A few weeks ago, German wine journalist Stuart Pigott published in the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung his favorite German wines and favorite German wine makers of the year – in German (Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung, 26. November 2017).
Below please find his list of favorites with his comments, which I translated into English; I also added pictures of some of Stuart's favorites.
For last years' lists, see:
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2017)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2016)
Germany’s Best Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2015)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2014)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2013)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2012)
Best German Wine and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2011)
Stuart Pigott
Stuart Pigott , born in the UK, was Berlin-based for more than 20 years. During this period, he emerged as the leading German wine writer, mostly writing in German, and focusing on German wine. Notably, since 2001, he’s been the wine columnist for the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (Germany’s equivalent of the New York Times or the South China Morning Post), and he’s even filmed three series for the acclaimed TV show Wine Wonder Germany for the public broadcast channel of Bavaria.
A few years ago, Stuart Pigott started to spend a lot of time in New York City, turning his attention to the global world of Riesling. His first major output of the move to New York City was a major book about Riesling in the world, which was published in June 2014: The Best White Wine on Earth: The Riesling Story.
Since 2016, Stuart is back in Germany, in the Frankfurt Area.
He also joined JamesSuckling.com as a contributing editor. He is in charge of the wines of Germany and Austria as well as the East Coast of the United States.
See also:
Best Wine Bars: On the Heels of Stuart Pigott in New York
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA
Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016
Stuart Pigott’s Favorites
Winzer des Jahres - Winemaker of the Year: Christian Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl
When Christian Stahl took over in 2000 the winemaking responsibility at Winzerhof Stahl, the vineyard area totalled 1.5 hectares of this mixed farming estate. 18 years later, Stahl looks back on about 2,000 percent growth, which makes some world-famous German winemaker look pretty pale. Of course, that's not a compelling reason to give him this award. Decisive for this is the combination of this growth with the consistently first-class quality of the wines of Christian Stahl and his enormous innovation drive. Already a decade ago, he attracted attention with his groundbreaking expressive dry white wines from the much-vaunted Müller-Thurgau grape and the surprisingly lively and juicy Silvaner white wines. Since then he is also one of the best German producers of dry white wines from the varieties Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, without imitating the French specialists. The 2017 Edelstahl barrel 500 bottling from these two varieties show a sensational harmony of ripe fruit, body, freshness and subtle oak notes from the new wooden barrel (each € 38, not yet on sale, can be reserved). No wonder that Stahl's wines are so successful in top-class gastronomy.
Entdeckung des Jahres – Discovery of the Year: Carolin Weiler, Weingut Weiler
How can it be that I did not know Weingut Weiler until recently? Carolin Weiler's father, Richard, is one of the more quiet people in the country, and Lorch in the Rheingau lies a long way behind the railway barrier in Rüdesheim, where most day trippers and tourists from the Rhine-Main area are turning back. However, Weingut Weiler makes racy Rieslings, such as the 2017 Lorcher Bodenthal Steinberg Quarzit with a lot of power with only 11% alcohol (Euro 12 from the farm) and very "herbe" Spätburgunder red wines, like the 2015 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg with fine floral notes and exciting spicy notes. Weiler is still studying at the Wine University in Geisenheim, and we will certainly hear a lot from her over the next few years, including through the documentary film "Weinweiblich", which premieres in the fall of 2019.
Aufsteiger des Jahres – Rising Star of the Year: Carolin Bergdolt, Weingut Bergdolt
With the brilliant Grand Crus Reiterpfad Achtmorgen Riesling GG and Mandelpfad Weissburgunder GG from the 2017 vintage, Carolin Bergolt has succeeded in making two serious white wine of the year candidates. Both (available for Euro 30 each) are of impressive fineness and elegance despite the considerable concentration of flavor. This raises the question of where else to find such filigree wines made from the Weissburgunder grape. But each of her wines, including the simple dry Riesling vom Graf (Euro 8.90), and the red Sptäburgunder bring this quality into the glass. Her very fine and unpretentious wines have it difficult in the media, because she never lets the big flag rattle in the social media wind and more generally this is not Bergdolt's thing. She focuses on perfecting her wines and trusts her inner strength to persuade alert professionals and interested consumers. She succeeds in doing this over and over. .
Schaumwein des Jahres - Sekt of the Year: NV Sekt Reserve Brut, Reichsrat von Buhl
German sparkling wine was for a long time very successful in two market segments: on the one hand quite cheap brands, which flooded the market in huge amounts, and on the other hand small editions, high-quality, artisanal Winzersekte. For some years, however, Matthieu Kauffmann, the French director and winemaker of Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl, has succeeded in achieving considerable success in the mid-price segment. Until 2013, he was the cellar master of the Bollinger Champagne House. He combines the knowledge from there with Palatine grapes to create impressive sparkling wines such as the multi-layered and elegant sparkling wine Reserve Brut. His secret? Among other things, the small amount of sulfur, with which he brings the new Von Buhl Sekt on the market. This allows a development of great aromas, which we love.
Weißwein des Jahres - White Wine of the Year: 2017 Idig Riesling Großes Gewächs, Weingut Christmann
"The Colosseum among the German Rieslings," was my description of the Idig from Weingut Christmann, when during the 1990s Steffen Christmann received a lot of attentation with his dry Rieslings from the forgotten top location. Since then, he has significantly reduced the power of the wines, and they have gained a lot of originality. His Idig GG from the 2017 vintage represents a new climax for Weingut Christmann and the Pfalz thanks to its enormous mineral depth and a balance that still makes the wine taste delicate. The fine aromas reminiscent of mirabelle plum and apricot are the icing on the cake of this brilliant German white wine, which does not need to shy away from a comparison with dry whites from any other part of the wine world.
Rotwein des Jahres - Red Wine of the Year: 2015 Rüdesheimer Drachenstein Pinot Noir, Chat Sauvage
An estate in the Rheingau that focuses on Pinot Noir and some white Chadonnay? Really? Yes, that's exactly what the entrepreneur Günter Schulz from Hamburg created in the year 2000. With the 2005 vintage, the red wines of the house have gone a further step up in quality thanks to the work of new General Managerr Verena Schöttle: I can recommend all her wines (prices from 18 euros per bottle). At the top of this impressive portfolio is the 2015 Pinot Noir from the Drachenstein in Rüdesheim. As spicy as it is seducing with a firm structure in which mineral acidity and tart odors are wonderfully intertwined, it is reminiscent of a Burgundian Grand Cru with a correspondingly fat three-digit Euro price. The wine is just beginning to bring great joy, but still has its best years ahead of it.
Preis-Leistung des Jahres - Best Price/ Quality Ratio of the Year: 2017 St. Remigiusberg Riesling, Weingut Tesch
Some readers will wonder why we chose a dry Riesling for Euro 16.50 as the price/ quality wine of the year. Where are the wines for Euro 4.99? And in a country where many good earners love to shop at the discounter supermarket! But price/ quality has two sides, and the ratio between the two matters. The 2017 St. Remigiusberg Riesling by Martin Tesch, our winemaker of the year 2012, offers enormous character and fineness for this price. At the same time, many German Rieslings of this quality cost two to threefold now! As the impressive 2017 St. Remigiusberg Riesling continues to prove, this wine may taste dusty and slender, and have a screw cap (which some traditionalists still find awful), but can easily be put away for a decade.
schiller-wine: Related Postings
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA
Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016
Best Wine Bars: On the Heels of Stuart Pigott in New York
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA
Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016
Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany
The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Harvest at Weingut A. Christmann, with Steffen Christmann. See: Winery Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann, with Steffen Christmann – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)
Bourgogne in Riesling Land: Tasting at Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with (at the time) Winemaker Michael Städter – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting with Martin Tesch at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe: Riesling and Rock 'N' Roll - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Impressive Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl in Deidesheim, Pfalz, with Richard Grosche - Germany-South and Alsace 2018 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
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