Thursday, October 31, 2013

Weingut Wachtstetter in Wuerttemberg – A Profile, Germany

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Rainer Wachtstetter, Weingut Wachtstetter inPfaffenberg, Wuerttemberg

I visited with the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim the Württemberg wine region for 2 days, including Weingut Wachtstetter in Pfaffenberg, which is one of the leading wine producers in the Württemberg wine region.

See:
Touring (and Visiting 4 Wineries in) the Württemberg Wine Region (Zabergäu), Germany

Wine Region Württemberg

Baden-Württemberg is one of the 16 German states that make up Germany. Baden-Wuerttemberg is one of the growth centers of Germany due to its booming export industries. Mercedes-Benz and Porsche are prime examples. Baden-Württemberg comprises two wine growing areas, Baden and Württemberg.

Wine from Württemberg is mainly red wine. The main production area is along the Neckar River between Stuttgart and Heilbronn. There are also vineyards on Lake Constance that belong to Württemberg.

More wine is consumed here (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?”

The Trollinger is the most popular variety, which is grown almost exclusively in Württemberg. It is a nice table wine that goes well with the local food. If you are looking for a premium wine, Lemberger (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in its Hungarian homeland) is the grape variety to go for. The Lemberger made by Weingut Dautel and Weingut Wachstetter, which we had during the tour, can compete with the best red wines in the world.

Pictures: Weingut Wachtstetter

With 11,000 hectares under vine, Württemberg is Germany's fourth largest wine region. Winemaking cooperatives are very common in Württemberg, number around 70, and are responsible for almost 75% of the region's production.

Wines from Württemberg are hard to find in the US. This is partly explained by the production structure, which is dominated by co-operatives. These co-operatives are known for producing top class wines. But they tend to be less aggressive in terms of penetrating new markets.

Weingut Wachtstetter

Weingut Wachtstetter is in Pfaffenberg, right in the middle of the village. It is a traditional family operation, with 3 generations living under one roof and working together. Weingut Wachtstetter is in particular known for its premium Lembergers (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in its Hungarian homeland).

Today, Rainer Wachtstetter is at the helm of Weingut Wachtstetter. He owns and runs the winery now in the 4th generation. It all started with Karl and Ernst Combé, the great-grandfather and the grandfather of Rainer. In particular Ernst left a strong impression on Rainer, which explains why one the Wachstetter product lines is called Ernst Combé line.

Pictures: Rainer Wachtstetter with Annette and Felix Wachtstetter

In 1979, Ernst Combé - with his son-in-law Roland and daughter Anni – decided to move their wine production by beginning to bottle and sell directly his wine. When Rainer Wachtstetter joint in 1987 the family winery at the age of 19, it was clear that he would push on in that direction. Indeed, since then, the vineyard area has expanded from 3 to 17 hectares and Weingut Wachtstetter has become one of the best red wine producers in Wuerttemberg, if not in Germany.

Rainer Wachtstetter

Rainer Wachtstetter is in charge of winemaking today. He has a degree of Weinbautechniker. His wife Annette looks after sales and the accounts, father Roland and mother Anni continue to help. Rainer and Annette have 3 children, Felix, Louis und Anna; Felix helped when we were there.

Picture: VDP Member Rainer Wachstetter

Rainer Wachtstetter is a founding member of the winemaker group Junges Schwaben; the group was awarded the ArtVinum Prize in 2010 as Europe’s Best Up-and-coming Winemakers. In 2009, Rainer Wachtstetter became a member of the VdP, the association of German elite winemakers.

Lemberger and Other Grape Varieties

The specialty of Weingut Wachtstetter is the Lemberger. Rainer Wachtstetter devotes 35% of the vineyard area to this grape variety. He definitely has become one of the best Lemberger producers in Württemberg.

Pictures: With Rainer Wachtstetter in the Wine Cellar

Stuart Pigott: “Yes, I know that you’re probably asking yourselves who the hell Rainer Wachtstetter is and if a red wine from Württemberg can really be worth recommending this highly, but this is a rare bargain amongst „serious“ red wines. Wachtstetter has been perfecting the making of red wines from the Lemberger grape for over a decade and the result is this medium-bodied, supply tannic dry wine with a wonderful bouquet in which elderberry, plum, baking spices and something floral mingle. Where’s my glass?”

Besides Lemberger and (of course) Trollinger, Rainer Wachtstetter also makes Pinot Noir, Samtrot and Dornfelder. Rainer Wachtstetter is not only a specialist in red wines, but also makes excellent white wines, including Riesling.

Classification

Of course, as a member of the VDP, Weingut Wachtstetter is following the new VDP classification. But you can still find elements of the old Weingut Wachtstetter classification. Rainer Wachtstetter has devoted a series of Riesling, Spätburgunder and Lemberger at the middle level to his 3 children Anna, Louis und Felix. The Ernst Combé series with red wines fermented and aged in barrique represents ultr-premium wines. The Grosses Gewaechs from the Grosse Lage Pfaffenhofener Hohenberg ( Riesling and Lemberger) represent ultra-premium dry wines.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Wachtstetter

Gasthaus Adler

Since the beginning of the 1900s, the small and cosy Gasthaus Adler – a wine tavern - has been an integral part of the Weingut Wachtstetters. Today, it is only open durng a few weekends in the spring and the autumn. We had our tasting in the Gasthaus Adler, which has room for 60 guests. We did not eat there, but Rainer Wachtstetter explained that the food is very much local food. In particular, the Gasthaus Adler has been known for many decades for its superb Spanferkel, with home-made Spätzle und Kartoffelsalat.

Tasting

We tasted the following excellent wines. All wines were bone-dry.

Pictures: The Wines

2011 Lemberger weissgekelterter Sekt brut
2012 Riesling Kabinett trocken
2012 Anna Riesling trocken
2012 Grauburgunder trocken
2012 Lemberger blanc de noir trocken
2012 Muskat-Trollinger Weissherbst Kabinett
2011 Trollinger Steillage trocken
2008 Samtrot Ernst Combe trocken
2010 Felix Lemberger trocken
2009 Lemberger Ernst Combe trocken
2010 Pfaffenhofer Hohenberg Lemberger Grosses Gewaechs trocken

schiller-wine - Related Postings

The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

Wine region: Baden and Württemberg, Germany

In the Glass: A 2007 Pinot Noir from the Gault Millau Shooting Star of the Year - Estate Baron Gleichenstein, Germany

Wine Maker Count of Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Frankfurt am Main Presenting his Wines from Wuerttemberg, Germany

A “Viertele” of Schillerwein at Weinhaus Stetter in Stuttgart, Wuerttemberg, Germany

Schillerwein---a German Speciality

Touring (and Visiting 4 Wineries in) the Württemberg Wine Region (Zabergäu), Germany


Wednesday, October 30, 2013

American Whiskey Producers in Germany

Picture: At the Bar Convent Berlin

Frank Coleman led a Group of 18 Spirits Producers from the United States 

Eighteen American spirits producers - most of them micro - distilleries and whiskey producers – came in October of this year to Germany to make their products (better) known here. Stops included Frankfurt, Duesseldorf and Berlin.

Picture: Chris Morris, Master Distiller of Brown-Forman and Woodford Reserve, Kentucky, at a Whiskey Tasting with Dinner at Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main

Picture: Chris Morris, Master Distiller of Brown-Forman and Woodford Reserve, Kentucky, Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser in Oestrich-Winkle, and Frank Coleman, Senior Vice-President, Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, at Weingut August Eser on the Way from Frankfurt am Main to Duesseldorf

Picture:  Asbach Uralt Tasting in Ruedesheim with Asbach Uralt Managing Director Christopher Dellee and Chris Morris, Master Distiller of Brown-Forman and Woodford Reserve, Kentucky

The group was headed by Frank Coleman, the head of the Association "Distilled Spirits Council of the United States." The undisputed star of the group was Chris Morris, master distiller for Brown -Forman and Woodford Reserve in Kentucky. He is the seventh of his profession since the founding of Brown - Forman in 1870. The other producers were small and medium-sized manufacturers, such as the very likeable Don Garrison, of the Garrison Brothers Distillery from Texas, who want to get (more) into the German market. "In the last ten years, sales of American spirits, especially whiskey, recorded an increase of 84 % in Germany" Frank Coleman said.

Picture: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours and Public Relations, and Philip E. Prichard, Prichards' Distillery, Tennessee, in Berlin. The Whiskey Tour was organized by Annette Schiller and her Team.

Whiskey Shut Down

In Berlin, the reception and the press briefing at the U.S. Embassy with the Ambassador unfortunately had to be reorganized on short notice and moved to a Berlin Hotel - because of the American budget crisis. But despite these problems, the event turned out to be a big success. The emphasis in Berlin was the Bar Convent Berlin (BCB), which took place during October 7 and 8. The Distilled Spirits Council of the United States had its own stand, providing the American spirits producers excellent opportunities to present their products to the professional audience at the BCB. All American producers were very satisfied and many want to come back next year. The Bar Convent Berlin has become one of the most important platforms for the bar and spirits industry in Germany since its inception seven years ago.

Picture: The American Pavillion at the Bar Convent Berlin

Picture: The American Pavillion at the Bar Convent Berlin

Picture: Taking Pictures of Frank Coleman

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at the Bar Convent Berlin

Picture: The "Macher" of the Bar Convent Berlin

Frankfurt and Duesseldorf

The four days in Berlin were preceded with events in Frankfurt and Duesseldorf with Frank Coleman and Chris Morris. In Duesseldorf, Falstaff organized a whiskey tasting with dinner in the “Im Schiffchen”. Chris Morris led an entertaining and educational tasting with four very different American whiskeys. The aim of the tasting was to give a broad overview of the world of American whiskeys.

Pictures: Whiskey Tasting in "Im Schiffchen"

Following the tasting, guests were treated to an excellent four-course menu.

It was a terrific evening, which all who were present will remember as an extremely successful symbiosis of German and American delicacies.

Pictures: Chef Jean-Claude Bourgueil, Im Schiffchen, and Ursula Haslauer, Managing Director and Co-owner of Falstaff Deutschland

The initial version of this article (in German) appeared on October 15, 2013 in Falstaff.de:
Amerikanische Whiskey-Hersteller in Deutschland 

A somewhat longer version, also including a review of the whiskeys tasted in Duesseldorf, appeared on October 16, 2013 on schiller-wine:
Amerikanische Whiskey Hersteller in Deutschland

Friday, October 18, 2013

Weingut Dautel in Wuerttemberg – A Profile, Germany

Pictures: Ernst Dautel, Christian Dautel and Christian Schiller at Weingut Dautel in Wuerttemberg

I visited Weingut Dautel in Wuerttemberg and tasted wines with Ernst and Christian Dautel. The visit was part of a Wuerttemberg trip organized by the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim.

See:
Touring (and Visiting 4 Wineries in) the Württemberg Wine Region (Zabergäu), Germany

The German Wine Guide Eichelmann lists Weingut Dautel in the top group of 25 wineries with 5 stars. Since 2005, the Gault Millau WeinGuide lists Weingut Dautel in the group with 4 grapes (with 5 grapes being the maximum).

See also:
Germany’s Best Winemakers (5 Stars) - Eichelmann WeinGuide 2013

Wine Region Württemberg

Baden-Württemberg is one of the 16 German states that make up Germany. Baden-Wuerttemberg is one of the growth centers of Germany due to its booming export industries. Mercedes-Benz and Porsche are prime examples. Baden-Württemberg comprises two wine growing areas, Baden and Württemberg.

Wine from Württemberg is mainly red wine. The main production area is along the Neckar River between Stuttgart and Heilbronn. There are also vineyards on Lake Constance that belong to Württemberg.

Pictures: Weingut Dautel

More wine is consumed here (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?”

The Trollinger is the most popular variety, which is grown almost exclusively in Württemberg. It is a nice table wine that goes well with the local food. If you are looking for a premium wine, Lemberger (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in its Hungarian homeland) is the grape variety to go for. The Lemberger made by Weingut Dautel and Weingut Wachstetter, which we had during the tour, can compete with the best red wines in the world.

With 11,000 hectares under vine, Württemberg is Germany's fourth largest wine region. Winemaking cooperatives are very common in Württemberg, number around 70, and are responsible for almost 75% of the region's production.

Pictures: Ernst Dautel

Wines from Württemberg are hard to find in the US. This is partly explained by the production structure, which is dominated by co-operatives. These co-operatives are known for producing top class wines. But they tend to be less aggressive in terms of penetrating new markets.

See also:
Wine region: Baden and Württemberg, Germany
A “Viertele” of Schillerwein at Weinhaus Stetter in Stuttgart, Wuerttemberg, Germany

Weingut Dautel

Weingut Dautel is in Bönnigheim and run by Ernst and Christian Dautel. Ernst Dautel is in his mid-60s. He just transferred formal ownership of the winery to his son Christian, who studied at Geisenheim Collegue and after a number of internships around the world is ready to take over. Ernst Dautel also studied at Geisenheim in the 1970s and then took over from his parents, who had previously delivered their grapes to the local cooperative. In the 1970s, it was a very small operation with just 1 hectare of vines. Since then, Ernst Dautel has expanded to 10.5 hectares of vineyards, all on the eastern extension of the Stromberg hill.

Pictures: Ernst and Hannelore Dautel and Annette and Christian Schiller

Right from the beginning, Ernst Dautel went his own way. He was one of the first in Germany to ferment and age his red wine in barriques. Also, in the 1990s, he was one of the first winemakers to produce premium blends in Germany, such as the „Kreation Rot“, while Wuerttemberg was and still is dominated by single variety wines. Also, in 1988 he started to plant Chardonnay and other international grape varieties in Germany, which was very rare at the time.

Today, red grapes account for 60%, including Lemberger, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Samtrot, and white grapes account for 40%, including Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. This represent - compared with the rest of Wuerttemberg - a high share of white wines.

As a member of the VDP, Weingut Dautel is classifying its wines according to the new VDP classification (Gutswein, Ortswein, Erste Lage Wein and Grosse Lage Wein). But there are still elements of his previous classification (1 to 4 stars). Four star wines were wines aged for 2 years in barrique.

Pictures: Ernst Dautel with Annette and Christian Schiller

Vineyard

In the vineyard, Ernst Dautel explained, he is moving to organic vine growing. He has gone a long way but is not yet there. He practices natural vegetation and integrated use of beneficial insects for pest control.

Pictures: The 2 Christians - Dautel and Schiller

The Bönnigheim Sonnenberg: About 1200 years ago the vineyards of Bönnigheim were officially denoted for very nutrient trassic formations in the soil. The grounds are made up of pied clay, red sandstone, and gipsum trassic. Mainly grapes for fully developed vines are maturating here. These rich grapes guarantee great maturating capabilities with a long durability.

The Besigheimer Wurmberg: The shell lime terrace grounds at the southern slope of the Wurberg lay at the shore of the river Enz. With dryly set off supporting walls it was possible to build nearly horizontally leveled terraces. They provide an advantageous microclimate, which saves up a lot of humidity for a long time and releases the heat absorbed during day in the night. The rich in minerals shell lime ground generates very finess enriched and filigree wines.

Cellar

In the cellar, Weingut Dautel follows a minimal intervention approach. Pumping and filtratings is kept to a minimum. The wine is made in stainless steel tanks, large wood casks (“Stueckfaesser”) and small barrique barrels, depending on the wine.

Pictures: Ernst Dautel with Helmut Seufert and Christian Schiller

Ernst Dautel: “The basis for our strong and characterful red wines is a long, classic maceration. Because of their nice tannic structure, our red wines age very well. For our 4 star wines, the maceration is followed by barrel aging for almost two years, which contributes to a harmonious integration of the oak note. As for the white wines, preserving the flavors and the fine acidity are important for us. A long aging on the lees provides the finesse that characterizes our white wines. You can discover the art of "assemblage in our two white wine blends and their two red wine cuvée partners. A perfect combination of the individual notes of the different grape varieties in the blend is the secret of these great wines.”


Picture: Ernst Dautel

Wine Portfolio

Estate Wines (Gutsweine)
2012 Rose trocken
2012 Charmeur Weißweincuvée, trocken
2012 Riesling trocken
2012 Weißburgunder trocken
2011 Trollinger Terrassenlage trocken
2012 Spätburgunder trocken
2011 Lemberger trocken
2011 Jakob D. Rotweincuvée, trocken
2011 Riesling Sekt Brut

Ortsweine
2012 Riesling Gipskeuper trocken
2012 Weissburgunder Gipskeuper trocken
2011 Spätburgunder Schilfsandstein trocken
2011 Lemberger Gipskeuper trocken


Lagen- und Selektionsweine
2012 Kreation Weiss -S- trocken
2012 Riesling Besigheimer Wurmberg trocken
2011 Riesling GG "Grübenstein" trocken
2011 Chardonnay -S- trocken
2011 Weißburgunder -S- trocken
2010 Spätburgunder Bönnigheimer Sonnenberg **** trocken
2009 Lemberger trocken
2009 Zweigelt -S- trocken
2009 Merlot -S- trocken
2009 Lemberger -S- trocken
2010 Spätburgunder GG "Kalkschupen" trocken
2010 Lemberger GG "St. Michaelsfeder" trocken
2009 Kreation Rot -S- trocken
2012 Gewürztraminer Auslese Bönnigheimer Sonnenberg


schiller-wine - Related Postings

The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

Wine region: Baden and Württemberg, Germany

In the Glass: A 2007 Pinot Noir from the Gault Millau Shooting Star of the Year - Estate Baron Gleichenstein, Germany

Wine Maker Count of Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Frankfurt am Main Presenting his Wines from Wuerttemberg, Germany

A “Viertele” of Schillerwein at Weinhaus Stetter in Stuttgart, Wuerttemberg, Germany

Schillerwein---a German Speciality

Touring (and Visiting 4 Wineries in) the Württemberg Wine Region (Zabergäu), Germany

In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany