Niche Import & Co (USA): "Patrick Honnef graduated from Wine Management & Winemaking in Heilbronn, Germany. Following that, he worked as a Technical Director of Château d’Aiguilhe for 10 years and was supported by the remarkable wine consultant Stephane Derenencourt. At the end of 2013, he was presented with the opportunity to become Technical Director of Château Mukhrani. He is currently working to position Château Mukhrani wines at the top of the Georgian wine culture."
General Manager/ Winemaker Patrick Honnef was our host. We toured with him the winemaking facilities, followed by a seated tasting of 8 wines, led by Patrick Honnef.
Indeed, I met Patrick Honnef the first time when he was Technical Director of Chateau d’Aiguilhe, owned by Count Stephan of Neipperg, in Bordeaux.
See: A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux
Annette and I spent a week in Georgia, the small country that used to be part of the Soviet Union, located between the Black See and the Caspian See. The area is considered to be the birthplace of wine. Research indicates that wine has been made in Georgia for 8000 years. There are over 500 indigenous grape varieties in Georgia. Traditionally, wine in Georgia has been made (fermented and aged) in amphoras burried in the ground.
This was a group-tour of the Collegium Vini, an association of wine lovers in the Frankfurt/ Germany area, of which we are members. The tour was organized by GEORGIENREISEN. Co-owner Tea Totogashvili was our guide. The focus of the tour was on culture and wine.
See here for an overview posting: Georgia Wine Tour 2019: Discovering the Birthplace of Wine
Wine in Georgia
Georgia is located in an area that is considered to be the birthplace of wine. Research indicates that wine has been made in Georgia for 8000 years. There are over 500 indigenous grape varieties in Georgia. Traditionally, wine in Georgia has been made (fermented and aged) in amphoras burried deep in the ground.
Georgia is a small, Christian country with a difficult history. In particular, it was part of the Russian Zsar's Empire. During that period the influence of French winemaking and French cuisine was important. More recently, Georgia was part of the Soviet Union. During the Soviet Union period Georgia was the chief provider of wine for the whole country.This was essentially low-cost mass wine shipped in tanks to all regions of the Soviet Union and bottled there. There was no commercial qvevri winemaking during the Soviet Union period. The commercial sector was dominated by huge stainless steel tanks to produce sweet-style wines.
After the break-up of the Soviet Union and various conflicts between Russia and Georgia, the Georgian wine sector has been adjusting to the new market conditions. The production of inexpensive, often sweet-style wines for Russia and other neighboring countries remains important.
At the same time, the amber wine revolution has discovered Georgia and Georgia has become an important player in the natural wine scene, including in New York, Berlin, London etc. But quevri wines account only for 3% of Georgia's wine exports. Still, they account for 100% of the buzz.
Tradionally, both red and white wine have been fermented and aged in quevris, burried in the ground for temperature control purposes. Basically each family in Georgia has a quevri where they make there wine in this ancient method. Typically, quevri wines are no-sulfur wines with natural yeast only. Whole-bunch fermentation is the rule.
While the buzz is about the hard-core qvevri winemaking where the grapes are fermented with their skins, pips and stems and aged for an extensive period in a qvevri, you also find winemakers that combine the traditional Georgian approach with modern approaches like aging in barrels or fermenting in qvevris but without skins, pips and stems. In fact, there is a whole range of quevri winemaking.
Interestingly, not once went a winemaker with us to the vineyard and we did not have one single-vineyard wine in Georgia. In general it seems that vineyard issues are on the backburner in Georgia.
Château Mukhrani
Château Mukhrani: Château Mukhrani is based on the historical tradition of wine-making in Mukhrani region. This is the first and the only true Georgian Royal Chateau, which unites four key components: vineyards, winery, castle and history. In 1512 Mukhrani became the prince’s estate, governed by Bagrationi royal family. Mukhranian wine production was established by Ivane Mukhranbatoni a famous representative of royal family, political and public figure of the 19th century. In 1876, Ivane Mukhranbatoni returned from France with Chateau concept knowledge and since then the history of Château Mukhani’s winemaking starts.
During the Soviet time Château Mukhrani was abandoned and almost destroyed. In 2002, a group of businessmen, Frederik Paulsen, Mamuka Khazaradze and Badri Japaridze laid basis for restoration of the project of Château Mukhrani. Group intended to revive the estate to its former glory and re-establish production at Mukhrani, combining modern and traditional technologies. New investment group aims to create strong international brands, which will serve as a profound representative of Georgian wine on international market.
In 2007, major investment was made in new winery of Château Mukhrani. Now it is equipped with ultra-modern technology and corresponds with ISO 9001:2005 Food Safety and ISO 9001:2008 Quality Management standards.
Along with modern winery, Château Mukhrani Cellar was also reconstructed, returning to unique origin, which has great historical value. Today the cellar is fully reconstructed and stores more than 1000 barrels of wine at constant temperature of 16C.
Since 2007, Château Mukhrani is making wine from grapes harvested in its own vineyards. To make the wine more exquisite and truly unique, winery receives grapes for processing maximum in 15 minutes from harvesting.
Patrick Honnef - Winemaker, Viticulturist, CEO Château Mukhrani
Château Mukhrani: Graduated from Wine Management and Winemaking in Heilbronn, Germany, I spent 11 years in the Bordeaux region and worked as a Technical Director of Chateau d’Aiguilhe for 10 years and was supported by the remarkable wine-consultant Stephane Derenencourt. The powerful Merlot dominated reds of Chateau d’Aiguilhe were regularly noted between 88-92 points, top-scores for a not classified cru of Bordeaux. End of 2013 the challenge to become technical director of Château Mukhrani in the Caucasian Republic of Georgia crossed my way. The huge potential and history of the “Cradle of Wine” is a dream for each passionate about wine.
Today this country is embracing its renaissance of wine culture, combining ancient amphora winemaking (known as Qvevris) and modern international techniques. Be part of this process, rediscover the autochthone grape varieties and reveal their great potential is marvelous.
At Château Mukhrani, we work with hand-picked 102 ha of vineyards, all surrounding the winery, with a low density of plantation, with the objective to grow the best quality grapes, as the base of a great wine. Focussed on rare, forgotten grape varieties and equipped with a beautiful modern winery, we are working to position Château Mukhrani wines in the top range of the Georgian wine culture. Always respecting and learning from the local terroir, we are striving for the finest wines of Georgia. Along this passion for wine, we are working with our team to restore our royal castle and become the leading wine tourism and hospitality estate in the country.
The Princes of Mukhrani
Château Mukhrani: The Princes of Mukhrani (Mukhranbatoni) stem from one of the oldest royal dynasties in the World - the Bagrationi. In 1512 King David of Kartli donated the Mukhrani Estate, dominating the Ksani and Aragvi gorges, to his brother Prince Bagrat. Since then his descendants have left their mark in all sectors of modern contemporary life - political, economic, as well as cultural in the great history of the proud Georgian Nation. Throughout the centuries this fertile land was attractive to many invaders and the Princes of Mukhrani protected it with courage against the various enemies. Sensible and brave warriors - they defended the land brilliantly and courageously. Their knightly nature, diligence and self-sacrifice allowed them to occupy the Royal Throne of the Country as early as the 17th century.
Castle
Château Mukhrani: In 1873, designed by French architects, Ivane Mukhranbatoni began construction of the castle that took 12 years to complete. The surrounding gardens were designed by a Versailles gardener. Both castle and grounds captured visitors’ attentions. The huge venue was a cultural centre for the Georgian elite. Ivane Mukhranbatoni hosted many guests including famous Georgian public figures counting writers and poets such as Ilia Chavchavadze and Akaki Tsereteli, along with the Russian Imperator of the time. The castle was famous for its Italian gilded furniture together with the first European parquet in Georgia. The castle’s first floor housed an amphitheater for 150 people, and on other floors were a variety of salons. During its renovation the castle was visited by 81 year-old Tatiana Faberge, descendent of the famous French Jeweler Carl Faberge. She also claimed to be the great-grand daughter of Ivane’s brother. Tatiana has initiated the return of the original furniture that was in the castle during the 19th century. After the renovation the furniture will be placed in the castle’s museum.
Tasting
We tasted 8 wines in the modern taating room of Château Mukhrani with Patrick Honnef.
The Wines Patrick Poured
2017 Château Mukhrani Goruli Mtsvane
Stainless steel only.
Vinification: Grapes are transferred into vibrating reception bins and then moved on an extremely gentle conveyor belt to the crusher. Destemming and immediate chilling of the must at 5 to 6°C while transferring for de-juicing or skin maceration under strict inert gas ambient with in-line injection as well as inert conditions in the tank space. Free run separation and juice settling under a temperature controlled environment. Decantation. Fermentation of clear juice at 14 to 15°C using only selected yeast species. Elevage by means of «sur lie». Style balance and preparation for bottling. Bottling is done under the highest standards protecting the wine from all possibilities for quality hazard.
2017 Château Mukhrani Rkatsiteli Supérieur
Stainless steel only.
2017 Château Mukhrani Rkatsiteli Royale
Stainless steel and aged in barrique.
2016 Château Mukhrani Qvevri
50% Mtsvane - 50% Rkatsiteli. 6 months in qvevri.
2016 Château Mukhrani Saperavi Supérieur
60% stainless steel, 40% barrique.
Patrick Honnef: Colour of opulent ruby. Bouquet of black mulberry, blackberry and cherry. Palate echoes with soft oak. Exuberant, yet velvety tannins are well balanced within the entire structure. The wine has excellent expressed vinosity. With age it may develop diamond-crystalline deposits, further showing its noble origin and revered handling.
Saperavi is Georgia’s endemic varietal and has all the noble characteristics making it one of the world’s most outstanding red wines. Saperavi is a rich, varietal, fruity wine of bountiful body and great vinosity.
Both red meat and game fried, grilled and stewed with spices. Excellent with mature cheeses of different styles.
2017 Château Mukhrani Qvevri
60% Saperavi, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. 3 months in qvevri and 18 months in used barrique.
2015 Château Mukhrani Collection Secrète
50% Saperavi, 30% Cabernet Franc, 25% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot.
2015 Château Mukhrani Réserve Royale
100% Saperavi. Aged in new oak for 24 months.
Patrick Honnef: The hues of its smooth sunbathed colour range from rich, dark red to crimson, with a notable glint of blue around the rim. Aromas of mulberry, blackberry, mixed with cherry. An excellent texture and well balanced palate offers a combined sensation of the varietal fruit and tannins from both grapes and oak, still to reach their final maturity. There is a long, pure and aromatic length. This wine is still maturing and shows enormous potential for storing in the cellar for up to 15 years. Once matured, it will reveal a character of oak aged Saperavi loved by all who have had the pleasure to taste this truly magnificent varietal of wine.
Saperavi is Georgia’s endemic variety and has all the noble characteristics making it one of the World’s most outstanding reds. The Microclimate of Mukhrani, where the grapes for this truly fine and exquisite wine grow, boasts of its pristine and almost wild virginal natural qualities. Through thousands of years the soil, the sun, the wine varietals, the winemakers and vignerons have combined to deliver the juice for wine of such elegance.
Both Red meat and game fried, grilled and stewed with spices. Excellent with mature cheeses of different styles.
Bye-bye
Many thanks Patrick for a great tour and tasting - à bientôt.
Good Night
Good Night.
schiller-wine: Related Postings - Georgia Wine Tour 2019: Discovering the Birthplace of Wine (Published and Forthcoming Postings)
Georgia Wine Tour 2019: Discovering the Birthplace of Wine
Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Iago Winery in Mtskheta, with Cult-winemaker Iago Bitarishvili - Georgia Wine Tour 2019
Wine-pairing Lunch at Pheasant's Tears, Arguably Georgia's Most Famous Winery - Georgia Wine Tour 2019
Tour, Tasting, Dinner and Overnight-stay at Schuchmann in Kakheti, with Roland Burdiashvili, Managing Director/ Assistant Winemaker - Georgia Wine Tour 2019
Tour, Extensive Tasting and Light Lunch at Tchotiashveli Estate, with Owner/ Winemaker Kakha Tchotiashvili - Georgia Wine Tour 2019
Tour of the Marani, Qvevri Wine Tasting and Shashlik Dinner at Martali Wine, with Owners/ Winemakers Nikoloz Bitskinashvili, Nikheil Bitskinashvili and Thomas Schubaeus - Georgia Wine Tour 2019
Tour and Extensive Tasting at Château Mukhrani with General Manager/ Winemaker Patrick Honnef
At Mosmieri Winebar and Shop in Tbilisi, with Château Mosmieri Owner Joerg Matthies
No comments:
Post a Comment