Klaus Wittauer was the protagonists of a very special event at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, organized by the German Wine Society (Capital Chapter). Klaus introduced us to the wines of Austria and Chef Ken of Open Kitchen served delicious food with an Austrian touch.
This wonderful event consisted of 2 parts. We started out with a Sekt reception during which Klaus presented two Austrian sparklers and Chef Ken of Open Kitchen served small bite fare, including the famous Viennese Schnitzel.
This was followed by a sit-down winetasting, when Klaus took us on a fascinating journey of Austrian wines. In total, Klaus served 11 different wines. He focused on white wines, but we also had a chance to taste 3 red wines.
Wine Producer Austria
Austria has about 50.000 hectares of vineyard, equivalent to about half of Germany’s total vineyard area and one fifth of France’s vineyard area. Almost all of it in the east of the country. “In the west we ski, in the east we make wine”, said Klaus. About 70 % of the production is white wine and 30% red wine. About 75 percent of Austria’s production is consumed in Austria and 25 percent is exported.
Grape Varieties
Austria is known for making excellent dry white wines, in particular from Grüner Veltliner. But Austria is not only Grüner Veltliner from the Weinviertel, it is a country with a range of different wine regions producing a diversity of wine styles, including some great noble-sweet wines and increasingly serious red wines.
Grüner Veltliner: Austria’s own variety, which is capable of making full flavored, spicy whites often with a distinctive white flower and cracked pepper edge to them. It is a particularly food-friendly wine. Grüner Veltliner accounts for about 1/3 of Austria’s wine production. We tasted 3 different Grüner Veltliner wines.
Riesling: Riesling performs very well but accounts only for 3% of Austria’s vineyard area.
Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc): Makes lovely gently aromatic dry white wines in southern regions such as Südsteiermark.
Welschriesling: Austria’s second most planted white grape and not related to the true Riesling. Fresh, simple fruity dry whites are the norm.
It is the whites that get most of the attention, but the reds have quietly been improving. Like in Germany, in Austria there has been a revolution going on in terms of red wines in recent years. In both countries, red wine now accounts for about 1/3 of the wine production.
Zweigelt: The most abundant red grape. Bred at Klosterneuburg in the 1920s and now accounting for nearly half of Austria's red wine. Zweigelt makes good wines ranging up to substantial reds destined for ageing.
Blaufränkisch: Common in the Burgenland. Blaufraenkisch makes spicy, sturdy, berry fruited reds which can have some tannic structure. Probably Austria’s best red grape.
Portugieser: This red grape makes soft, approachable, juicy wines mainly for early consumption. The most widely planted red grape but not for top quality wines.
St Laurent: Came from France in the mid-19th century, and seems to have substantial Pinot Noir parentage. Makes soft, slight herby, expressive reds; it’s a bit like Pinot Noir.
Wine Regions
Austria is divided into 4 main wine regions - Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) with 30.000 hectares, Burgenland with 15.000 hectares, Steirerland (Styria) with 4.000 hectares and Wien (Vienna) with 600 hectares, which are split into 16 districts. All of Austria’s wines are grown in the eastern part. We had wines from 5 different wine regions.
"Wine Ambassador" Klaus Wittauer
Klaus and I go back many years. He was born in Austria and attended Hotel and Restaurant Management School in Salzburg. He then worked for many years in some of the world‘s top restaurants in Austria, Bermuda and the United States, including the lovely L‘Auberge Chez Francois in Great Falls, Virginia, where we first met. Then he moved to the trade side and became the wine buyer for Sutton Place Gourmet (today: Balducci) in Washington DC before creating his own export company in Austria with renowned Austrian winemaker Anton Bauer about ten years ago. At the same time, he created KWSELECTION in the US.
Today, KWSELECTION includes top producers from most of the wine producing areas of Austria: Anton Bauer from Donauland, Leo Hillinger from Burgenland, Gustav Strauss from Styria, Martin Mittelbach from Wachau, Karl & Brigitta Steininger from Kamptal, Steindorfer from Neusiedlersee, Proidl from Kremstal , Meinklang from Burgenland, Joseph Bauer from Donauland and, this his most recent addition, Weingut Netzl from Carnuntum.
As an Austrian married to an American, Klaus has a close relationship with all of his wineries in Austria and has succeed in expanding distribution throughout the United States, with a strong focus on the East Coast.
Chef Ken from Open Kitchen
Chef Ken from Open Kitchen, an eco-friendly restaurant in Falls Church in Virginia, came to the event to present small bites with an Austrian touch. Open Kitchen was recently awarded certification by Virginia Green as a certified Green Restaurant.
As its name suggests, the space of Open Kitchen is pretty much open, with the meal preparation going on in front of your eyes, especially if you snag a counter seat.
Here is what Chef Ken served.
Summer Ratatouille Tartlettes
Summer Mushroom Smear on Toast
Mini Pork Schnitzel
Mini Apple Strudel
See more: A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA
The Wines Klaus Wittauer Served
Leo Hillinger Secco Sparkling Pinot Noir
This Pinot Noir sparkling Rose is made in a Prosecco style. It has aromas of red berries which follow through on the pallet. It is beautifully balanced with a very pleasant, harmonious and refreshing long finish. ($17)
See more on Leo Hillinger:
Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria
Tasting Leo Hillinger Red Wines with Leo Hillinger’s Assistant Winemaker Michael Hoeffken and US Importer Klaus Wittauer
Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA
Steininger Gruener Veltliner Sekt 2009
Yellowish-gold; bouquet of pepper; tricky and noble; perfect mousseux; aroma of Darjeeling-tea, blossoms and pepper; young and fruity freshness and enchanting grace. ($29)
Strauss Pinot Blanc Classic 2011
Tastes like a full-bodied Alsacian Pinot Blanc for half the price. Subtle floral aromas permeate a core of soft pear fruit and fresh acidity, followed by a long smooth finish. Excellent balance and food versatility. ($16)
Anton Bauer Gruener Veltliner Rosenberg 2011
Ried Rosenberg is one of the best-known vineyards in Austria, and produces some of the greatest Grüner Veltliner in the world. Very aromatic aromas full of round fruit balanced with crisp acidity. The distinct soil lends a pleasant mineral and white pepper note typical of this varietal. Pairs well with a wide range of foods including Asian cuisine and fish with fresh herbs. Excellent value and quality. ($17)
Steininger Loisium Gruener Veltliner 2010 DAC Kamptal Reserve – Steven Holl
Named after the architect who built the Loisium. A single vineyard Veltliner with inviting fruit in the nose, exotic notes and fine ripe aroma of apples. The finish is complex and balanced with a long beautiful echo. ($19)
Tegernseerhof Gruener Veltliner Hoehereck 2009 Smaragd
Clear, finely woven Veltlinerfruit. A exotic and powerful fruit on the palate. Fine elegance, engraved, with long aftertaste. ($39)
Tegernseerhof Riesling Steiertal 2009 Smaragd
This single vineyard Riesling rivals the greatest white wines in the world. It´s peach, apple aroma flavors, mingle with a white pepper note in this scented yet powerful Riesling. Balanced and ending with a mineral aftertaste. ($37)
Netzl Rubin Carnuntum Zweigelt Selection 2009
Dark ruby garnet with youthful reflexes, dark, ripe cherry in the nose, loads of fruit, berries and juice on the palate, harmonious toasting, balanced and intensive ripe tannins, a wine with charm and elegance. ($17)
See more on Netzl:
Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria
Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl in their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria
Anton Bauer Wagram Cuvee 15 2009
This rich sexy blend of Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Cabernet and Merlot is aged for 12 months in French oak. It is soft, juicy and complex with violet & licorice aromas, layers of plum, dark berry fruit, spice with a smooth silky finish. Although absolutely delicious on its own, it will also complement beef, duck, grilled pork, tuna and rich red sauces. ($17)
Leo Hillinger HillSide 2009
A new wine of Leo Hillinger – 70% Syrah, 20% Zweigelt and 10% Merlot. It has an explosive nose of raspberry, sweet tobacco and vanilla. Big and full up front with good spice, black pepper and a long pleasant finish. ($25)
Steindorfer Beerenauslese Seewinkel 2007
50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Traminer. Elegant nose, spicy honey, peach, complex and intense on the palate, with juicy apricot and harmonious acidity on the finish, which goes on and on. ($29 half bottle)
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