German Master Sommelier Hendrik Thoma (and SOPEXA) invited for a tour d’ horizont of the wines of the Beaujolais coupled with a 3 course lunch at the trendy Frankfurt am Main wine restaurant/bistro Weinsinn, while I was in Germany a few weeks ago. This posting focuses on the food side of the event.
I have already posted an article focusing on the excellent wines from the Beaujolais we had during the luncheon:
Hendrik Thoma Presented the Wines of the Beaujolais at Weinsinn in Frankfurt am Main, Germany/France
Weinsinn
Bistronomic food is generally referred to as high-end cuisine served at reasonable prices in a nice bistro-style outlet. A smart mix of economy, variety and seasonality. In Paris, bistronomics include Frenchie, Saturne, Le Chateaubriand, Rino, Yam’Tcha*, La Bigarrade** and Passage 53**. Some of them are even starred. Le Chateaubriand is on the famous San Pellegrino list, but at Le Chateubriand the five-course mystery menu is still at Euro 45. In Frankfurt, André Rickert at Weinsinn and Christoph Kubenz at Schaumahl are showcasing bistronomic food.
Chef André Rickert
André Rickert is an Amador disciple. He underwent his initial apprenticeship at Thomas Bühner when the latter was still cooking in Dortmund.
André Rickert’s cooking - or better plating – is obviously influenced by Amador in that dishes are plated in a precise and transparent manner to let the main product be in focus.
André Rickert is among the best chefs in town. These include Valery Mathis at Erno’s Bistro, Patrick Bittner at Francais, Mario Lohninger at Lohninger, Carmelo Greco at Carmelo Greco, Matthias Schmidt at Villa Merton, Uwe Weber at Emma Metzler and Christoph Kubenz at Schaumahl.
The Restaurant
Entering the Weinsinn you first encounter a small bar with several dishes written up on a chalk board. The food is being served in the adjacent two-folded dining: Bistro-atmosphere, no table cloths.
The restaurant is owned and run by Milica Trajkovska und Matthias Scheiber.
The Lunch
Salat von Sardelle, Ziegenkäse
Tomate und Thunfisch
Perlhuhn
mit Apfel und gebratenem grünen Spargel
Erdbeer
mit Schokolade und Crumbles
Beaujolais
“Beaujolais today is what Rheinhessen was 20 years ago” said Peter Weritz, one of the participants, “a region with a bad reputation as a result of the Beaujolais Nouveau, but with quite a number of innovative and dynamic winemakers who are in the process of propelling the region to the forefront of winemaking”. Billy Wagner, Sommelier of the trendy wine bar Rutz in Berlin said: “Well, the Beaujolais has already gone quite a distance, as there are already a number of young wine makers producing wines of the highest level already today”.
The Wines that Hendrik Poured
Beaujolais Villages Rosé 2011
Domaine Laurent Gauthier, Rose Vintage, 69430 Quincie en Beaujolais, cyrielle@terroirs-originels.com
Beaujolais Blanc 2010
Domaine des Terres Dorées, Beaujolais Blanc, 69380 Charnay, contact@jeanpaulbrun.fr
Brouilly 2010
Pierreux Domaine du Vissoux, Brouilly Pierreux, 69620 Saint Vérand, domaineduvissoux@chermette.fr
Brouilly - The largest Cru in Beaujolais, situated around Mont Brouilly and contains within its boundaries the sub-district of Côte de Brouilly.
Régnié 2009
Henry Fessy, Régnié, 69620 Saint Jean d'Ardières, contact@henryfessy.com
Régnié - The most recently recognized Cru, graduating from a Beaujolais-Villages area to Cru Beaujolais in 1988. One of the more fuller bodied crus in this category.
Saint-Amour 2010
Maison Trenel Fils, Saint-Armour, 71850 Charnay Les Macon, export@trenel.com
Saint-Amour - Local lore suggest that this region was named after a Roman soldier (St. Amateur) who converted to Christianity after escaping death and established a mission near the area.
Chiroubles 2010
Fabien Collonge, L’Aurore des Côtes, 69430 Quincié-en-Beaujolais, cyrielle@terroirs-originels.co
Chiroubles - This cru has vineyards at some of the highest altitudes among the Cru Beaujolais.
Cote de Brouilly 2010
Château Thivin, Clos Bertrand, 69460 Odenas, geoffray@chateau-thivin.com
Côte de Brouilly - Located on the higher slopes of the extinct volcano Mont Brouilly within the Brouilly Cru Beaujolais.
Fleurie 2010
Domaine de la Madone, Grille Midi, 69820 Fleurie, contact@domaine-de-la-madone.com
Fleurie - One of the most widely exported Cru Beaujolais into the United States.
Julienas 2010
Vins Georges Duboeuf, Château des Capitans, 71570 Romanèche Thorins, bgeorges@duboeuf.com
Juliénas - This cru is based around the village named after Julius Caesar.
Morgon 2010
Jean-Marc Burgaud, Côte du Py, 69910 Villié Morgon, jeanmarcburgaud@livertysurf.fr
Morgon - Produces earthy wines that can take on a Burgundian character of silky texture after five years aging.
Moulin à Vent 2010
Sarl Potel / Aviron, Moulin à Vent, 69220 Lancie, potel.aviron@wanadoo.fr
Moulin-à-Vent - Wines are very similar to the nearby Chénas Cru Beaujolais. This region produces some of the longest lasting examples of Beaujolais wine, with some wines lasting up to ten years.
Chenas 2009
Château des Jacques, Chenas, 71570 Romanèche-Thorins, château-des-jacques@wanadoo.fr
Chénas - Once contained many of the vineyards that are now sold under the Moulin-à-Vent designation. It is now the smallest Cru Beaujolais with wines that are noted for their aroma of wild roses
Weinsinn Restaurant / Weinbar
Fürstenbergerstraße 179 (Ecke Leerbachstraße)
60322 Frankfurt am Main
Phone: +49 69 56 99 80 80
Web: http://www.weinsinn-frankfurt.de
Mail: restaurant@weinsinn-frankfurt.de
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