In the Private Dining Room: Wine-pairing Lunch at Château des Vaults, Domaine du Closel in Savennières, Anjou, with Owner/ Winemaker Evelyne de Pontbriand and Owner/ Chef Arthur Favé of Restaurant Le Chenin in Savennières - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

2024 Loire by ombiasy Wine Tours, led by Annette Schiller, took place from Sunday, June 9 to Thursday June 20, 2024. The tour started in Nantes and ended in Sancerre.

The visit at Château des Vaults, Domaine du Closel in Savennières, Anjou, was extensive.

We started out with a walk to the vineyards. We went back to the wine cellar where we had a tasting from barrel. Then, we sat down in the private library of Owner Evelyne de Pontbriand for the aperitif with a tasting of 3 wines. 

See: Vineyard Tour, Barrel Tasting and Salon Tasting at Château des Vaults, Domaine du Closel in Savennière, Anjou, with Owner/ winemaker Evelyne de Pontbriand - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

The visit ended with a high-end lunch hosted by Evelyne de Pontbriand in her private dining room. 

Arthur Favé, chef and owner at the near-by Le Chenin (Gault&Millau 12.5/ 20) cooked for us. 

 

Owner Evelyne de Pontbriand was host for the whole visit.

Domaine du Closel in Savennières, Anjou, is represented by Louis Dressner in the USA.

Domaine du Closel (Louis Dressner)

Château des Vaults in Savennières dates back to 1495, and was inherited by Michèle de Jessey in 1962 from her childless aunt Madame du Closel. Michèle and Jacques de Jessey turned the small family estate into Domaine du Closel. The entire vineyard is located on the most western hill of Savennières and includes some of the best parcels in the AOC: Les Caillardières and Clos du Papillon. The topsoil is shallow, very warm and consists of purple/green schist and sandstone enriched with volcanic rocks (quartz, phtanites, ryolites and spilites) in the best areas.

Evelyne de Pontbriand, Michèle and Jacques' daughter, took over the estate in 2001 after a first career of teaching French literature to adults all over the world. As a lover of botanics and nature, she quickly adopted organic viticulture, which continues to be an experimental learning process. She is constantly searching for cultural practices best adapted to the austere terroirs of Savennières and has deeply changed vinification practices in the cellar. Vinification is done very naturally and with indigenous yeasts; sulfites are only added in tiny doses when needed. The wines are raised on lees from 12 to 26 months. The rhythm of fermentation is always respected.

Today the entire estate has been converted to organic and biodynamic practices in order to best express the different terroirs, each producing unique, original and delicious wines. With the help of a Belgian geologist Valerie Closset, all of her parcels have been inventoried and analysed to understand them better (which ultimately led to each cuvée sharing the name of the parcel it came from). A lot of energy has recently been focused on understanding and dealing with fungal illness in the vines. For esca, replacements are done in two phases: the first consists of planting the rootstock. 

About two years later, a selection massale of Chenin is grafted from a healthy vine. New plantations are done with material from Lilian Berillon, the first and only organic pépinieriste in the world.

The other experiments have focused on pruning: new plantations are pruned in the ancient style of gobelet, allowing the vine to grow bunches all around and have more exposure to sun and wind. Instead of being cut, the growing branches are now gently wrapped around the top wire. Evelyne believes that foliage thinning is traumatic to the vines, as leaves are the plant's vital organs. She has quickly noticed a change in the aromatic palate of the wines. Much focus has also been dedicated to soil work. Different plants, such as cereals and cloves, have been used as green fertilizers; the idea is to let indigenous vegetation grow in order to reestablish an authentic biodiversity in order to help fight insects and pests.

When not making delicious wines, Evelyne enjoys pairing them with her friend's cheeses, cooking the garden’s vegetables with Loire fishes, reading, travelling to visit other vineyards, and promoting the Savennières AOC (of which she is president).

Le Chenin (Gault&Millau 12.5/ 20)

At the foot of the church, this charming bistro keeps its promise: you're in Savennières, and the chenin is waiting for you! The welcome sets the mood for a chef's cuisine that knows the sweet music of well-personalized local recipes: low-temperature smoked eel, garden salsify, miso, radish and hollandaise with bone butter, beautifully technical and flavorful; farmhouse pork chop with hazelnut butter, vegetable casserole and seasonal mushrooms, a well-executed classic; correct chocolate-textured dessert and coffee-glazed parfait. The cellar is very much oriented towards local products, and the young staff are professional and committed to bringing life to the house and the village.

 

Angers à table. Maïté et Arthur présentent Le Chenin, resto situé à Savennières (angers.maville.com) 

 

Maïté Verriez et Arthur Favé étaient salariés depuis 2018 au Chenin, ils en sont devenus les nouveaux exploitants depuis le 1er juillet 2021. Le couple a son équipe en salle et en cuisine et leur dynamisme ne manque pas à l’appel ! Laissez-vous tenter par Le Chenin

 

« J’ai fait un CAP cuisine en alternance à Saumur. J’ai travaillé ensuite aux Dames de la Loire (anciennement la Taverne d’Antoine) à Saumur, puis avec ma compagne Maïté, on a monté une sandwicherie dans la Doutre «la Casa Jerico». On est ensuite parti voyager à droite à gauche et notamment au Brésil dont je suis originaire. En revenant, je suis allé travailler aux Terrasses de Saumur où j’ai pris la place de chef au Bon Marché où je suis resté deux ans. En parallèle, on a commencé à beaucoup jardiner et à s’essayer à la permaculture. On a récupéré un jardin de 1800m2 et ça a beaucoup influencé ma cuisine. On est très proches de nos producteurs, c’est une symbiose. On s’est installé par ici en 2018 car nous sommes devenus salariés du Chenin et nous avons repris le restaurant en 2021. 

 

Chef Arthur Favé, Le Chenin à Savennières

 

Lunch

Appetizer

Bean fricassee with homemade bacon and pea sorbet

Roasted turbot fillet bearnaise and new potatoes

Poultry 2 ways vegetable casserole and hazelnut butter juice

Hazelnut and chicory entrement

The Wines

Thank you Evelyne de Pontbriand and Arthur Favé

Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours: Already Released and Forthcoming Postings

 

Announcement: Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours (Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024)

 

Stopover in Frankfurt: 3 Nights at Zur Mainlust Desche Otto in Frankfurt/ Schwanheim - From Washington DC (USA) to Nantes (France) for 2024 Loire by ombiasy WineTours, led by Annette Schiller

 

Pitstop at Le Petit Sommelier, Standard (10.5/ 20 Gault&Millau) Food and Worldclass Wine List, Just Opposite of Gare Monteparnasse in Paris - From Washington DC (USA) to Nantes (France) for 2024 Loire by ombiasy WineTours, led by Annette Schiller    

Dinner at L'Océanide (Bib Gourmand Michelin) in Nantes - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at L'Instinct Gourmand in Nantes, with Owner/ Chef Sylvain le Bras - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Tour of Old Town Nantes - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Iconic Brasserie La Cigale in Nantes - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour, Tasting and Light Lunch at Vignobles Günther Chéreau, Château du Coing, in Saint Fiacre-sur-Maine, with Owner Véronique Günther-Chéreau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Two Domaines under one Roof: Visit at Domaine Gadais Père et Fils and Domaine de la Combe/ Pierre-Henri Gadais in Saint Fiacre-sur-Maine, Muscadet Sévre et Maine, Pays Nantais, with Owner/ Winemaker Christoph Gadais - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Les Petits Près of Chef Samuel Albert (Top Chef France 2019) in Angers - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Château d’Épiré, AOP Savennières, Anjou, with Owner/ Winemaker Paul Bizard - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Barrel Tasting and Salon Tasting at Château des Vaults, Domaine du Closel in Savennière, Anjou, with Owner/ winemaker Evelyne de Pontbriand - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château des Vaults, Domaine du Closel in Savennière, Anjou, with Owner/ Winemaker Evelyne de Pontbriand and Owner/ Chef Arthur Favé of Restaurant Le Chenin in Savennière - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Visit of Château Angers and the Apocalypse Tapestry (UNESCO) - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Brasserie du Ralliement in Angers - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domäne Vincendeau in Rochefort-sur-Loire, Anjou, with Owner/ Winemaker Liv Vincendeau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with a Light Lunch at Domaine de la Soucherie in Beaulieu-sur-Layon, Anjou - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Clotilde Legrand, Domaine Legrand, in Varrains, Anjou, with Clotilde Legrand - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant L’Essentiel in Saumur - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Visit of L’ Abbey Royale de Fontevraud in Fontevraud - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at L’Orangerie Saumur in the Courtyard of the Château de Saumur - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting, Cellar Tour and Vineyard Tour at Domaine des Roches Neuves in Varrains, Anjou, with Next Generation Owner/ Winemaker Louis Germain and Agathe Germain - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Maison Bouvet-Ladubay in Saumur, with Owner Juliette Monmousseau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Cave M. Plouzeau in Chinon, Touraine, with Owner/ Winemaker Marc Plouzeau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine de la Haut Olive in Chinon, Touraine - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Le Bistrot du Marché in Chinon - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine François Gazin, Le Petit Chambord, in Cheverney, Touraine, with François Gazin - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Brut Maison de Cuisine in Blois, with Owner/ Chef Adrien Delafoy and Owner/ Chef Thomas Gaudard - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour by Car and Tasting at Domaine Brazilier in Thoré-la-Rochette, CôteauxVendômois, Touraine, with Owner/ Winemaker Benoît Braziliery - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Le Moulin du Loir in Vendôme - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit of Château Chambord - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Tour of Château Royal de Blois - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Sunday Lunch at Restaurant La Croix Blanche (Bib Gourmand Michelin), with Owner/ Chef Jean-François Beauduin - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Visit of Château du Clos Lucé and the Leonardo-da-Vinci Park in Amboise - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner, Overnight-stay and Breakfast at Château de Pray in Amboise - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours.

Visit at Denis Meunier in Vernou-sur-Brenne, Touraine - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit at Domaine des Aubuisières, Bernard Fouquet, in Vouvray, Touraine - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Guided Visit of Château Chenonceau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner and Overnight-stay at Auberge du Bon Laboureur in Chenonceau - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Pellé in Morogues, Menetou-Salon, with the Export Manager Pauline Guillot - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Fluteau in Morogues - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Extensive Tasting at at Domaine Alphons Mellot in Sancerre, with Alphons Mellot - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine de Vrillères, SCEA in Sury-en-Vaux, Sancerre, with Kevin Lauverjat - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Tinel-Blondelet in Pouilly-sur-Loire, with Marlène and Annick Tinel - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours 

Lunch at Restaurant/ Affineur Romain Dubois in Chavignol, with Gilles Dubois - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Henri Bourgeois in Chavignol - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Wine-pairing Dinner at Le Clos du Maréchal with the Wines of Vignobles Berthier, with the Owner/ Winemaker Clément Berthier and the Chef/ Owner Nathanael Fromant - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours

Last Meal of the Tour: At La Coupole in Paris - Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours