Picture: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC
My wife Annette Schiller and I had seen the Rolling Stones in the Festhalle in Frankfurt am Main, Germany in the early 1970’s, when we were not yet married, not to talk about children and grandchildren. Now, 40 years or so later, with 4 children and 2 ½ grandchildren (the ½ due any day), we went back to the Stones to see them in the Verizon Center in Washington DC. We started the evening with a light dinner and Riesling at Proof, arguably the best wine bar in town, including a 1976 Riesling Spaetlese Trocken, and concluded the evening at Bistro Francais in Georgetown, one of the few places in DC where you can have a decent dinner at midnight.
Proof
Proof is in the Penn Quarter, i.e. in walking distance to the Verizon Center where the Rolling Stones played. I am always debating with myself, if Proof is a wine bar or a wine-centered restaurant. In any case, if you are looking for a more substantial fare along with a premium wine, check out Proof - known for its numerous small plates but also for its eclectic selection of creative modern cuisine. Its wine list is outstanding, containing over 40 by-the-glass selections and 1,000 different bottles, reaching up into the highest price and quality levels. Proof’s wine list is one of the best, if not the best in town. Proof also offers a bring-your-own wine option for a corkage fee of $35.
Pictures: Proof in Washington DC
Sommelier Joe Quinn
Joe Quinn is the Sommelier. Joe was a part of the opening waitstaff at Proof; in the summer of 2010 he became a sommelier at Proof and at sister restaurant Estadio.
Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, Christian Schiller and Proof Sommelier Joe Quinn
See:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013
Summer of Riesling at Proof
I had made an early reservation (5:30 pm). Proof participates in the “Summer of Riesling 2013” (Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States) and had 3 Rieslings by the glass on the list: (1) Merkelbach, Uerziger Wuerzgarten, Spaetlese, (2) Doennhoff Riesling and Efeste Evergreen Vineyard Riesling. We chose the Doennhoff and the Efeste, both very nice, crisp, refreshing wines, with the Washington State Riesling being the driest wine.
We then had some light food – salumi and a salmon tartar - with our 1976 Riesling Spaetlese Trocken, Meddersheimer Paradiesgarten, Winzergenossenschaft Meddersheim.
Pictures: Light Dinner at Proof
Meddersheim is in the Nahe Valley. There are 5 wine producers, including the large co-operative, where I bought a case of this wine many years ago. The Paradiesgarten is a “Grosslage” combining different single vineyards. Don’t confuse it with “Grosse Lage” – the absolute top single vineyards in the VDP classification.
Picture: 1976 Riesling Spaetlese Trocken, Meddersheimer Paradiesgarten, Winzergenossenschaft Meddersheim.
The 1976 Riesling presented itself as a senior citizen that is still going very strong. Dark golden in the glass, intense notes of honeysuckle and vanilla on the nose, still good acidity, did stay too long in the mouth, but was very pleasant wine. And the history and memories!
Picture: C&A
Andrew Myers
Leaving Proof, we bumped into CityZen Sommelier Andy Myers. I had seen him a few weeks ago at the occasion of a tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen. Andrew Myers is one of the great Rock ‘n’ Roll cum Wine Experts in town. Let me quote from an earlier posting: Andrew Myers' sommelier career began at The Inn at Little Washington in 1997. He later returned to Washington to manage the wait staff and the wine department of Restaurant Nora. Five years later, he joined the team at CityZen. At 40 plus now, Andrew Myers remains obsessed with metal. He plays the drums in a Heavy Metal Group and is covered in tattoos that would make most head bangers proud. But that obsession is rivaled by his passion for wine.
Picture: Andrew Meyers, Joe Quinn and Christian G.E. Schiller
See:
Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA
The Rolling Stones Live
The Rolling Stones
The Rolling Stones were formed in London in 1962. I got my first LP – Around and Around (released in 1964) – in 1965. The first line-up had Brian Jones (who died in 1969) on guitar and harmonica, Mick Jagger on lead vocals and harmonica, Keith Richards on guitar and backing vocals, Bill Wyman (who left in 1993) on bass and Charlie Watts on drums. Ronnie Wood (who had been with the Birds, the Jeff Beck Group and the Faces before) joined in 1975, replacing Mick Taylor (who had followed Jones).
Pictures: The Rolling Stones
50 & Counting Tour started in November 2012, preceded by two club gigs in Paris. The Washington DC show was the final show in the US. We paid US$ 941.72 for 2 tickets, including service and delivery fee.
Picture: Ticket
Washington DC Concert
It was a very memorable concert. Sold out. Most of the people, including Annette, were standing and dancing through out the 2 hours plus concert.
Picture: Before the Show
Brian Ives (Radio.com): “So, was it the last time the Rolling Stones will perform in the U.S.?
Watching the band at the last U.S. stop on their 50 & Counting Tour Monday night (June 24) at the Verizon Center in Washington, D.C., there was no indication that they may pack it in. In fact, depending on your perspective (and your age) their two-hour show either defied or defined what is possible for a band whose members are all AARP age. Which is to say, they are still the best rock and roll band in the world on a good night. And Monday was certainly that: a very good night.
They opened with their 1965 hit “Get Off Of My Cloud”; the audience (of very mixed ages, by the way) responded by getting off of their seats, barely sitting down for the rest of the night. After that, there was a false start — proving that for all their slick professionalism, the Stones aren’t too over-rehearsed — and then “It’s Only Rock And Roll (But I Like It).”
Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC
After that came “Paint It Black.” Charlie Watts, subdued as ever, pounded the drums — but it was all in the wrists. He remains one of the coolest but least attention-hungry drummers in rock and roll. “Gimme Shelter” followed, featuring the group’s powerful backing singer, Lisa Fischer (featured in the documentary Twenty Feet From Stardom, about support vocalists) sharing the spotlight with Mick Jagger. Earlier in the tour, Mary J. Blige and Lady Gaga took the iconic Merry Clayton vocal part in the song, but Fischer proved that she owns that song as much as anyone. She’s a reminder that you don’t have to be famous — or want to be — to be great. (The same goes for the band’s other backing singer, Bernard Fowler.) Meanwhile, the formidable guitar team of Keith Richards and Ron Wood demonstrated how they “weave” around each other, their distinct styles complementing the other’s: Richards’ stabbing at his instrument blending with Wood’s more fluid style.
After “Shelter,” Jagger welcomed the audience, noting that the band first came to Washington, D.C. in 1965, mentioning that back then, First Lady Ladybird Johnson used to come to see the band. “I don’t think President Obama is here tonight,” he said. “But I’m sure he’s listening in!”
Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC
Jagger then got behind an electric piano for a relatively rare track, “Worried About You” from 1981′s Tattoo You. His falsetto might not be quite what it was three decades ago, but the song nonetheless was one of the highlights of a night that had many.
Each night on this tour the band takes an online poll to decide the “fan’s choice” song, and tonight’s winner was “Street Fighting Man.” (For those keeping score, it beat out “Rocks Off,” “Just My Imagination,” “You Got Me Rocking” and “Live With Me.”) That was followed by one of the band’s funkiest numbers, “Emotional Rescue,” and again, Mick’s falsetto did the job.
Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC
The one-two punch of their new songs — “Doom And Gloom” and “One More Shot” — from last year’s compilation GRRR! were next. For the record, the new songs didn’t lead to a bathroom/beer line exodus, which is often the case at concerts by veteran acts (and has been the case with the Stones in the past). Both songs showed that they still have some new contributions to make to their unbelievable songbook.
“Honky Tonk Woman” followed, and then Jagger introduced the band before leaving the stage, giving the mic up to Richards, who joked, as he always does, “It’s good to be here — it’s good to be anywhere!” (Actually, given the chemicals that he’s ingested over the decades, he’s probably not joking.) After an emotional “You Got The Silver,” Richards rocked through “Before They Make Me Run,” a song that features one of his loveliest lyrics: “See my taillights fading/There’s not a dry eye in the house.”
Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC
Most shows on this tour have featured big-name celebrity guests — Carrie Underwood, John Mayer, Gwen Stefani, Katy Perry, Taylor Swift. They’ve been fun, but they also seem a bit forced. The one guest fans seem to appreciate the most is the one who could probably walk down the street without being recognized: former guitarist Mick Taylor. As he has done for most of the tour, he joined the band for “Midnight Rambler,” an epic guitar throwdown that also saw Jagger blasting through his harmonica going toe to toe with his former bandmate. It’s enough to make Stones fans wonder why he ever quit the band in the first place.
On “Miss You,” longtime touring bassist Daryl Jones plunked a deep groove on the song, bringing it a bit further into disco territory. A sweet moment during the song came when Jagger seemed like he was looking for something and Richards grabbed his shoulder and handed him his harmonica, mid-song.
Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC
A few of their biggest hits followed: “Start Me Up,” “Tumbling Dice,” and “Brown Sugar,” the last of which featured longtime sax player Bobby Keys replicating his original part on the song. As a drum loop from “Sympathy For The Devil” played, the band returned to the stage for the encore. Longtime touring pianist Chuck Leavell took the lead, giving the song a more gospel sound, before Jagger brought it back to sinister territory by hitting the stage armed with a feathered boa cloak and those six famous words: “Please allow me to introduce myself.”
They were joined by the Washington Chorus for “You Can’t Always Get What You Want,” giving it the presentation it has always deserved (they select a different local choir at every stop on the tour for that song). And then, arguably their two most iconic hits: “Jumpin’ Jack Flash” and “(I Can’t Get No) Satisfaction,” joined once again by Mick Taylor.
Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC
Could it actually have been the proverbial last time? With Mick and Keith turning 70 later this year (Charlie is already there), it seems like a possibility.
After the show, fans gathered at the arena’s garage exit, watching the band’s black SUV convoy leave the building. As their taillights, in fact, faded down the street, most were no doubt hoping that that wouldn’t be band’s last goodbye. But if it was, they went out on top.”
Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC - the End
Here is the full set list:
Get Off of my Cloud - It's Only Rock'n'Roll - Paint it Black - Gimme Shelter - Worried About You - Street Fighting Man (request winner) - Emotional Rescue - Doom and Gloom - One More Shot - Honky Tonk Woman - You got the Silver - Before they Make me Run - Midnight Rambler - Miss You - Start Me Up - Tumbling Dice - Brown Sugar - Sympathy for the Devil - Encore: You Can't Always Get What You Want - Jumping Jack Flash - Satisfaction
In Washington DC after the Show
We got back to Proof at 11:15 pm or so. The restaurant had closed already, but there were some people at the bar. Proof, like most other restaurants are closing at 11:00 pm or even earlier. Your best bet in situations like this are: Café Milano in Georgetown, Old Ebitt Grill next to the White House or Bistro Francais in Georgetown (in order of my preference).
You can eat at Café Milano until around 2:00 pm; it varies a bit throughout the week; Old Ebitt Grill is open until 2:00 and serves Happy Hour Oysters after 11:00 pm (Old Ebitt Grill reminds me a lot of La Coupole in Paris, which is open until 4:00 pm); Bistro Francaise is open every night until 3:00 pm.
We opted for Bistro Francais.
Night Comment on Facebook
Annette Schiller: Just got home after the really great Stones concert: what a beautiful evening: a full moon, perfect weather, great wines and food at Proof and the fantastic rhythm of Mick Jagger, Ron Woods, Keith Richards and Charlie Watts. Sometimes it has its advantages to get older.
Picture: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC - the End
schiller-wine: Related Postings
Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States
German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.
The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Monday, July 1, 2013
BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 – Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany
Pictures: Martin Zwick and Christian G.E. Schiller in Wiesbaden and Brandenburger Tor, Berlin
The BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 took place in May 1013 in Berlin, Germany, orchestrated by Martin Zwick. 30 wines were included in the tasting. They were blind-tasted by a group of sommeliers, wine writers and wine retailers. Winemaker Andi Schneider from the Nahe Valley attended as special guest.
“Gutsriesling” is a combination of Gutswein (Estate Wine) and Riesling: Rated were wines that fulfilled the two criteria – being a Gutswein and a Riesling (from Germany).
This was the second BerlinGutsrieslingCup. See here for last year’s results:
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany
Gutswein
What is a Gutswein – Estate Wine? Gutswein is a term introduced and used by the members of the VDP association, Germany’s elite winemakers. A Gutswein is an entry level wine of a VDP member.
In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest. The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):
• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)
Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.
For more background information, see:
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
Riesling
Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.
Martin Zwick and his Berlin Cups
Martin Zwick was initially known for organizing the BerlinRieslingCup every year. While the BerlinGutsrieslingCup reviews and rates entry-level Rieslings of VDP Estates, the BerlinRieslingCup is about Germany’s ultra-premium dry grand cru (Grosses Gewaechs) Rieslings. It typically takes place in the second half of September, following the release of the Grosses Gewaechs wines of the previous year.
This year, Martin Zwick also organized for the first time (in June) a BerlinKabinettCup: A ranking of off-dry, light Rieslings that carry the Kabinett predicate. I will post about it on schiller-wine.
See more:
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking
2013 Gutsriesling Ranking
1. A.J. Adam
2. Keller "Edition Pinard de Picard"
3. Bürklin-Wolf
4. Keller
5. Geltz-Zilliken
6. Scultetus-Brüssel
7. Julian Haart
8. Wittmann
9. Knewitz
10. Fritz Haag
11. Schäfer-Fröhlich
12. Karl Schaefer feinherb
13. Dönnhoff
14. Andi Schneider
15. Emrich-Schönleber
16. Bassermann-Jordan
17. Battenfeld-Spanier
Picture: H.O. Spanier and Christian G.E. Schiller in Bodenheim
See more:
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany
18. Krebs
19. Seehof
20. Fürst
21. Christmann
22. Thörle
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim.
For more on Winzerhof Thoerle see: Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany
23. Kühling-Gillot
24. Van Volxem
25. ***
26. Rebholz
27. Karl Schaefer trocken
28. Breuer Sauvage
29. Schloss Johannisberg
30. von Winning
schiller-wine - Related Postings
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011
Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany
1.International Riesling Symposium
Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany
Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany
The BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 took place in May 1013 in Berlin, Germany, orchestrated by Martin Zwick. 30 wines were included in the tasting. They were blind-tasted by a group of sommeliers, wine writers and wine retailers. Winemaker Andi Schneider from the Nahe Valley attended as special guest.
“Gutsriesling” is a combination of Gutswein (Estate Wine) and Riesling: Rated were wines that fulfilled the two criteria – being a Gutswein and a Riesling (from Germany).
This was the second BerlinGutsrieslingCup. See here for last year’s results:
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany
Gutswein
What is a Gutswein – Estate Wine? Gutswein is a term introduced and used by the members of the VDP association, Germany’s elite winemakers. A Gutswein is an entry level wine of a VDP member.
In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest. The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):
• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)
Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.
For more background information, see:
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
Riesling
Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.
Martin Zwick and his Berlin Cups
Martin Zwick was initially known for organizing the BerlinRieslingCup every year. While the BerlinGutsrieslingCup reviews and rates entry-level Rieslings of VDP Estates, the BerlinRieslingCup is about Germany’s ultra-premium dry grand cru (Grosses Gewaechs) Rieslings. It typically takes place in the second half of September, following the release of the Grosses Gewaechs wines of the previous year.
This year, Martin Zwick also organized for the first time (in June) a BerlinKabinettCup: A ranking of off-dry, light Rieslings that carry the Kabinett predicate. I will post about it on schiller-wine.
See more:
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking
2013 Gutsriesling Ranking
1. A.J. Adam
2. Keller "Edition Pinard de Picard"
3. Bürklin-Wolf
4. Keller
5. Geltz-Zilliken
6. Scultetus-Brüssel
7. Julian Haart
8. Wittmann
9. Knewitz
10. Fritz Haag
11. Schäfer-Fröhlich
12. Karl Schaefer feinherb
13. Dönnhoff
14. Andi Schneider
15. Emrich-Schönleber
16. Bassermann-Jordan
17. Battenfeld-Spanier
See more:
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany
18. Krebs
19. Seehof
20. Fürst
21. Christmann
22. Thörle
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim.
For more on Winzerhof Thoerle see: Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany
23. Kühling-Gillot
24. Van Volxem
25. ***
26. Rebholz
27. Karl Schaefer trocken
28. Breuer Sauvage
29. Schloss Johannisberg
30. von Winning
schiller-wine - Related Postings
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011
Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany
1.International Riesling Symposium
Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany
Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany
Labels:
Germany,
Riesling,
Wine ratings
Sunday, June 30, 2013
Caroline Parent-Gros Presented the Wines of Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne at Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range in Washington DC
Picture: Caroline Parent-Gros from Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne and Daughter of the Owners and Winemakers, Anne Francoise Gros and Francois Parent and Christian G.E. Schiller
Caroline Parent-Gros from Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne and daughter of the Owners and Winemakers, Anne Francoise Gros and Francois Parent, was in town (Washington DC) and guided us through a tasting of her families smashing 2010 Burgundies during a winemaker dinner at the newly opened at Range in the Washington DC area.
Domaine A-F Gros
The Gros family has been making wines in Burgundy since the 1830′s. The Domaine A-F Gros was created in 1996 when Jean and Jeanine Gros retired and divided their Domaine Gros-Renaudot among their 3 children, Michel, Bernard and Anne-Françoise. 3 new domains arose out of Jean and Jeanine Gros’ retirement: Domaine Michel Gros in Vosne Romanée, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur directed by Bernard in Vosne Romanée, and Domaine A-F Gros in Pommard. In Vosne, there is also a domaine of cousin Anne Gros. So in total, there are 4 Gros domaines, all of them independent from each other.
Pictures: Caroline Parent-Gros
Anne-Françoise married François Parent, who also brought a domaine into the marriage. Today, after the purchase of more vineyards, the husband and wife domaines work alongside each other and present a treasure of appellations from both the Cote du Nuits and Cote du Beaune. Their vineyards are mainly in Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Savigny-les-Beaune, Beaune and Pommard villages and the Hautes Côtes. Francois is renowned for his wines of elegance and distinction, which are the perfect expression of French Pinot Noir. Leaning towards a bio-dynamic approach, his traditional methods of cultivating the land and tending the vines are intimately adapted to the different micro-climates, soils, and expositions of the vineyards. Anne-Françoise and François live in Pommard but the winery is in Beaune.
Pictures: Sommelier Kathy Morgan, Al McCosh, Owner of Nice Legs, the Distributer, and Christian Schiller
Former Citronelle Wine Director and Sommelier Kathy Morgan is a Master Sommelier. There are only a bit more than 100 sommeliers in the world who have achieved the title of Master Sommelier.
For other dinners organised by Al McCosh, see:
The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
The Next Generation: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.
Anne-Françoise and François have three children: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.
Rosalie has nothing to do with wine, while Caroline (in her mid 30s, she has 2 children) and Mathias (in his early 20s) work side by side with their parents and are slated to eventually take over. Caroline focuses on the sales side (with her mother), while Mathias on the winemaking (with his father).
Pictures: Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Wine Tours, Caroline Parent-Gros and Christian G.E. Schiller
For upcoming Ombiasy Wine Tours, see:
Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013
Caroline has recently launched her own negociant venture and produces wines from a variety of vineyards located in both Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Part of her own venture is Pinot Angels, co-founded with Chef Hubert Keller in 2012. Hubert Keller is the owner of Fleur de Lys in San Francisco and Las Vegas. Hubert is an Alsace-born chef and a passionate Harley rider. "When you are a Pinot Angel, you ride freely in elegance and tradition. Not just anyone can handle this" says
Caroline Parent-Gros.
Pictures: Caroline Parent-Gros
Range by Chef Bryan Voltaggio
Tom Sietsema from the Washington Post: “Descriptions of Range, the latest creation from “Top Chef” alumnus Bryan Voltaggio, make the Chevy Chase Pavilion location sound more like an ocean liner than a restaurant. Three hundred seats! Thirty cooks! Nine food stations! Did you know Range also stocks two master sommeliers? The last detail is offered by one of the title holders, who proudly tells her customers the claim is shared only with the fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley.
Pictures: Range
Few restaurants have been as eagerly awaited as Range, the first foray into Washington by Voltaggio, whose three establishments in Frederick -- Volt, Lunchbox and Family Meal -- draw food enthusiasts from across the region. Part of the fuss stems from the chef’s celebrity and part of the attention is explained by the reality: Despite all the money and the stomachs in the area, Friendship Heights is poor when it comes to choice places to dine.
The big surprise after four dinners: The hype is justified. Range, backed by chef de cuisine Matt Hill from Charlie Palmer Steak, is a terrific restaurant much of the time. ...
The menu, no surprise, is long and varied. The left side of the script focuses on raw seafood, charcuterie, cheese, salads and pasta; the right column is devoted to pizza, grilled meats and fish, pan-roasted items and vegetable dishes. …
Pictures: Range
The prime seats are those to the left of the bar, a curved stretch with floor-to-ceiling windows that look into the atrium on one side and with a view of the cooking stations -- “a chef’s playground,” Voltaggio calls them -- on the other. The expanse in the back feels more like an overflow room. Range’s cream-colored seats and muted palette let the food shine; a retail shop with Voltaggio-approved kitchen equipment feels as if Williams-Sonoma crashed the party.
Take advantage of the sterling credentials of the sommeliers. Keith Goldston and more recently Kathy Morgan clearly enjoy sharing the stories behind their liquid wares, which call to both the haves and the have-not-as-muches with a broad range of wines and prices. France is particularly well represented."
Vintage 2010
We tasted vintage 2010 wines. Caroline Parent: “2010 could be compared to 2002 with its structure and tannins. Small volume (-30 to 50%). 2010 will be a complex wine representative of big Burgundy wines to be aged. It is a collection vintage.
Picture: Getting Ready
What we Ate and Drank
Pictures: The Dinner Table
Grilled king salmon, pork belly, corn, porcini, summer truffle
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits (US$42.99)
From a parcel located on a very well exposed small hill with the forest behind, which protects it from strong winds. The vines are planted so they follow the slope and contours of the small hill. This layout permits vines to be planted on steep slopes without the risk of erosion of the soil. Generous and robust, full-bodied and round, it combines engaging berry aromas with real strength. This is a lovely wine and a good step up from most regular Bourgogne.
Jancis Robinson: Meat juice, bit of blood, whip-smart acid. Great fruit, but not quite so complex as the basic Bourgogne rouge. 16 Points
Yukon gold potato gnocchi, braised pork, guanciale, young garlic
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Savigny-le-Beaune, 1er Cru Les Clos des Guettes (US$72.99)
A-F Gros is an excellent source for this wine on the upper slope facing south. Superb freshness on the nose and palate. Displays great minerality and acidity. Lovely vibrant palate with fine tannins and excellent length. This appellation has received Burghound’s Sweet Spot award for the last five vintages.
Jancis Robinson: Minty, herbal notes and a really attractive grip on the finish. Nutmeg spice, redcurrant – all sorts going on in here. Ably shows Pinot's breadth. 17 Points
Bobo farm squab, foie gras spinach emulsion
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Beaune 1er Cru Les Boucherottes (US$79.99)
Boucherottes is located near the Pommard border but surprisingly produces a fruity style of wine without hard tannins. The earth here is supple, very fine and quite red in color. The yield from the old vines here is very small. The regularity of this cru is quite remarkable. Red-blue pinot fruit of serious style and body. A very smart wine from Beaune, a commune that is starting to produce some very exciting wines at reasonable prices. Like all good reds from Beaune this merits some time in the cellar.
Jancis Robinson: Wonderful red fruit clarity with that Burgundy savouriness and the perfect dose of oak. Debonair, classy and poised. 17.5 Points
Roseda farms beef, stuffed morels, chicory
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Chambolle-Musigny (US$79.99)
From vineyards totaling 39 acres, divided into several parcels with different localities: Frémières, Le Pas de Chat, Derrière le Four, Les Athets. The parcels are fermented together. Lovely depth of colour. An aromatic nose leads to a rich, softer, rounder palate typical of the appellation (when compared to Pommard or Beaune). Still retains the minerality that makes 2010 so special. A really lovely example of what Chambolle should produce.
Jancis Robinson: Juicy red fruit, quite primary and juvenile. Enjoyable. 16.5+ Points
Pleasant ridge reserve, beets, lemon, thyme
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Vosne-Romanee Clos de la Fontaine Monopole (US$85.99)
From a parcel of 35 ares. One of the strengths of the A-F Gros range are the three Vosne-Romanee Lieu-dits. Clos de la Fontaine is a beautifully balanced wine with all the spice you would expect from Vosne-omanee. Not a big wine but one that expresses the style and class of Vosne-Romanee with its bright, mineral infused flavours of berry and earth.
Jancis Robinson: Syrupy red cherry fruit, gentle tannins, bit of forest floor, supple and light with charming daintiness. 17 Points
schiller-wine: Related Postings
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner
The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
Lunch with Pinot Noir Giant Walter Schug in Sonoma, California
Visiting Walter Schug and his Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Carneros, California
Wine Tasting: The Pinot Noirs of Patricia Green, Oregon, US
The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon
Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA
Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013
Caroline Parent-Gros from Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne and daughter of the Owners and Winemakers, Anne Francoise Gros and Francois Parent, was in town (Washington DC) and guided us through a tasting of her families smashing 2010 Burgundies during a winemaker dinner at the newly opened at Range in the Washington DC area.
Domaine A-F Gros
The Gros family has been making wines in Burgundy since the 1830′s. The Domaine A-F Gros was created in 1996 when Jean and Jeanine Gros retired and divided their Domaine Gros-Renaudot among their 3 children, Michel, Bernard and Anne-Françoise. 3 new domains arose out of Jean and Jeanine Gros’ retirement: Domaine Michel Gros in Vosne Romanée, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur directed by Bernard in Vosne Romanée, and Domaine A-F Gros in Pommard. In Vosne, there is also a domaine of cousin Anne Gros. So in total, there are 4 Gros domaines, all of them independent from each other.
Pictures: Caroline Parent-Gros
Anne-Françoise married François Parent, who also brought a domaine into the marriage. Today, after the purchase of more vineyards, the husband and wife domaines work alongside each other and present a treasure of appellations from both the Cote du Nuits and Cote du Beaune. Their vineyards are mainly in Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Savigny-les-Beaune, Beaune and Pommard villages and the Hautes Côtes. Francois is renowned for his wines of elegance and distinction, which are the perfect expression of French Pinot Noir. Leaning towards a bio-dynamic approach, his traditional methods of cultivating the land and tending the vines are intimately adapted to the different micro-climates, soils, and expositions of the vineyards. Anne-Françoise and François live in Pommard but the winery is in Beaune.
Pictures: Sommelier Kathy Morgan, Al McCosh, Owner of Nice Legs, the Distributer, and Christian Schiller
Former Citronelle Wine Director and Sommelier Kathy Morgan is a Master Sommelier. There are only a bit more than 100 sommeliers in the world who have achieved the title of Master Sommelier.
For other dinners organised by Al McCosh, see:
The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
The Next Generation: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.
Anne-Françoise and François have three children: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.
Rosalie has nothing to do with wine, while Caroline (in her mid 30s, she has 2 children) and Mathias (in his early 20s) work side by side with their parents and are slated to eventually take over. Caroline focuses on the sales side (with her mother), while Mathias on the winemaking (with his father).
Pictures: Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Wine Tours, Caroline Parent-Gros and Christian G.E. Schiller
For upcoming Ombiasy Wine Tours, see:
Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013
Caroline has recently launched her own negociant venture and produces wines from a variety of vineyards located in both Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Part of her own venture is Pinot Angels, co-founded with Chef Hubert Keller in 2012. Hubert Keller is the owner of Fleur de Lys in San Francisco and Las Vegas. Hubert is an Alsace-born chef and a passionate Harley rider. "When you are a Pinot Angel, you ride freely in elegance and tradition. Not just anyone can handle this" says
Caroline Parent-Gros.
Pictures: Caroline Parent-Gros
Range by Chef Bryan Voltaggio
Tom Sietsema from the Washington Post: “Descriptions of Range, the latest creation from “Top Chef” alumnus Bryan Voltaggio, make the Chevy Chase Pavilion location sound more like an ocean liner than a restaurant. Three hundred seats! Thirty cooks! Nine food stations! Did you know Range also stocks two master sommeliers? The last detail is offered by one of the title holders, who proudly tells her customers the claim is shared only with the fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley.
Pictures: Range
Few restaurants have been as eagerly awaited as Range, the first foray into Washington by Voltaggio, whose three establishments in Frederick -- Volt, Lunchbox and Family Meal -- draw food enthusiasts from across the region. Part of the fuss stems from the chef’s celebrity and part of the attention is explained by the reality: Despite all the money and the stomachs in the area, Friendship Heights is poor when it comes to choice places to dine.
The big surprise after four dinners: The hype is justified. Range, backed by chef de cuisine Matt Hill from Charlie Palmer Steak, is a terrific restaurant much of the time. ...
The menu, no surprise, is long and varied. The left side of the script focuses on raw seafood, charcuterie, cheese, salads and pasta; the right column is devoted to pizza, grilled meats and fish, pan-roasted items and vegetable dishes. …
Pictures: Range
The prime seats are those to the left of the bar, a curved stretch with floor-to-ceiling windows that look into the atrium on one side and with a view of the cooking stations -- “a chef’s playground,” Voltaggio calls them -- on the other. The expanse in the back feels more like an overflow room. Range’s cream-colored seats and muted palette let the food shine; a retail shop with Voltaggio-approved kitchen equipment feels as if Williams-Sonoma crashed the party.
Take advantage of the sterling credentials of the sommeliers. Keith Goldston and more recently Kathy Morgan clearly enjoy sharing the stories behind their liquid wares, which call to both the haves and the have-not-as-muches with a broad range of wines and prices. France is particularly well represented."
Vintage 2010
We tasted vintage 2010 wines. Caroline Parent: “2010 could be compared to 2002 with its structure and tannins. Small volume (-30 to 50%). 2010 will be a complex wine representative of big Burgundy wines to be aged. It is a collection vintage.
Picture: Getting Ready
What we Ate and Drank
Pictures: The Dinner Table
Grilled king salmon, pork belly, corn, porcini, summer truffle
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits (US$42.99)
From a parcel located on a very well exposed small hill with the forest behind, which protects it from strong winds. The vines are planted so they follow the slope and contours of the small hill. This layout permits vines to be planted on steep slopes without the risk of erosion of the soil. Generous and robust, full-bodied and round, it combines engaging berry aromas with real strength. This is a lovely wine and a good step up from most regular Bourgogne.
Jancis Robinson: Meat juice, bit of blood, whip-smart acid. Great fruit, but not quite so complex as the basic Bourgogne rouge. 16 Points
Yukon gold potato gnocchi, braised pork, guanciale, young garlic
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Savigny-le-Beaune, 1er Cru Les Clos des Guettes (US$72.99)
A-F Gros is an excellent source for this wine on the upper slope facing south. Superb freshness on the nose and palate. Displays great minerality and acidity. Lovely vibrant palate with fine tannins and excellent length. This appellation has received Burghound’s Sweet Spot award for the last five vintages.
Jancis Robinson: Minty, herbal notes and a really attractive grip on the finish. Nutmeg spice, redcurrant – all sorts going on in here. Ably shows Pinot's breadth. 17 Points
Bobo farm squab, foie gras spinach emulsion
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Beaune 1er Cru Les Boucherottes (US$79.99)
Boucherottes is located near the Pommard border but surprisingly produces a fruity style of wine without hard tannins. The earth here is supple, very fine and quite red in color. The yield from the old vines here is very small. The regularity of this cru is quite remarkable. Red-blue pinot fruit of serious style and body. A very smart wine from Beaune, a commune that is starting to produce some very exciting wines at reasonable prices. Like all good reds from Beaune this merits some time in the cellar.
Jancis Robinson: Wonderful red fruit clarity with that Burgundy savouriness and the perfect dose of oak. Debonair, classy and poised. 17.5 Points
Roseda farms beef, stuffed morels, chicory
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Chambolle-Musigny (US$79.99)
From vineyards totaling 39 acres, divided into several parcels with different localities: Frémières, Le Pas de Chat, Derrière le Four, Les Athets. The parcels are fermented together. Lovely depth of colour. An aromatic nose leads to a rich, softer, rounder palate typical of the appellation (when compared to Pommard or Beaune). Still retains the minerality that makes 2010 so special. A really lovely example of what Chambolle should produce.
Jancis Robinson: Juicy red fruit, quite primary and juvenile. Enjoyable. 16.5+ Points
Pleasant ridge reserve, beets, lemon, thyme
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Vosne-Romanee Clos de la Fontaine Monopole (US$85.99)
From a parcel of 35 ares. One of the strengths of the A-F Gros range are the three Vosne-Romanee Lieu-dits. Clos de la Fontaine is a beautifully balanced wine with all the spice you would expect from Vosne-omanee. Not a big wine but one that expresses the style and class of Vosne-Romanee with its bright, mineral infused flavours of berry and earth.
Jancis Robinson: Syrupy red cherry fruit, gentle tannins, bit of forest floor, supple and light with charming daintiness. 17 Points
schiller-wine: Related Postings
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner
The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
Lunch with Pinot Noir Giant Walter Schug in Sonoma, California
Visiting Walter Schug and his Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Carneros, California
Wine Tasting: The Pinot Noirs of Patricia Green, Oregon, US
The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon
Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA
Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013
Labels:
Bourgogne,
France,
Washington DC,
wine and food
Friday, June 28, 2013
Italian Natural Wines
Picture: Vendredi du Vin #57 - Vini Naturali d'Italia
Italian Wine
Italy is home of some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Etruscans and Greek settlers produced wine in the country long before the Romans started developing their own vineyards. Two thousand years later, Italy is world leader in wine, accounting for about 20% of world wine production. Italians also lead the world in wine consumption by volume, 59 liters per capita, compared with 8 liters per capita in the US. Wine is grown in almost every region of the country.
Picture: The Wine Regions of Italy
Vendredi du Vin #57: Italian Natural Wines
This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by Patrick Böttcher, a manager of a pharmacy in Brussels, Belgium. The subject is: Italina Natural Wine: “Petit rappel, les italiens définissent leurs vins comme naturels s'ils sont issus de sols respectueux de la nature, et s'ils sont fait en respect avec l'artisanat historique tout en intervenant un minimum afin de conserver les marques de leur fruit et de leur terroir. S'ils ont effectivement souvent très peu de soufre embarqué, il n'y apas de règle absolue, juste du bon sens.”
My contribution is a bit broader than Italian natural wines. After a short primer of different concepts of “green” winemaking, including natural I profile “Agricola Querciabella” is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.
Patrick Böttcher’s List of Italian Natural Wine Producers
Here is Patrick Patrick Böttcher’s List of Italian Natural Wine Producers: “Bon comme on est sympa et qu'on sait que vous allez caler, voici une liste de gentils vignerons dont nous vous conseillons absolument les quilles : Luca Roagna, Belotti, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Giuseppe Mascarello, Augusto Cappellano, Bartolo Mascarello, Brovia, Trinchero, Sylvio Morando, Villa Terlina, Elisabetta Foradori, Musella, Corte Sant'Alda, Tenuta Grillo, Lo Zerbone, La Stoppa, Denavolo, Tenuta di valgiano, Podere le Boncie, Pacina, Colombaia, Fonterenza, Stella di Campalto, Montevertine, Pian dell'Orino, Paradiso di Manfredi, Fattoria di Caspri, Massa Vecchia, Podere Sanguineto, Le Coste, Emilio Pepe, Cantina Giardino, Ca del Noce, Lamoresca, COS, Occhipinti, Frank Cornelissen, Paolo Bea, et tous les inspirés de la Slovénie voisine, Gravner, Princic, Radikon, Vodopivec... et j'en oublie, forcément !!!!!”
Natural and Other Green Concepts of Winemaking
What are natural wines? Generally, the idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. Natural wines are part of a group of wines that I would call “green wines”, wines made with an ecological concept in mind. There are several different concepts of “green wines”.
Organic: Organic generally means the use of natural as opposed to chemical fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. The key is: no chemicals.
Organic wines are changing the look of vineyards, literally. Whereas vineyards of the past commanded neat rows rid of all insects, rodents and weeds, organic vineyards are now replacing costly and damaging chemical sprays with environmental partnerships. Pesticides are giving way to introducing low-growing plants between vine rows that host beneficial insects that keep the pest insects in check.
Unfortunately, there is no agreement on what organic wine making as opposed to organic wine growing means. The main issue is the use of sulfur in the fermentation process. In the US, organic winemakers are not allowed to add sulfites during winemaking; an organic wine is a wine with basically zero sulfur. In Europe, sulfites are allowed to be added during fermentation and an organic wine typically contains a modest amount of sulfur.
Biodynamic: Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. Biodynamic is an approach following the rules and ideas of Austrian philosopher-scientist Rudolph Steiner. In his 1924 lectures, he viewed the farm as an entire living ecosystem starting with the soil which is treated as a living organism and receives special applications to enhance its health.
Sustainable: Sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. Sustainable farmers may farm largely organically or biodynamically but have flexibility to choose what works best for their individual property; they may also focus on energy and water conservation, use of renewable resources and other issues.
Natural: The idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. For example, only natural yeasts are used, the fermentation is slow, there is little or no use of new oak barrels; and there are no filtrations or cold stabilization. Natural wines are minimalist wines produced with as little intervention as possible.
Vegan: Vegan refers to the process of "finning" the wine. Proteins, spent yeasts and small organic matter in wines are sometimes eliminated from wines with fining agents made from animal products. Fish bladders, egg whites, milk proteins and even bull’s blood (not allowed in the US or France) are all used as fining agents. As an alternative, Bentonite, a specific type of clay, is used for clarification in vegan wines. It’s important to note that vegan or vegetarian wines may or may not be made from organic grapes.
Fair trade: Fair trade wines first came onto the market the US in 2007, following trends in coffee, tea and produce. Fair trade refers to the conditions and wages paid to employees of the winery; it guarantees employees a fair and "livable" wage for their product. Fair Trade certification of wine has been around since 2003 in Europe. The certification means that wineries met certain standards for living wages, environmental sustainability and community improvement. Oakland's TransFair USA just announced that it has begun certifying Fair Trade wines from Argentina, Chile and South Africa for the American market.
Carbon footprint: The carbon neutral label comes from a different angle: global warming. All economic activites have a carbon footprint, including wine making. Carbon neutral wineries are trying to make a contribution to the general efforts of reducing the emission of carbon dioxide. A major aspect of carbon neutrality however is outside the control of wineries. It is the transport of the wine from the winery to the consumer. For example, the carbon dioxide emission of a Bordeaux send to New York City by ship is lower than that of a California wine transported on the road.
Water footprint: A new thing is water footprint, reflecting the concern that the planet is moving into a period where water becomes more and more scarce.
For more, see:
Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines
Agricola Querciabella
From the Chianti Classico DOCG region in Tuscany, Agricola Querciabella has become known among wine lovers for taking the concept of premium wines to the extreme. Agricola Querciabella is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Second, Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.
Agricola Querciabella was founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Castiglioni, a wine connoisseur and fine wine collector from Milan, who had made a fortune in the construction business, including in Mexico. Giuseppe Castiglioni initially planted vines as a hobby, but soon set about authoring with his Camartina—the flagship wine of Querciabella - a Super-Tuscan success story.
Money was not an issue when Giuseppe Castiglioni bought a run down estate in the Greve region. His main concern was to make wines that could match with the fine French wines from Bordeaux and Bourgogne that he liked to drink so much. The shift to vegan biodynamic winemaking was engineered by his son, Sebastiano Castiglioni, who took over the management of the estate in the 1990s. Under Sebastiano Castiglioni leadership, the trend of perfection is still the utmost priority.
Only the best of everything is used, like stainless steel tanks with computer control, peristaltic pumps, 100% natural yeast and only the finest of the fine oak barrels. Quality is something that the Castiglionis do not compromise upon. Also, over time, they established an elite winemaking cadre, including winemaker Guido de Santi and famed consultant and Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis.
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Giorgio Fragiacomo from Agricola Querciabella at a Tasting at
Agricola Querciabella Portfolio
Agricola Querciabella produces four wines from its vineyards located in the Chianti Classico zone:
Pictures: Giorgio Fragiacomo and his Querciabella Wines
Batàr, a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay; Camartina, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese; Palafreno, a monovarietal Merlot; and Querciabella, a Chianti Classico DOCG made of 100% Sangiovese. From the vineyards in coastal Maremma, Querciabella produces Mongrana, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Camartina—the flagship of Querciabella—was Castiglioni’s first contribution to the Super-Tuscan movement. Camartina continues to be a defining example of the Super-Tuscan genre. While Sangiovese was the predominant varietal for the greater part of Camartina’s early career, the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has increased gradually over the years, with recent vintages favoring Cabernet.
Batàr is Querciabella’s high-level Tuscan white, inspired by the white grand cru wines of the Bourgogne. Initially, Batàr was a Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio blend. Today, it is a 50/50 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay blend. Its stylistic orientation altered with the 1998 vintage, when the use of new oak was reduced, bringing Batàr within much closer range of its Burgundian archetype.
The portfolio’s penultimate wine, Palafreno, is monovarietal Merlot, debuting with the 2000 vintage. Its vinification regimen entails a fairly lengthy maceration period of 18 days and aging in 100 percent French oak (60% new and 40% first passage) for approximately 18 months.
For more, see:
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo
schiller-wine: Related Postings
Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines
Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery – Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California
Excellency and Ecology: The Wines of Gebrueder Dr. Becker in Rheinhessen, Germany
The Millesime Bio 2010 in Montpellier, France: A Discovery of Organic and Biodynamic Wines at the one of a Kind Wine Trade Show
At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria
One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyard Wines in Washington DC
Natural Wine Bars: Terroir in San Francisco, Terroirs in London and La Cremerie in Paris
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo
FairChoice Certified Wine in Germany: Weingut Joachim Flick in the Rheingau
Judging at the ECOVIN Ecowinner 2012 Contest in Oppenheim, Germany
Blogging for Organic Wine – New Ways of Wine Experience: The Organic Wines of Oekoweingut Hubertushof at Prowein 2012 in Germany
Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery – Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California
Wine Event: President Obama and the First Lady eat at the "Green" Restaurant Nora and have a "Green" Spottswoode Wine
Benzinger Wines Served at the 2010 "Green" Annual White House Correspondents Dinner
The Natural Wines of Terroir in San Francisco
Julia Zuccardi from Familia Zuccardi in Argentina Visited the US to Introduce New Santa Julia Wines
Headwind (Gegenwind) – A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature
Italian Wine
Italy is home of some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Etruscans and Greek settlers produced wine in the country long before the Romans started developing their own vineyards. Two thousand years later, Italy is world leader in wine, accounting for about 20% of world wine production. Italians also lead the world in wine consumption by volume, 59 liters per capita, compared with 8 liters per capita in the US. Wine is grown in almost every region of the country.
Picture: The Wine Regions of Italy
Vendredi du Vin #57: Italian Natural Wines
This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by Patrick Böttcher, a manager of a pharmacy in Brussels, Belgium. The subject is: Italina Natural Wine: “Petit rappel, les italiens définissent leurs vins comme naturels s'ils sont issus de sols respectueux de la nature, et s'ils sont fait en respect avec l'artisanat historique tout en intervenant un minimum afin de conserver les marques de leur fruit et de leur terroir. S'ils ont effectivement souvent très peu de soufre embarqué, il n'y apas de règle absolue, juste du bon sens.”
My contribution is a bit broader than Italian natural wines. After a short primer of different concepts of “green” winemaking, including natural I profile “Agricola Querciabella” is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.
Patrick Böttcher’s List of Italian Natural Wine Producers
Here is Patrick Patrick Böttcher’s List of Italian Natural Wine Producers: “Bon comme on est sympa et qu'on sait que vous allez caler, voici une liste de gentils vignerons dont nous vous conseillons absolument les quilles : Luca Roagna, Belotti, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Giuseppe Mascarello, Augusto Cappellano, Bartolo Mascarello, Brovia, Trinchero, Sylvio Morando, Villa Terlina, Elisabetta Foradori, Musella, Corte Sant'Alda, Tenuta Grillo, Lo Zerbone, La Stoppa, Denavolo, Tenuta di valgiano, Podere le Boncie, Pacina, Colombaia, Fonterenza, Stella di Campalto, Montevertine, Pian dell'Orino, Paradiso di Manfredi, Fattoria di Caspri, Massa Vecchia, Podere Sanguineto, Le Coste, Emilio Pepe, Cantina Giardino, Ca del Noce, Lamoresca, COS, Occhipinti, Frank Cornelissen, Paolo Bea, et tous les inspirés de la Slovénie voisine, Gravner, Princic, Radikon, Vodopivec... et j'en oublie, forcément !!!!!”
Natural and Other Green Concepts of Winemaking
What are natural wines? Generally, the idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. Natural wines are part of a group of wines that I would call “green wines”, wines made with an ecological concept in mind. There are several different concepts of “green wines”.
Organic: Organic generally means the use of natural as opposed to chemical fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. The key is: no chemicals.
Organic wines are changing the look of vineyards, literally. Whereas vineyards of the past commanded neat rows rid of all insects, rodents and weeds, organic vineyards are now replacing costly and damaging chemical sprays with environmental partnerships. Pesticides are giving way to introducing low-growing plants between vine rows that host beneficial insects that keep the pest insects in check.
Unfortunately, there is no agreement on what organic wine making as opposed to organic wine growing means. The main issue is the use of sulfur in the fermentation process. In the US, organic winemakers are not allowed to add sulfites during winemaking; an organic wine is a wine with basically zero sulfur. In Europe, sulfites are allowed to be added during fermentation and an organic wine typically contains a modest amount of sulfur.
Biodynamic: Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. Biodynamic is an approach following the rules and ideas of Austrian philosopher-scientist Rudolph Steiner. In his 1924 lectures, he viewed the farm as an entire living ecosystem starting with the soil which is treated as a living organism and receives special applications to enhance its health.
Sustainable: Sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. Sustainable farmers may farm largely organically or biodynamically but have flexibility to choose what works best for their individual property; they may also focus on energy and water conservation, use of renewable resources and other issues.
Natural: The idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. For example, only natural yeasts are used, the fermentation is slow, there is little or no use of new oak barrels; and there are no filtrations or cold stabilization. Natural wines are minimalist wines produced with as little intervention as possible.
Vegan: Vegan refers to the process of "finning" the wine. Proteins, spent yeasts and small organic matter in wines are sometimes eliminated from wines with fining agents made from animal products. Fish bladders, egg whites, milk proteins and even bull’s blood (not allowed in the US or France) are all used as fining agents. As an alternative, Bentonite, a specific type of clay, is used for clarification in vegan wines. It’s important to note that vegan or vegetarian wines may or may not be made from organic grapes.
Fair trade: Fair trade wines first came onto the market the US in 2007, following trends in coffee, tea and produce. Fair trade refers to the conditions and wages paid to employees of the winery; it guarantees employees a fair and "livable" wage for their product. Fair Trade certification of wine has been around since 2003 in Europe. The certification means that wineries met certain standards for living wages, environmental sustainability and community improvement. Oakland's TransFair USA just announced that it has begun certifying Fair Trade wines from Argentina, Chile and South Africa for the American market.
Carbon footprint: The carbon neutral label comes from a different angle: global warming. All economic activites have a carbon footprint, including wine making. Carbon neutral wineries are trying to make a contribution to the general efforts of reducing the emission of carbon dioxide. A major aspect of carbon neutrality however is outside the control of wineries. It is the transport of the wine from the winery to the consumer. For example, the carbon dioxide emission of a Bordeaux send to New York City by ship is lower than that of a California wine transported on the road.
Water footprint: A new thing is water footprint, reflecting the concern that the planet is moving into a period where water becomes more and more scarce.
For more, see:
Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines
Agricola Querciabella
From the Chianti Classico DOCG region in Tuscany, Agricola Querciabella has become known among wine lovers for taking the concept of premium wines to the extreme. Agricola Querciabella is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Second, Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.
Agricola Querciabella was founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Castiglioni, a wine connoisseur and fine wine collector from Milan, who had made a fortune in the construction business, including in Mexico. Giuseppe Castiglioni initially planted vines as a hobby, but soon set about authoring with his Camartina—the flagship wine of Querciabella - a Super-Tuscan success story.
Money was not an issue when Giuseppe Castiglioni bought a run down estate in the Greve region. His main concern was to make wines that could match with the fine French wines from Bordeaux and Bourgogne that he liked to drink so much. The shift to vegan biodynamic winemaking was engineered by his son, Sebastiano Castiglioni, who took over the management of the estate in the 1990s. Under Sebastiano Castiglioni leadership, the trend of perfection is still the utmost priority.
Only the best of everything is used, like stainless steel tanks with computer control, peristaltic pumps, 100% natural yeast and only the finest of the fine oak barrels. Quality is something that the Castiglionis do not compromise upon. Also, over time, they established an elite winemaking cadre, including winemaker Guido de Santi and famed consultant and Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis.
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Giorgio Fragiacomo from Agricola Querciabella at a Tasting at
Agricola Querciabella Portfolio
Agricola Querciabella produces four wines from its vineyards located in the Chianti Classico zone:
Pictures: Giorgio Fragiacomo and his Querciabella Wines
Batàr, a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay; Camartina, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese; Palafreno, a monovarietal Merlot; and Querciabella, a Chianti Classico DOCG made of 100% Sangiovese. From the vineyards in coastal Maremma, Querciabella produces Mongrana, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Camartina—the flagship of Querciabella—was Castiglioni’s first contribution to the Super-Tuscan movement. Camartina continues to be a defining example of the Super-Tuscan genre. While Sangiovese was the predominant varietal for the greater part of Camartina’s early career, the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has increased gradually over the years, with recent vintages favoring Cabernet.
Batàr is Querciabella’s high-level Tuscan white, inspired by the white grand cru wines of the Bourgogne. Initially, Batàr was a Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio blend. Today, it is a 50/50 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay blend. Its stylistic orientation altered with the 1998 vintage, when the use of new oak was reduced, bringing Batàr within much closer range of its Burgundian archetype.
The portfolio’s penultimate wine, Palafreno, is monovarietal Merlot, debuting with the 2000 vintage. Its vinification regimen entails a fairly lengthy maceration period of 18 days and aging in 100 percent French oak (60% new and 40% first passage) for approximately 18 months.
For more, see:
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo
schiller-wine: Related Postings
Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines
Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery – Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California
Excellency and Ecology: The Wines of Gebrueder Dr. Becker in Rheinhessen, Germany
The Millesime Bio 2010 in Montpellier, France: A Discovery of Organic and Biodynamic Wines at the one of a Kind Wine Trade Show
At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria
One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyard Wines in Washington DC
Natural Wine Bars: Terroir in San Francisco, Terroirs in London and La Cremerie in Paris
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo
FairChoice Certified Wine in Germany: Weingut Joachim Flick in the Rheingau
Judging at the ECOVIN Ecowinner 2012 Contest in Oppenheim, Germany
Blogging for Organic Wine – New Ways of Wine Experience: The Organic Wines of Oekoweingut Hubertushof at Prowein 2012 in Germany
Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery – Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California
Wine Event: President Obama and the First Lady eat at the "Green" Restaurant Nora and have a "Green" Spottswoode Wine
Benzinger Wines Served at the 2010 "Green" Annual White House Correspondents Dinner
The Natural Wines of Terroir in San Francisco
Julia Zuccardi from Familia Zuccardi in Argentina Visited the US to Introduce New Santa Julia Wines
Headwind (Gegenwind) – A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature
Labels:
biodynamic wine,
Green wine,
Italy,
natural wine,
Vendredis du Vin
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