When my friend and wine journalist Panos Kakaviatos is in town, there is always a flurry of tastings taking place in Washington DC. This time, he took advantage of the presence of Lilian Barton-Sartorius (because of the UGCB North America Tour) and organized with fellow wine lovers, merchants, journalists and bloggers an extended blind tasting dinner of Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton at Ruth Chris Steakhouse in Washington DC.
See here for more on the UGCB tasting:
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites
For other tastings organized by Panos Kakaviatos in the last few weeks, in which I participated:
Tasting Vintage 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Wines with Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC, USA Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA
We tasted the wines blind in flights of three, except the 1989 of which there were two magnums. The 'gimmick' was guessing blind which wines were Langoa and which were Leoville, with only the vintages identified. In addition, Lilian Barton-Sartorius brought the 2011 Chateau Mauvesin-Barton.
The company was terrific and included: Rutger De Vink (RDV Vineyards), David White (Terroirist), Dave McIntyre (Washington Post and DM WineLine), Mark Wessels (MacArthur Beverages), Terrance Mason (MacArthur Beverages), Ben Giliberti (Calvert Woodley), Michael Sands (Calvert Woodley), Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead – A Wine Blog), Raz Mariam Razavi (Wines by Raz) and Maria Denton (Moet Hennessey Portfolio Manager), to name a few.
The Barton Family
The Barton family is able to trace its Bordeaux roots all the way back to 1722. That was the year that Thomas Barton left Ireland for Bordeaux. Like many successful owners, Barton started out as a Bordeaux negociant.
The first foray into ownership for the Barton family was in St. Estephe, with Chateau Le Boscq in 1745, which was awarded Cru Bourgeois status in 1932. In 1995, the Barton family sold it to Dourthe.
Also in 1745, the Barton family partnered with another powerful Bordeaux family to form a Bordeaux wine negociant company, Barton and Guestier. It was controlled by the Barton family until the Seagram Group got control in 1986. Today, Barton and Guestier is part of the international wine and spirit company Diageo.
The next major purchase for the Barton family took place in 1821. That was the year they bought Chateau Langoa Barton. Following the purchase of Langoa Barton, they bought a second St. Julien estate: Culled from the vineyards of Château Leoville Las Cases, that estate became Chateau Leoville Barton, a deuxième cru en 1855. Interestingly, because no wine making facilities came with the purchase, they were forced to make the wines at Château Langoa Barton. Until today, production of both wines takes place at Langoa Barton.
When Ronald Barton, who had inherited the family’s property from his father, who was tragically killed in a hunting accident in the 1920's, died without an heir in 1986, his nephew Anthony took control of the family properties. Anthony had already moved from Ireland - where the family maintains a home - to Bordeaux in 1951.
Château Léoville-Barton
Château Léoville-Barton is a Deuxième Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Julien appellation.
There are now 47 hectares of vineyards at Château Léoville-Barton, planted with 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Vinification is performed in the cellar at Langoa-Barton, as there is in fact no château at Léoville-Barton.
The grand vin is Château Léoville-Barton, the second wine is La Reserve de Léoville-Barton. Total production is 20.000 cases.
Château Langoa-Barton
Château Langoa-Barton is a Troisième Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Julien appellation.
Located along the banks of the Gironde river, Langoa-Barton has 15 hectares under vine: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot.
About 7,000 cases of Château Langoa-Barton are produced.
Château Mauvesin-Barton
In September 2011, the Barton family purchased an additional Bordeaux estate, Château Mauvesin, in Moulis. It is an estate with 48 hectares of vines in a single block surrounding the château. 40 of those hectares, which are planted with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in roughly equal measure, are in the Moulis appellation, the rest being Haut-Médoc. The property has been owned by the Baritault du Carpia family and their predecessors since the late 15th century. The imposing, classically proportioned château was built in 1853.
When the Bartons took control of the property, the extensive cellars underwent a quick temporary renovation. The Bartons installed 22 new, squat stainless-steel vats in various sizes, allowing increased precision during vinification and blending. For the harvest, the Bartons brought in a new tractor that offloads the grapes by vibration, a vibrating sorting table, and an optical sorter—a rare sight in Moulis.
Anthony Barton
Anthony Barton was born and grew up in Ireland. After he got his educated in England, he headed to Uncle Ronald in Bordeaux in 1951. There, he started off in his family’s merchant firm of Barton and Guestier and met his future wife Eva, with whom he has 2 children. Athony and Eva Barton live at Chateau Langoa-Barton.
Anthony Barton has already transferred ownership to his daughter Lillian, who is married to Michel Sartorius.
For more see:
Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, 2012, USA
Lilian, Mélanie and Damien Barton-Sartorius
Lilian Barton-Sartorius and Michel Sartorius have two children, both young adults studying to work in the wine industry. Daughter Melanie has completed studies in agriculture and enology in Burgundy and Bordeaux. She will be the first enologist in the Barton family, and plans to return to the family châteaus after a two-year stint at a Tuscan winery. Their son Damien also put in two years in agriculture school and is currently in business school.
Michel Sartorius takes great care of the ‘home' market where clients include many prestigious restaurants including La Tour d'Argent in Paris.
2011 Chateau Mauvesin Barton, Moulis en Medoc
This is the first vintage produced by the Barton family.
Medium-deep ruby in the glass, notes of red fruits, mocha and aromatic herbs on the nose, a mid-weight wine, lively on the palate.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 14
First flight – 2006, 2005, 2004
How best characterize the wines of Saint-Julien? Lilian said that in her view the wines of Saint-Julien have the charm and elegance of Margaux and the character and strength of Saint-Estephe.
At the estate level, the vineyards of Langoa Barton are on north-facing slopes at a slightly lower elevation than the south-facing slopes of Leoville Barton. With the water table at the same depth the vines of Leoville Barton must go deeper, through more layers, gaining complexity.
2006 Chateau Langoa-Barton, Saint-Julien
Good bright ruby-red in the glass, notes of cassis, tobacco leaf and minerals on the nose, good structure and good fruit on the palate.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 62
2005 Chateau Langoa-Barton, Saint-Julien
Good ruby-red in the glass, nice plummy notes on the nose, good structure, finishes with chewy tannins, still pretty closed.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 84
2004 Chateau Leoville-Barton, Saint-Julien
2004 was large in terms of quantity and overshadowed by both 2003 and 2005, Lilian said.
Good red-ruby in the glass, nice notes of black raspberry, black cherry and leather on the nose, lively finish.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 85
Second flight – 2000, 1999, 1998
Lilian explained that 1998 was an economic vintage as 1997 had been expensive. The 1999s went past unnoticed but are charming and drinkable.
2000 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien
“The first of many vintages of the century” Panos said.
Good ruby-red in the glass, notes of tobacco and blackcurrant on the nose, well integrated tannins, further along in aging than I imagined.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 92
1999 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien
Good ruby-red in the glass, a light, tight nose of dark red fruit and good scents, concentrated on the palate, with a great silky mouth feel, one of the best.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 92
1998 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien
Good ruby-red in the glass, notes of black cherry and cedar on the nose, austere and rather unforthcoming, firm in the core but generally the most backwards of all the wines tasted.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 62
Third flight -- 1996, 1995, 1990
Lilian explained that the vintage of 1990 was atypical being so very hot and very dry. This can cause quite a problem when vegetation stops. Fortunately there were rains in mid-September after which the vines did something for a few weeks and all was fine.
Moving on, the estate lost money with the 1991 and 1992 vintages. They broke even in 1993, did better in 1994 then returned to a good footing in 1995 and 1996. Lilian felt the wines of 1995 are lovely nice wines, always have been and still are. Those of 1996 show more power and need time to age.
1996 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien
Good ruby-red in the glass, a delicate, slightly floral nose, coupled with gentle spice, lots of ripe tannins coat the mouth, firm wood towards the finish.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 87
1995 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien
Good ruby-red in the glass, notes of tobacco, game and roasted nuts on the nose, on the palate black fruit flavors, ripe, tongue-coating tannins on the finish.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 98
1990 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien
Dark ruby color with a red edge in the glass, subtle aromas of black cherry and plum, with hints of mineral and smoke on the nose, firm tannins and a long finish. This powerful wine has lots of life left and is youthful in a sense. Beautiful.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 186
Fourth flight -- 2008, 2009, 2010
We circled back to the youngest wines. Lilian felt that 2008 was a lovely, supple vintage of which there is not much to talk about. It was a particularly great value for those who purchased en primeur. The 2009 will drink earlier whereas the 2010 will need longer. It has big tannins, big alcohol and is quite charming but she is afraid it might close up soon.
2008 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien
Bright ruby in the glass, notes of tobacco, cassis and minerals on the nose, red fruit mix with acidity on the palate as gentle tannins came out, leaving a dry sensation in the finish.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 81
2009 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien
Bright ruby in the glass, attack of oak, cassis, minerals and fresh, juicy blackberries on the nose, a powerful, full bodied, concentrated wine, will need many years to round fully into form.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 134
2010 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien
Good ruby in the glass, notes of plum, balsamic vinegar and aromatic herbs on the nose, on the palate, the fruit is young with a cinnamon, spicy structure.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 74
Final Wine: 1989 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien (Magnum)
Good ruby-red in the glass, herbal notes on the nose, graceful and still lively fruit on the palate, long finish.
Average price wine searcher: US$ 77
schiller-wine: Related Postings
Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics
Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion - A Profile, France
A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos
Château Brane-Cantenac, Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Margaux – A Profile, France
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France
The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany
Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France
Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France
Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Returning to Washington DC, USA
Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France
Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France
Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, 2012, USA
Drinking the Wines of Stephane Derenoncourt at Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere in St. Emilion, Bordeaux, and at Boxwood Vineyard in Virginia, USA
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites
Wow! What an amazing write up, Christian. I like the way you describe the history of the two estates and the Barton family, and the tasting notes are as succinct as they are usefully descriptive. An added plus to include pricing. Thanks very much for this, and the photos are indeed superb. I must lose weight, however :-).
ReplyDeleteGood Blog. Nice picture collection. Thanks for sharing this.
ReplyDeleteTuscan Wine
Dear Christian,
ReplyDeleteIt was great to meet you. Thank you for taking me to the restaurant.
And thank you very much for all your hard work for your very nice text and tasting comments.
Hoping to see you again very soon and should you be in Bordeaux I would be very happy to see you in Saint Julien.
Best wishes
Lilian
Lilian BARTON SARTORIUS
LVF Anthony BARTON
33250 SAINT JULIEN BEYCHEVELLE
Tel : 00 (33) 5 56 59 06 05
FAX: 00 (33) 5 56 59 14 29