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Dinner, why I am/was lazy.
Monday, October 6, 2025
On day 2 of our Loire Valley wine tour we left Nantes in the morning heading towards the Atlantic Ocean. We didn’t make it to the ocean, but explored the estuary before the Loire empties into the ocean. This region is almost exclusively devoted to white wine, the "Muscadet" - made from the "Melon de Bourgogne" grape - with crackling acidity and sleek citrus fruit. You MUST go out tonight get some oysters or other seafood and enjoy. Get a vintage 4-6 years old, my favorite. After our two wineries, plus lunch, we arrived in Angers our home for two nights.
Our first winery. Maison Chéreau Carré, Château de Chasseloir. AOP Muscadet Sèvre et Maine.
There is evidence that the lands in this region have been cultivated since Roman times.
One
can see cellars, hewn from the ground and built up with schist and
sandstone. The Chéreau family can trace their presence in the Muscadet
region back to at least 1412. However serious viticulture only stared
with Bernard Chéreau after WWII with the acquisition of more vineyards.
The domain began to take the form when Bernard Chéreau married Edmonde
Carré, who brought Château l'Oiselinière into the portfolio and with the
purchase of Château de Chasseloir in 1953. Later the acquisition of two
more wine estates brought the vineyard area to about 180 acres.
Today
the estate comprises four separate properties: Château de la Chesnaie,
Château du Bois Bruley, Château l'Oiselinière, Château de Chasseloir.
All vineyards are managed sustainable and are certified HVE (High
Environmental Value) and mainly planted with Melon de Bourgogne.
The last remaining tower from the castle that once stood here.
A see-through barrel that is filled with wine. You can see how the wine changes as it matures. The residue is the lees or the dead yeast cells left over after fermentation.
After touring the vines and other historic buildings involved in production, we sat down to taste the wines.
The middle bottle was our favorite.
Our
second winery. Domaine Gadais Père et Fils, in Saint Fiacre-sur-Maine.
The domaine exists as a mixed farming estate since before the French
Revolution.
In 1947 Louis Gadais
decided to concentrate only on wine production. In 1958 they wrote
history when Franck Schoonmaker, an importer of high-quality French
wines paid them a visit and started to import Gadais Muscadet wines into
the US. Today it is Christoph Gadais, fifth generation, and his son
Pierre-Henri Gadais, great-grandson of two brilliant Loire winemakers -
Louis Gadais in the Muscadet region and Henri Bourgeois in the Sancerre
region who are running the domaine. Pierre-Henri pushes the domaine into
a new direction: while training abroad he gained interest in organic
and biodynamic agriculture and they farm sustainably now. The 125 acres
of vineyards are exclusively planted with the Melon de Bourgogne grape
and are divided into 100 small parcels to show the specific terroir. "It
is the richness and geological diversity, as well as limited yields,
that have earned the estate its reputation today" the Gadais family
says.
Winemaker for a day.
Tasted a few more wines here. The even number wines (left to right) were our favorites with the 1947 magnum bottle a must find. WOW.
Entering Angers we drove past the castle. Tuesday afternoon, after much wine we will tour the castle.
A theatre next door to our evening restaurant.
Dinner, with a former Top Chef France winner.
Was there a full moon where you are?
Shrimp and greens with an anoli.
Does this look like chicken liver to you? susan loved it, me I didn’t get close.
Dessert. A chocolate apple filled with mousse and bits of fruit.
Dinner wines.
Our hotel elevator.
Tuesday, October 7, 2025
Day 3 had us exploring the Anjou wine region and AOP Savennières appellation. The only grape allowed is Chenin Blanc, one of my favorite grapes. After a late lunch we headed back to Angers to focus on history, without a glass in hand. Tomorrow we head to Saumar.
Angers street art.
Visit of Domaine Loïe Mahé, AOP Savennières, Anjou.
The Domaine Loic Mahé is a rather young wine estate but quickly earned the reputation as one of the premium Chenin Blanc producers. After working as an advisor at the local Chamber of Agriculture, Loïc Mahé planted his first vines in 2000 in Savennières.
Today, he has 15 acres planted entirely with Chenin Blanc. From day one he worked according to organic and biodynamic principles and in the meantime the Domaine is certified by Ecocert. The soil here is distinct and makes for some of the best Chenin Blanc produced anywhere. He is a direct neighbor of the famous Coulée de Serrant vineyard. Loc's vineyards have the two primary soils of Savennières: the classic schist (sometimes called shale) of the region, and loess (a windblown sand), locally called "sables". Loïc holds back the wines a couple of years before release to give them the time to build up weight and to add intensity.
The owner of the Chateau lives in the manor and leases the facility on the right to the wine maker.
Fermenting with full fruit for 1 year.
Our tasting flight. The center bottle was my favorite.
Our second winery. Château des Vaults, Domaine du Closel in Savennière, Anjou.
Domaine
du Closel is located right in the center of the cute village of
Savennières and produces some of the most beautiful Chenin Blanc wines.
The property, the impressive Château des Vaults, was first mentioned in
1495. The château we see today was rebuilt in the 19th century and the
park was created in 1850. At that time the family of Emmanuel de Las
Cases, biograph of Napoleon, inherited the château and a line of female
winemakers and estate managers was born. In 2001 Evelyne de Pontbriand, a
literary scholar, who had lived and worked in the US and Germany, took
over the reins.
The 35 acres of
vineyards are spread out on the most western hill of Savennières and the
best plots are Les Caillardières and Clos du Papillon. Evelyne de
Pontbriand was a lover of nature and botanics. She immediately started
the conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture and today the
domain is certified organic and biodynamic by Ecocert and Demeter.
Evelyn's goal is to make wines that are expressing their origins. She
says: "Thanks to grassing and plowing, the life of the soil is
respected, the soil's micro-organisms are active: oxygen comes into
action allowing maximum exchanges between soil and vine. This is how we
obtain the famous terrior effect: combination of soil, the precocity of
its warming, plant material, and light." Sadly Evelyn died in the last
year.
Us with the vines
Guard goose. Who do you think won?
Our tasting flight. They snuck in one red Cabernet Franc blend which I loved.
The ladies of the tour
The entrance to the Château Angers. Some say the exhibit of the Apocalypse Tapestry inside is the highlight, but I loved to castle and grounds. Construction of this mighty fortress and castle started in 970 to protect the Anjou region from any invasion coming from the north from Normandie. You feel tiny when you stand before this imposing Medieval fortress with its 17 defensive towers.
The Apocalypse Tapestry is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage historic monument. It is the largest set of tapestry known to date. It was commissioned by Louis I, the Duke of Anjou in 1373 and it took seven years to finish. The tapestry describes the story of the Apocalypse from the Book of Revelation in colorful scenes in 74 pictures: 103 meters long, 4.50 meters high, 74 scenes, virtuoso weaving, striking details, expressive characters, a fantastic story evoking wars, pollution, disease, famine, death, but also hope: an encounter with a masterpiece unique in the world.
Inside the Chapel on the grounds. Sadly in WWII the stain glass was destroyed. Although this panel is from the same original period from another church.
Looking out from the ramparts
A modern art piece with inspiration being the number of prisoners who died here. Note the hands and bodies within the wire mesh.
Another moat view.
The grounds with chapel in the back.
Saint-Maurice Cathedral, primarily built in the 12th century, with many renovations and additions made throughout the centuries. We couldn’t take a picture from the front of the cathedral as it is under renovation.
Altar
Very famous stained glass again representing the Apocalypse.
As we walked through the city, a few wood framed buildings still remain.
It’s fall.
Note the sign. VIP Lounge. How appropriate
A
perfect start to the day. We visited Domäne Vincendeau in
Rochefort-sur-Loire, Anjou. Tasting was three Crémants, sparkling wine,
and one still wine.
I will let
Liv Vincendeau speak: "Born in Darmstadt, Germany, where I also grew up,
I first went to study (Master II in chemistry) in York (UK) and
Strassburg (Alsace). Arriving in Anjou in 2000 during
viticulture-oenology training, I have remained faithful to this
beautiful province ever since. Creating my own domain - a dream!... and
then a carefully prepared project. Many winegrowers from France and
elsewhere have passed on to me their know-how and their passion for this
magnificent profession. I thank them wholeheartedly. 2014 is the year
of implementation and since then each vintage is a new adventure."
She
produces racy Chenin Blanc, two types of Rosé produced from a blend of
traditional and autochthon grape varietals, a noble sweet Coteaux du
Layon Rochefort, and spectacular Crémant de Loire. Her Crémant "Zeitlos"
is raved about in every single top wine magazine. The domaine is
certified biodynamic by Demeter.
The whole group plus the lovely wine maker.
Our second winery. Several days ago I suggested immediately to go out and try Muscadet wines as the price was so inexpensive. Well we are now tasting more expensive Chenin. Go try them as they are wonderful, but your wallet will shed a tear.
Domaine Belargus in Saint-Lambert du Lattey, Anjou.
"This is one of the most spectacular new entries in the history of The Wine Advocate, and it makes the Loire, especially its tributary, the Layon river, one of the most fascinating terroirs in the Anjou region. Domaine Belargus is the name that should soon populate the world's finest wine lists, especially since the prices are - still?- affordable." I quote Stephan Reinhart, The Wine Advocate. The domaine was originally the Pithon-Paillé domaine owned by renowned winemaker Jo Pithon who was known for his stunning dry Chenin Blancs. He sold the estate in 2018 to businessman Ivan Massonnat. Belargus has 60 acres of vineyards on exceptional terroir, a mosaic of millenary terroirs 100% dedicated to Chenin Blanc. The domaine's mission is to express their quintessence through a single-plot approach. The most spectacular parcel of vines is the famous Les Treilles hillside, a sort of Côte Rôtie of the Loire. Only in years with good botrytis, some sweet wines are also produced. The Domaine is certified biodynamic.
Hill of vines.
We spotted one butterfly, but in the spring and summer they are covered with tiny blue butterflies.
Like these.
On to our third winery, plus lunch. Domaine de la Soucherie in Beaulieu-sur-Layon, Anjou.
The viticultural domaine is part of the Château Soucherie which was originally a farm owned by the Duke of Brissac. He built this château as a leisure place. In 2007 the château was acquired by Roger-François Béguinot, who made his fortune in infant nutrition. The beautiful château and the winery sit on a high point above the Layon river. The 70 acres of vineyards are immediately around the château on gentle south-facing slopes running down to the river. The soils are various types of schist. A wide variety of wines is produced: the whites from Chenin Blanc: a noble sweet Côteaux du Layon, an every day Anjou Blanc, a top Chaume 1 er Cru, and a top Savennière "Clos des Perrières". Grape varieties planted are Gamay, Grolleau, Cabernet Franc for the reds and Chenin (94%) and Chardonnay (6%) for the whites. The view from the château over the valley in the distance is breathtakingly gorgeous.
Wow too.
It’s fall.
Lunch
Wonder why some vines go red and some golden in the fall.
The beginnings of this beautiful property go back to the 15h century. The location is just gorgeous: it sits on a slope overlooking the Loire river. In the late 19th century the château and vineyards came into the possession of Antoine Christal who transformed the estate into the jewel of the Saumur-Champigny region. In 2006 Regis Vincent bought the estate and continues to make it the jewel of the Loire Valley.
Today the estate has 87 acres of vineyards in four plots. All plots are located on exceptional clay-limestone soils. The estate is certified organic by Ecocert and biodynamic by Demeter.
The chateau is being renovated to someday be a hotel and restaurant.
An original press and vat.
Today’s cellar. I think I heard 3+ kilometers of cellar.
Terraced vines.
Great view.
Antoine Christal built a special vineyard called a 'clos.
Around this 'clos,' there are eleven additional walls, each placed between every two rows of vines. These walls have holes near the bottom so the vines can grow through them and face the sunny south while being protected from the wind on the other side of the wall. This setup, as the French say, gives the vines cool feet and a warm belly from the sun,' which helps the grapes grow well. This single vineyard is called "Clos d'Entre Les Murs" and unique to Château de Parnay
Cold feet.
Warm vines.
The original grafting house where the vines were rescued from phylloxera.
Our last tasting of the day.
Our hotel for two nights.
And the view from our hotel window.
Walking into town for dinner, we enjoyed the sunset.
Dinner. This unassuming small restaurant rightly deserves a Bib Gourmand which is a distinction just one step below a Michelin star. Chef François Deplange will introduce you to a refined traditional cuisine with creative twists. His spouse is front of house and greeted us with a warm welcome.
Amuse-bouche #2, mushroom soup.
Appetizer of octopus.
Susan’s main—cod and artichoke.
I had veal.
Almost forgot dessert. Lava cake.
The chef. A great evening.
Thursday, October 9, 2025
The abbey and the monastic order "Order Fontevraud" was founded by a preacher in 1101. The order was recognized as a religious community by the Bishop of Angers. It was a unique order as it was a double monastery: there were nuns and monks following the same rules. The French revolution put an end to the monastery. Luckily, for a long time the buildings served as prison and that saved the monastery from dilapidation. Still today the monastery is of high historic relevance: we will pay a visit to the tombs of the Plantagenêts who like no others shaped Frances' history: The union of Henry II, Duke of Anjou, later the king of England and most powerful ruler of the Middle Ages, married Eleonor of Aquitaine, herself one of the most powerful women of her time. Because of this union large parts of France came under English rule - for wine lovers: Bordeaux and the Loire Valley were English for 300 years. Henry II, his wife and their two sons Richard Lionheart and John Lackland and daughter-in-law Isabella of Angoulême are buried here.
The paintings are real although throughout the years, many times, occupants of the Abby would overpaint their faces or even insert a family scene.
The roof of the kitchen.
I’ve been replaced.
Clotilde Legrand - Domaine Legrand in Varrains, Anjou.
The Legrand family can trace their wine grower history back to the 17th century. In 2014 the first women - Clotilde Legrand - took over and has since become an icon in the Saumur-Champigny appellation. The domaine farms 44 acres, mostly planted with Cabernet-Franc, and a tiny parcel with Chenin Blanc. The vineyards are divided into about twenty plots spread out over the villages of Saumur, Dampierre, Chacé, Varrains, and Souzay-Champigny. The average age of the vines is 45 years, with the oldest being planted in 1927. The soils are clay-limestone and these produce the best Saumur-Champigny wines. In Saumur, the vines grow on gentle slopes which are traditionally enclosed by walls, hence a "Clos". These tufa (the local name) walls ensure optimal maturation of the grapes through their protection and brightness. All fruit is harvested manually, fermentation is spontaneously, followed by malolactic fermentation and adding sulfites. There is no fining and filtering before bottling.
Down to the caves. The caves were created centuries ago for mining of limestone to build houses, castles, chateaus and abbeys.
Great place to store potatoes
Our tasting. All excelllent.
Maison
Bouvet-Ladubay is one of France's greatest producers of méthode
traditionnelle sparkling wine. It is also one of the oldest sparkling
wine producers in the Loire valley with a history of more than 170
years. In 1851 Etienne Bouvet and his wife, Celestine Ladubay purchased 8
km of underground tunnels in Saumur with the intention of turning them
into cellars. By the 1870s, Etienne was exporting his wines to England,
became an official supplier to the House of Lords, and had built a
majestic château, a theater, and his own power plant to serve the
estate. At the turn of the 19th / 20th century Bouvet Ladubay was one of
the largest sparkling wine producers in the world with an annual
production of 7 mio. bottles. The couple did not have any direct heirs
and after their death the Monmousseau family acquired the estate. Today
it is Juliette Monmousseau who runs the business. French wine law
dictates that "Crémant" must be produced in the traditional method and
that the bottles need to age a minimum of 9 months on the lees before
disgorgement. Very often the Crémant spend many more months on the lees
to enhance quality.
Actually a
disappointing visit. This winery is focused on volume and not so much
quality. Also it is so huge tours are impersonal. They built newer
production facility nearby and our visit was more a museum. We never
met Juliette.
A map of the caves.
Our tasting. I enjoyed the one on the right the best—the Brut with zero sugar.
I mentioned a museum earlier, they had an exhibit of buggies too.
The chateau at night.
Friday, October 10, 2025
Day 6 was Wine, Wine, lunch, Wine & dinner. A great day. We moved from the cities of Saumur to Amboise. The tastings were in and around the town of Chinon. I might have to come back to Chinon to explore the ruins of the fortress. Names associated with fortress include Joan of Arc, Henry II, Richard Lioneart and King Charles VII.
Winery # 1 at 10:00am. Domaine Bernard Baudry in Cravant-Les-Coteaux, Touraine.
"Bernard
Baudry founded his eponymous estate in the early 1980's with a couple
inherited hectares. After graduating from the Lycée de Beaune, he
quickly rose to prominence in the appellation for precise, textured
Chinon. Today, Bernard is technically retired (vignerons never really
retire) and his son Matthieu, who has been making wine with his father
since 2000, has taken over as head vigneron. Over the years, the father
and son team's fascination with Chinon's diverse terroirs have led them
to expand the estate to its current 70 acres." Quote of their importer
Louis/Dressner. The only grapes grown on the estate are Chenin Blanc and
Cabernet Franc. The farming is certified organic, all wines are bottled
without fining or filtering. Cravant les Côteaux's moderate maritime
climate is excellently suited to its cardinal grape: cabernet frane. But
at the core of the region's vinous character is the diversity of its
soils. The village takes its name from an old Gallic word for pebbles
and the domaine's vineyards encompass alluvial sands and gravelly flood
plains of the Vienne river. (the town of Chinon does not sit at the
Loire river, it is the Vienne river, a tributary to the Loire). The clay
and limestone plots are further inland. Domaine Bernard Baudry produces
eight different wines: one Chinon Rosé, two estate wines: Chinon Blanc,
Chinon Rouge 'Domaine' , and four single vineyard wines to showcase the
differentterroir: three Cabernet Francs and one Chenin Blanc. It was
very interesting to compare the 3 Cabernet Franc grown on different
soils.
The different soil types, left is sand then more combinations including clay and limestone.
Of course all the wineries we visited use the limestone caves that were created by mining for building blocks.
In Greece we saw 4 workers bottling and packing. Here only one. Draw your own conclusions.
Concrete tanks.
Our tasting flight.
My favorite.
Winery #2 is actually an add on to the itinerary and so glad it was.
Domaine Couly-Dutheil was founded in 1921 by Baptiste Dutheil, then developed by René Couly. Thanks to the quality of its terroirs, this four-generation family-run business enjoys an undisputed reputation in the Chinon vineyards, producing top-quality AOC Chinon wines.
Of the 2,000 hectares of Chinon vineyards, Domaine Couly-Dutheil alone vinifies almost 120 hectares, 90 of which are directly farmed. The vineyards are spread over three production terroirs: the gravel-sand plains on the banks of the Vienne river, which produce light, fruity thirst-quenching wines; the clay-silica slopes and plateaus, which produce fine, subtle wines; and the clay-limestone hillsides, which produce sumptuous AOC Chinon vins de garde.
Domaine Couly-Dutheil also produces two benchmark Chinon cuvées: Clos de l'Olive and Clos de l'Echo, which will delight lovers of AOC Chinon wines with character.
Who’s that in the mirror
My friend.
Fancy tasting room
Our tasting notes. Look closely for the prices. We need the first two bottles!
The tasting flight
Art?
Winery #3. M. Plouzeau in Chinon, Touraine.
In
1846 the Plouzeau family acquires Château de la Bonnelière on the left
bank of the Loire river near Chinon. Pierre Plouzeau replanted the
neglected vineyards in 1980. A winery was constructed at Château de la
Bonnelière in 1989. Marc Plouzeau took over in 1999 and converted to
organic viticulture. The wines are aged in a unique space: the cellars
under the fortress of Chinon. Here, in these caves, hewn from limestone
in the 12th century, the Plouzeau wines mature in oak or concrete eggs
and the bottles are also stored in these caves. I quote Marc Plouzeau:
"Our cellars under the fortress of Chinon are a major asset for an
optimal breeding. Our mono-parcellaires improve slowly in half-muids, at
a constant temperature of 12° C and at high hygrometry. In these
conditions, our wines are refined and stabilize naturally. The
winemaking techniques are ancestral but use all the modernity that
allows to preserve the best potential of grapes."
Entrance to the caves below a small part of the fortress of Chinon.
Delivering supplies throughout the caves.
Our tasting flight.
The cave map, although this winery only has access to the left maybe 1/8.
The city of Amboise & castle from our hotel window
The castle complex as we walk to dinner.
Dinner. Wonderful.
Amuse-bouche #2
My appetizer scallops. Mmmmmm
Susan’s appetizer sweetbreads.
Susan’s entree Quail.
My dessert. Apple something.
Guide Michelin: "In the heart of a wooded estate, this venue sets the scene for a culinary experience that is both delicate and daring under the auspices of Pierre Frindel, formerly at Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux. The chef delicately crafts local and less local produce, deploying his consummate skill and subtle creativity."
Awwww
The gang at Le Favori
Our menu.
Farm-raised Label Rouge chicken, eggplant, saffron.
Fig, walnut, goat milk.
A sweet extra treat.
Up close.
Lunch wines.
Me before Susan found me.
Château Chambord was built by François I. in the 16th century. It is the largest and most known Loire Château and also the most unusual one. With its 400 rooms, it never served as a residential palace, but rather as an impressive backdrop for State Visits. Charles V., Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire of German Nations, commented after a stay: *an epitome of what human art can produce."
Doomed from being a residence due to mosquitoes in the summer (that’s what happens when you build on a swamp) and unable to keep warm in the winter.
I always seem to be hiding in the dark.
On the second floor a modern art exhibit.
Our tasting was at Domaine François Chidaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire. The Domaine François Chidaine is a Loire Valley success story. François did not come with a prestigious wine domaine but built a flagship winery with his passionate focus on his philosophy of ecological responsibility and clever purchases of top vineyards.
Domaine François Chidaine sits in the heart of the Touraine region. François comes from a winemaking family in the region but started from scratch with a couple of acres to build his own domaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire in 1989. This family estate has now 120 acres of vineyards and is at the forefront of ecological sensible winemaking and agriculture. For over twenty years (certified biodynamic by Biodyvin since 1999) they practice biodynamic viticulture, soil conservation, and regenerative agriculture (implementing practices - for example: no till farming - that improve the rate at which CO2 is removed from the atmosphere and converted into plant material and soil organic matter). 60 acres in Montlouis and 25 acres in Vouvray - including the very prestigious Clos Baudoin - are planted with Chenin Blanc. It was interesting to taste the Chenin from those two appellations side by side.
King François I. was fascinated with Leonardo da Vinci and lured the genius to Amboise with three convincing arguments a castle at his sole disposal, a monthly pension, and -most importantly- the promise of artistic freedom. Leonardo da Vinci spent his last three years at this château before he passed away in his bedroom on May 2, 1519
I’m not sure this qualifies as a castle, but a very comfortable home.
Leonardo’s workshop and study.
Our lunch spot. This restaurant has a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin guide. I quote the guide." At this former coaching inn, you can enjoy the modern cuisine of chef Jean-François Beauduin, who learned his trade in Michelin-starred restaurants. His tempting menu abounds with wonderfully indulgent treats, which does not preclude finesse - the warm duck and foie gras pâté, shredded Brussels sprouts and langoustine sauce is a case in point. Seasonal and local ingredients are de rigueur. Note the selection of more traditional dishes, such as beuchelle tour angelle (creamed kidneys and sweetbreads). Charming service courtesy of the chef's wife, in a delightfully rustic setting. The pleasant terrace in the shade of mulberry trees is a real highlight."
My lobster appetizer.
Susan’s Foie gras appetizer.
Scallops for our main.
I had the flaming Soufflé
Driving towards the Château Royale d'Amboise
The entrance to the Château. The impressive Château Royal d'Amboise is regarded as the cradle of the Renaissance in France and French history was written here for over a century. Five kings of France resided in the Château d'Amboise. Under King Charles VIII and his wife Anne of Brittany, Italian splendor and enlightened thinking unfolded here. The metamorphosis from a feudal fortress to a Renaissance palace dates back to this era and the triumpf of the Renaissance began here. Much later, in 1560 during the religious wars an unimaginably horrific bloodbath that lasted several days occurred at the château when Catholics brutally killed hundreds of Protestants.
King Charles VIII died suddenly in 1498 (after hitting his head at Château d’Amboise). This video (not iin the posting) is a demonstration of how he injured himself running to a tennis match.
A interesting side note, his wife Anne of Brittany (who we met in Nantes) was left a widow. Because Brittany was an important and semi-independent duchy, French law required her to marry the next king to keep Brittany united with France. So, after Charles VIII’s death Anne married King Louis XII of France (Charles’s cousin and successor), becoming the only woman who became Queen twice.
Looking out over the Loire River.
Two days ago I showed you a view from our hotel room. Today looking back to our hotel on the hill.
Panhard was a French motor vehicle manufacturer that began as one of the first makers of automobiles. The hotel we stayed at had a car show for Panhards. Probably never imported to the USA.
Monday, October 13, 2025
For day 9 I struggled a bit to come up with a consistent theme for today’s post. Maybe just greatness. Great wine from the Vouvray region, the beautiful Château Chenonceau and for lunch & dinner at two typical local restaurants.
By the time we get home in another two weeks this is what I will look like, grape vines replacing my receding hairline.
Awww
Starting
our day off at a great winery. For me, one of the top two so far. Since
1770, Domaine Pichot has embodied the Pichot family's winemaking
heritage in Vouvray. Rooted in clay-limestone and clay-flint soils, the
family dedicatedly cultivates exceptional vineyards such as Le Marigny,
Peu de la Moriette, and Coteau de la Biche. Each generation has enriched
this ancestral know-how, making Domaine Pichot a leading French
winemaker. The estate, rich in history and tradition, has expanded and
modernized over the years, incorporating sustainable technologies and
practices while preserving our unique terroir. Today, they proudly share
wines born from centuries of passion and expertise.
While
Pichot's great sweet wines are renowned, the other Chenins, dry,
semi-dry, and sparkling, are equally worthy. The estate offers a
coherent, precise range, which can still develop a mineral expression
while cultivating their digestible essence. Our tour was conducted by
the 12th generation of the family Lewis Pichot.
The cellar built into the walls of the hillside and of course extending into limestone caves.
We popped the first bubbly at 10:00am and proceeded down the line from there.
Our second winery of the morning. Situated in the heart of Vouvray, Domaine Vincent & Tania Carême is the mastermind of the young and dynamic Carême, couple. Vincent from France and Tania from South Africa. The estate currently spans 37 acres with different blocks spread over three villages: Vouvray, Vernou - sur-Brenne and Noizay. Most of the blocks are on steep slopes overlooking the Loire valley with two of them, Le Clos (meaning an enclosed vineyard) and Le Peu Morier, being vinified separately to express their unique terroirs. All of Domaine Carême's wines are certified organic from 2010 onwards by Ecocert.
This is one of the top domains in Vouvray. The vineyards have the classic Vouvray terroir: limestone bedrock and superficial flint (Silex in French), and some limestone mixed with fine clay.
Watch the video (not posted) and hear the fermentation.
Our lunch menu. Pick one ENT, one PLAT, and enjoy the dessert.
# 1 ENT
#1 Plat
Dessert
The right wing originally didn’t exist. Later it was a bridge and later still it was covered and made part of the chateau.
The gang.
Ditto.
Ditto
Ditto
A view from the balcony.
The 19th century kitchen.
Butcher table and tools.
Dinner in Amboise.
Tuesday, October 14, 2025
After harvest, winter sheep and geese mow between the vines.
Susan turns out to be a goose whisperer. They followed her everywhere. If you remember in Japan she was the pigeon whisperer. Is it all birds?
I asked to drive one, but they rightly didn’t trust me.
Next door to the winery property.
Who knew that Ferrari made an SUV. We looked up the price and it starts at over $400,000
Fall in France.
The village of Sancerre.
Lunch.
Starter, snails.
Main—sausages with…
mashed potatoes.
Dessert via Google Translate
The vineyards are planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Gamay. They produce whites in the Sancerre and Côteaux du Giennois appellations and a single varietal Pinot Noir and a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. The domaine is certified organic and also uses biodynamic practices. The little known Côteaux du Giennois appellation is a very good choice when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc wines: a very good and less pricey alternative to Sancerre.
Lots of tanks and barrels. The man in the sweat shirt was the owner, along with his brother.
The view from our hotel room in Sancerre
A WWI memorial.
Downtown.
Wednesday, October 15, 2025
Last group pic. A great group to travel with. Also in the photo is Alphonse Mellet a great winemaker.
The Domaine Alphonse Mellot was founded in 1513. Alphonse Mellot sen.is the 18th generation of the vintner family in Sancerre. He took over the domaine La Moussière in 1970 and was the driving force in the transformation of the family winery towards the focus on top quality. With conversion to biodynamic viticulture he went much further than other domains in the region at that time. The domaine is certified biodynamic since 1999. Today the 16'h generation -Alphonse Mellot jun.- runs the domain. The winery sits in the middle of the town of Sancerre and occupies a maze of medieval cellars right under the town center, some date trom the 15th century. The vineyard area is about 140 acres with a single plot of 75 acres of "La Moussière", considered the best in Sancerte, solely owned by Mellot. "La Moussière" sits on a large block of Kimmeridgian soil whereas "La Demoiselle sits on silex soils. There are also 33 acres of Pinot Noir and more vineyards (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) on the IGP Côtes de la Charité. Domaine Alphonse Mellot is an iconic producer in Sancerre and that was recognized by the King of France, Louis XIV. long before our times. He named César Mellot as his personal wine advisor in 1698.
A big ass crusher
Love the sound of bottling. Two videos to get the full effect. (No videos)
Wonder how they make these barrels.
My favorite from winery #1 today.
Just an interesting building in Sancerre.
Winery # 2. Domaine Delaporte in Chavignol.
The domaine is located in the heart of the Sancerre region, in the small hamlet of Chavignol Domaine Delaporte is a family winery which has been passed from father to son since the 17th century. Today, it is Matthieu Delaporte, who manages the estate. He has undertaken major measures to improve the wine quality: tillage without herbicides, reduced yields and vinification in barrels. From 2020, the estate has embarked on the conversion process to organic farming. With fifty different plots, the terroir of the domain is diverse, from silex to the limestone and kimmeridgian loam soils. The white Sancerre Chavignol from Domaine Delaporte is a Sauvignon Blanc whose vines are 35 years old and grow on south facing slopes ensuring ripe, mature grapes. The most prominent vineyard site in Chavignol is the "Côté des Monts Damnés (The Damned Mountain)" a plot with quite steep and rugged slopes.
Our tasting lineup.
Lunch spot.
Lunch. I’m not counting this as a group shot, but how about a country lunch shot.
Winery #3. They had no signs, so I’ll use a bottle to introduce the winery and narrative from their web site. A family estate now run by Lucia Mineur-Billet, a passionate young winemaker. A transmission, with a vineyard as its treasure in the heart of Pouilly-Fumé appellation. A new page in the story of Régis Minet estate opened in the 21st century.
Our family estate, is handed down from generation to generation, from Pierre Minet in 1627, to Lucia in 2021, first woman on the estate. When passion becomes a singular human story.
The year the Pouilly-Fumé appellation was created in 1937, Robert Minet succeeded his father Eugène, who succeeded his father Pierre, Pierre to Nicolas etc. and so it had been since the 17th century. With the help of his wife Henriette, he cultivated 3 hectares of Sauvignon and Chasselas, owned A horse and 3 cows. He was also a cooper and made his own barrels.
Régis was only 17 when he took over the estate following Robert’s illness. In 1978, on his father’s death, he inherited 3 hectares of vines. Over the years, he expanded the estate, built a new winery, and developed export sales. In 2021, after 43 solo harvests, Régis handed over the estate to Lucia, daughter of his wife Nathalie.
After working in Bordeaux and New York for Château Smith Haut Laffite, then for wines and spirits distributor CGM, she decided to be at the heart of creation. In 2021, she went back to school, and obtained a diploma in viticulture. She took over the Régis estate, where she grew up, and has since added her own signature touch, while building on the work of previous generations. Her unfailing support: her husband Romain.
And then behind the scenes, Nathalie Lucia’s mother. She greatly contributed to her return to the domain. The range of its missions is wide: administrative, communication, commercial relay, greeting of customers at the cellar. Its strengths: being a domain’s living memory, ask her in French or English, she’ll answer all your questions!
Vieilles Vignes is the historical cuvee of the domain, and a signature cuvee of the Pouilly Fumé. Freshness, tension and minerality characterize this blend from our oldest plots (on average 35 years old), and favorite terroirs of Sauvignon Blanc.
A wine gourmet, elegant with a beautiful freshness, dedicated to the hedonists, Désert comes from the terroir “Désert des Fouinelles”, according to the elders, nothing took roots except… vines! This soil, full of little oyster fossils, was formerly covered by the see, 150 million years ago (Jurassic era), brings minerality and vivacity to the Sauvignon Blanc. From the sea to the desert, from the aridity to a fruit explosion, that’s the magic of Pouilly-Fumé… for a unique cuvee !
Miracle. Our special vintage honors every year the plot that reflects in our eyes the uniqueness of the new vintage. Miracle, from the lands of the northern Bascoins is our vision of 2023.
The wines presented by Nathalie.
Susan enjoyed the tank tasting
A different tank tasting.
Dinner, translated by Google.
Starter, mushroom soup with poached egg.
Fromage
Dessert.
7 wines for 9 of us.
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