Monday, June 10, 2013

Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with German Star Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen

I was the featured guest on Wednesday, June 5th from 11 am -12 N CST on #SommChat to talk about German Riesling. #SommChat is a weekly 1 hour twitter chat with a featured guest. Recent guests include:

Winemaker Anne Trimbach @trimbach
Wine Writer Fiona Beckett @winematcher
New York Times Wine Writer Eric Asimov @ericasimov
New York Austrian Sommelier Aldo Sohm @aldosohm
Bonny Doon Owner Randall Grahm @randallgrahm
Sommelier Matt Reiser @mattreiser

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Picture: #SommChat

Twitter Chat 

Here is the twitter chat, starting with the last tweet.
  1. Watched 's new film on last night. Where was the discussion about winemaking style and terroir? :(
  2. “: we will miss you today - see you next week on for sure! Happy# WW
  3. told us last nite they were participating in ! Look fwd 2 hearing abt more restos joining in on the fun
  4. glad is on your radar and look forward to seeing you more!
  5. Sry abt early exit on 2day’s . Twitter glitch made 4 . THX 4 tuning in!
  6. schiller-wine: Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
  7. is on my radar, hope to catch up on the great notes
  8. The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with E. Loosen at MacArthurBeverages
  9. A. Can you recommend any DC area stores to purchase? Phil Bernstein at is top.
  10. On behalf of and I would like to thank all participants in the Have a glass of ' from Germany!
  11. Someone asked about the 2013 vintage. Too soon to tell, but here are some of our harvest notes. (cont)
  12. Super cool! RT : is already at the top of my twitter trends list ...anyone else seeing this? ...trending #1
  13. We can continue on my facebook page "Drinking German Wine in America"
  14. get any last qs for in now on - starting the wrapup soon!
  15. A. International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers world wide association
  16. A. isn't spatburgunder = pinot noir? am I missing something here? Yes But Germans should use Pinot Noir on the label
  17. A in addition to : Washington State: Eroica, Pacific Rim Poet's Leap TY, GTK
  18. Q. U are a member of the FIJEV. Tell us more about this.
  19. A. Daily, global, very broad, but sometimes very personal, with focus on ,
  20. isn't spatburgunder = pinot noir? am I missing something here?
  21. A. as the 2nd lrgst pn producer do u think shld abandon for noir? Answer: Yes!!
  22. Sounds like fun! RT I'm getting schooled in & right now on Join in.
  23. THX KEN! RT : is already at the top of my twitter trends list ...anyone else seeing this? ...trending #1
  24. Q. How does UR blog differ from other blogs out there that U have read?
  25. RT : as the 2nd lrgst pn producer do u think shld abandon for noir?
  26. A. in addition to : Washington State: Eroica, Pacific Rim Poet's Leap
  27. A. climate change will benefit German Riesling in the coming years but less so over the medium and long term

  28. is already at the top of my twitter trends list ...anyone else seeing this? ...trending #1
  29. That may be true, my friend, but I still need to try one -- I have a need to explore ;)
  30. Care to suggest quality domestic regions outside of
  31. A. Yes, there is a red wine boom. 1/3 of German wine production is read, incl top level
  32. think we can all learn best by good consumption :(
  33. and good thing too, this is an area I want to learn more about
  34. A. '13 vintage thus far please? good. But lots of rain recently and some vineyards under water
  35. as the 2nd lrgst pn producer do u think shld abandon for noir?
  36. Any thoughts on what climate change will do to German Riesling in the coming years?
  37. Q. We R hearing more abt Noir in . Tell us UR thoughts on this.
  38. loving all of the Questions - keep them coming on
  39. Q. What is one region that U have not been to that U would like to visit?
  40. A. Lived 10 yrs in Mainz in/close to: Mosel Rheinhessen Rheingau Nahe + like. Drink more dry than fruity-sweet

  41. I'm getting schooled in & right now on Join in.
  42. A. Has anyone had a Spatlese Auslese that was furmented fully dry? All GG are either Spatlese or Auslese
  43. MT : Agreed, but top ones stand out due 2 their focus, precision & vineyard character.
  44. GR8 RT : I'm switching gears from thinking about cocktails to wine, thanks to and .
  45. A. dry - fresh, crisp, minerality; fruity-sweet - good acidity-sweetness balance, noble-rot
  46. I'm switching gears from thinking about cocktails to wine, thanks to and .
  47. MT : A. tend to be higher in alc. and lower remaining sugar. ” 🍷Can't chat but will read later!🍷
  48. RT : @gernanwinesusa Riesling all summer? I think I can deal with that! ;)
  49. A : A good Sylvaner: from Franken region, or Krueger-Rumpf from Nahe
  50. @gernanwinesusa Riesling all summer? I think I can deal with that! ;)
  51. Balance of sweetness and acidity, IMO “: Q. What do you look for most in a good ? ”
  52. RT : i can suggest you a great Italian one fro Alto Adige: ...trust me :-)
  53. Has anyone had a Spatlese or Auslese that was furmented fully dry? I'm still searching...
  54. RT : A. Both dry GG wines and fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines have great aging potential.I...
  55. guess we love all yr long!! @gernanwinesusa RT : begins first day of Summer!
  56. A. Both dry GG wines and fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines have great aging potential.I have 1971 and 1976
  57. MT : Eroica project fr WA is wonderful ex. of new world -love that wine cc
  58. Hey , do you carry either Sylvaner or Grauburgunder from Germany?
  59. gr8 to see you on - have you had your coffee for the day?
  60. RT : A good Sylvaner is fab for summer; any particular brands in the U.S. you can suggest?
  61. : Excellent! Germany's regions to watch for ... “: A: Baden, Franken, Saale-Unstrut ” < thanks
  62. Excellent! Germany's regions to watch for ... “: A: Baden, Franken, Saale-Unstrut ”
  63. The Finger Lakes and Hudson Valley regions of NY both have great Rieslings
  64. A. tend to be higher in alc. and lower remaining sugar, but changing
  65. RT : Christian, can you talk about cellaring Rieslings. Many people don't realize their aging potential.
  66. A good Sylvaner is fab for summer; any particular brands in the U.S. you can suggest?
  67. check it out @schillererwein is on talking about . Has started already?!
  68. RT : Any favorite types (e.g. spatlese)/vintages for cellaring?
  69. For me it's about fruitiness balanced w/bright, soaring acidity that is true foundation of German
  70. @schillererwein Do you also cover from Alsace and what differences between Alsace and Germany regions Mosel or Rhine
  71. thanks for that! I haven't developed a taste for yet & love to find wines to pair with food
  72. What is the most underrated German wine producing region right now?
  73. we love older wines - they age beautifully and are lovely with so many foods
  74. A. First I was economics prof at Uni Mainz (Germany). Then economist at in WashDC (30 years). very diff
  75. Glad to hear -- “: A. Tyler, Yes, there is a red wine boom. 1/3 of German wine production is red, incl top level ”
  76. RT : A. Yes, there is a red wine boom. 1/3 of German wine production is red, incl top level
  77. Christian, can you talk about cellaring Rieslings. Many people don't realize their aging potential.
  78. A. : how does vintage variation affect German Rieslings? less than in other regions such as
  79. Many people start drinking wine w/a fruity, light Riesling; later circle back bcause it's so food friendly
  80. Aside from , what other grape varieties from Germany get you excited ? CC:
  81. Q. Prior to blogging about what were U doing and how was it different than what U do now?
  82. A. Yes, there is a red wine boom. 1/3 of German wine production is read, incl top level
  83. RT : how does vintage variation affect German Rieslings?
  84. exactly what I thought! :) My brother sold wine and loved , and talked about others' misperceptions
  85. Do you see Spätburgunder (Ger. Pinot) making a bigger splash on the international market in the future?
  86. I did some work w/EximBank and IMF, EBRD during 90's, and transitioned into wines/spirits. Naturally :)
  87. Hello Tamara, had great time working w/Ernie+gang @ Lauber Imports/SWS! i'm a huge fan, of wines+man
  88. A. that German is always fruity-sweet Majority of German Reisling is bone dry
  89. RT : what do you think is the largest misconception of German wine?
  90. A. I have always been a wine lover. Wine blogging became new “job” after retirement from in 2009
  91. gr8 2 c u HERE! RT : Hi everyone! Tamara Greenleaf here, representing the Dr. Loosen gang.
  92. Hi everyone! Tamara Greenleaf here, representing the Dr. Loosen gang.
  93. gr8 to see you - look fwd to your questions RT : Cheers from Calgary and
  94. what do you think is the largest misconception of German wine?
  95. Q. What made U want to start writing and blogging about ?
  96. gr8 to see you back RT : a wednesday off and I'm here at
  97. I am happy to be at and talk with you about German
  98. I won't be able to join you at today. Too much work to catch up on. Look forward to reviewing the archives. Have fun!
  99. W/so many participants lots of gr8 Q's R asked! Even if u dont ask 1, S/O 2 & let us know u R here!
  100. RT : Welcome 2 every1! Tell UR friends 2 join us 2 hear blogger Dr. Christian Schiller
  101. As we ask our Qs, you can ask him Ur Qs as well! He'll do his best to answer all Qs in the order they come
  102. Don't forget that EVERY tweet during this chat should include the hashtag in order for everyone to see it!
  103. We're abt ready 2 dive in w/questions, so shout out to Dr. Christian Schiller to say hello & so he knows you're here!
  104. RT : We’d like to introduce you to blogger Dr. Christian Schiller ! -> And lover
  105. We’d like to introduce you to blogger Dr. Christian Schiller !
  106. Welcome 2 every1! Tell UR friends 2 join us 2 hear from blogger Dr. Christian Schiller
  107. yes it is and look fwd to our questions! RT : Jumping in for this week's! Still Wed. mornings?
  108. Jumping in for this week's! Still Wed. mornings?

  109. RT : tomorrow w/ blogger Christian Schiller ! Join us at 11 AM CST! Can’t wait! - Awesome
  110. 4 tweeps RT : Right Bank = right bank for sales, recently RT : Haut-Brion buys L'Arrosée:
  111. we will miss you today but see you next week on - have a great
  112. safe travels RT : unfortunately I'm hoppin a 1055 flight and will miss this week. Will def check archive though
  113. unfortunately I'm hoppin a 1055 flight and will miss this week. Will def check archive though
  114. . Today’s features Hope to see you there! 11 am -12 N CST
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  151. . Today’s features Hope to see you there! 11 am -12 N CST
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  153. Get ready 4 today with blogger Christian Schiller ! Meet him at 11 AM CST!
  154. tomorrow w/ blogger Christian Schiller ! Join us at 11 AM CST!
  155. RT : MT Bubbles Seminar! : Bubbles don't have to break the bank! Charles Curtis MW, at ...
  156. MT Bubbles Seminar! : Bubbles don't have to break the bank! Charles Curtis MW, at ”
  157. RT : tomorrow w/ blogger Christian Schiller ! Join us at 11 AM CST! Can’t wait! - Awesome

  158. tomorrow w/ blogger Christian Schiller ! Join us at 11 AM CST! Can’t wait!
  159. Hear more about Join us w German wineblogger CSchiller ! Wed 11 AM CST at
  160. There is a poetic symetry to a good red burgundy and a cool spring evening. A sense of place that is unrivaled.
  161. RT : Hear more about Join us w/ German wineblogger CSchiller ! Wed 11 AM CST at

  162. Wnat 2 learn abt wine? So R we! Join us w/Christian Schiller 2 learn more! Bring UR Q’s & CU WED 11 AM CST!
  163. Hear more about Join us w/ German wineblogger CSchiller ! Wed 11 AM CST at
  164. Hear more about @SummerofRiesling Join German wineblogger CSchiller Wed 11 AM CST at
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  166. Hear more about @SummerofRiesling? Join us w/ German wineblogger CSchiller ! Wed 11 AM CST
  167. Hear more about ? Join us next week w/ blogger Christian Schiller ! Wed 11 AM CST!

    schiller-wine - Related Postings

    German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

    German Wine Basics: How does a sweet German Riesling become sweet?

    The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

    Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

    When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

    German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

    JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

    1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

    The Wines of the Roter Hang (Red Slope) in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

    One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

    The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Stong Performance

    German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

    The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

    Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013 

    Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany


Friday, June 7, 2013

Burgundy Dinner at Bistro Vivant with Negociant Extraordinaire Jeanne-Marie de Champs, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Negociant in Beaune, Bourgogne at Bistro Vivant, McLean, Virginia 

Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Negociant in Beaune, Bourgogne was in town (Washington DC area) and I had the chance and the pleasure to meet her at a dinner at Bistro Vivant in McLean, Virginia. It was a delightful evening. We enjoyed a delicious five-course menu, prepared by Chef de Cuisine Ed Hardy, paired with five Burgundy releases from Jeanne-Marie de Champs’ Domaines et Saveurs.

Jeanne-Marie de Champs and Domaines et Saveurs

During the past decades Jeanne-Marie de Champs has risen from obscurity to stardom among Burgundy aficionados.  Seeing her name on the back of a bottle guarantees quality.

Before 1978, Jeanne-Marie de Champs had no relation to the wine trade and no particular interest in wine aside from the fact that her family owned a small parcel of vines in Sancerre. She lived in Paris and worked successfully in marketing. Jeanne-Marie de Champs was drawn into wine only as a consequence of marriage to a Bourgogne Negociant in 1978.

Pictures: Jake McGuire, Editor and Publisher of DC Style Report, with Jeanne-Marie de Champs and Aykan Demiroglu, Co-owner of Bistro Vivant

Initially, she established a little business within her husband's company in Beaune and continued to work part-time in Paris. On the strength of Jeanne-Marie's taste for quality and sharp eye for growers on the rise, her little department soon became a major undertaking and in 1994 she established it as an independent company: Domaines et Saveurs, apart from her husband's business. Under French law, she is a "negociant en chambre," meaning that, unlike brokers, she buys wines from her producers and, unlike ordinary negociants, she buys finished wines rather than lots to blend herself. Today, Jeanne-Marie represents more than 70 winemakers, including 3 producers from Bordeaux and a Champagne producer.

Pictures: At the Dinner

Jeanne-Marie: “As a negociant I look for several aspects: First, I look for good farmers – my winemakers have to be good farmers. Second, I look for winemakers who use natural yeast and do not rush the wine. Third, I look for non-fined, not filtered wines.”

Bistro Vivant

It was a lovely evening with great wines and food, all well-orchestrated by Bistro Vivant Co-Owner Aykan Demiroglu and General Manager Shannon Paretzky. Bistro Vivant is Bistro/Brasserie in the heart of McLean in the greater Washington DC area.

Picture: Aykan Demiroglu, Co-owner of Bistro Vivant and Chef de Cuisine Ed Hardy

Previous winemaker dinner at Bistro Vivant:
Dinner with Owner/Winemaker Eric Bonnet of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France/USA

The Vineyard

The event was initiated by The Vineyard Wine Store in McLean. The prices below are The Vineyard prices for single bottles.

Wining and Dining

Picture: 5 Wines

Duck Breast, Frisee Salad
Early Virginia Peaches


Chateau de Raousset Chiroubles 2011 $22.90

Chateau de Raousset is situated in the commune of Chiroubles within the Beaujolais region of Burgundy. The chateau itself is to be found between the villages of Fleurie and Morgon, with a vineyard area of 35 hectares in 3 different appellations - Chiroubles, Fleurie and Morgon.

The Wine Enthusiast: Showing a mineral-driven structure and firm tannins, this is a Beaujolais that needs to age. Rich and juicy, its perfumed red fruits currently cut through dry tannins. 88 Points


Smoked & Grilled Octopus
Romesco Sauce and Pickled Ramps


Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils  Bourgogne Aligoté 2011 $18.99

Aligoté is the second most popular white grape variety in Burgundy after Chardonnay, though it lies a long way behind in terms of planted area, with 1,700 hectares against 12,800 hectares. Typically, Aligoté is planted in the poorer vineyard sites at the tops and bottoms of the slopes. The grape ripens early with moderate yields and produces wines high in acidity that can be drunk young. Traditionally, the cocktail kir is made by adding cassis to an Aligoté white wine.


Based in the village of Pernand Vergelesses, Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils can trace its history back as far as 1765. The Estate comprises 18 hectares of vines in the villages of Pernand-Vergelesses, Savigny les Beaune, Aloxe Corton and Beaune. Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils is now under the control of Vincent Rapet and his wife Sylvette, who manage the estate with a keen eye to nature.

Alaskan Halibut
Spring Morels


Domaine Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Les Encegnieres 2011 $61.99

Marc and Michèle Colin started Domaine Marc Colin in the late 1970s, with vineyards from the Colin and Ponavoy families. Today, Caroline, Joseph and Damien, three of their children, lead the domain which extends over 19 hectares in the villages of Saint-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Santenay.  Their eldest child, Pierre-Yves, was involved until 2005, but has taken out his share of the vineyards to make his own wine.

The reds come from St-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. But Domaine Marc Colin is much better known for its white wines. These include no less than eight bottlings of premier cru St-Aubin plus Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet and their associated grands crus.


Joseph takes the lead in the vineyards. Joseph farms as organically as possible but refuses to be hamstrung by dogmatically following any viticulture or winemaking philosophy. He wants the wine to speak of the vineyards from which they come.  Harvesting is manual. Damien takes the lead in the cellar. He uses only wild yeast. 50% of the production is exported to over twenty countries.

The Lieu Dit “Les Encegnieres” is a Cardonnay vineyard planted on argilo calcaire soil. The wine is aged in French oak for 10 months before slight filtration and bottling. The vineyard is located just below Batard Montrachet on the border with Puligny.

This is a rich wine, elegant with floral notes.

Suckling Pig Roulade
Pommes Duchesses, New Basil Pistou


Domaine René LeClerc Bourgogne Rouge 2009 $32.99

Domaine René LeClerc consists of 12 hectares in and around Gevrey-Chambertin, producing Gevrey-Chambertin Village, Clos Prieur, Lavaux St. Jacques 1er Cru, Champeau 1er Cru, Combeaux Moines 1er Cru, a small amount of Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru and a Bourgogne Rouge, which we tasted. In recent years, René Leclerc has gradually passed on the winemaking and management of the domaine to his son, François. A traditionalist like his father, François also brings personal experience from work in Oregon and his own vision of what his vineyards can achieve. The 15 hectares domaine is known for its old vines – 50-80 years average age – and a lush, fruity style of wine. Only small amounts of new oak are used; a maximum of 20-25% for most wines, and 50% for the Grand Cru, so that the emphasis remains on the expression of terroir through old vines.


Burghound 84-86 Points: A perfumed and very pinot nose displays only traces of warm earth that also characterize the round, supple, forward and already accessible flavors that culminate in an attractively delicious and mildly rustic if not overly complex finish.

Vivant Cheese Plate


Domaine René LeClerc Gevrey Chambertin 2010 $49.99

Charming notes of red raspberries and bing cherries, delicate flavors are supported by fittingly soft, fine-grained tannins.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of Domaine de la Solitude, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Celebrating Paso Robles Wines and Classic American Cuisine - Winemaker Dinner at Jose Andres’ America Eats Tavern in Washington DC with 4 Paso Robles Winemakers, USA

Tour de France de Vin: 6 Days, 7 Regions, 3500 km - In 6 Days through 7 Wine Regions of France

2010 Chateauneuf du Pape - First Wine Blogger Tasting at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Drinking the Wines of Stephane Derenoncourt at Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere in St. Emilion, Bordeaux, and at Boxwood Vineyard in Virginia, USA

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Dinner with Owner/Winemaker Eric Bonnet of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France/USA 

Thursday, June 6, 2013

The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Oyster Guru Jon Rowley in Seattle Tasting Oysters and Oyster Wines, see: West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA

The 10 winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition were announced. The Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition is an annual event, now in its 19th year, orchestrated by Oyster Guru Jon Rowley and sponsored by Tayler Shellfish Farms.

The finals for the popular annual dating service for US West Coast wines and oysters took place April 24 in Los Angeles at the WaterGrill, April 25 at Kuletos in San Francisco and April 26 at Anthony’s Homeport at Shilshole Bay in Seattle. 25 top food and wine experts taste each wine with at least one oyster and selected 10 US West Coast wines for the prestigious “Oyster Awards”.

Jon Rawley explained to me how the contest works when I met him some time ago in Seattle: “We're not judging the wines on their own merits, but on how the wine's flavor goes with oysters. The ideal oyster wine is crisp, clean, and gets out of the way to let the taste of the next oyster to come through. The wines come in batches of five labeled A-T, swaddled in shiny mylar bags to protect their identity. You thoughtfully eat an oyster, chewing carefully, then take a sip of the wine and see how the two jive. Like speed dating, you go with your first impression, take notes on the comment sheet if you like, give the wine a score, and move on. At the end, you rank your top 10 wines and the amalgamated scores from the three cities lead to the winners.”

For previous Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competitions, see:
The 2012 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition - 10 Oyster Wines
The Best Wines for US West Coast and Other Oysters

The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition

Listed alphabetically:

**Cedargreen Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (WA)
**Chateau Ste. Michele 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (WA)
**Dry Creek 2012 Dry Chenin Blanc (CA)
**Geyser Peak 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (CA)
**Kunde 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (CA)
Long Meadow Ranch 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (CA)
*Three Pears 2012 Pinot Grigio (CA)
Trefethen 2012 Dry Riesling (CA)
Vinoce 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (CA)
*Willamette Valley 2011 Pinot Grigio (OR)

*Prior Oyster Award
**Multiple Prior Oyster Awards

4 Types of Oysters

The judges consumed about 1200 Kumamoto oysters. The Kumamoto belongs to the family of Pacific oysters. In fact, it is one of the most famous Pacific oysters. But oysters are found all over the world. I recently had delicious oysters in South Africa and Madagascar, which are typically not on the radar of the mainstream oyster eater.

I distinguish 4 types of oysters:

The Pacific

Originally from Japan, the Pacific or Japanese oyster is the most widely cultured oyster in the world. It accounts for 75% of world production. In France, it has crowded out the Belon and now accounts for 99% of oyster production there. Gone are the days of the Belon in Paris. The Pacific oysters are marketed under a variety of names, often denoting their growing area. The Kumamoto is one of the most famous Pacific oysters. I tend to think of a Pacific oyster as a creamy oyster, with a mineral note.

The Olympia

The Olympia is a very small oyster seldom exceeding 2 inches. For comparison, in Massachusetts, oysters must be a minimum of 3 inches to be sold. Olympia is a native American oyster, which once flourished on the West Coast, before the Pacific took over. Olympias are hard to find today as they grow very slowly and are difficult to transport. They hold very little liquid and dry out quickly. The Olympia has a very full flavor with a distinct aftertaste.

The Atlantic

Another American native, there are many varieties of Atlantic oysters, such as the Malpeque from Prince Edward Island in Canada and the Blue Point from Long Island in New York State. Bluepoints were originally named for Blue Point, Long Island but now the term is generally applied to any Atlantic oyster two four inches long. These two are now the most common restaurant oysters in the US. Also called Eastern oyster, the Atlantic has a thick, elongated shell that ranges from 2 to 5 inches across. It's found along the Atlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico in the US.

The Belon

The Belon, or European Flat, is Europe’s native oyster. The Belons are round and shallow. That’s why they are called Flats. They are also not very liquid and dry out fast. They have a long history. They used to grow in Brittany, Normandy, England, Spain, Holland, Greece and the Black See. But a disease is wiping them out worldwide. The Flats from the Belon river in Brittany were at some point the connoisseur’s top choice and the name was soon adopted by all oyster growers, a bit like the Blue Points from Long Island. The Belon oyster grows in limited quantity in Maine on the rocks of the Damariscotta river bed.

For more on the different kinds of oysters, see:
Oysters and Wine

Wine that Goes with Oysters

Not every wine goes with oysters - a vibrant combination of minerals, sweetness and the sea. In general, first, I always try to go local. Second, the best oyster wines are dry, crisp, clean-finishing white wines, both sparkling and still. I avoid red wines and the sweeter style German Rieslings, although in South Africa I had a Cabernet Sauvignon with my oysters on the half shell, as suggested.

See more:
Oysters and Wine

Jon Rowley

The 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition was orchestrated by Jon Rowley again. Jon is a fascinating and entertaining man. I enjoyed very much an afternoon with him and my wife Annette in the summer of 2011 in Seattle. I felt very honored to spend time with a man who was inducted into the prestigious “Who’s Who of Cooking in America” in 1987.

Before my trip to the US West Coast, I had not heard much about Jon Rowley. But in preparing for the trip, I quickly learned that Jon had a major impact on the flavor and quality of fish, shellfish, fruits and vegetables that are served in the North-West of the US. All his life, he has fought to get better-quality food on the tables of restaurants and households in this part of the world.

Pictures: Jon Rowley, Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, Christian G.E.Schiller and Elliot’s Oyster House Chef Robert Spaulding

"I am fascinated by oysters" Jon said over lunch. “Today's availability of oysters was unimaginable here say 25 years ago. Almost no oysters were served on their own half shells in Seattle. Instead, oysters were eaten in cocktails, shucked and swathed in red sauce laced with so much horseradish that any tang of the sea was largely conjectural”. This has changed completely as I could witness at Elliot’s Oyster House, partly thanks to Jon’s efforts. He has organized restaurant oyster programs and promotions.

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New Hampshire, US: Cheese ... Lobster and Oysters ... and Wine!

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The Best Wines for US West Coast and Other Oysters

West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA

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The 2012 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition - 10 Oyster Wines

Tasting Virginia Chesapeake Bay Oysters with Oyster Producer Travis Craxton at the Rappahannock River, USA

Rappahannock Oyster Bar at Union Station – Virginia Oysters in Washington DC, USA




Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Christoph Tyrell, Karthäuserhof, in Mainz, Germany. The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley is one of the most prestigious wine estates in Germany. It can look back to a long history. For the past decades, it has been run and owned by Christoph Tyrell in the 6. Generation. A couple of months ago, a press release indicated that Christoph Tyrell, who has no children and who is on his mid-60s, has arranged the succession of the Karthaeuserhof with his cousin Albert Behler. Albert Behler lives in New York City, where he is President and CEO of the Paramount Group, one of the largest privately-owned real estate companies in New York City.

For more, see:
The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Der Feinschmecker, the leading German wine and food journal, presented its new ranking of the German wine scene in the Der Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013.

The Feinschmecker Weinguide 2013 includes the 900 top winemakers of Germany; 18 of them are in the top category of 5 F's. The Feinschmecker uses a scale of 1 to 5 Fs.

For previous years see:
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012 
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2011
Germany's 15 Top Winemakers - The Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2010

Promotions

2 winemakers were promoted to 5 F's. Nobody was demoted. The 2 promotions are: Weingut Schaefer-Froehlich in the Nahe Vallley and Weingut Schloss Lieser in the Mosel Valley.

18 Top Winemakers

Here are those winemakers that got in the Feinschmecker Weinguide 2012 the maximum number of 5 F's, grouped by wine region.

Ahr

None

Baden

None

Franken

Rudolf Fuerst

Weingut Rudolf Fuerst has the reputation of being a specialist for red wines, Spaetburgunder and Fruehburgunder, which account for 60% of the production; but brilliant dry wines are also produced. 18.6 hectares.

www.weingut-rudolf-fuerst.de

Picture: Paul Fuerst, Weingut Rudolf Fuerst, at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany. The 2009 Weingut Rudolf Fürst Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs was ranked #4 overall and was #2 of the German wines at the recent Pinot Noir Tasting in London, where German wines performed very strongly: The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Stong Performance

Horst Sauer

Weingut Horst Sauer is well known for his noble-sweet wines, but the Sauers also produces top dry wines, from Silvaner and Riesling. 16.5 hectares.

www.weingut-horst-sauer.de

Picture: Horst Sauer in Berlin

Hessische Bergstrasse

None

Mittelrhein

None

Mosel

Fritz Haag

Weingut Fritz Haag produces a broad range of styles, from dry to lusciously noble sweet wines. Weingut Fritz Haag is owned and run by Oliver Haag. 15.5 hectares.

www.weingut-fritz-haag.de

Kartaeuserhof

A wine estate in the Ruwer valley, with a long tradition and an exciting history, now led by Christoph Tyrell; he has focused on carefully crafted dry wines. 19 hectares. A couple of months ago, a press release indicated that Christoph Tyrell, who has no children and who is on his mid-60s, has arranged the succession of the Karthaeuserhof with his cousin Albert Behler. Albert Behler lives in New York City, where he is President and CEO of the Paramount Group, one of the largest privately-owned real estate companies in New York City.

www.kartaeuserhof.com

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Christoph Tyrell in Mainz, Germany

For more, see:
The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Dr. Loosen

Run and owned by one of the most entrepreneurial German winemakers, Ernst Loosen; in addition to producing outstanding wines in Germany, he makes the famous Eroica in Washington State and has started to produce wine, including Pinot Noir, in Oregon.  22 hectares.

www.drloosen.de

Picture: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, and Ernst Loosen in Washington DC. One of the highlights of the forthcoming wine tour to Germany by Annette Schiller will be a tasting event with Ernst Loosen at Weingut Dr. Loosen. For more on the tour to Germany, see: Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Egon Mueller - Scharzhof

The legendary Scharzhof lies on the Saar river. Egon Mueller’s fruity sweet and noble sweet, low alcohol wines are a legend. 16 hectares.

www.scharzhof.de

Picture: Egon Mueller at the 1. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau in Germany: 1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Joh. Jos. Pruem

For decades now, one of the really exceptional wine makers in Germany. The aging potential of the Weingut J.J. Pruem wines is legendary. 20 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Manfred Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem. I met Manfred's daughter Katharina Pruem in Washington DC recently and wrote about Weingut JJ Pruem: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

www.jj.pruem.com

Sankt Urbans Hof

A rather young wine estate that was established about 50 years ago. It is now owned and run by the founder’s grandson, Nik Weis. Most of the elegant, fine and light wines are exported. 33 hectares.

www.urbanshof.com

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Nik Weis in Berlin: Germany’s VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin - Overview

C.v. Schubert’sche Schlosskellerei

A rather large wine estate in the Ruwer valley, known for its outstanding dry and fruity sweet Rieslings.. 30 hectares.

www.vonSchubert.de

Schloss Lieser

The village Lieser is located next to Bernkastel-Kues. The village’s landmark is the mighty castle “Schloss Lieser”, built in 1875 and inhabited by the Baron of Schorlemer. In 1904 the winery of Schloss Lieser was constructed. Over the years, several changes of ownership led to a decline in quality. In 1992, Thomas Haag, son of Wilhelm Haag, former proprietor of Weingut Fritz Haag,  became the General Manager, bought the estate in 1997 and brought the estate of Schloss Lieser back to the top of the Riesling estates in Germany. 10 hectares.

www.weingut-schloss-lieser.de

Nahe

Herrmann Doennhoff

A leading producer of Riesling wines, including noble-sweet Rieslings.  Owner and winemaker Helmut Doennhoff is a Grand Seigneur of German wine. 25 hectares.

www.doennhoff.com

Picture: Werner Schoenleber and Hellmut Doennhoff in Mainz

Emrich-Schoenleber

Werner Schoenleber has invested a great deal of personal dedication and his promotion to the top rank is definitely warranted. His wines are known to be rich in character and highly esteemed worldwide. 17 hectares.

www.emrich-schoenleber.com

Schaefer-Froehlich

Tim Frohlich took over Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in 1995. He has impressed Gault and Millau with his dry, sweet and noble sweet white wines. 15 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Tim Froehlich, Weingut Schaefer Froehlich, in Mainz

Pfalz

Knipser

A world class producer of both dry white and red wines. Werner Knipser has been experimenting with international red grape varieties for some years. Virtually all wines are fermented in a dry style. 40 hectares.

www.weingut-knipser.de

Rheingau

Kuenstler

Gunter Kuesntler’s wine taps the immense potential of the geological and climatic conditions around Hochheim. ¾ of the vineyard qualify for the Erstes Gewaechs (Grand Cru) classification. 35 hectares.

www.weingut-kuenstler.de

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Gunter Kuenstler at Schloss Johnnisberg. Weingut Kuenstler was founded by my the late Franz Kuenstler. We were both founding members of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim: The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Robert Weil

A top producer of Riesling wines, in particular fruity sweet and noble sweet wines, which is well presented in the major wine markets in the world. By far the largest winery among the Feinschmecker top wine makers and one of the largest wineries in Germany. Owned by the Japanese Suntory company and Wilhelm Weil, the fourth generation of the founding family. 80 hectares.

www.weingut-robert-weil.de

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil. Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany and Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany and German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany 

Rheinhessen

Keller

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Has a broad wine portfolio with 60 % accounted for by Riesling and also including the lesser known autochthon Silvaner as well as Spaetburgunder. 15 hectares.

www.keller-wein.de

Wittmann

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Since 2003 only biodynamic wine growing. A broad portfolio with 60% Riesling and also Silvaner and Spaetburgunder. Known for his outstanding dry wines. 25 hectares.

www.wittmannweingut.de

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Philipp Wittmann in Mainz

Saale-Unstrut

None

Sachsen

None

Wuerttemberg

None

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012 

Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2011

Germany's 15 Top Winemakers - The Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2010

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

The Wines of the Roter Hang (Red Slope) in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Stong Performance

German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009 

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Ernst Loosen

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009 
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Riesling Rendezvous Grand Tasting

Winemakers from seven countries will converge at Riesling Rendezvous July 14, 2013 in Seattle, giving wine lovers an unprecedented opportunity to explore the finest Rieslings from around the world in one location. Hosted by Chateau Ste. Michelle, of Washington and Dr. Loosen, the famed German Riesling estate, the Riesling Rendezvous Grand Tasting will be held on the picturesque grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville from 5-8 p.m. More than 70 wineries from Australia, Austria, Canada, Germany, New Zealand, Slovakia, California, Idaho, Michigan, Oregon, New York, New Jersey and Washington will showcase the great diversity of Riesling from their regions.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and H.O. Spanier, Weingut Battenfeld Spanier

See also:
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

“Riesling Rendezvous has grown into the largest event dedicated to Riesling in the United States,” says Ted Baseler, president of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. “We are extremely fortunate to have some of the most renowned Riesling winemakers in the world participate and showcase the great attributes of this noble grape.”

4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State

The Grand Tasting is part of the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, a three-day event July 14-16 designed to bring together leading experts and producers to explore the versatility of Rieslings from around the world, discuss issues and opportunities surrounding the advancement of Riesling, and forge alliances among producers and Riesling enthusiasts. The trade tastings July 15 & 16 will be held at the Bell Harbor International Conference Center in Seattle and feature in-depth blind tastings and seminars led by distinguished speakers and producers, on topics such as Proving That Terroir Matters, The Electric Riesling Acid Test: The Effect of Sweetness & Acidity with Food, Marketing Riesling, Masters of Riesling and Riesling pairing demonstrations with cheese and smoked salmon...and more!

Picture: Clemens Busch and Christian G.E. Schiller at Kloster Eberbach in Germany

For more, see:
Schiller’s Favorites from the VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru – Presentation at Kloster Eberbach, 2012, Germany
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Chateau Ste. Michelle has been a champion of Riesling for more than 40 years and was among the first to plant Riesling in the state of Washington. Ste. Michelle was catapulted into the national spotlight when its 1972 Johannisberg Riesling won the now-famous blind tasting of nineteen White Rieslings sponsored by the Los Angeles Times. Today, Chateau Ste. Michelle offers up to eight different Riesling styles designed to showcase the versatility of Riesling and the regional styles within Washington’s Columbia Valley, which produces more Riesling than any other American wine region.

Picture: Joseph Leitz

See more:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

More than a decade ago, Chateau Ste. Michelle teamed up with Ernst Loosen to collaborate on Eroica Riesling, an ultra-premium Washington Riesling. Riesling Rendezvous was born out of this special partnership’s commitment to promote the extraordinary nature of Riesling.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil in Kiedrich 

See also:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany and Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany and German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany 

Participating Producers

Here is a list of participating producers.

Australia

Frankland Estate
Jim Barry Wines
Mitchell Wines
Pikes

Austria

Domäne Wachau
Emmerich Knoll - Weingut Knoll
Loimer
Markus Huber

Canada

Cave Spring Cellars
Mission Hill Family Estate
Tantalus Vineyards
Thirty Bench Winemakers

Germany

A. Christmann
Battenfeld Spanier
Clemens Busch
Dönnhoff
Dr. Loosen
Fritz Haag
Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan
Leitz
Maximin Grünhaus
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt
Robert Weil

New Zealand

Framingham Wines Ltd.
Villa Maria Estate
Slovakia
Elesko Winery

United States

California

Madroña Vineyards
Municipal Winemakers
Trefethen Family Vineyards

Idaho

Ste. Chapelle Winery

Michigan

Black Star Farms
Chateau Grand Traverse
Shady Lane Cellars

New Jersey

Alba Vineyard

New York

Anthony Road Wine Company
Fox Run Vineyards
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard
Red Newt Cellars, Inc.
Sheldrake Point Winery

Oregon

Bridgeview Vineyards
Brooks
Chehalem
Trisaetum
Tunkalilla Vineyard

Washington

Anew
Charles Smith Wines
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Efeste
The Hogue Cellars
Mercer Estates Winery
Pacific Rim
Snoqualmie
Tulip Valley Winery
The Woodhouse Wine Estates

About Chateau Ste. Michelle;

Founded in 1934, Chateau Ste. Michelle pioneered vinifera grape growing in Washington state and has been producing classic European varietal wines under the Ste. Michelle label since 1967. The winery combines an ongoing dedication to research with a commitment to classic winemaking traditions. The winery owns 3,500 acres of vineyards in the Columbia Valley of eastern Washington, including Canoe Ridge Estate and Cold Creek, which are LIVE and Salmon Safe certified. Chateau Ste. Michelle enjoys winemaking partnerships with two of the world’s most distinguished vintners. Col Solare is an alliance with Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Eroica Riesling is a partnership with the Mosel’s Ernst Loosen.

About Dr. Loosen Estate 

The Dr. Loosen estate has a 200-year tradition of producing Riesling in Germany’s Mosel region. With his modern world view and his traditional approach to winemaking, Ernst Loosen strives to produce wines that unmistakably express the character of Riesling and of the vineyards where they are grown. Decanter magazine named Ernst Loosen 2005 “Man of the Year” for his perseverance in promoting and producing great Rieslings around the world.

Contacts
Ste. Michelle Wine Estates
Lynda Eller, 425-415-3364
lynda.eller@smwe.com

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US


When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

The Wines of the Roter Hang (Red Slope) in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009 

The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

Schiller’s Favorites from the VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru – Presentation at Kloster Eberbach, 2012, Germany

With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011 

Monday, June 3, 2013

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, in Kiedrich

For more on Weingut Weil, see:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten) – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further.

The latest modifications are those that came into effect with the vintage of 2012. This posting provides an overview of the VDP classification system, including the recent refinements and modifications.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Gunter Kuenstler at Schloss Johnnisberg. Weingut Kuenstler was founded by my the late Franz Kuenstler. We were both founding members of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim: The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

At the Center of the VDP Classification: Burgundian Approach with the Terroir Principle

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Indeed, for dry wines the pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has been completely eliminated in the VDP classification system.

Following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest.

Before outlining the main elements of the VDP classification system, I briefly describe the recent modifications.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Ernst Loosen at Rasika in Washington DC

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

The Refinements Effective Vintage 2012

The two main refinements of the recent modifications are: the move from a 3 tier to a 4 tier system and the renaming of the top tier vineyards.

First: From 3 Tier to 4 Tier System

The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

Second: Renaming the Absolutely Finest Vineyards from Erste Lage into Grosse Lage

The top-level category of vineyards has been renamed. These vineyards used to be called Erste Lage (Premier Cru). The absolutely finest vineyards are called from the vintahe 2012 on Grosse Lage (Grand Gru).

Third: Introduction of a Second Vineyard Category, which is called Erste Lage (Premier Cru)

The VDP has introduced a second vineyard category for the very good classified sites, which are not a Grosse Lage and will call them Erste Lage (Premier Cru).

The VDP Classification System

The VDP classification system with its 4 quality classes can be summarized as follows.

First: VDP.Grosse Lage - The Peak of the Pyramid

VDP.Grosse Lage is the peak of the terroir-based pyramid, equivalent to Grand Cru in the Bourgogne. This are the very best vineyards of Germany.

Maximum yield is at 50hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level. The grapes can be fermented in a dry, fruity sweet and noble sweet style.

A dry wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is designated VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and labeled Qualitätswein trocken. A Grosses Gewaechs wine is from 2012 on the ultra premium dry wine made from a Grosse Lage vineyard.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Graefenberg, Riesling, Grosses Gewaechs

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Generally, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness, “thereby enabling the Prädikats to resume their traditional meaning”, as stated by the VDP. The Prädikats have lost their critical importance that they have in the traditional classification system of 1971. In the VDP classification system, they have become an indication for a sweetness range.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Graefenberg, Riesling, Spaetlese

Second: VDP.Erste Lage - First Class

VDP.Erste Lage designates first-class vineyards with distinctive characteristics, equivalent to Premier Cru in the Bourgogne. Erste Lage vineyards provide optimal growing conditions, as evidenced over a long period of time.

They are planted with traditional varieties. Maximum yield is at 60hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level. 
A dry wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled Qualitätswein trocken. Note that there is no “VDP.Erstes Gewaechs” designation.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Turmberg, Riesling trocken

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Turmberg, Riesling, Spaetlese

Third: VDP.Ortswein - Sourced from Superior Soils

A VDP.Ortswein originates from a village's best vineyards that are planted with grape varieties typical of their region, equivalent to a village wine in the Bourgogne. Maximum yield is at 75hl/ha.
A dry VDP.Ortswein is labeled Qualitätswein trocken.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, Riesling trocken

A VDP.Ortswein with residual sweetness is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats.
Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, Riesling, Spaetlese

Fourth: VDP.Gutswein – Entry Level

VDP.Gutsweine are the entry-level wines in the VDP's hierarchy.

Generall, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness. Gutsweine, however, are excluded from this general rule as it applies only to the top 3 quality categories. Thus, we might see Gutswein Kabinett trocken and Gutswein Spaetlese trocken in the shelves.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Riesling trocken

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Nik Weis in Berlin: Germany’s VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin - Overview

Key Elements of the VDP Classification System to Remember

First: Use of the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese only for Fruity-Sweet Wines

As a major innovation, the VDP members have dropped the traditional Prädikats for dry wine. Only wines that have a noticeable level of sweetness carry the traditional Prädikats like Kabinett, Spaetlese or Auslese. Thus, if you see Spaetlese on the label of a VDP member wine, you can be sure that it is a fruity sweet Spaetlese. The label with “Spaetlese trocken” does not exist anymore among the VDP members.

Second: The Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese no longer Indicator of Ripeness at Harvest, but Indicator for Sweetness of the Finished Wines

In the 1971 Classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of ripeness at harvest. Thus, for instance, you can have a fruity sweet Spaetlese and a dry Spaetlese. In the VDP classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of sweetness of the finished wine (and not of the ripeness at harvest).

Third: All Dry Wines up to the Highest Quality Level are Labeled Qualitaetswein trocken

All dry wines up to the highest quality level – the Grosses Gewaechs wines from a Grosse Lage vineyard – are labeled Qualitaetswein (QbA) trocken. A wine made from grapes harvested at Spaetlese level and fully fermented to complete dryness, for example, are marketed as QbA wine. And the level of quality would be indicated by the terroir concept (Gutswein, Ortswein, Erste Lage, Grosse Lage).

This of course does not make it easier for wine consumers to read and understand German wine labels, because the Qualitaetswein denomination has a completely different meaning in the standard classification system. There, it indicates that this wine is an entry-level wine of basic quality. In the VDP classification, Qualitaetswein does not mean anything, as in the VDP system even the ultra-premium dry wines are labeled as a QbA.

Fourth: Grosses Gewaechs – Ultra-premium Dry Wine

The dry counterpart of the fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines of the VDP are the bone dry Grosses Gewaechs wines. These are ‘Grand Cru” wines made from grapes from a Grosse Lage vineyard, harvested at Spaetlese or Auslese level in terms of sugar content and fully fermented so that they become bone-dry. The Grosse Gewaechs label is thought to resemble the Grand Cru designation in neighboring France. Here and there, these wines are bone-dry.

Fifth: No Single Vineyard Wines below Grosse Lage and Erste Lage

In the VDP classification, only Grosse Lage and Erste Lage vineyards appear on the label. If a wine comes from a vineyard that is not in the exclusive circle of Grosse and Erste Lage, the label will not carry any vineyard name. Instead, it will be either a village wine (with just the village and the name of the winery on the label) or an Estate wine (with just the name of the winery on the label).

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Manfred Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem. I met Manfred's daughter Katharina Pruem in Washington DC recently and wrote about Weingut JJ Pruem: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

The VDP

The VDP is the world’s oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

In 1910, four regional wine-growers’ associations joined forces to form the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (i.e. estates that sold their “natural” [unchaptalized] wines at auction). These organizations – from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen, founded in 1897 and 1900, respectively, and their counterparts in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Pfalz regions, both founded in 1908 – were the forerunners of today’s VDP. At this time, fine German wines enjoyed a heyday. They were among the most expensive wines, on the tables of imperial houses as well as leading hotels and restaurants.

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

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