice, heavy cream, banana, pineapple and other tropical fruits. The finish is long with lasting richness attributable to a balance between a viscous body and a depth of ripe fruit. This wine is drinking wonderfully right now, and will hold for another 1-2 years before flavors mute.

2006 ZINFANDEL

100% Zinfandel from two westside vineyards; 85% Je T’aime Vineyard and 15% Hastings Ranch Vineyard.

This wine is clear, with a medium intense ruby core, fading to a pale ruby edge and water-white rim. Legs are medium and fast to form with faint saturation of color. On the nose, this wine is clean and developing. Aromas are complex and medium plus in intensity. They include Bing cherry, cranberry,dried cranberry, red currant, toffee, smoke, hibiscus tea, leather and oak spice.

On the palate, this wine is dry. It has medium intense structural tannin, medium silky body, medium plus spicy alcohol and medium acid.The flavors are medium plus intense, and include cherry cola, dried cranberries, baking spice, cedar, tobacco, baked berry crisp, molasses and vanilla. The finish is long, and has lasting ripe berry flavors balanced by piquant alcohol and tannin. This wine is ready to drink, and will age for 3-4 years before becoming fully developed.

2007 SYRAH

100% Syrah from Coast View Vineyard, Monterey County

This wine is clear and bright, with a deeply intense shiny purple core, fading to a medium purple rim. Legs are slow and sheeting, with saturated purple color. On the nose, this wine is clean and developing, with medium plus intense aromas of ripe black cherries, French roast coffee beans, vanilla, cedar, plum sauce, cocoa nibs, tar and cola. On the palate this wine is dry, with medium plus firm tannin, medium plus spicy alcohol, medium plus filling body, and medium acid. Flavors are medium plus intense, and include ripe black cherries, vanilla extract, cedar, roasted coffee, black huckleberries, cola, cinnamon and Chinese five-spice. The finish is very long and supported. Firm tannins carry throughout, with dense chocolate and black fruit flavors. Acid to balance. Outstanding. This wine is ready to drink, but has enough structure, depth and complexity of elements to last 5-7 more years.

2007 CONTROLLED CHAOS

42% Zinfandel, 37% Mouvedre and 21% Grenache

All three varietals picked from westside Paso Robles vineyards. This wine is clear and bright, with a medium plus intense ruby core fading to a pale ruby rim. On the nose this wine is clean and developing, with medium plus intense unctuous aromas of red and black plums, black cherry, strawberry jam, crushed black pepper, cedar, pan grille, roast meat and vanilla. Very complex.

On the palate, this wine is dry, with a medium plus body, spicy alcohol, generous chalky tannin, and acid to balance. The flavors are very intense, showcasing black cherry, black berry, strawberry jam, crushed peppercorn, cassis, chalk, black morel mushrooms, grilled meat and warm oak. The finish is long, with complex flavors balanced by lingering firm and integrated tannin.

This wine is ready to drink, but would benefit from 1-2 years in bottle, or a splash decant. It will hold for 4-6 years, maintaining its fruit and tannin throughout. Overall, an outstanding wine.

2008 TRIUMVIRATE RESERVE ZINFANDEL

100% Zinfandel from the best of three west side vineyards; Bailey Ranch, Je T'aime Vineyard & Will's Hills Vineyard

This wine is clear and bright, with a deep garnet core and water white rim. Legs are saturated with color and are thick and slow to develop. On the nose, this wine is clean and developing, with intense aromas of blackberry, raspberry, cherry jam, dried plums, currants, sweet spice, toast, licorice and vanilla cream. On the palate, this wine is dry, with a medium plus rich body, medium plus integrated alcohol, medium acid, and medium plus flavors of blackberry pie filling, framboise, strawberry, Flor de Jamaica, sweet oak, and cedar. The finish is long and delicious, characterized by lingering fine tannin and ripe berry and wood flavors.

This wine is ready to drink, but becomes much more generous after decant. It will hold for 4-6 years, aging on structured tannin and an abundance of ripe fruit.

2008 GSM Central Coast

42% Grenache, 38% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre



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Meeting Lori and Steve Felten from Klinker Brick Winery in Lodi, California and Tasting Their Delicious Zinfandels

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Lori and Steve Felten from Klinker Brick Winery in Lodi, California

I had been to Lodi in California last year, when I visited my daughter in Berkeley, but I had not visited Klinker Brick Winery - named after prized bricks that adorn homes in Lodi – nor had I tasted their wines. So, I was thrilled when I could sample the Klinker Brick Old Vine and Old Ghost Premium Zinfandels at the Curious Grape Wine Store in Arlington Virginia and talk about the wines to Klinker Brick owners and fifth generation grape-growers Steve and Lori Felten.

Lodi in California

The Lodi wine region is located between the San Francisco Bay Area and the Sierra Nevada Foothills. It is famous for their older vines which produce their world famous Zinfandels. Lodi has been a major winegrowing region since the 1850s. Grapes were always part of the local landscape, growing wild, dangling from the trees along the riverbanks. Early trappers called one stream “Wine Creek,” due to the abundance of wild vines. Today, more than 750 growers and about 60 wineries are located in this picturesque rural area. With 500.000 acres, it is one of the largest appellations of California, about double the size of Germany. Lodi has a Mediterranean climate, with warm, dry summers and cool, moist winters. Deep, sandy clay loam soils predominate.

Picture: California's Wine Regions

California accounts for nearly 90 percent of the American wine production. The first wineries were established by missionaries in the South of California. The Gold Rush in the mid-19th century brought waves of new settlers to California. At the turn of the 20th century, nearly 800 wineries existed in California and worldwide recognition seemed imminent, when Prohibition hit the industry in 1920. By the time that Prohibition was repealed in 1933 under President Franklin Roosevelt, only 140 wineries were still operating in California. Californian re-entered the international stage at the 1976 Judgment of Paris wine competition, when Californian wines beat out French wines in both red and white wine categories. Today, there are more than 1,200 wineries in the State, ranging from small boutique wineries to large corporations. In general, by German or French standards, American wineries are large.

Zinfandel

Lodi focuses on Zinfandel but also produces Syrah wine. Zinfandel is a red grape variety planted in over 10 percent of California vineyards. It was long considered to be the “American Grape”. But new research revealed that it is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski, and also the Primitivo variety traditionally grown in the "heel" of Italy, where it was introduced in the 1700s. The grape found its way to the United States in the mid-19th century.

The arrival of Zinfandel in the US may have been via the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria, which likely obtained the vines during the Habsburg Monarchy's rule over Croatia. After World War II, medium sweet White Zinfandel became immensely popular in the US. At the end of the end of the 20th century, red Zinfandel wines came back into fashion.

Klinker Brick Winery

Steve and Lori Felten, fifth generation grape growers in the Lodi region, continue the tradition of cultivating “Old Vine” Zinfandel vineyards that their ancestors planted in the early 1900’s.

With roots in Germany and Russia, the family settled in Lodi, first producing watermelons. Recognizing that the soil and climate were ideal for growing grapes, they began to plant varieties that included Zinfandel, Tokay, Carignane, and Alicante. For over one hundred years, the family has cultivated the land with the aim of producing top quality fruit. Zinfandel was one of the first grape varieties to be planted in the Lodi appellation, although it had also been established in other parts of the California.

In 1996, the Felten family began to produce Zinfandel for the bulk wine market. In 2000, Steve and Lori made the decision to start their own winery with the mission to produce exceptional Zinfandel. They continue to make wine from all of the vineyard blocks, culling only the very best lots for bottling Klinker Brick and designated vineyard wines. They produced their first Syrah in 2001.

The Vineyard

The Felten Family own and manage fifteen individual vineyard blocks of “Old Vine” Zinfandel that range in age from 35 to 110 years old. Each vineyard is planted in sandy loam soils along the Lodi Mokelumne River Region and up into the Clements Foothills. These vineyards are generally head-trained and dry farmed, yielding an average of 2.0 to 3.5 ton per acre. Some of the oldest vineyards have yields as small as 0.25 ton per acre. While there are significant limitations in the quantity of grapes produced, the quality of fruit is exceptional. The grapes come from several different vineyards within the Lodi Appellation, depending upon the highest quality of fruit produced each year, and has included several vineyards in the Mokelumne and in the Clements Hills region. The vineyard area totals 400 acres.

The Wines

Lodi has a very small portfolio; it produces only 3 wines. I was able to taste the 2 Zindfandels, but not the Syrah. The notes below are winemaker notes.

2008 Klinker Brick, Old Vine Zinfandel

This wine offers aromas of black cherries and fresh strawberries and toasty oak. On the palate, there are layers of dark fruit intermingled with sweet vanilla and spice. Smooth and long, lingering finish.
Aged in American oak. 20.000 cases. National Retail Price: $19.99

2008 Klinker Brick, Old Ghost, Old Vine Zinfandel

The 2008 Old Ghost is a blend of two old vine zinfandel vineyards, 89 and 98 years old. Yields were well under one ton per acre. The wine has exotic spices of cardamom and black pepper on the nose, infused with bright, black cherry fruit. On the palate, it is rich, round and full-bodied with flavors of brambleberry and chocolate covered cherries yielding to a long and lingering finish.
Aged in American oak. 1500 cases. National Retail Price: $39.99

2008 Klinker Brick Syrah Farrah

The wine is named after Steve and Lori Felten's daughter, Farrah. A single vineyard wine with a deep, rich garnet color. It shows tobacco, mint and cherries on the nose. With dense silky layers of raspberry and chocolate, this full-bodied wine finishes with hints of earth and spice with a long, smooth finish.
100% Syrah, aged in new French oak. 5000 cases National Retail Price: $19.99

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Drinking Zinfandel on Global Zinfandel Day

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller drinking Zinfadel with (from top to bottom) Dan Duckhorn, Pete Seghesio Jr. and Harry Wetzel, all at Pearson's in Washington DC

Global Zinfandel Day

Today is Global Zinfandel Day. “It’ is a 24-hour event for wine lovers to explore Zinfandel, the uniquely American varietal that pairs well with a wide array of foods,” explains organizer Chris Oggenfuss. “For our premiere Zinfandel Day we envision people around the world tasting Zinfandels and sharing their recommendations, whether with friends at home or in the virtual global community via #Zinfandel on social media sites,” he adds.

Zinfandel is a red grape variety planted in over 10 percent of California vineyards. It was long considered to be the “American Grape”. But new research revealed that it is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski, and also the Primitivo variety traditionally grown in the "heel" of Italy, where it was introduced in the 1700s. The grape found its way to the United States in the mid-19th century.

The arrival of Zinfandel in the US may have been via the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria, which likely obtained the vines during the Habsburg Monarchy's rule over Croatia. After World War II, medium sweet White Zinfandel became immensely popular in the US. At the end of the end of the 20th century, red Zinfandel wines came back into fashion.

Zinfandel Day is a great way for wine lovers world-wide to share food pairing recommendations, plans for the holidays, or travel tips for visiting Zinfandel wineries in California. Participants can register at http://zinfandel.eventbrite.com or http://www.meetup.com/zinfandel/ Travelers who would like to visit participating Zinfandel Day wineries in person today, find a list of participating wineries on these sites as well. For the foodie interested in sharing food pairing ideas with friends, log on to http://www.zinfandelic.com/zinfandel-wine-food-pairing.html.

The organizers of Zinfandel Day encourage people to share these links and set up tastings with friends, wherever they may be. People can follow along on Twitter by using Twitter management software such as HootSuite or Tweetdeck and set up a search column for #zinfandel, the hashtag to use to keep up with fellow Zinfandel fans from around the globe. People can also participate via Facebook, Ustream or other networks.

My Favorite Zinfandels

Here are my three favorite Zinfandels.

Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma 2008

Pete Seghesio: Our family roots are firmly planted in Zinfandel, as our great-grandfather, Eduardo Seghesio, first planted this intriguing varietal on our Alexander Valley Home Ranch in 1895. Today, we share his passion and, reverently, farm over 250 acres of estate Zinfandel in Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys. This wine combines sites that have produced Zinfandel for over a century with newer sites that utilize proprietary clones and the most advanced viticultural practices. Climatic-induced spicy undertones mark the 2008 vintage. Vibrant display of acidity enhances the briary raspberry and blackberry varietal expression. Lush, velvety mouth feel interwoven with fine, integrated tannins creates a smooth richness. Full-bodied, juicy mid-palate with Seghesio "balance."

Alexander Valley Sin Zinfandel 2007

Harry Wetzel: Sin Zin is arguably our best known wine. Most folks are initially drawn in by the label, but once they taste what's inside the bottle, they quickly realize that this is no novelty wine. That may be why Sin Zin remains one of the most popular Zins in America and why, according to Wine & Spirits magazine, it's the Zin of choice in many of the nation's restaurants. The 2007 is a classic Alexander Valley Zinfandel. In the glass, you'll find generous aromas of black cherries, blueberries, vanilla and spice. The big fruit notes are apparent right at the front end. The hefty flavors of cherries and plums carry this wine right through the mid-palate, paving the way for a lengthy finish, where a touch of spicy oak rears its head.

Duckhorn Decoy Zinfandel 2008

Winery Notes: Our winemaking team has been crafting a world-class red blend using Napa Valley Zinfandel since 1994. Decoy Zinfandel allows us to explore this robust and appealing grape as a stand-alone wine. It offers the concentration and complexity that has made the Napa Valley famous, while highlighting classic Zinfandel elements of raspberry, strawberry jam, white pepper, cedar and spice.

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Zinfandel and Other "Italian" Wines of Seghesio Vineyards in California

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Pete Seghesio Jr. in Washington DC

Pete Seghesio Jr., CEO of Seghesio came to Washington DC to present his wines at Pearson’s.

The Seghesio Family Story

The Seghesios are one of the pioneering families in Sonoma County's wine industry. Their story begins in 1886 when Eduardo Seghesio departed his family's vineyards in Piedmonte, Italy for a new life in America. Like so many immigrants, he was drawn to Northern Sonoma County and the Italian Swiss Colony. The "colony," as it was known, hired immigrants for three year stints, providing room and board and then, a lump sum at the end of those three years enabling employees to buy land or set up a business in their new home.

Soon, Eduardo rose through the ranks to winemaker. In 1893, he married a young girl, Angela Vasconi, also from Italy . In 1895, they purchased a modest home in northern Alexander Valley, less for the home than the surrounding 56 acres Eduardo recognized as ideal vineyard land. They planted the "Home Ranch" that year to what has become the family's lifeline - Zinfandel.

Eugene Pio Seghesio, the son of Angela and Eduardo Seghesio, joined the family winery in 1941. During his tenure, Seghesio became a leading bulk producer, but he also started the process that would see the winery transformed to one of the world's premium producers of Zinfandel. While this transformation took place during the tenure of Eugene Pio, it was engineered by 2 Seghesios from the third generation: Eugene Pio’s son Pete Jr. Seghesio, who became the CEO (and who led the tasting), and Eugene Pio’s nephew Ted Seghesio, who became the winemaker. They trimmed production from 130.000 to 40,000 cases. The first wines bottled under the Seghesio label were released in 1983.

Today, all Seghesio wines are sourced from the four hundred acres that the Seghesio family owns and operates in Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, and the Russian River Valley as well as another 100 acres leased on a long-term contract.

Alexander Valley

The Alexander Valley is located north of Healdsburg in Sonoma County. It is the largest and most fully planted wine region in Sonoma. The Russian River flows down the valley, surrounded by vineyards on both sides.

Viticulture dates back to the mid-1800s, when Cyrus Alexander established vineyards in the area. For most of its history, the region was predominately associated with mass-produced bulk and jug wines. The modern era of quality wine production began in the late 1960s with Simi Winery starting to produce wine in the Alexander Valley.


Picture: Maps of Sonoma County and Alexander Valley

The Alexander Valley is known for a wide range of grape varieties but in recent years the area has been noted for the quality of its Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines. Jancis Robinson has speculated that Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc may prove themselves to be best suited to the climate and soils of the Alexander Valley.

Zinfandel

Zinfandel is a red grape variety planted in over 10 percent of California vineyards. It was long considered to be the “American Grape”. But new research revealed that it is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski, and also the Primitivo variety traditionally grown in the "heel" of Italy, where it was introduced in the 1700s. The grape found its way to the United States in the mid-19th century.

The arrival of Zinfandel in the US may have been via the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria, which likely obtained the vines during the Habsburg Monarchy's rule over Croatia. After World War II, medium sweet White Zinfandel became immensely popular in the US. At the end of the end of the 20th century, red Zinfandel wines came back into fashion.

Seghesio Vineyards

HOME RANCH, RATTLESNAKE HILL, & SISTERS

In 1895, Eduardo Seghesio chose the western bench of Alexander Valley as his stake In the New World and planted his first vineyard to Zinfandel. The absence of marine influence marks this growing appellation. Long, warm days create an environment that enables noble red varietals to excel. With only 8-16 inches of topsoil and clay soils with varying underlying layers of basalt, sandstone, and serpentine rock, vines have a difficult time surviving. The resultant lower yields produce grapes with incredible concentration.

Total Acreage: 190 acres (primarily Zinfandel with Petite, Cabernet, Sangiovese, Barbera, Aglianico).

Vineyard purchased in 1895.

RIVER ROAD

Located on the eastern bench of northern Alexander Valley, River Road is the warmest of the Seghesio vineyards. Yolo and gravelly, sandy loams are the result of this vineyard's proximity to the Russian River.

Total Acreage: 56 acres (100% Zinfandel).

Vineyard purchased in 1942.

LONE OAK

Climatically, Alexander Valley tends to be warmer as one moves north up the valley. The Lone Oak Ranch is in an area that is slightly cooler than the Home Ranch. The well-drained soils here are comprised primarily of gravel (Yolo) based loams.

Total Acreage: 25 acres (100% Zinfandel).

Vineyard purchased in 1971.

CORTINA

Nestled in the heart of Dry Creek Valley, Cortina's climate reflects both coastal and inland influences. Mornings shrouded in fog are followed by long hours of sunshine. The soils at Cortina are diverse, consisting primarily of loam (Yolo) interlaid with gravelly loam (Cortina) ideal for Zinfandel.

Total Acreage: 56 acres (primarily Zinfandel).

Vineyard purchased in 1957.

SAN LORENZO

San Lorenzo was planted in the early 1890s, making it the oldest Seghesio vineyard. Ideal for Zinfandel, San Lorenzo’s bench lies in the Southeast Alexander Valley above the fog layer and is rooted in clay loams.

Total Acreage: 32 acres (Zinfandel and Petite Sirah).

Vineyard purchased in 1896.

KEYHOLE RANCH

Located in northern Russian River Valley, this vineyard's microclimate is tempered by cool coastal breezes and frequent summer-morning fog. These climatic conditions provide an optimum growing environment for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Arneis. The soils are composed of gravel and clay loams.

Total Acreage: 72 acres (Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, and Arneis).

Vineyard purchased in 1961.

The Wines Peter Seghesio Jr. Poured

Here are the wines Peter poured, with his notes.

SEGHESIO ARNEIS 2009

Winery Notes: “Arneis originates from the hills of Roero, northwest of Alba in the Piedmonte region of Italy from which our grandfather, Edoardo Seghesio, emigrated in 1886. First noted in Italian records as far back as 1478, Arneis’ production grew as it was often planted among rows of Nebbiolo to lure hungry birds away from the more prized red grapes. Arneis’ literal translation is "little rascal," due to the viticultural challenges it presents in the vineyard.

Tannins and flavors developed slowly without the usual heat spikes, but a very warm September punctuated the vintage by bringing the fruit to full ripeness. Complex, lingering flavors of ripe pears, honeydew melons and green apples. Crisp acidity and bright varietal fruit aromas.”

PEARSON'S SALE PRICE . . . $18.74

SEGHESIO PINOT GRIGIO 2009

Winery Notes: “Our family has grown grapes in Sonoma County since 1895 and, in Russian River Valley, since 1961. A decade ago, we began an aggressive move toward producing all estate wines which included an extensive vineyard-replanting program.

Pinot Grigio is part of that plan to grow intriguing varieties in the best and most appropriate sites. Noted for its unusual grayish/pink clusters and shared lineage with Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio is well suited to the cooler climate of the Russian River Valley. Richness and textural complexity while maintaining pure, bright varietal essences.Aromas and flavors of ripe apples and quince. Lively citrus character followed by lingering notes of apple and tropical fruit. Try this wine with grilled pork chops with lemon zest, rosemary and black pepper.”

PEARSON'S SALE PRICE . . . $18.74

SEGHESIO ZINFANDEL SONOMA 2008

Winery Notes: “Our family roots are firmly planted in Zinfandel, as our great-grandfather, Edoardo Seghesio, first planted this intriguing varietal on our Alexander Valley Home Ranch in 1895. Today, we share his passion and, reverently, farm over 250 acres of estate Zinfandel in Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys.This wine combines sites that have produced Zinfandel for over a century with newer sites that utilize proprietary clones and the most advanced viticultural practices. Climatic-induced spicy undertones mark the 2008 vintage. Vibrant display of acidity enhances the briary raspberry and blackberry varietal expression. Lush, velvety mouth feel interwoven with fine, integrated tannins creates a smooth richness. Full-bodied, juicy mid-palate with Seghesio "balance."

Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate 89 points: "The 2008 Zinfandel Sonoma offers up copious amounts of blue, red, and black fruits as well as excellent purity, medium to full body, a supple texture, and enough acidity to provide vibrancy. It is a pure, elegant, substantial Zinfandel to drink over the next 3-4 years."

PEARSON'S SALE PRICE . . . $22.99

SEGHESIO BARBERA 2008

Winery Notes: “Edoardo Seghesio immigrated to America in 1886 from the Piedmont region of Italy, home to Barbera. In 1895, he planted his first vineyards to grapes he had come to enjoy in his new country; yet one vineyard was saved for varietals from his homeland.

Our Barbera clones were found in that century-old vineyard. Subsequent Barbera plantings on the Home Ranch benefit from northern Alexander Valley’s warm, dry days where the grape’s classic acidity creates a wine with vibrant aromas and a velvety texture. Barbera's dark ruby/purple color is followed by loads of briery, berry fruit, earth, herbs, pepper, and spice. Gutsy and zesty, it is a delicious, medium-bodied red with abundant personality. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years."

PEARSON'S SALE PRICE . . . $25.99

SEGHESIO SANGIOVESE 2007

Winery Notes: “Our grandfather first worked with Sangiovese in the late 1800’s during his tenure as winemaker at Italian Swiss Colony. In 1910, he planted a Chianti field blend surrounding the railroad station in what was then Chianti, California. Those Sangiovese plantings on our Home Ranch are the oldest in America and provided the rich source of four unique clones for our subsequent plantings of the varietal. Although Sangiovese typically grows vigorously, the low yielding, shallow soils of our Home Ranch, combined with our small-berried clones, produce wines of intense varietal character. “Purity of fruit” core of blackberry/black cherry aromas and flavors. Fragrant anise spice undertones. Scents of violets and just-tilled earth. Sangiovese’s bright acidity adds succulence Dusty oak and fine tannins provide structure for the fruit to excel. Elegant, round and balanced.”

PEARSON'S SALE PRICE . . . $26.99

SEGHESIO HOME RANCH ZINFANDEL 2008

Winery Notes: “In 1893, newlyweds Edoardo and Angela Seghesio purchased their first home in Alexander Valley. As winemaker for the most prominent winery in Sonoma County, Edoardo recognized great vineyard potential surrounding the modest home. In 1895, he planted the "Home Ranch" and began our family's lineage of Sharing Uncommon Ground. Lush boysenberries and blackberries flood the senses – mouthwatering! Briary underbrush spiciness with subtle hints of black pepper. Home Ranch site-specific "graham crust" nuance. Old Vine's prominent acid presence contributes focus Warm climate exposure to the elements provides for well integrated tannin ripeness. Vineyard Designate that consistently produces finely crafted Zinfandel.”

PEARSON'S SALE PRICE . . . $32.99

Seghesio Family Vineyards
Healdsburg, California
www.seghesio.com

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The Excellent Wines of Alexander Valley Vineyards in California

The Excellent Wines of Alexander Valley Vineyards in California

Picture: Harry Wetzel and Christian G.E.Schiller in Washington DC

Zinfandel and Other Excellent Wines of Alexander Valley Vineyards in California

Co-owner and winemaker Harry Wetzel of Alexander Valley Vineyards was at Pearson’s in Washington DC a few weeks ago and I was lucky to participate in the tasting.

American Wine

The US is the fourth largest wine producing country in the world following France, Italy, and Spain. The US has produced wine for over 300 years. It is the home of several native species of grape, but it was the introduction of the European Vitis vinifera that led to the growth of the American wine industry. Today, all 50 States make wine, although not all States grow their own fruit.

California

California accounts for nearly 90 percent of the American wine production. Here are the main wine regions:

Picture: The Wine Regions of California

The first wineries were established by missionaries in the South of California. The Gold Rush in the mid-19th century brought waves of new settlers to California. The wine industry moved to the northern parts of California and took hold in the Sonoma and Napa regions. The late 19th century saw the advent of the phylloxera epidemic which had already ravaged European vineyards. Fortunately the remedy of grafting resistant American rootstock was well known and the Californian wine industry was able to survive. At the turn of the 20th century, nearly 800 wineries existed in California and worldwide recognition seemed imminent, when Prohibition hit the industry in 1920. By the time that Prohibition was repealed in 1933 under President Franklin Roosevelt, only 140 wineries were still operating in California.

Californian re-entered the international stage at the 1976 Judgment of Paris wine competition, when Californian wines beat out French wines in both red and white wine categories. Today, there are more than 1,200 wineries in the State, ranging from small boutique wineries to large corporations. In general, by German or French standards, American wineries are large.

Alexander Valley

The Alexander Valley is located north of Healdsburg in Sonoma County. It is the largest and most fully planted wine region in Sonoma. The Russian River flows down the valley, surrounded by vineyards on both sides.

Viticulture dates back to the mid-1800s, when Cyrus Alexander established vineyards in the area. For most of its history, the region was predominately associated with mass-produced bulk and jug wines. The modern era of quality wine production began in the late 1960s with Simi Winery starting to produce wine in the Alexander Valley.


Picture: Maps of Sonoma County and Alexander Valley

The Alexander Valley is known for a wide range of grape varieties but in recent years the area has been noted for the quality of its Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines. Jancis Robinson has speculated that Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc may prove themselves to be best suited to the climate and soils of the Alexander Valley.

Zinfandel

Zinfandel is a red grape variety planted in over 10 percent of California vineyards. It was long considered to be the “American Grape”. But new research revealed that it is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski, and also the Primitivo variety traditionally grown in the "heel" of Italy, where it was introduced in the 1700s. The grape found its way to the United States in the mid-19th century.

The arrival of Zinfandel in the US may have been via the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria, which likely obtained the vines during the Habsburg Monarchy's rule over Croatia. After World War II, medium sweet White Zinfandel became immensely popular in the US. At the end of the end of the 20th century, red Zinfandel wines came back into fashion.

Alexander Valley Vineyards

Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley was mostly prune orchards and pastures when, in 1962, Maggie and Harry Wetzel purchased a large portion of a homestead built by Cyrus Alexander, the valley’s nineteenth century namesake. They raised livestock, cultivated bountiful gardens and restored Alexander’s original home, making it the center of family life. With an eye to their neighbors in nearby Napa Valley, the Wetzels boldly planted premium grape varieties, among the first in the area. Then the family built a small winery. Hank Wetzel, oldest son of Maggie and Harry, produced Alexander Valley Vineyard’s first wine in 1975. Now the third generation of Wetzels has joined the winery. Harry Wetzel IV is assistant winemaker while younger brother Robert is the National Sales Manager.

Today, the Wetzel Family Estate grows fourteen grape varieties, on diverse sites stretching from the banks of the Russian River up onto the hillsides. Alexander Valley Vineyards produces 100,000 cases annually, 17 varietal wines and proprietary blends. Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon constitute roughly half of total production. Other varietals include Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Gewurztraminer, Syrah, Sangiovese, Viognier, and Cabernet Franc.

Sustainability of winemaking is an issue for Alexander Valley Vineyards. Grape stems and pomace (the solid remains of the grapes after they are pressed) for instance, are composted, turning them into a nutrient-rich material that can be used in the vineyards. Glass bottles and the foils that protect the cork are regularly recycled.

Wines are fermented and aged in French and California oak barrels. Alexander Valley Vineyards buy ther barrels from more than a dozen different cooperages, and replace about a quarter of them every year. The staves are harvested from French or American oak forests and left to cure for two years before being toasted to varying degrees.

What We Tasted

ALEXANDER VALLEY TEMPTATION ZINFANDEL 2006

Winery Notes: When we added Temptation to our family of Zins, we wanted to show how the grape California has adapted as its own can wear many faces. If the Redemption Zin is a bit more regal, then Temptation is fun-loving and pretty laid back.

This new release displays all the trademark elements of a fine Zinfandel from Sonoma, where this varietal gained its fame. It's predominately a blend of Zin from Sonoma's Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys. There's also some Zinfandel from Solano to the east of Napa, adding some nuance to this great value Zin. We suggest picking up a few bottles, kicking back and enjoying the fun flavors here of Bing cherries, blackberries and cranberries along with notes of cloves and cinnamon.

PEARSON’S SALE PRICE $12.99

Picture: Zinfandels of Alexander Valley Vineyards

ALEXANDER VALLEY SIN ZINFANDEL 2007

Winery Notes: Sin Zin is arguably our best known wine. Most folks are initially drawn in by the label, but once they taste what's inside the bottle, they quickly realize that this is no novelty wine. That may be why Sin Zin remains one of the most popular Zins in America and why, according to Wine & Spirits magazine, it's the Zin of choice in many of the nation's restaurants.

The 2007 is a classic Alexander Valley Zinfandel. In the glass, you'll find generous aromas of black cherries, blueberries, vanilla and spice. The big fruit notes are apparent right at the front end. The hefty flavors of cherries and plums carry this wine right through the mid-palate, paving the way for a lengthy finish, where a touch of spicy oak rears its head.

PEARSON’S SALE PRICE $16.99

ALEXANDER VALLEY REDEMPTION ZINFANDEL 2007

Winery Notes: Original Sin is in the Alexander Valley. You must trek to Dry Creek for Redemption. Of course we are talking Zinfandel here, as in Sin Zin, our signature Zin, and Redemption Zin, the wonderfully lush companion.

Several years ago, we received some great lots of Zin from vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley, about a dozen miles to the west of our estate. It presented a perfect opportunity to make a Zinfandel with a personality different from Sin Zin, illustrating the distinctive qualities of each region.

Since then, we've been producing a Zinfandel that captures the best the Dry Creek has to offer. The 2006 Redemption Zin shows substantial blackberry and plum flavors along with a healthy dose of black pepper and subtle notes of orange peel and glycerin.

PEARSON’S SALE PRICE $22.99

ALEXANDER VALLEY GEWURZ 2009

Winery Notes: One of the lessons we've learned over nearly a half century of grape growing is that there are certain varietals that are perfect for the Alexander Valley and there are others that are best left to other appellations. Gewurztraminer is one of those. It grows best in cooler climates like Mendocino's Potter Valley, the source for this 2009 Gewurz.

This latest release shows an expressive nose of pineapple, lychee and pear and flavors of grapefruit and apple along with a big mineral component. You'll also notice the wine exhibits a creamy mouthfeel, nicely balanced by the wine's acidity.

We know a lot of folks have a hard time pronoucing the name of this grape. So we've made it easier for you. We call this wine simply "Gewurz.

PEARSON’S SALE PRICE $9.99

ALEXANDER VALLEY DRY ROSE OF SANGIOVESE 2009

Winery Notes: While rosé can be produced from any red grape, we think Sangiovese provides all the elements to make a world-class rosé, particularly depth of fruit and great acidity. We sourced the fruit for the 2009 from a single vineyard that was farmed with the intent of making a rosé from the grapes.

The fruit was picked at 22.6 Brix, allowing us to make a lower alchohol rosé. Harvest began before dawn so that the grapes would be cold when they arrived at the winery. The fruit was then cold-soaked for 6 hours and the juice bled off when it had attained the dusty salmon color we were seeking.

This new release is a worthy successor to the 2008, which critic Robert Parker called the best domestic rosé he tasted last year. This perfect spring and summer sipper exhibits notes of strawberry and peach along with a nice minerality. The finish is not only dry, but surprisingly lengthy.

PEARSON’S SALE PRICE $12.99

ALEXANDER VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2008

Winery Notes: Winemaker Kevin Hall's philosophy has always been to produce wines that truly reflect the qualities of the vineyard. That approach is particularly true with this 2008 Estate Chardonnay. To make sure the crisp fruit shines through, he fermented and aged 70% of the juice in stainless steel. The remainder went into barrel, where it was subjected to frequent lees stirring before being aged in French oak.

Those steps produced a beautifully textured Chardonnay that exhibits lush apple and pear flavors along with some tropical fruit notes, just a touch of vanilla and a hint of minerality. Kevin's approach also makes this a food-friendly Chard, perfect for dishes ranging from roast chicken to sauteed bay scallops.

PEARSON’S SALE PRICE $14.99

ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007

Winery Notes: There are few places better suited for Cabernet Sauvignon than the Alexander Valley, which is why it's become our signature wine. Warm summer days tempered by morning coastal fogs combine to help create a refined Cabernet that is at once approachable upon release, yet with the fortitude to develop with time.

In the glass, the 2007 Estate Cabernet displays big aromas of black cherry, cassis, cocoa powder and plum and flavors of cassis, black cherry and plum along with soft, integrated tannins. This is certainly a great wine to serve with beef, whether braised short ribs or a Tuscan steak rubbed with olive oil and rosemary.

PEARSON’S SALE PRICE $16.99

ALEXANDER VALLEY CYRUS 2005

Winery Notes: Our marquee wine, a true reflection of the best of the Alexander Valley, earns its stripes in a number of ways. Winemaker Kevin Hall selects the best vineyard lots and decides what blend will highlight the Cabernet Sauvignon that is the foundation of CYRUS. The wine is then aged for two years in French oak followed by 8 months in the bottle.

The Cabernet Sauvignon for the 2005 hails from three different vineyards, a blend of old and new vines offering notes of black cherry and cassis. To balance those big flavors, Kevin blended in equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Add a dollop of Malbec and Petit Verdot and you get a multi-dimensional wine offering beautiful flavors of dark cherries, plums and chocolate.

PEARSON’S SALE PRICE $49.99

Alexander Valley Vineyards
8644 Highway 128
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Office hours: 8am–5pm
Tasting room hours: 10am–5pm
1-800-888-7209
(707) 433-7209
(707) 433-9408 Fax

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