Nicolas Rossignol, Owner and Winemaker at Domaine Rossignol in the Bourgogne, was in town (Washington DC) and I had the pleasure to wine and dine with him at la Bergerie in Alexandria, a leading French restaurant in the Washington DC area. The evening was orchestrated by 3 Laurents: Laurent Janowsky, owner of La Bergerie, and Laurent Givry and Laurent Lala, both from Elite Wines, Importer and Distributor of the wines of Domaine Rossignol.
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
Nicolas Rossignol is one of the best examples of a new generation of Burgundy wine makers whose great wines lie in the future rather than the past, entering the fray in 1994. Born in 1974, he represents the 5th generation of vine growers on the soils of Volnay. After completing his technical formation at the enology school in Beaune, Nicolas put his knowledge into practice, staging at Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay, Domaine Louis Latour in Ardeche and Domaine Vieux Telegraphe in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Anxious to learn other farming and winemaking techniques, he went to work in South Africa at Domaine Boschendal Stellenbosch in 1995, followed by Château Cardonne, owned by Château Lafite-Rothchild in Bordeaux.
Upon his return home to his family’s Domaine (Rossignol-Jeanniard) Nicolas began vinifying in 1994. However, it was not long before he started his own Estate. In 1997, he acquired approximately 7.5 acres spread over the communes of Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Aloxe-Corton and Pernand- Vergelesses. In 1998, he increased his vineyard holdings by about 3.5 acres.
Today, Nicolas makes wine from his own 17 acre estate, as well as from his fathers's vineyards.
Pinot File: Nicolas Rossignol is one of the best examples of the new generation of winemakers in Burgundy. The wines go through a long fermentation (4 weeks, during which 1 to 2 weeks of cold pre-fermentation). He uses moderate amounts of new oak. The wines are bottled without fining or filtering.
Christopher Massie on Wine: The wine-making style Nicolas prefers can be best described as “sophisticated” – to borrow a term from Allen Meadows of Burghound, who describes these wines precisely as such. Towards producing wines of classic proportions, offering intense levels of the purist fruit as well as silky tannins and laser-focused transparency, he utilizes whole clusters during fermentation. Nicolas prefers the sweetness this method imparts to the finished wines (ala Jayer), but also stresses that this method must be avoided in vintages where the stems are not ripe.
Bergman’s Bourgogne: Nicolas Rossignol has a firm grip on Volnay and Pommard, the two villages just south of Beaune. There are few cellars in Burgundy where you can taste seven Volnay premier crus and eight Pommard premier crus. In addition to these there is also a handful of village wines from both villages. Instead of blending the small parcels and just label it Volnay premier cru Nicolas Rossignol prefers to bottle everything separately.
But Nicolas Rossignol's wine portfolio is not only about Volnay and Pommard. It is practically all red, but on top of all the Pommards and Volnays there are wines from Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton.
La Bergerie
The Casual Travelist: Tucked into one of Alexandria’s classic brick townhomes, La Bergerie will take your taste buds straight to Lyon. The charming owner Laurent greeted us warmly as we settled in one of the cozy booths. Exposed brick walls, elegant floral arrangements and candlelit tables set the tone for our romantic evening. … Whether you’re celebrating a milestone anniversary or just in the mood for classic French cusine La Bergerie will surely impress with its romantic atmosphere and impeccable service.
Laurent Jonowsky also owns and runs Del Ray Café in Alexandria, Virginia. See:
Bordeaux Winemaker and Owner Marc Pasquet - Château Mondésir-Gazin - at Del Ray Café in Alexandria, Virginia, USA
Importer and Distributor: Elite Wines
In 2002, Laurent Michel Givry, a native of Toulouse, France and a veteran of the wine industry, started Elite Wines with small, eclectic, and yet good valued wines from France and Spain. Right from the beginning, he was very successful with his concept. Today, the portfolio includes a large number of French and Spanish wines as well as Australian, New Zealand, Argentine, Chilean, German and American wines.
OmbiasyPR and WineTours: Looking forward to Going Back to the Bourgogne
My wife Annette Schiller owns and runs ombiasyPR and WineTours, focusing on wine tours to Germany and France. The 2016 program includes a tour to the Bourgogne. See: Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY
Reception
Hors D’Oeuvres
NV Cremant de Bourgogne, Domaine Tripoz
100% Chardonnay, demeter certified
Dinner
First Course
Le Crab Mou aux Anchois et Lardons
Soft Shell Crab with an Anchovy and Bacon Sauce
2013 Domaine Rossignol Savigny les Beaune
The Wine Advocate: The 2013 Savigny-les-Beaune Village is actually a blend of all Nicolas Rossignol’s vineyards, both premier and village cru. It has a focused bouquet with floral black fruits and a touch of seaweed – quite complex and engaging already. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, a brisk line of acidity and a grippy and quite masculine finish. I think blending everything together was a good move.
Second Course
Les Tagliarinis à l’Huile de Truffe Blanche
Home Made Tagliarini Pasta with White Truffle Oil
2013 Domaine Rossignol Beaune 1er cru “Clos du Roy”
Le Figaro – Vin: Le célèbre Premier Cru Clos du Roi se situe à l'extrémité nord du vignoble de Beaune, à la lisière de Savigny-lès-Beaune. Son sol argilo-calcaire et son exposition parfaite, au sud autant qu'à l'est, en font un terroir de prédilection pour le pinot noir.
Nicolas Rossignol vendange à la main dans des petites cagettes de 8 kg pour ne pas abîmer les fruits avant un tri minutieux, une vinification traditionnelle et un élevage en fûts de chêne pouvant aller jusqu'à 20 mois pour bien exprimer la cuvée. Selon les millésimes, la proportion de bois neuf peut aller jusqu'à 50%.
Il en résulte un Premier Cru intense, puissant, riche et taillé pour des gardes supérieures à 10 ans.
Third Course
La Poitrine de Pigeon sur une Purée de Panais, Sauce Star Anise
Roasted Breast of Squab (mr) on a Parsnip Purée with a Star Anise Sauce
2013 Domaine Rossignol Pommard “Les Vignots”
The Wine Advocate: The 2013 Pommard les Vignots, which lies next to Lalou Bize Leroy’s plot, includes 30% whole cluster since it was the only Pommard not damaged by hail. It has a sensual black cherry and cassis-scented bouquet: neat ‘n tidy. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity and a chewy but pure and economical finish. Easy-drinking Pommard, no more, no less.
Fourth Course
La Côtes de Veau de Lait aux Salsifis et Girolles
Milk Fed Veal Chop with Oyster Plant and Fresh Chanterelles
2013 Domaine Rossignol Volnay 1er cru “Clos des Angles“
Vinous - Antonio Galloni: Healthy medium red. Aromas of cherry, pepper and flowers. Soft, approachable red berry flavors are complicated by a saline quality and perked up by a peppery element. The dusty tannins will not stand in the way of drinking this wine young, with some time in a decanter. Rossignol says the 2011 is a better bet today and advises holding this for a year or two. -- Stephen Tanzer
Café Gourmand
Thanks ... and See You in Beaune
Thanks Nicolas Rossignol, Laurent Janowsky, Chef Adrian Gutierrez, Laurent Givry and Laurent Lala for an outstanding evening. Hopefully, we will have a chance to taste the wines of Nicolas Rossignol and see where they come from during the forthcoming ombiasy WineTour by Annette Schiller to the Bourgogne. See:
schiller-wine - Related Postings
Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY
Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)
Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Sophie Schÿler, Owner of Château Kirwan, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, for a Wine Pairing Luncheon at Evo Bistro in McLean, with the Wines of RdV and Clemens Busch, USA/ France/ Germany
Bordeaux Winemaker and Owner Marc Pasquet - Château Mondésir-Gazin - at Del Ray Café in Alexandria, Virginia, USA
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