I reviewed:
DIETER BRAATZ, ULRICH SAUTTER and INGO SWOBODA: Wine Atlas of Germany. Translated by Kevin Goldberg, University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, California; University of California Press, London, England, 2014, 277 pp., ISBN: 978-0-520-26067-2, $60.
My review was published in Vol 10, No 1, 2015 of the Journal of Wine Economics (Cambridge University Press), pages 121-123.
I am re-issuing my book review here on schiller-wine and adding a few pictures from the review and the book.
This was my second review in the Journal of Wine Economics. See also: Christian G.E. Schiller's Review of the Book: Ralf Frenzel (ed.) - Riesling, Robert Weil. Tre Torri, Wiesbaden, Germany, 2013, in: Journal of Wine Economics, Volume 9, 2014, No. 1, Cambridge University Press
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DIETER BRAATZ, ULRICH SAUTTER and INGO SWOBODA: Wine Atlas of Germany. Translated by Kevin Goldberg, University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, California; University of California Press, London, England, 2014, 277 pp., ISBN: 978-0-520-26067-2, $60.
The Wine Atlas of Germany, published by University of California Press in August 2014, is a wonderful coffee-table style book that takes a thorough look at the wine geography of Germany. It contains excellent wine maps and a wealth of useful information about German wine. However, the atlas has its limitations and this is due to the fact that (1) the way German wine makers classify their wines is in transition and (2) the Wine Atlas of Germany is a translation of the Weinatlas Deutschland, which was published in Germany in 2007; with the cut-off date for the German version almost 10 years back, the Wine Atlas of Germany was already outdated in a number of important aspects when it was published. This is the only, but a major, weakness of the book.
The authors are Dieter Braatz (deputy Editor-in-Chief of the German gourmet magazine Der Feinschmecker), Ulrich Sautter (wine writer) and Ingo Swoboda (co-author of the book "Riesling"). Jancis Robinson provided a forward. Kevin Goldberg translated the Wine Atlas of Germany and added a translator’s note at the beginning of the book.
The Wine Atlas of Germany is essentially divided into two main parts. First, there is a series of introductory chapters that provide background to the ongoing reform of wine classification in Germany, a discussion of the factors that makes a vineyard unique, an overview of the history of winegrowing in Germany and an introduction to the grape varieties of Germany. Second (and comprising the majority of the book), there is a series of 16 chapters covering all German wine regions, one by one. Each of these chapters includes detailed maps and information on the area’s soils, history and main grape varieties.
Turning to the issue of wine classification in Germany, the basic German wine classification system is that of the German wine law of 1971, which replaced the German wine law of 1930. The German wine law of 1971 created the Prädikatswein system, which links must weights to a hierarchy of predicates. In ascending order of ripeness of the grapes at harvest, these are Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Importantly, although the hierarchy of predicates is not a quality hierarchy, in reality it is seen that way. The terroir as a determining factor for quality clearly moved to the backburner in Germany as a result of the introduction of the Prädikatswein system in 1971.
In terms of vineyard classification, the law of 1971 distinguishes between Einzellage and Grosslage. Einzellage is a single vineyard; Grosslage is a collection of single vineyards. A village typically has say 10 single vineyards and 1 collective vineyard. The wine law of 1971 redrew the vineyard map of Germany considerably, as the law required that single vineyards be at least five hectares in size. As a consequence, the wine law of 1971 resulted in fewer, but larger and more heterogeneous single vineyards than before. In the Wine Atlas of Germany, you find all collective vineyards and all single vineyards of the German wine law of 1971.
The law of 1971 does not contain a ranking of the single vineyards. However, the authors ranked them into 4 levels: (1) Excellent vineyard; (2) Superior vineyard; (3) Good vineyard and (4) Other Vineyards. The vineyard ranking in the Wine Atlas of Germany is the subjective ranking of the authors, based on various information and historical documents that are available, such as Prussian tax documents for the 1800s.
The ranking of the authors, all three accomplished experts of German wine is sound, although I have heard critical voices. For instance, just 7 sites along the entire Mosel are listed as exceptional, 13 if you include the Saar and Ruwer. This compares with 11 exceptional vineyards in the Pfalz, 16 exceptional vineyards in the Rheingau and 21 exceptional vineyards in the Nahe. The large fan community of fruity-sweet Mosel-Saar-Ruwer wines in the world is obviously disappointed by these ratings. But this is due to the fact that the Wine Atlas of Germany is a translation of a German wine atlas - and in Germany, the wines of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer do not enjoy the same cult status as they do outside of Germany.
A few years ago, the VDP – the association of German elite wine makers – revolutionized the German classification system by moving to a terroir-based classification, following the Bourgogne model. With the latest modifications of 2012, at the bottom of the VDP classification are the basic entry-level wines (Gutswein). Above these are the village wines (Ortswein), followed by the single vineyard wines worthy of premier cru (Erste Lage) or even a grand cru (Grosse Lage) status. Note that in 2012, Grosse Lage replaced Erste Lage at the top of the VDP classification. Also, Grosse Lage should not be confused with Grosslage, the term for a large collective site in the law of 1971 (which in my view should be abolished).
Obviously, the Wine Atlas of Germany reflects only the early phase of these fundamental reforms.
Unfortunately, so much has happened in the past years, and this is not reflected in the atlas. Thus, if you have a recent vintage of a VDP producer, the Wine Atlas of Germany is of only limited help for you, if you want to know more about where the wine comes from.
Should one care about the VDP classification? It is the classification of just 200 winemakers, while there are 20.000 or so winemakers that are not members of the VDP. Yes, one should care. It is the elite of Germany (although there are quite a number of top winemakers that are not members of the VDP). When it comes to drinking German wine outside of Germany, the wine market is dominated by VDP producers. And rightly in my view, the Wine Atlas of Germany pays a lot of attention to the VDP classification – but does not capture the changes of the last years.
Finally, looking ahead, Germany is in the process of changing the wine geography further by allowing Gewann names - a sub-plot of a single vineyard - on the label, as a response to the fact that many single vineyards established in the wine law of 1971 are of quite varied quality (i.e. heterogeneous). Many such Gewanne have already been registered and you will see more and more of them on German wine labels. This reform, of course, is not reflected in the Wine Atlas of Germany.
To sum up, the Wine Atlas of Germany does not capture the most recent movements to a Bourgogne-type ranking of vineyards in Germany, but there is much more to the book. Overall, the Wine Atlas of Germany is a beautiful book with great maps and lots of background information. The excellent photographs capture essential details of each region covered. Finally, German wine lovers from outside of Germany will be excited by the coverage of the internationally lesser known regions, such as Baden, Württemberg and Saxony for example.
Christian G.E. Schiller
International Monetary Fund (ret.) and emeritus professor, University of Mainz, Germany
Cschiller@schiller-wine.com
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