Carl von Schubert, who owns and runs the famous Maximin Gruenhaus Estate in the Ruwer Valley in Germany, was in town (Washington DC) and I had a chance to catch up with him at MacArthur Liquer. Phil Bernstein, the German wine expert of MacArhur’s, was at the estate last month and now Carl returned the favor. We tasted four 2011 releases. Carl von Schubert was on his way to the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, where I met him again a couple of days later. Below is a series of photos from the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle.
For more, see:
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA
The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA
Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World – Snooth 2012
Pacific Rim Winemaker’s Blog Recommends "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine" on schiller-wine
When I use the adjective “elite” in connection with the VDP – the association of German elite winemakers – I am sometimes criticized that not all VDP members are elite winemakers, while there are elite winemakers in Germany that are not in the VDP. That is entirely correct. Maximin Gruenhaus is clearly a good example for the latter group. Notably, Maximin Gruenhaus is ranked in the Feinschmecker WeinGuide in the group of 18 top winemakers in Germany (with 5 stars), but is not a member of the VDP. Carl says the VDP wants him to become a member but he prefers to stay outside of that club.
For more, see:
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
The historic Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long, steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the tiny Ruwer river, about two kilometers upstream from where it joins the Mosel. The estate belongs to the family of Carl von Schubert and is divided into three separate but contiguous vineyards: Abtsberg, Herrenberg, and Bruderberg. Each of these vineyards has its own distinct differences in terroir, which explain the unique character of the wines made at Grünhaus. The estate is also known by the name Schlosskellerei Carl von Schubert.
History
The first documentary evidence of Grünhaus, then called “Villa ad Valles,” dates from February 6, 966. Emperor Otto I, heir of Charlemagne, confirmed a donation that had been made in the Seventh century by the Frankish King Dagobert. At that time, the buildings, vineyards and surrounding land had been given to the Benedictine monastery of Saint Maximin in Trier.
See also:
German Wine: Tasting with Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages the 2011 Vintage in Washington DC, USA
Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness
Until the end of the 18th century Maximin Grünhaus was managed by the Abbey of Saint Maximin. After all church property was secularized by Napoleon, the estate was held under French administration until 1810. In that year, the estate was sold to Friedrich Freiherr von Handel. In 1882, it was purchased by an ancestor of Carl von Schubert, who is the fifth generation of his family to own the Grünhaus estate. When in 1882 Carl Ferdinand Freiherr von Stumm-Halberg bought the Grünhaus estate, it consisted of vineyards, a farm, and extensive woodland. Investing heavily, he transformed it into one of the most modern of its time.
Along the way from generation to generation, at one point, there was no male heir and the estate went to a female von Stumm-Halberg, who married a von Schubert. The current owner Carl von Schubert took over management of the estate in 1981, after he completed his doctoral thesis on the economics of steep slope viticulture. Vine growing and winemaking is currently overseen by Stefan Kraml. The vineyard area totals 31 hectares.
The Vineyards
The Abtsberg
Wines from this vineyard were originally destined for the table of the Abbot (or “Abt”) of the Abbey of St. Maximin. The site covers 35 acres, parts of which have been planted with vines for over a thousand years. The subsoil is blue Devonian slate and the hillside runs south-east to south-west, achieving a gradient of up to 70 percent. Abtsberg wines are characterised by a finely structured subtle minerality, a racy acidity, generous fruit and great delicacy. They are amongst the longest lived Rieslings of the region.
Wines from this site were made specially for the Abbey’s choirmasters. Extending over 40 acres, the site benefits from deep soils with good water retention, over a base of red Devonian slate. Wines from the Herrenberg show fruit and body early in their lives, but also possess extraordinary ageing potential.
The Bruderberg
The smallest of the three Grünhaus vineyards, covering just 2.5 acres, the Bruderberg provided wine for the monks (or ‘brothers’). The site has the same Devonian slate soil as the Abtsberg next door, and the wines are very spicy, sometimes with a rustic slate-mineral quality.
The Wines Carl von Schubert Poured in Washington DC
Carl showed the following wines (and signed bottles).
2011 Carl von Schubert Riesling Qba Trocken Maximin Gruenhauser $26.99 - The estate Riesling Trocken (dry) is a blend of the barrels that remain after the single-vineyard dry wines have been selected out of the overall production. The result is an entry-level dry Riesling that shows the characteristic minerality of the area and the refined style of the Grünhaus estate.
2011 Carl von Schubert Riesling Qba Maximin Gruenhauser $21.99 - The classic Grünhaus off-dry estate Riesling is a blend of the barrels that remain after the single-vineyard fruity wines have been selected out of the overall production. The proportions from each of the three Grünhaus vineyards will change depending on the conditions of the vintage.
2011 Carl von Schubert Kabinett Maximin Gruenhauser Herrenberg $30.99 - This wine is a selection of barrels that exhibit the delicate Kabinett style, but also show the distinctive stone fruit flavors and red slate minerality that are typical expressions of this vineyard’s terroir.
2011 Carl von Schubert Spatlese Maximin Gruenhauser Abtsberg $41.99 - The Abtsberg Spätlese is a selection of barrels produced from fruit harvested late in the season. The longer hang time produces more fully developed aromas and flavors, and greater complexity.
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