Wednesday, December 27, 2017

Germany's 18 Top Winemakers - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

Picture: Annette Schiller and Egon Müller in New York City. See: The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released on Monday, November 27, 2017, in Munich, jointly with the Gault Millau Deutschland 2018, which is food guide and rates restaurants and chefs. 3 days earlier, the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released in Mainz.

Interestingly, the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 (24th issue) and the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 (1st issue) share a common history.

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was published by the Zabert + Sandmann Verlag, which had aquired the license for the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland from the Christian Verlag in June 2017, which had published the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017.

A year ago, when the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 was published by the Christian Verlag, Joel B. Payne was the Editor-in-Chief and Carsten S. Henn his Deputy. Joel B. Payne was at the helm of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland since its first issue in 1994 (earlier with Armin Diel).

Picture: Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

Against the background of the transfer of the licence to publish the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland from the Christian Verlag to the Zabert + Sandmann Verlag Joel B. Payne stayed with the Christian Verlag, brought on board the Vinum Journal and managed - along with his Deputy Carsten S. Henn as well as his well established team of taster - to continue publishing a wine guide, under a new name: The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland. I attended the release event of the latter and have reported about it here:

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was put togather by a newly established team of tasters, all of them highly regarded, led by Editor-in-Chief Britta Wiegelmann, who took over from Joel B. Payne. Previously, she was Editor-in-Chief of the Vinum Wine Journal.

As a result of all these changes, there was quite a bit of movement in the ratings between the 2017 and 2108 issues of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. This becomes obvious, inter alia, when you look at the large number of climbers to the 5, 4 1/2 and 4 grapes categories. Notably the group of top winemakers with 5/ 5 grapes grew from 13 to 18 members.

Pictures: Eichelmann Deutschlands Weine 2018, Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2018, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 and the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung with Stuart Pigotts Favorites (Photo: Philipp Wittmann)

This posting is the first one in a series of postings: In addition to this posting, I will also post about the following:

Germany’s 18 Top Winemakers (With 5/5 Stars) - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018
Germany's Best Winemakers and Wines - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards
Promotions in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018
Winemaker of the Year: Horst and Sandra Sauer, Weingut Horst Sauer, Franken - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland is a leading wine guide for German wine. Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland uses a scale of 1 to 5 grapes to rate winemakers and a scale of 1 to 100 points to rate their wines.

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 contains the 1000 best German wine makers, of which 18 received 5/5 grapes.

This is up by 5 grapes compared to last year. Nobody was demoted; 5 wine producers were promoted.

The 5 promotions (all well deserved) were:

Weingut Aldinger – Württemberg
Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan – Pfalz
Weingut Dr. Heger – Baden
Weingut Markus Molitor – Mosel
Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm – Mosel

Ahr

None.

Baden

Bernhard Huber

One of the winemakers leading the German red wine revolution. Bernhard Huber, only 53 years old, died in June 2014, after a battle with cancer. His son, Julian Huber, has taken over. We visited Weingut Huber during the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2014 and again in 2015. 28 hectares.

See:
Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dr. Heger (new)

Weingut Dr. Heger shines with its Pinots (Noir, Gris, Blance) which account for 75% of the production. Joachim and Slivia Heger have been at the helm of this world class producers for about 30 years. 28 hectares. Joachim Heger also produces good wine under the Weinhaus Heger label, with grapes bought from other producers.

Pictures: Tasting and Weingut Dr. Heger and Christian Schiller and Joachim Heger. See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Franken

Rudolf Fürst

Weingut Rudolf Fürst has the reputation of being a specialist for red wines, Spätburgunder and Früburgunder, which account for 60% of the production; but brilliant dry wines are also produced. Sebastian Fürst has taken over from his father Paul Fürst. 20 hectares.

Pictures:Paul Fürst, Annette Schiller, Sebastian Fürst and Christian Schiller at Weingut Rudolf Fürst. See: Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Pictures: Joel B. Payne, Stephan Knipser, Sebastian Fürst and Christian Schiller at the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Award Ceremony. See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

Hessische Bergstrasse

None.

Mittelrhein

None.

Mosel (Mosel - Saar -Ruwer)

Fritz Haag (new)

Weingut Fritz Haag is located in Brauneberg in the Mosel Valley. It was founded in 1605. It is now run and owned by Oliver Haag and his wife Jessica Haag. Weingut Fritz Haag owns a total of 16.5 hectares of Riesling vines around Brauneberg, with 6.5 hectares within Brauneberger Juffer and 3 hectares in the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard.

Pictures: At Weingut Fritz Haag, with Oliver Haag. See: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Egon Müller

The legendary Scharzhof lies on the Saar River. Egon Mueller’s fruity-sweet and noble-sweet, low alcohol wines are legendary. 16 hectares.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, at the Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA, see: The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller and Egon Müller. See: The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

Schloss Lieser (Thomas Haag)

The older brother of Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, grew up at Weingut Fritz Haag, see above. 12 hectares.

Thomas Haag has been the winemaker at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser since 1992 and its owner since 1997. Schloss Lieser – a mighty castle – is the landmark of Lieser, a tiny, quaint Mosel village, built in 1875 by Baron von Schorlemer. Weingut Schloss Lieser was founded in 1904 and produced some of the greatest wines in the Mosel region. In the second half of the 1900s, however, the estate passed through several hands and went into decline.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser with Owner/ Winemaker Thomas Haag – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Picture: Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, and Christian Schiller in Mainz. See: Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Picture: Annette Schiller, Thomas Haag with his Son (Weingut Schloss Lieser) and Stephen Bitterolf at the 2017 Rieslingfeier in NYC. See: The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

Zilliken

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken is one of Germany’s leading producer of fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines. The estate enjoys cult status in some circles, including with some of my wine friends in the Washington DC area. 11 hectares. Only Riesling.

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken is owned and run by Hanno Zilliken and his daughter Dorothee. Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken are Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017). In addition, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken was promoted from 4/5 to 5/5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017. See: Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken are Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017)

Picture: Christian Schiller and Dorothee Zillike at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany. See: Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Pictures: Visiting Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken. See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken with Hanno Zilliken - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Markus Molitor (new)

Within the last 30 years, Markus Molitor has turned Weingut Markus Molitor from one of hundreds of unknown family-owned wineries in the Mosel Region into a cult producer, when Robert Parker gave three of his Riesling Ausleses from the Ürziger Würzgarten, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard sites 100 points in 2015. Riesling represents more than 90 percent of Molitor's 65 hectares of vineyard, but he also makes a little Pinot Noir.

Pictures: Tasting with Markus Molitor at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Joh. Jos. Prüm – Mosel (new)

Weingut JJ Prüm is one of Germany’s leading producer of fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines. The estate enjoys cult status in some circles, including with some of my wine friends in the Washington DC area. 20 hectares. Only Riesling. Led by Dr. Manfred Prüm and his daughter Dr. Katharina Prüm.

Weingut JJ Prüm was demoted to 4 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 (by Joel B. Payne and his team).

Picture: Annette Schiller and Manfred Prüm

Picture: Christian Schiller with Katharina Pruem at Wegmans in Virginia. See also: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Pictures: Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Nahe

Dönnhoff

Helmut Dönnhoff is a Grand Seigneur of German wine. After being at the helm of this prestigious producer, he handed over to his son a few years ago. Weingut Dönnhoff produces only Riesling wines. The dry ones are much appreciated in Germany, while in the US and Asia, Weingut Dönnhoff is better known for its fruity-sweet and noble-sweet Rieslings. 25 hectares.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Helmut Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff

Pictures  Annette Schiller, Helmut Dönnhoff and daughter Christina Dönnhoff (Weingut Dönnhoff) and Didier Cuevlier (Chateau Leoville Poyferre) at Weingut Dr. Robert Weil

Pictures: Dönnhoff Hermann, Oberhausen (Nahe) - An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Schäfer-Fröhlich

Tim Fröhlich took over the virtually unknown estate of his parents in 1998 and shaped it into one of the top Nahe estates in a very short period of time.Tim is a “master” of indigenous yeast fermentation.  His dry wines are much appreciated in Germany, while in the US and Asia, Weingut Dönnhoff is better known for its fruity-sweet and noble-sweet Rieslings. 20 hectares. 85% Riesling.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Tim Fröhlich in Wiesbaden

Pictures: Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenau (Nahe) - At Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Pfalz

Knipser

A world class producer of both white and red wines. Werner Knipser has been experimenting with international red grape varieties for some years. Virtually all wines are fermented in a dry style. Werner Knipser’s children Sabine Knipser and Stephan Knipser are in the process of taking over. 40 hectares.

Picture: Stephan Knipser, Sebastion Fürst, Weingut Fürst and Christian Schiller in Mainz. See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Ökonomierat Rebholz

A broad wine portfolio with Riesling and Pinots (Blanc, Noir and Gris) as well as Chardonnay. All dry. A mover and shaker in the "Grosses Gewächs" movement. 19 hectares.

The visit of Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz was one of the highlights of the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014, 2015, 2017). We will be back.

See:
Wine Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)
Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: The Table of Hannsjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz, at the Gala Dinner of the Rieslingfeier 2016 in New York City, with Annette Schiller, David Schildknecht and Hannsjörg Rebholz. See: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg Rebholz. See: Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan (new)

Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan Ewas established in the 1700s by Andreas Jordan, who had immigrated to the Pfalz from the Savoy region. When he died in 1848, his bequest was split three ways – an event known as the Jordansche Teilung (Teilung means “division” or “sharing” in German) – giving rise to Deidesheim’s three biggest wineries, which thenceforth developed independently of each other and still exist today. Today, they bear the names Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl and von Winningen/ Dr. Deinhard. They are now all owned by the wife of the late Achim Niederberger.

The estate produces a broad range of dry wines, with 85% stemming from Riesling grapes. The 2016 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling GG was rated at 100/ 100 points in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018.

Pictures: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in Deidesheim with General Manager Gunther Hauck – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Rheingau

Peter Jakob Kühn

One of the leaders of biodynamic winemaking in Germany. Last year's Gault Millau Deutschland Wunemaker of the Year. 20 hectares. 90% Riesling and 10% Pinot Noir. Peter Jakob's son Peter Bernhard Kühn is in the process of taking over.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Peter Jakob Kühn in Kiedrich, Rheingau, see: Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

Picture: Annette Schiller with Peter Jakob Kühn in Berlin

Pictures: Kühn Peter Jakob, Oestrich (Rheingau) - One of the Bio-dynamic Stars in Germany: Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Robert Weil

A top producer of Riesling wines, both dry and fruity sweet and noble sweet wines, well presented in the major wine markets in the world. Now co-owned by the Japanese Suntory company and General Manager Wilhelm Weil, the fourth generation of the founding family. 90 hectares. Only Riesling.

Pictures: Christian and Annette Schiller with Wilhelm Weil at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich

Pictures: Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014). 

Rheinhessen

Keller

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Has a broad wine portfolio with 60 % accounted for by Riesling and also including the lesser known autochthon Silvaner as well as Spaetburgunder. 15 hectares.

Picture: Annette Schiller, Julia and Klaus Peter Keller at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York, see: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Saale-Unstrut

None.

Sachsen

None.

Württemberg

Weingut Aldinger (new) 

The roots of this Fellbach (near Stuttgart) estate stretch back to the 15th century. Gert Aldinger assumed the helm in 1992, with all the responsibility that comes with 500 years of winegrowing tradition. 15 years later, the estate was already counted among Württemberg's finest, with sons Hansjörg and Matthias beginning their chapter at the forefront.

30 hectares. 33% Riesling, 15% Lemberger, 15% Spätburgunder, 10% Sauvignon blanc, 8% Trollinger, 6% Merlot, 5% Weissburgunder, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Chardonnay.

Pictures: Gert Aldinger, Weingut Aldinger, Karl Eugen Erbgraf zu Neipperg, Weingut Des Grafen Neipperg and Annette Schiller See: 2017 VDP Trade Fair Weinbörse - Vintage 2016 - in Mainz: Schiller’s Report

Pictures: Hansjörg and Matthias Aldinger with Christian Schiller. See: See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Previous Years

As for previous years, see:

Germany's 13 Top Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017
Germany's Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016
Germany's Top 11 Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015
Germany's Top 11 Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2014
Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013
Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012
Germany’s Top 9 Winemakers - the 2010 Gault Millau Wine Guide

schiller-wine: Related Postings

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany 

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser with Owner/ Winemaker Thomas Haag – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken are Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017)

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken with Hanno Zilliken - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Wine Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

One of the Bio-dynamic Stars in Germany: Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Tasting with Markus Molitor at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in Deidesheim with General Manager Gunther Hauck – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

2017 VDP Trade Fair Weinbörse - Vintage 2016 - in Mainz: Schiller’s Report