Bordeaux City
The city of Bordeaux is a jewel, with vestiges from the Roman era and medieval town gates. However, the 18th century was its golden age. Victor Hugo once said: “Take Versailles, add Antwerp, and you have Bordeaux.”
Bordeaux is often referred to as "Little Paris". Baron Haussmann, a long-time prefect of Bordeaux, used Bordeaux’s 18th century, big-scale rebuilding as a model when he was asked by Emperor Napoleon III to transform a then still quasimedieval Paris into a “modern” capital that would make France proud.
The city was ruled by the English for a long time, which is why Bordeaux seems to have an "English flair". After the marriage of Henry II to Eleanor of Aquitaine, Bordeaux came under English rule between 1152 and 1453. It was then that the British first developed their taste for Claret, as the red Bordeaux wine is called in the UK.
The city has recently been classified by UNESCO as an “outstanding urban and architectural ensemble”.Bordeaux has a million inhabitants, including a lively university community of over 60,000.
Bordeaux is a flat city, built on the left banks of the Garonne. The Garonne merges a dozen kilometers below the city with the Dordogne to form the Gironde, which is biggest estuary in France. The two main entertainment spots are: (1) Formerly inhabited by wine merchant warehouses, the docks (les quais) are now home to gardens, bike and skate paths, boutiques, museums, cafés, bars and restaurants. (2) La Victoire is the other area for entertainment: Historical monuments meet student life and bars. Most of the pubs and bars of the town are here. Virtually, all the shops in the surroundings of this area are bars.
See:
In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City
L' Embarcadere
3 Rue de Pas Saint Georges
The decor is reminiscent of a pub or brasserie, with wood paneling and rich velvet seating, but the cuisine is seafood all the way. The menu is vast and can suit any seafood tastes and budgets. Known in town as a restaurant serving high-quality dishes at reasonable prices.
Le Petit Commerce
Restaurant et Pecherie
Chai du Petit Commerce
18, 19- 22 Rue Parlement Saint-Pierre
Jim Drohman: The Petit Commerce, a bistro specializing in seafood, reminds me of two points regarding the city of Bordeaux that are not necessarily the first that come to mind when I think of this capital of wine.
First, Bordeaux is a port city and as such, has a rich culinary tradition surrounding fish and shellfish. Although officially located on the river Garonne, it is very near the river’s mouth and therefore close the rich fishing of the bay of Biscay. Bordeaux is also in the center of one of the most renowned oyster producing regions in France, very close to the famous oyster beds at Arcachon and around Oleron.
Second, Bordeaux is close enough to both Spain and the Basque countries that its cooking reflects some of these regions culinary traditions. In this case, I am thinking of cooking on a “plancha” or flat topped grill. Its a very simple, rustic way of cooking that adds a rich, caramelized, note to any ingredient. And one finds it often in Bordeaux.
The daily choices, which usually number 15-20 fish and an equal number of crustaceans, are listed on a chalk board.
The same owner has recently opened a shellfish bar directly across the street and diners at either restaurant can request dishes from the other…so you can start your meal with local oysters on the half shell or a plateau de fruites de mer that might include raw oysters, clams, mussels, crab, shrimp and sea snails.
Service can be brusk but I don’t take it personally…Le Petit Commerce seems always full and perpetually understaffed, although the staff that is there is working at full speed.
Recommended by Ray and Gisela Leon.
Fernand
7 Quai de la Douane
If you like your dining experiences to offer a feast for the eyes in addition to a feast for the stomach, this restaurant should be on your agenda. The antique-clad decor provides an authentic bistro atmosphere. The seafood platters and oysters are well known, but beef dishes are superb as well.
Chez Jean-Mi - Bistro à Huitres
Halle des Capucins
Go to the morning market at les Capucins around 11 am and stay for a little snack and glass of chilled white Bordeaux wine. There are just a few specialties, but all outstanding: the freshest of oysters, good bread, wine, and soupe des poissons with the traditional rouille and grated cheese.
From 7:00 am to 1:30 pm.
La Belle Epoque
109 Rue Pelleport
Not a specific seafood restaurant, but a typical French brasserie: waiters in long white aprons, art deco rooms and brasserie food , including seafood, as it should be served and eaten. The 2014 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy will have dinner there.
Pinasse Café
2 bis ave Océan Cap Ferret,33950 Lège-Cap-Ferret
Not on Bordeaux City, but in Cap Ferret, about 45 miles from Bordeaux City.
Bottin Gourmand: Authentique et chaleureux, le Pinasse Café jouit d'une situation privilégiée. Les pieds dans l'eau du bassin d’Arcachon, vous pouvez déguster des moules aux aiguilles de pin, une blanquette de seiche, ou encore d'incroyables homards rôtis sauce sauternes, le tout préparé par le chef Emmanuel Goncalves. Généreux plateaux de fruits de mer. Vue imprenable sur la dune du Pilat. C'est assez magique.
The 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy stopped there - and the 2014 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy will stopp there - for lunch on a Sunday. Great, food and relaxed ambiance, with a gorgeous view over the bay, the oyster farms and the village of Arcachon and the Dunes de Pilat, the largest in Europe, in the distance. I like the Plateau des Fruits de Mer.
See also:
Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca , France
Schiller’s Favorites
This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series.
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France (2012)
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California
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Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
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