Tuesday, February 19, 2019

The Steep-Slope Wines from the Mittelrhein: Tasting at Collegium Vini with 4 Producers - Wine Estates Matthias Müller, Toni Jost, Philipps-Mühle and Heilig Grab, Germany

Picture:  The Steep-Slope Wines from the Mittelrhein: Tasting at Collegium Vini with 4 Producers - Wine Estates Matthias Müller, Toni Jost, Philipps-Mühle and Heilig Grab

The Collegium Vini is an association of wine lovers in the greater Frankfurt area, founded in 1951, that meets regularly to taste wine together. This time, the Collegium Vini had invited 4 wine estates from the Mittelrhein to talk about steep slope wines, wines from vineyards with an inclination of more than say 50 degrees.

Two of the wine estates - Weingut Toni Jost from Bacharach (Cecilia Jost) and Weingut Matthias Müller (Johannes Müller) - were members of the VDP, the association of Germany's about 200 elite winemakers, and two wine estates - Weingut Philipps-Mühle in St. Goar (Thomas and Martin Philipps) and Weingut Heilig Grab from Boppard (Jonas Schoenberger) - were up-and-coming producers.

Picture: Prof. Dr. Ulrich Steeger

The evening, during which we tasted 20 wines, had 5 blocks.

(1) The evening started with Johannes Müller providing a general introduction to the Mittelrhein
(2) Thomas and Martin Philips reported about their recultivation efforts of a steep-slope wineyard.
(3) Cecilia Jost talked about the impliations of the height and the orientation of a vineyard.
(4) Jonas Schoeneberg introduced us to new machines that facilitate the work in steep-slope vineyards.
(5) In the middle of the evening we had a nice meal with 2 dinner wines. At the end, a fruity-sweet Spätlese was poured pour la route.

Mittelrhein

Beginning just below Bonn and extending about 100 km south along the banks of the Rhine, the Mittelrhein is a beautiful region of steep, terraced vineyards and some of the wine world's most splendid scenery, medieval castles and ruins clinging to rocky peaks, sites of ancient legends where Siegfried, Hagen and the Loreley seem to spring to life.

Nearly three quarters of the vineyards are planted with Riesling. Viticulture was established in the region by the Romans, once they had established the cities of Cologne (Colonia) and Bonn (Bonna). The region saw its heyday in medieval times, at a time when the Cistercian order built the Kloster Heisterbach abbey above Oberdollendorf. The small town of Bacharach is an ancient centre of the wine trade. The name of the town of Bacharach comes from the Roman "Baccara" = "Altar of Bacchus".

Picture: Kaub with the Castles Pfalzgrafenstein and Gutenfels. See: In the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

The Mittlerhein below St. Goarshausen is one of the few vineyards in the world where phylloxera has not yet struck. Small, family-run wineries are typical of the region. But winemaking in the Mittelrhein is shrinking at a rapid pace. Today, with 500 hectares vineyard area, it is less than 25% of what it was 100 years ago. The slopes are extremely steep, discouraging young winemakers to continue with the tradition of their fathers, while consumers are flooded with reasonably priced and good quality wines from all over the world. However, increasingly young and dynamic winemakers, such as those who joined us for the tasting, are successfully trying to reverse this trend.

Johannes Müller, Weingut Matthias Müller, Spay, Mittelrhein

Johannes Müller providing a general introduction to the Mittelrhein, the second smallest wine region in Germany. The village of Deidesheim, for example, is larger than the whole Mittelrhein area.

Pictures: Johannes Müller Presenting

The Wines Johannes Müller, Weingut Matthias Müller, Spay, Mittelrhein Poured

Johannes Müller poured 4 wines.

Pictures: Johannes Müller's Wines

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Johannes and Matthias Müller - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Johannes and Matthias Müller, Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein. See: Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Johannes and Matthias Müller - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Thomas and Martin Philipps, Weingut Philipps-Mühle, St. Goar, Mittelrhein

Thomas and Martin Philips provided a report about their recultivation efforts of a steep-slope wineyard.

Pictures: Thomas and Martin Philipps

The Wines Thomas and Martin Philipps, Weingut Philipps-Mühle, St. Goar, Mittelrhein, Poured

Thomas and Martin Philipps poured 4 wines.

Pictures: Thomas and Martin Philipps' Wines

Cecilia Jost, Weingut Toni Jost, Bacharach, Mittelrhein

Cecilia Jost dwelled on the impliations of the height and the orientation of a vineyard.

Pictures: Cecilia Jost Presenting

The Wines Cecilia Jost, Weingut Toni Jost, Bacharach, Mittelrhein, Poured

Cecilia Jost poured 4 wines.

Pictures: The Wines Cecilia Jost Presented

Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Cecilia Jost – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours, Germany

Picture: Peter and Cecilia Jost, Weingut Toni Jost, Bacharach, Mittelrhein. See: Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Cecilia Jost – Germany-North Tour 2015 by ombiasy WineTours, Germany

Johannes Schoeneberger, Weingut Heilig Grab, Boppard, Mittelrhein

Jonas Schoeneberger introduced us to new mahines that facilitate the work in steep-slope vineyards.

Pictures: Jonas Schoeneberger's Presentation

The Wines Johannes Schoeneberger, Weingut Heilig Grab, Boppard, Mittelrhein, Poured

Johannes Schoeneberger poured 5 wines.

Pictures: Johannes Schoeneberger's Wines

Dinner

In the middle of the evening we had a nice meal with 2 dinner wines.

Pictures: Dinner

Bye-bye

At the end, a fruity-sweet Spätlese was poured "for the road".

Picture: Pour la Route

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