Wednesday, February 28, 2024

Dinner at L' Alchemiste in Saumur at Michelin-star Level with Chef François Deplagne (February 2024)







Our day ended in Saumur where we will spend 2 nights with the Loire Valley Tour 2024 by ombiasy WineTours in June 2024.

We stayed at the Mercure Saumur, where the group will stay. The hotel is on an island in the Loire river with a breathtaking view of Saumur and its castle.
 
We had dinner at a Michelin-listed restaurant, the Restaurant L'Alchimiste which in my view was at the 1 Michelin star level. The oyster sorbet was amazing. We will be back in June with the group.

Saumur in the Loire Valley

tripsavy.com (Mary Anne Evans)

Saumur lies on a beautiful stretch of the western Loire valley between Tours and Angers before the mighty river flows into the Atlantic at Nantes. It’s a glorious area known for its odd troglodyte dwellings built in the limestone cliffs by our oh-so-distant ancestors.

Saumur is famous above all for two things: its excellent sparkling wine (you can visit many of the producers), and its military associations. Here you’ll find the Armoured Corps Academy and the French Cavalry Academy, housed in two-story gracious 18th-century buildings around a dusty square that is now a car park.

Start by strolling through the medieval streets that run from the river to the Eglise St-Pierre. Set in a delightful square the Gothic church is surrounded by wood-framed buildings that now house cafes and restaurants.

The château of Saumur stands above the city. Its fairytale white towers, delicate stone tracery, and mullion windows were depicted in Les Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, the 11th century illuminated manuscript that is reproduced everywhere. It is a book of hours, a collection of prayers for the canonical hours, created between 1412 and 1416 by the Limbourg brothers for John Duke of Berry.

Today the château is best viewed from the outside. Built in the second half of the 14th century by Louis I, Duc d’Anjou it was once a magnificent structure. Today much is closed for restoration though there is a museum of decorative and fine arts which you can visit....

...Walking around Saumur you’ll soon see its military roots in the open parade grounds surrounded by 19th-century barracks and the huge school for training horses.

The National Riding School (Le Cadre Noir) is just outside the main center of Saumur, a car journey or a taxi ride away. This 300-hectare estate is where the elite come to train under expert Ecuyers (riding instructors).

It was founded in 1815 after the Napoleonic wars had destroyed so much of the French cavalry to train both riders and horses for yet more warfare. Discipline and hard work, practice, and understanding are the mainstays of the school, which is much the same as it was in the days before tanks took over from horses....

...L’Alchimiste is the best restaurant in Saumur, with a small garden for summer dining. It’s central and the chef uses good local ingredients to produce some great specialties. ...
 









Restaurant L'Alchimiste with Chef François Deplagne

We had dinner at a Michelin-listed restaurant, the Restaurant L'Alchimiste which in my view was at the 1 Michelin star level. We will be back in June with the group.
 
It is one of those 2-person operation owned and run by a couple, where he is in the kitchen and she takes care of the services, with the number of couverts limited to 20.
 
Chef François Deplagne only uses ingredients that come from the area: "Une carte épurée, renouvelée continuellement , des produits frais, les plus locaux possible, servis dans un cadre intimiste de vingt couverts à deux pas du centre de Saumur..."
 
wine-pages.com:  I've only been twice but always enjoyed L'alchimiste if we're talking Saumur, Despite the name it's in no way molecular. Just good old fashioned French food, with a little bit of an Asian twist. It's relaxed, welcoming and has a well priced and short (mainly local) wine list.
 
Destination Saumur: In a contemporary setting, François Deplagne will introduce you to inventive and refined traditional cuisine, depending on the seasons.

tripsavy.com (Mary Anne Evans): L’Alchimiste is the best restaurant in Saumur, with a small garden for summer dining. It’s central and the chef uses good local ingredients to produce some great specialties. 




Wine: Domaine Du Petit Bondieu

We started with a glass of Crémant de Loire Brut and then had a bottle of Domaine du Petit Bondieu Rouge.

Domaine du Petit Bondieu: Domaine du Petit Bondieu was founded by Jean-Marc Pichet, father of current owner and winemaker Thomas Pichet, nearly 50 years ago. Located in the heart of the Loire Valley, this award-winning estate extends 25 hectares in the Bourgueil and 4 hectares in Chinon and produces Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc using exclusively organic and biodynamic farming practices. 

The old vines planted on clay-limestone soil at the top of the slopes, give wines of a good density. The tannins are present and at the same time supple and silky. 

After eighteen months aging, six of which in barrels, this Cabernet Franc reveals a nose with aromas of black fruits evolving towards a spicy touch of cloves. Cuvée with good aging potential, which will go wonderfully with red meats and game.

AOP BOURGUEIL red Cuvée Couplets - Magnum 2018: 2 stars in the Guide Hachette 2021, 75cl 2019: 1 star Guide Hachette 2022, 2020: 2 stars Guide Hachette 2023


 
Dinner

Menu L'Experience

We had the Menu L'Experience  (Euro 42)

Amuse bouche 

Le rouleau de printemps qui s'était trompé de saison

Ou

Noix de Saint Jacques en bouillon automnal, écrasé de topinambours et sorbet d'huîtres




Filet de cabillaud en cuisson douce condiment de fenouil et citron confit

Ou

Magret de canard caramélisé, poivre Tchuli et chutney de coingsxxx


Assiette de fromages

Ou

Tarte croustillante aux clémentines, sorbet amande, miel et fleurs d'oranger

Ou

Le moelleux de Lydie au thé matcha, coeur coulant au chocolat


Café
 

LOIRE VALLEY: Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024 
 
Annette Schiller: What comes to your mind when you hear ‘Loire Valley’? Of course images of glorious Châteaux pop up in your mind. Yes that is true and we will visit some iconic château and dig deep into France’s history. However, during this wine tour we also discover a magnificent, but often overlooked French wine region and one of the most exciting best kept secrets of excellent, high quality wines at very reasonable prices. The Loire Valley wine region is a vast area and consists of several distinct wine regions, each with its own characteristic grapes, appellations, and wine style. We take you on a journey from the Atlantic Ocean to the Auvergne mountains to explore this unique region. We learn to appreciate “Sancerre”, "Pouilly-Fumé", “Vouvray", “Chinon”, as well as many other not so familiar appellations.

See: Announcement: Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours (Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024) 









  
   

 
Postings on Schiller-wine Related to the Upcoming 2024 Loire Trip by ombiasy WineTours
 
This is the 8th in a series of postings on Schiller-wine related to the 2024 Loire Valley Trip by ombiasy WineTours in June.
 
A Journey Through The Loire Valley - Seminar at the 2023 American Wine Society National Conference in St. Louis/ Missouri/ USA led by Annette Schiller

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie at Historic Brasserie Cigale in Nantes, Loire Valley, France (February 2024)
 
Announcement: Loire Valley 2024 by ombiasy WineTours (Sunday, June 09 - Thursday June 20, 2024)
 
Salons des Vins - all with a Focus on Natural, Organic, Biodynamic and Low-intervention Producers in the Loire Valley and elsewhere in France and Europe - in February in Angers and Samour, Loire Valley, France (February 2024)
 
 
Announcement: "The Wines of the Loire Valley" presented by Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society/ Northern Virginia Chapter on March 8, 2024
 
Visiting Natural Wine Producer Liv Vincendeau - Domäne Vincendeau in Rochefort sur Loire/ Anjou (February 2024) 
 

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