For the last couple of years, in late January, when he is on vacation in Washington DC - “where his heart is” - from Strasbourg - where he works at the Council of Europe, Panos Kakaviatos, who writes for the Decanter (UK) and publishes on Connections to Wine, has organized impressive vertical tastings. Last year, Lilian Barton-Sartorius and Panos Kakaviatos presented a vertical blind tasting of Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton plus the 2011 Chateau Mauvesin-Barton. This year, Laurent Dufau, Managing Director, from Château Calon Ségur flew over to present a massive vertical with Panos Kakaviatos.
See:
A Vertical Blind Tasting of Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton plus the 2011 Chateau Mauvesin-Barton with Lilian Barton-Sartorius in Washington DC, USA
A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos
The tasting took place at Ripple Restaurant in Washington DC. Executive Chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley prepared an exciting meal. Ripple General Manager and Wine Director Danny Fisher and his team managed the event very effectively.
The event was attended by about 30 wine geeks, professional wine sellers, sommeliers, merchants and restaurateurs.
History
Château Calon-Ségur is a third growth under the 1855 Classification in the Saint-Estèphe AOC. It is the most northerly classified estate within that (northern) area.
See:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Château Calon-Ségur has a rich pedigree, once among the properties owned (by marriage) by Nicolas Alexandre, Marquis de Ségur, who also owned Château Latour and Château Lafite (along with Mouton-Rothschild, Pontet-Canet, d'Armailhac and Montrose). Despite his ownership of First Growths, the Marquis said that his “heart was with Calon” and the wine’s label today includes a drawing of a heart around the château’s name. The château passed through various owners, until it was purchased by Georges Gasqueton of Château Capbern-Gasqueton in 1894.
The origins of Calon-Ségur’s name lie in the proximity of the Gironde River estuary and its famous owner Nicolas Alexandre, Marquis de Ségur. Calon is the name of the small boats, or skiffs, once used to transport timber along the estuary. The Calon-Ségur vines run right down to the water’s edge, fulfilling the old Bordeaux adage that the best châteaux can all "see" the river.
Recent Sale
In June 2012, 9 months after the death of the estate's owner, Denise Capbern-Gasqueton, surviving members of the family sold the château to Suravenir Assurances for an estimated US$212 million. Inheritance taxes and family disagreements were reportedly the main reasons. Videlot, a Bordeaux wine group owned by Jean-François Moueix, was a minority partner in the deal.
The purchase included 235 acres in St.-Estèphe, encompassing Calon-Ségur, second label Marquis de Calon and the Cru Bourgeois Capbern-Gasqueton.
Break in 2006
When the Winemaker of Calon Ségur retired in 2006, Madame de Gasqueton hired Vincent Millet – who had previously been at Chateau Margaux – to take over winemaking. First, Vincent Millet chose to focus on the 55 hectares of the main vineyard to make Calon Segur and discontinued using vines from outside the main vineyard for the first wine. Second, he started to increase the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, to the point where the average blend in recent years is about 80-20. Third, he also increased the percentage of new oak to 100%. Finally, is gradually increasing the vine density. “We now have about 10,000 vines per hectare, up from about 7,200 per hectare. This helps to improve the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes by creating a bit of competition between the vines and causing some hydric stress."
Annual Production of the Grand Vin is 20,000 cases. Chateau Calon-Ségur also produces second and third wines: Marquis de Calon and La Chapelle de Calon.
Reception: Krug Champagne
NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée - France, Champagne
Panos Kakaviatos: Very fresh example with nicely layered fruits. It would be nice to cellar for ten more years. (94 pts.)
Vertical Château Calon Ségur Tasting
I am reissuing the comments of Panos Kakaviatos, Kevin Shin on winebeserkers and also Jane Anson, who tasted most of the wines a few months earlier in Paris. I am adding the average wine searcher prices in US$ in paranthesis.
See:
Celebrating Riesling and my Birthday at Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany
2010 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (117$)
Jane Anson: The blend in this vintage reached a full 86% of cabernet sauvignon. In the glass, the colour remains a bright en primeur purple, barely budged in two and a half years. Gorgeous! I love this vintage, but taste-wise also this is still very much in its primeur stage of primary fruit, with rich texture and vigorous tannins. Monumental, as we say so often of 2010 wines, and it’s worth remembering that the three years since this have been significantly lower in quality. This is a reminder that nature is a game of give and take. However, it wasn’t all fun for Calon Ségur in 2010; they had severe hail storms, and made just 50% of the crop of 2009. A classic. 95+/100. Excellent. Drink 2019-2040.
Kevin Shin: This is a classic claret from an excellent vintage. Fresh red fruit driven nose, very strong lead pencil and mineral notes, a hint of green and cedar. Excellent concentration, mineral and sweet tannins. This along the 09 will require minimum twenty years to reach the first stage of peak. I doubt that these will shut down really hard especially the 09. Both nicely representing the respective vintages. (94 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: When tasted en primeur, I found it a bit too austere but it has tamed itself... And yet, this is a wine that needs lots of time. Several participants at a dinner I organised for Ripple Restaurant in Washington D.C. voted this wine as the best for the future, among 16 vintages. The structure is there, the freshness and the substance. It is not just together yet. Potential for a higher score. (93+ pts.)
2009 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (125$)
Jane Anson: The words that spring to mind here are generous, luscious, ripe… and plenty more of the same. This is turbo-powered compared to the Marquis de Calon in this vintage, but with the same generosity of fruit. Blend is 90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot – figures which speaks for themselves in terms of fruit ripeness. Tight, tingling, a long way to go but the shape is starting to appear. Very very pleasurable. 94/100. Highly recommended. Drink 2017-2035.
Kevin Shin: Blue fruits, blueberry jam, sweet spices and graphite. Exceptional concentration, round, soft, silky, ripe blue fruit driven palate impression and nicely integrated tannins. It nicely displays the ripe vintage character without losing the chateau signature, ie fresh/slightly under-ripe characters. (93 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: This is a great bottle of wine. There is sex appeal and structure. The northern Medoc excelled in 2009. While some people believe that 2009 is an all-around positive vintage, let us not forget that this is when Merlot started getting out of hand... Not so in the Medoc, and certainly not at Calon Segur. Some critics ooh and ah over the excessive winemaking at Cos d'Estournel in that year, which comes across as a caricature of winemaking. Here we have 100% new oak, but very well integrated - and 90% Cabernet. This baby will evolve into something very special. Boy am I glad I bought 12 bottles en primeur. Montrose is no doubt better, but Calon Segur amounts to less than half the price.... (95 pts.)
2008 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (87$)
Jane Anson: As with the 2007, this has an oak-dominated nose with traces of coffee. But it is less intrusive here, with more fruit character. This is a beautiful wine, precise and elegant and very enjoyable. 76% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot. Good persistency, with subtle warming spicing. This vintage had an Indian summer, good for cabernets – and Calon was also benefitting from two years of changes brought by Vincent Millet. 93/100. Highly recommended. Drink 2015-2030.
Kevin Shin: Nicely reflecting the vintage, bright red and dark fruits, cassis, a hint of oak and cedar. Medium concentration, fresh, mineral, sweet red fruit palate impression and noticeable but non-obtrusive tannins. As pretty as Bordeaux can be. Lovely wine that is drinking well in very youthful way without tertiary notes as one can expect. (92 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: Fine and fresh aromatics. Yet another underrated 2008. Critic John Gilman prefers this over 2010 and 2009. While I would not go that far, this wine offers fine ripeness and excellent verve if not as structured as either 2010 or 2009. But people who dismiss this as not as concentrated may be in for a surprise. There is sneaky persistence on the finish. And plenty of charm! (92 pts.)
2007 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (86$)
Jane Anson: A difficult year, as we know (or thought until 2013). Already slight pinking of the colour around the rim of the glass. Very different on the nose from the other vintages tried in this vertical, much more coffee (cappucino, milled coffee beans). Must be the use of oak barrels to compensate for the fruit. Less année de vigneron, more année de viticulteur. For me, it is too obviously compensated for in the cellar - but still offers pleasure. Blend 76% cabernet, 24% merlot. 89. Recommended. Drink 2013-2023.
Kevin Shin: Oak, chocolate coming from oak and vegetal. A lot of wine making but not much substance. (84 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: One of the better 07s from Bordeaux. Very charming and went so well with the dinner. Slight bottle variation. But here we have a wine that is more reflective of the terroir: since around that vintage, the estate started making its wine exclusively from the 55 hectares within the clos of the chateau. And they used more Cabernet: here some 83% Cabernet (as opposed to the virtual 50/50 mix of Cab/Merlot with the 2005). A lovely effort. (90 pts.)
2006 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (87$)
Jane Anson: Blend is 64% cabernet, 33% merlot, 3% petit verdot. A year that saw a mixed bag of results in estates across Saint Estephe, but this is showing great appellation character. Quite different in personality from the 2005, some excellent deep coloured fruit, right through to black cherry and blueberry - a real cabernet and petit verdot year. Not the persistency of 2005, this will be ready to drink sooner, has slightly out of balance acidity and doesn’t make you break into cheer like the 2005, but still plenty to admire, classic good quality claret. 91. Highly recommended. Drink 2014-2028.
Kevin Shin: Soft, red fruits, green, lead pencil, mineral and red fruits. Decent concentration, slightly unripe palate fruit expression and noticeable tannins that is a bit dry. (90 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: Not sure what to think of the 2006. Stolid. Yet solid. No word play :-). I recall reporting in September in Bordeaux for decanter.com when the rain fell, and got some savory quotes from Jean Rene Matignon of Pichon Baron basically saying that this was detrimental to optimal ripeness. Laurent Dufau of Calon Segur himself compares 2006 to 1975: "Will it ever come around?" The substance is there, on the mid palate, but it is hardly pleasurable. Gilman is convinced that this will be great down the road. Cross the fingers, but for now, it is not ready. (89 pts.)
2005 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (117$)
Jane Anson: Ah, here the color seems to retract, darken, deepen, even though it is now approaching its 9th birthday. The anthocyanes are barely giving an inch. Cloves, cassis, liquorice again coming through, and percolating coffee, this is a burly wine, wonderful tannins, so present and yet so reassuring, cradling the fruit like Rudolph Valentino. Just gorgeous, and just getting going. Love it, 96/100. Excellent. Drink 2013-2035.
Kevin Shin: This is reaching the first stage of maturity. Sweet red fruits, red cherries, plum, lead pencil, mineral, ash and a hint of green that keeps the wine fresh. Very good concentration, good acidity, silky and strong presence of tannins, not dry but quite strong. I find this to be similar to the 10 despite having more merlot. (93 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: A rather disappointing 2005. While it was good, it was somewhat Merlot glossy. Not spoofilated like a Pavie of the same vintage, for example, but lacking nuance and complexity. It was pleasing, to be sure. And some tasters ooh and ah over this. But I think it lacked gravitas. Let's just say that 2006 had too much gravitas, and 2005... not enough. (89 pts.)
2003 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (119$)
Jane Anson: The heat wave year, and usually the Saint Estephe clay meant a touch more freshness for many of its wines. But even with that advantage, the fruit here has spread out a little too much right from the first nose, get gourmet notes of caramel and brioche, a patisserie spread of characters. No need to wait to drink this. It is a little underwhelming for the estate, certainly out of character in terms of personality of the lineup. Doesn’t have the length of the others, and wonder if phenolic ripeness was fully reached. For me, the big disappointment so far (but way better than many 2003s that I have tasted recently, so don’t discount it entirely). 87/100. Recommended. Drink 2013-2020.
Kevin Shin: Ripe but not overripe nose, red and blue fruits, plum, cassis, a hint of green driven cedar note, sweet spices, caramel and earth. Excellent concentration, round and soft palate and nicely integrated tannins. I strong believe that this will develop like the 82, soft red fruit driven wine with strong note of cedar. (93 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: Cornucopia of aromas and flavors and not cooked or jammy. One of the very best wines from this torrid vintage - and it is no coincidence that Calon Segur is in the northern Medoc. It lacks the substance of the greater mid palates from 2003 (Pichon Baron or Leoville Barton for example) but its charm is appealing. (92 pts.)
2002 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (91$)
Kevin Shin: Ripe black and red fruits, sweet spices and earth. Good concentration and noticeable tannins. This seems a bit monolithic and quite chunky. This will need more time but will remain a bit boring, IMO. (91 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: I used to love 02s from the Left Bank, but be warned that some seem on a faster evolutionary track than before. There was discussion over 2001/2002, with some tasters saying that the 2002 will outlast 2001. For me, the 2001 - certainly "classic" - has more matiere and I lean towards the view that the 2001 will outlast the 2002, in this case. (89 pts.)
2001 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (102$)
Jane Anson: This tastes so much fresher and younger than the 2000, amazing the difference one year can make. Excellent vivacity and youth here. Really an excellent wine, with the poise and precision that you start to see coming into Calon at this time. Where the 2000 is all about generosity, this one is about precision and poise. We are back to the cassis flavours of a younger wine. Only complaint is that it has perhaps a touch of geosmin, an earthy character that suggests perhaps 100% of the fruit was not entirely ripe? A very very classic Medoc wine however. 93/100. Hightly recommended. Drink 2013-2035.
Kevin Shin: A classic claret, red fruits, red cassis, cedar, a hint of green and mineral. Slightly less than medium concentration, silky, soft, precise and nicely integrated tannins. Still quite youthful but drinking very well. Still not showing much tertiary but ready to go. Some noticeable tannins at the end. Although this is drinking incredibly well and very 2001, I don’t quite find anything too special, a nicely aged average classified growth. (91 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: Here a solid example of a Medoc 2001 that is provides structure and tannin for the longer haul. While opening 2001s and 2002s before the dinner, I was surprised by the air that 2001 needed. This wine obtained the most votes for wine to be consumed in 10 years. I would agree. The 2009 and 2010 need 20. (91 pts.)
2000 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (149$)
Jane Anson: We are getting close to 15 years for this wine, and as you would expect, the colour is just starting to soften. It is still a beautifully dark red, but with amber reflections beginning to appear around the edge. Oh, this is gorgeous, the fruit almost explodes in your mouth. Often I am a little underwhelmed with 2000s, at least in terms of their reputation, but not this one. Full of life and vivacity, fruit is still in fine form, but tannins have stayed firm and protective. An excellent wine that you would be super happy to drink now. Get a touch of animal aroma on the end of play, some gibier going on, worry that may become more obvious as fruit loses its power. 92/100. Highly recommended. Drink 2013-2035.
Kevin Shin: Dark fruit expression, plum, cassis, ink, lead pencil and mineral. Good concentration, chewy, a bit rustic and noticeable structure. Very good wine but a bit disappointing considering the vintage. (92 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: In a closed phase. I think that this wine has much potential but it seemed very muscular, pebbly and closed down. Do not touch now. (90 pts.)
1999 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (104$)
Kevin Shin: One of the most floral wine, ripe blue and red fruits and lead pencil. A bit more concentration that the 98, ripe dark fruit palate impression and noticeable tannins that are a bit dry. Still need time but open for business. (90 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: Smooth and accessible. I recall trying this along with Montrose 1999 five years ago in Bordeaux, and many preferred the Calon Segur 1999. This wine seems very juicy and accessible and some at my table loved it more than either the 1998 or the 2000 - at first. But over time, we realized its limitations. If you have any 1999, enjoy it sooner than later. (90 pts.)
1998 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (106$)
Jane Anson: A vintage that is seen as being one of the strongest of the 1990s, but more typically on the Right Bank than the Left, so maybe the clays of Saint Estephe helped. The nose holds promise of still poised, crispy fruit, and indeed it tastes much younger, but without the nuances of the 1995. This is a fine wine, with great race and precision, firm bilberry, fig and prune, no truffle notes appearing yet here. Has appearance of ripe but not over ripe fruit, but for me not as majestic as the 1995. To drink now but can easily wait a few years more before opening, and no rush. 92/100. Highly recommended. Drink 2013-2024.
Kevin Shin: Bright jammy candied red fruits, cedar, lead pencil and earth. Medium concentration, sweet red fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and nicely integrated tannins. For me this and the 01 are two that are drinking really well in youthful way. Both quite clean, pure and classic. Lovely. (92 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: What a very pleasant surprise. The Cabernets have been tamed with time in bottle. 1998 saw rainfall that messed up the Cabernet harvest - otherwise it would have been like 2000. 1998 was a great year for Merlot and Calon Segur included some 50 percent Merlot in this period, so we have a wine with a very endearing nose followed by structure that has some flesh. Lovely stuff! (92 pts.)
1996 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (134$)
Kevin Shin: Mostly red fruit driven, quite mineral, lead pencil, cedar, a hint of eucalyptus Classic claret and drinking extremely well in very youthful way. This is a classic St. Estephe, quite mineral, precise and pure. (94 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: What lovely cool blueberry fruit. This had much precision and focus and it was one of my favorite wines of the evening. It was interesting to compare this to 1995 and 1989. Keith Levenberg loved the 1995, and while the 1995 may have had more substance on the mid palate, I think that the 1996 conveyed greater freshness and precision. An interesting comparison to be sure. (93 pts.)
1995 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe(132$)
Jane Anson: This is nearly 20 years old now, incredibly, and made when Madame de Gasqueton was grieving for her husband, who died during the harvesting of this wine. It was a late harvest year, with beautiful weather in September, offering ripe tannins that are of course by now fully smudged and softened into a gossamer covering over the fruit. On the nose get faint blue cheese, that wonderfully foodie ageing claret smell, very soft black truffles, acidity is climbing up a little higher than I would like for it to be perfect. But this is a beautiful wine, and who wouldn't be happy to pull a cork on it? Very soft tannins, spreading autumnal fruits, stewed prunes with classic liquorice and truffle, touches of eugenol (cloves), can still see oak influence after all these years, but beautifully integrated. Just touch out of balance from the acidity levels. We had this at lunch also, and the blue cheese was pronounced again, as was the lusciously comforting fruit. 95/100. Highly recommended. Drink 2013-2023.
Kevin Shin: Red fruits, plum, cedar and caramel. This next to the 96 reminded me the 95 vs 96 Margaux. The 96 better defined and more classic. This seems a bit monolithic. (91 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: The aromatics were more roasted to the cool 1996. The palate quite enveloping and full bodied and - pleasing. I liked the palate feel and the fact that I felt this wine pushing my flavor sensors in a good way. But it had just a touch of monolithic to it. (91 pts.)
1989 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (142$)
Kevin Shin: The first fully matured example showing mostly tertiary notes. Bright red fruits, plum, quite sweet, cedar and caramel. Medium concentration, silky palate, bright acidity and nicely integrated tannins. I believe this was WOTN for some participants. For me, this is a fully matured claret that is drinking wonderfully. The complexity is coming mostly from cellaring. (91 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: Here some bottle variation, and one table had the really good bottle (among the three per vintage). Still, I could understand why over half of the 35 participants at this marvelous dinner chose this wine to be their favorite among the 16 vintages to drink today. From Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages to Kathy Morgan, master sommelier, this was the proverbial "wine of the night". I liked the bloody aspect to this wine, which paired superbly with the lamb: an excellent wine/food pairing, but still found myself more into the 1996. (92 pts.)
1982 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (314$)
Jane Anson: As ever, the presentation of 1982 vintage brought a sense of excitement to the table (we only drank this at lunch, with Pauillac lamb and cepe macaroni, not in the vertical). It doesn’t match the power of some of its neighbours such as Montrose 82 today, but it has a wonderful blue cheese and black truffle aroma that you can slip effortlessly into. I drank every drop of this, while all other vintages mentioned in this vintage I tasted, noted, left at least half the glass. So soft, have caramel, creme caramel to be more specific on both the nose and palate, and the fruit has slid into a compote, prune compote, not jammy but soft and relaxed, with still subtle persistency. If you have this wine, don’t wait forever, but be prepared for a very special experience. 93/100. Highly recommended. Drink 2013-2020.
Kevin Shin: Fully mature, love ripe red fruits, dry red fruits, plum and cherry, caramel, cedar and leather. A bit soft and need a bit more energy. (92 pts.)
Panos Kakaviatos: Once again: bottle variation. There are 1982s and there are 1982s. Just three years ago, a Calon Segur 1982 beat out most others as the "best". But we have had a string of slightly oxidized or tired versions this evening. The one at our table was not oxidized but somewhat muted. With air, it started to liven up, but it had already been carafed for about one hour - and we were worried about too much contact. Although it firmed up, it never achieved a superior level of complexity and nuance that I had had with another 1982 some three years ago. (91 pts.)
The Menu
Ripple: In a comfortable setting, just across the street from the historic Uptown Theater in Cleveland Park, Ripple offers a complete dining experience, with a focus on sustainability, organic and locally-acquired produce, and a good time. We are proud to support local farmers and co-ops in our mission to bring the best products to the table. In addition, we have an extensive wine, beer and cocktail menu, to complete any meal. Above all, we believe in hospitality and hope that everyone who dines with us will feel comfortable and enjoy their time with us. We truly are a place to eat, drink, and gather.
Ripple was chosen in 2013 as one of the 100 Best Wine Restaurant in the USA (by Wine Enthusiast).
See:
America's 100 Best Wine Restaurants: The Northeast - Wine Enthusiast 2013
Executive Chef: Marjorie Meek-Bradley
GM and Wine Director: Danny Fisher
venison carpaccio,
cocoa-crusted, mushroom purée
vintages: 2008, 2009, 2010
glazed veal sweetbreads
sweet potato purée, guanciale-wrapped prunes
vintages: 2005, 2006, 2007
potato gnocchi
beef cheek ragu, parmesan
vintages: 2001, 2002, 2003
pigeon breast
raviolo, rutabaga, creamed spinach
vintages: 1998, 1999, 2000
lamb saddle & shoulder
roasted sunchokes
vintages: 1989, 1995, 1996
mimolette
pain perdu, currant purée
vintage: 1982
Comparing Notes
Panos Kakaviatos taking notes at the end of the tasting.
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As usual, Christian, what a great job of summing things up. With fine images. I hope that you and Annette had a good time. I need to lose weight however :-). In any case, upon reflection, I think Jane was correct in her praise for the 2001. I probably undergraded 2005, in the context of higher expectations. And perhaps overrated 2007, given how well it paired with the food.
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