Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Chef Martin Weiler Suggests Amazing Food to Go With Gruener Veltliner

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Ewald Gruber jun. and Chef Martin Weiler

Ewald Gruber from Weingut Ewald Gruber invited me and other Wine Bloggers to his Restaurant and Wine Store “Weinquartier” in Retz for lunch with a view of showcasing how well Gruener Veltliner goes with a variety of international food. The lunch was delicious, prepared by Martin Weiler, Chef/Owner of Gasthaus Weiler in Laa an der Thaya.

Chef Martin Weiler from Gasthaus Weiler

Ewald Gruber had brought in Martin Weiler for the event. He is well known for both his regional cuisine as well as for the experimenting going on in the kitchen. I can only say that the 4-course lunch Chef Weiler prepared for us to go with Gruener Veltliner was quite an experience.

Gasthaus Martin Weiler
2136 Laa/Thaya, Staatsbahnstr. 60
Tel: 02522/2379


Austria’s vineyard area is divided into 4 main regions, of which Niederoesterreich (Lower Austria) is the most northern. Within Lower Austria, the Weinviertel is by far the largest district. Situated to the south of the Thaya river, between the Manhartsberg mountain to the west and the Marchauen to the east, the Weinviertel extends southwards right to the gates of Vienna. The fertile region with its rolling hills is one of Central Europe’s oldest agricultural site. The region derives its name from viticulture: Weinviertel means winedistrict.

Gruener Veltliner

The Grüner Veltliner is the characteristic wine of the region. It covers 50 % of the vineyards in the Weinviertel and makes up around one third of the vineyards of Austria. It is a highly versatile variety but is rarely grown in any other wine regions, and as such remains Austria's real point of difference. Cool nights are important for Grüner Veltliner in order to achieve perfect acidity and aromatic expression. The grapes ripen fairly late, and therefore benefit from the warm summer and autumn days that Austria's continental climate offers. Grüner Veltliner is known for its spicy, smoky character with a distinctive white pepper and tobacco bouquet. Fruit character can range from citrusy to rich, peachy flavors, and there is always an excellent dose of balancing acidity.

Weinviertel DAC

Austria’s main wine classification system is based, like the German one, on the amount of sugar in the grapes at harvest, and includes categories like Qualitaetswein, Kabinett and Spaetlese. Recently, there have been efforts to supplement this ripeness-based with a terroir-based classification system. Accordingly, in the Weinviertel, the Weinviertel Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) was introduced. The new system tries to group wines typical for their region together; DAC wines always have a clear taste profile.

In the Weinviertel, a DAC wine is always a Grüner Veltliner, easily recognizable by its lighter yellow to darker greenish-yellow color and its fine peppery, spicy-fruity taste. It has to be dry, with a maximum residual sugar of 6g/l. It must not display woody or botrytis-like notes and its alcoholic strength should be at least 12 % by vol. The basic control for the Weinviertel DAC is identical to that of any quality wine, because the Weinviertel DAC too has to fulfils all the criteria of a Qualitaetswein. Weinviertel DAC bottles can be recognized by their uniform cap bearing a stylized map of the Weinviertel region.

With the 2009 vintage, the DAC Reserve category has been added to the Weinviertel DAC system. As with the Weinviertel DAC wine, the Weinviertel DAC Reserve wine must demonstrate a clear, region-typical taste profile – it must be a peppery Grüner Veltliner from the Weinviertel. But it also must have other distinguishing features: a dense structure; a long finish and a robust style. Subtle Botrytis and wood tones are acceptable in the DAC Reserve. The alcohol content must be at least 13 %.

The Lunch

Here is what we ate and drank - a Spanisch, a French, an Austrian and an Asian course. The Austrian course was Wiener Schnitzel …delicious!

Picture: The Wines


Gebackenes Ei, mit Serranoschinken Oliventapenade & Paprika-Bohnensalat, Ciabatta & Kürbiskernciabatta

Baked egg with Serrano ham, olive pesto, pepper and bean salad

2009er Greener DIEM, Weingut Gerald und Andrea Diem


Dorade Royal Filet mit Safran, Lauch & Erdäpfelpüree

Roasted fillet of gilthead with saffron, leek & mashed potatoes

2009er Weinviertel DAC, Weingut Hagn
2009er Weinviertel DAC Fuchsenberg, Weingut Hebenstreit


Wiener Schnitzel vom Kalb mit Erdäpfel-Vogerlsalat & Preiselbeeren

Viennes Schnitzel of veal with potatoe-lettuce salad & cranberries

2009er Grüner Veltliner Tenn, Weingut Taubenschuss
2008er Radikal,Weingut Zillinger


Ente “aus dem Wok” mit Kürbis, Paprika & Eiernudeln

Asian duck with pumkin, pepper % egg noodles

2008er Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben Weingut Weinrieder
2008er Grüner Veltliner “8000″ Weingut Setzer

Schiller Wine - Related Postings

Picking and Drinking Gruener Veltliner with Ewald Gruber sen. and jun., Weingut Gruber, Weinviertel, Austria

Austria's 17 Best Zweigelt Wines - The 2010 Wein.pur List

Wine ratings: Austria's best red wines - 2010

Wine ratings: Austria - Falstaff Top Red Wines 2009/2010

Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Willi Klinger Leads Tasting of Austria's Undiscovered Stars at EWBC 2010 in Vienna

Guerilla Wine Tasting with Gottfried Lamprecht from Herrenhof in Vienna, Austria

Lunch with Silvia Prieler, Weingut Prieler, Schuetzen am Gebirge, Austria

1 comment:

  1. Christian - I'm totally jealous! Bring Ewald back home to the states if you can! A dorade fish is from the Med and is called a "Sea Bream"? I very much like a gruener veltliner and its nice to see the interesting foods with which it can be paired. Very nice article for the eyes too! Happy Holidays!