Decanter tasted 88 dry German Rieslings and issued its results in its September issue. The scores: 1 Outstanding, 10 Highly recommended, 64 Recommended, 10 Fair, 3 Poor and 0 Faulty.
I have re-released the reviews of the outstanding and the 10 highly recommend wine(s) below. I have added photos and links to relevant postings on schiller-wine.
Joel Payne, Editor-in-chief of the Deutschland Gault Millau WeinGuide, provided introductory remarks: DRY GERMAN RIESLING is, for some, an oxymoron. And yet most German Rieslings were dry 100 years ago, when they were the most expensive wines in the world. It was only in 1971 that a change in legislation allowed an avalanche of cheap, sweet plonk to flood the market. Quality, style and individuality soon took a back seat. Although a short period of euphoria ensued, the market quickly woke up with a hangover that left lasting damage to Germany’s reputation.
Only in the past 15 years has the VDP, the association of Germany’s leading producers, attempted to resurrect the old traditions with the concept of großes gewächs, which is German for grand cru, for dry wines. The idea is that such wines from the finest sites should be dry, like their ancestors, and embody the pinnacle of German production. Three goals for großes gewächs were outlined and continue to be followed: 1) only the best sites produce vineyard-designated wines, 2) yields are limited and 3) levels for ripeness are set high enough to ensure the production of fine wine.
None of this was legally binding until 1993 when the Rheingau presented its map of classified sites to the state government. Thereafter wines from those vineyards were allowed be labelled as erstes gewächs (first growth). In 2001 several other regions ratified their own classifications and in 2002 the term großes gewächs (grand cru) was chosen to differentiate them from those of the Rheingau, which has legal precedence for the sole use of erstes gewächs. In 2003 the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer settled on erste lage (first site), to designate wines of similar stature. The introduction of a new, four-tier system last year should make things simpler to understand. Große lage (great site), is the German equivalent of grand cru. Given that spätlese and auslese can also be produced in these vineyards, the term großes gewächs denotes a dry wine. Erste lage (first site), corresponds to premier cru. Below that are village wines, and at the base the varietal designates that would be labelled just Riesling, Grauburgunder or Pinot Noir. Although different flavour profiles abound, most regions are finding a true voice. While excellent dry Rieslings can be made on the Mosel, most great examples come from the Nahe, Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Pfalz, with the latter making the lion’s share in terms of volume. While the Rieslings from the Nahe generally show more precision and purity, those from Pfalz impress with their richness, weight and depth.
In 2012, almost all quality-driven estates bottled excellent dry Rieslings that should age well over the next five years. The Rheinhessen and Pfalz (accouting for almost half of Germany’s Riesling plantings) produced not only more volume, but also the majority of the great wines. While none of the finest großes gewächs are cheap, neither are they expensive by global standards. For readers who still think of Germany as cheap and sweet, this may come as a shock, but for the initiated it is clear that it is now time to take advantage of the value for money that these wines still offer. Many are already at twice the price they commanded only five years ago, and it would not be surprising if the cult wines double again in the next decade.
1 Outstanding Wine (95 to 100 pts)
Kloster Eberbach, Hessische Staatsweingüter, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg, Großes Gewächs, Rheingau 95 pts
Decanter: This result is certain to cause controversy in Germany, where Dieter Greiner’s minimal pruning is viewed sceptically. His neighbours, whose vineyards are often as well manicured as a starlet’s fingernails, scratch their heads when they see the unchecked growth in Kloster Eberbach’s finest sites. His critics protest that he is merely trying to save money, perhaps even endangering their adjacent parcels, but he retorts that this is one of the few methods available to counter global warming, higher alcohols due to overripe grapes and, yes, irresponsibly low yields that are often not financially viable. He also cites the better health of the grapes due to the loose clusters this pruning engenders as another distinct advantage.
See also:
A Tour through the Rheingau (Germany) - Visit of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Robert Weil, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg (IRS 2014), Germany
In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany
The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany
10 Highly Recommended Wines (90 to 94 pts)
Kruger-Rumpf, Münsterer Pittersberg, Großes Gewächs, Nahe 17.75 (92)
Decanter: Clean nose of white flowers, fresh almonds and botrytis. A lovely, big wine with a juicy palate of peach, pear and good acidity. For being a bit of an mammoth, it has a silky middle and long finish.
See also:
Fabulous Dinner at schauMahl Restaurant with Winemaker Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Chef Björn Andreas and Sommelier Pit Punda, Germany
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany
Winemaker Dinner with Georg and Stefan Rumpf and with Cornelia Rumpf at Weingut Kruger- Rumpf in the Nahe Valley, Germany
Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA
Battenfeld Spanier, Nieder-Flörsheimer Frauenberg, Rheinhessen 17.5 (91)
Decanter: Chestnut honey and vanilla aromas. Very ripe fruit flavours with a touch of botrytis, good mouthfeel and firm attack. This has a nice balance of fruit and acidy with some yeasty notes.
Excellent.
See also:
Doepfner’s im Maingau Meets Frankfurt/Wein, with Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Chat Sauvage, Frankfurt am Main, Germany
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany
Castell, Casteller Schlossberg, Großes Gewächs, Franken 17.25 (90+)
Decanter: Yellow peach and nectarine aroma with a lovely stone fruit core on the palate and backed by uplifting acidity. There is a touch of sweetness too with a noticeable acidity on the finish.
Georg Mosbacher, Deidesheimer Leinhöhle, Pfalz 17.25 (90+)
Decanter: A fresh, fragrant nose of delicate spice and peach. Lots of fruit concentration on the palate with sharp, green apple acidity. Lovely weight and structure with a long finish.
Juliusspital, Iphöfer Kronsberg, Franken 17.25 (90+)
Decanter: A meaty, almost foie gras nose with touches of honey and white flowers. The palate has great balance and structure; this gives lots of pleasure and has a long finish.
Künstler, Hochheimer Kirchenstück, Großes Gewächs, Rheingau 17.25 (90+)
Decanter: Pineapple and cream aroma. Lots of fruit, good concentration with an almost oily character. Probably some malolactic fermentation here. A long, zesty, spicy finish.
See also:
Weingut Franz Kuenstler, Hochheim, Rheingau, Joins Terry Theise Portfolio, USA/Germany
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany
Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013
Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany
Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84
Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany
Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma
World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany
Von Racknitz, Vom Kieselstein, Nahe 17.25 (90+)
Decanter: Stony minerality on the nose, with classic lines and fruit concentration. Exciting on the palate too – it is as ripe as a Pfalz wine with white flowers and peach. Long finish.
See also:
The (Grape) Wines and the Apple Wine of Weingut von Racknitz, Germany
Decanter: Citrus and spice nose that is clean and pleasant. The palate is lively and big with a bit of sweet cream and a good acid backbone. A very interesting style.
With Karin Freimuth at Weingut Alexander Freimuth in Geisenheim, Germany – a Profile
Dr Wehrheim, Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Köppel, Großes Gewächs, Pfalz 17 (90)
Decanter: Very floral with good mineral qualities and nice spice. White stone fruit palate with good weight and structure; firm but not too acidic – a true classic.
Emrich-Schönleber, Monzinger Halenberg, Großes Gewächs, Nahe 17 (90)
Decanter: Cooking apple and dried herbs on the nose with brioche notes. The palate is concentrated with apple and pear characters and the finish is balanced and powerful.
schiller-wine: Related Postings
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In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany
The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany
Fabulous Dinner at schauMahl Restaurant with Winemaker Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Chef Björn Andreas and Sommelier Pit Punda, Germany
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany
Winemaker Dinner with Georg and Stefan Rumpf and with Cornelia Rumpf at Weingut Kruger- Rumpf in the Nahe Valley, Germany
Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA
Doepfner’s im Maingau Meets Frankfurt/Wein, with Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Chat Sauvage, Frankfurt am Main, Germany
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany
Weingut Franz Kuenstler, Hochheim, Rheingau, Joins Terry Theise Portfolio, USA/Germany
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany
Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany
Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84
Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany
Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma
World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany
The (Grape) Wines and the Apple Wine of Weingut von Racknitz, Germany
With Karin Freimuth at Weingut Alexander Freimuth in Geisenheim, Germany – a Profile
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