Meeting a Rhone Ranger and Tasting His Wines - Sherman Thacher from Paso Robles in California

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Rhone Ranger Sherman Thacher

The Rhone Rangers is a group of winemakers in the US that dedicate themselves to the grapes whose ancestral home is in France's Rhone Valley. I was happy to meet one of them – Sherman Thacher from Thacher Vineyards in Paso Robles, California – recently at Screwtop Wine Bar in Virginia.

WeinRallye #44

This posting is part of WeinRallye #44, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "The Rhone – the River, the Wines, the Winemakers". Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany. The first wine rally took place in 2007. Thomas Lippert is the author of the wine blog Winzerblog. This month's wine rally is organized by Christoph Raffelt, author of orginalverkorkt.

The Rhone Rangers

The Rhone Rangers are a group of winemakers who promote the use of grape varieties from the Rhône Valley in the US. They are mostly based in the Central Coast of California, but also in other parts of the US. In particular, the Rhone Rangers are considered a catalyst in making Syrah more prevalent on the Californian wine landscape. In the 1980s, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard and Bob Lindquist of Qupé Wine Cellars began popularizing the marketing of the Rhône varietals.

The French government recognizes 22 varieties in the various appellations that comprise this large and diverse wine-growing region. Rhone Appellations, including Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Condrieu, Chateuneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Bandol and Cotes du Rhone each choose a different subset from the collection of these 22 grapes.

Picture: Screwtop's Owner Wendy Buckley with Sherman Thacher

The most common red Rhone varietals are Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre, with Syrah predominant in the Northern Rhone and Grenache in the Southern Rhone. Other relatively common red grapes include Cinsault, Carignan, and Petite Sirah. The Rhone Rangers have also adopted Zinfandel as a "cousin" grape. The principal white Rhone varietals are Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, each found throughout the Rhone Valley, with Grenache Blanc a widely planted but less well known contributor in the Southern Rhone.

Paso Robles

Thacher Vineyards is in the Paso Robles American Viticulture Area (AVA), which is located midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles on California’s central coast. More than 26,000 acres are planted to vineyards that provide fruit for Paso Robles wineries and others throughout the state. Today there are more than 170 wineries.

Thacher Winery

Since 2004, the Thacher Winery - with the grasshopper label - has been hand-crafting wines from vineyards found on the Westside of Paso Robles and in Southern Monterey County. It is a boutique winery that specializes on Rhone blends and Zinfandels. Currently, Thacher Winery produces 1800 cases.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Sherman Thacher

Thacher Winery is a family operation of Sherman Thacher and his wife Michelle. Sherman started as a brewer and became an award winning brewmaster; but he is now a very successful winemaker. “I may do something with apples and produce hard cider in the future” said Sherman. As a big fan of applewine from Frankfurt am Main, Germany, I am looking forward to this.

Sherman is buying all the fruit and “that will remain so” he said. He is no intentions of growing vine. This dichotomy between vine growing and wine making is very common in the US, but had to comprehend from an European perspective. “I will always buy – it is like buying different spices” said Sherman.

“I like to pick at 24.5% Brix, as most people in the region do” said Sherman. This equivalent to 103.3 degree Oechsle, and according to the German classification at the Auslese level.

The Wines We Tasted

Here are the wines we tasted, including winemaker comments.

Picture: The Thacher wines we tasted

2009 VIOGNIER

100% Viognier from Hastings Ranch Vineyard, Paso Robles

This Rhone varietal is crisp with a nose of green apple and flavors of grilled pineapple. A very refreshing wine and great with anything spicy. This wine is clear and bright, with a medium lemon core fading to a pale lemon-gold rim. Legs are present, and are fast and thin. On the nose, this wine is clean, with medium plus intense developing aromas. These include candied lemon peel, jasmine perfume, ripe peach, rosehips, incense, tangerine zest, and banana candy. Very fresh and complex. On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium plus intense rich body, medium integrated alcohol, medium supporting acid and medium plus intense flavors. These include ripe yellow peach, peach skin, lemon drops, rosehips, baking spice, heavy cream, banana, pineapple and other tropical fruits. The finish is long with lasting richness attributable to a balance between a viscous body and a depth of ripe fruit. This wine is drinking wonderfully right now, and will hold for another 1-2 years before flavors mute.

2006 ZINFANDEL

100% Zinfandel from two westside vineyards; 85% Je T’aime Vineyard and 15% Hastings Ranch Vineyard.

This wine is clear, with a medium intense ruby core, fading to a pale ruby edge and water-white rim. Legs are medium and fast to form with faint saturation of color. On the nose, this wine is clean and developing. Aromas are complex and medium plus in intensity. They include Bing cherry, cranberry,dried cranberry, red currant, toffee, smoke, hibiscus tea, leather and oak spice.

On the palate, this wine is dry. It has medium intense structural tannin, medium silky body, medium plus spicy alcohol and medium acid.The flavors are medium plus intense, and include cherry cola, dried cranberries, baking spice, cedar, tobacco, baked berry crisp, molasses and vanilla. The finish is long, and has lasting ripe berry flavors balanced by piquant alcohol and tannin. This wine is ready to drink, and will age for 3-4 years before becoming fully developed.

2007 SYRAH

100% Syrah from Coast View Vineyard, Monterey County

This wine is clear and bright, with a deeply intense shiny purple core, fading to a medium purple rim. Legs are slow and sheeting, with saturated purple color. On the nose, this wine is clean and developing, with medium plus intense aromas of ripe black cherries, French roast coffee beans, vanilla, cedar, plum sauce, cocoa nibs, tar and cola. On the palate this wine is dry, with medium plus firm tannin, medium plus spicy alcohol, medium plus filling body, and medium acid. Flavors are medium plus intense, and include ripe black cherries, vanilla extract, cedar, roasted coffee, black huckleberries, cola, cinnamon and Chinese five-spice. The finish is very long and supported. Firm tannins carry throughout, with dense chocolate and black fruit flavors. Acid to balance. Outstanding. This wine is ready to drink, but has enough structure, depth and complexity of elements to last 5-7 more years.

2007 CONTROLLED CHAOS

42% Zinfandel, 37% Mouvedre and 21% Grenache

All three varietals picked from westside Paso Robles vineyards. This wine is clear and bright, with a medium plus intense ruby core fading to a pale ruby rim. On the nose this wine is clean and developing, with medium plus intense unctuous aromas of red and black plums, black cherry, strawberry jam, crushed black pepper, cedar, pan grille, roast meat and vanilla. Very complex.

On the palate, this wine is dry, with a medium plus body, spicy alcohol, generous chalky tannin, and acid to balance. The flavors are very intense, showcasing black cherry, black berry, strawberry jam, crushed peppercorn, cassis, chalk, black morel mushrooms, grilled meat and warm oak. The finish is long, with complex flavors balanced by lingering firm and integrated tannin.

This wine is ready to drink, but would benefit from 1-2 years in bottle, or a splash decant. It will hold for 4-6 years, maintaining its fruit and tannin throughout. Overall, an outstanding wine.

2008 TRIUMVIRATE RESERVE ZINFANDEL

100% Zinfandel from the best of three west side vineyards; Bailey Ranch, Je T'aime Vineyard & Will's Hills Vineyard

This wine is clear and bright, with a deep garnet core and water white rim. Legs are saturated with color and are thick and slow to develop. On the nose, this wine is clean and developing, with intense aromas of blackberry, raspberry, cherry jam, dried plums, currants, sweet spice, toast, licorice and vanilla cream. On the palate, this wine is dry, with a medium plus rich body, medium plus integrated alcohol, medium acid, and medium plus flavors of blackberry pie filling, framboise, strawberry, Flor de Jamaica, sweet oak, and cedar. The finish is long and delicious, characterized by lingering fine tannin and ripe berry and wood flavors.

This wine is ready to drink, but becomes much more generous after decant. It will hold for 4-6 years, aging on structured tannin and an abundance of ripe fruit.

2008 GSM Central Coast

42% Grenache, 38% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre



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The California Pinot Noir Pioneer Walter Schug: From the Rheingau in Germany to Sonoma County in California

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Meeting Bill Holloran from Oregon and Tasting His Holloran and Stafford Hill Wines

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Bill Holloran

Washington DC native and Georgetown alumnus Bill Holloran was back in Washington DC and at MacArthur Beverages to show his latest releases of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from his vineyards in Oregon.

Oregon

Holloran Vineyard Wines is in the Willamette Valley, were about two-thirds of Oregon’s wineries and vineyards are. Buffered from Pacific storms on the west by the Coast Range, the valley follows the Willamette River north to south for more than a hundred miles from the Columbia River near Portland to just south of Eugene. But Oregon is not only about Willamette Valley. Oregon’s vineyards span the whole State, rising up and falling over the rolling hills and gentle valleys of more than 12,000 acres (4,858 hectares) of wine grapes. Oregon’s major wine regions are the Willamette Valley, Rogue Valley, Umpqua Valley, and the Columbia Gorge. Some regions straddle the border between Oregon and the States of Washington and Idaho.

Picture: The wine regions of Oregon

Wine was made in Oregon in the 19th century already, when Italian and Swiss immigrants planted wine grapes and started bottling wine. Oregon's wine industry was suppressed during Prohibition. It wasn’t until1961, when Richard Sommer set up shop in southern Oregon and planted Riesling, that the modern Oregon wine industry was borne. Other pioneers include David Adelsheim, Dick Ponzi and Bill Sokol-Blosser. Then the French also came with Domaine Drouhin bringing European sophistication to Oregon. In the past 40 years, Oregon has become one of the country’s top three wine States, with 350 wineries producing an average of 5,000 cases each a year. Most of it is Pinot Noir, but there’s also Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and modest amounts of Riesling and Merlot.

Oregon produces wine on a much smaller scale than its southern neighbor California. Oregon's biggest producer ships only 125,000 cases per year and most produce under 35,000 cases. The State features many small wineries which produce less than 5,000 cases per year. With 3,000 to 4,000 cases per year, Bill Holloran Vineyards is one of the smaller wineries. In contrast, E & J Gallo Winery, the US’ largest winery, produces about 70 million cases annually. The majority of wineries in Oregon operate their own vineyards, although some purchase grapes on the market.

The Wines of Bill Holloran

Bill Holloran's story is: technology executive moves to Oregon to raise his family, starts to dabble in wine, hires one of the best young winemakers in Oregon (Jay Somers), buys a famous vineyard (Le Pavillon), and starts turning out classic Willamette Valley wines at high quality.

Bill moved to Oregon in 1999. The Holloran label is now recognized as one of the top producers in Oregon. Bill also has a second label called Stafford Hill. I had meet Bill last year at Cecile’s in McLean, Virginia and wrote about it here.

The winery is located at the northern end of the Willamette Valley, just south of Portland at 2636 SW Schaeffer Road in West Linn, Oregon.

Pictures: Bill Holloran

Until recently, Bill Holloran's winemaker was Jay Somers, better known for his culty J. Christopher label and his co-operation with the German wine giant Ernst Loosen. Bill Holloran and Jay Somers partnered in 1999 and they built the small winery on Holloran's farm. In return for making Holloran's wines, Jay used the facility to make his own J. Christopher label, which he had launched in 1996. Recently, Jay Somers has teamed up with Ernst Loosen, the owner of Weingut Dr. Loosen in the Mosel wine region in Germany. Ernst Loosen makes wine in Germany and in the US. As for the US, first, he makes the Eroica Riesling, in collaboration with Chateau Ste. Michelle, the huge Washington State winemaker. Second, he makes 2 Pinot Noirs in Oregon with Jay Somers – Two Worlds, an entry level wine, and Appassionata, an ultra-premium wine. Though Jay Somers is very busy now with Ernst Loosen, he is still consulting with Holloran and Stafford Hill Wines, Bill Holloran said.

The Vineyards

(1)The Le Pavillon vineyard is located in the Dundee Hills AVA and is over 35 years old. The soil type is Jory, an ancient volcanic soil. The producing blocks are Pinot Noir, Riesling and Chardonnay. Farmed organically since 1999, biodynamically since 2005. (2) The La Chenaie vineyard is located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Chardonnay and Riesling are planted on south, east, and southwest-facing slopes. Farmed organically. (3) The estate Vineyard Meute de Chiens has 6 different clones of Pinot Noir. Farmed organically.

Acreage Planted: 13.6 acres; varieties planted: Pinot Noir - 7.5 acres, Riesling - 3.1 acres, Tempranillo -3.0 acres.

The Labels

The top cuvees are offered under the Holloran label and provide flavors and aromas that are representative of their source vineyard or AVA. The Stafford Hill line is the second label. Bill Holloran developed the Stafford Hill label to feature pure, ready-to-drink wines sourced from his own and from other vineyards up and down Oregon's Willamette Valley. Bill Holloran currently produces 3000 to 4000 cases annually.

What Bill Poured

2008 La Chenaie - Pinot Noir Holloran $29.99

Bill Holloran's La Chenaie is always a Oregon classic – spicy and redolent of strawberry and raspberry fruit. There’s plenty of concentration and depth, but also a silky texture and sense of transparency that I like so much in Oregon Pinot Noir.

Picture: The wines Bill poured

Amity Hills - Chardonnay Stafford Hill $18.99

Perfectly ripe Chardonnay fruit receives a cool fermentation in stainless steel and then rests briefly on the lees before going directly into bottle - no wood barrels involved! The result is a bright, zippy wine loaded with green apple and laced with fine minerality and a touch of citrus.

2008 Amity Hills - Pinot Noir Stafford Hill $19.99

All the fruit was sourced from Bill Holloran's La Chenaie Vineyard located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, located 20 miles south of the Dundee Hills. In addition to Pinot Noir, Bill has planted Tempranillo, Chardonnay and Riesling on its south, east, and southwest-facing slopes. A typical Oregon Pinot Noir.


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Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Winemaker Yolanda Viadero from Valduero Vineyards in Ribera del Duero and in Toro, Spain, at Twisted Vines on Columbia Pike in Arlington, Virginia.

Yolanda Viadero was in town and I had the opportunity to meet her and taste her Bodegas Valduero wines at Twisted Wines on Columbia Pike in Arlington, Virginia.

Wine Producer Spain

Located on the Iberian Peninsula, Spain has over 1 million hectares of vineyard land planted. It is with Italy and France in the leading trio of wine producing nations in the world. Wine making in Spain began many centuries ago, even long before the Romans came. Spain’s reputation entering the 21st century was that of a serious wine producing country that could compete with other producers in the world wine market.

Spanish wines are classified according a five-tier system, which, starting from the bottom, comprises: (1) Vino de Mesa (VdM - Table wine). (2) Vinos de la Tierra (VdlT - Similar to France's vin de pays system). (3) Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD - similar to France's Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure (VDQS) system). (4) Denominación de Origen (DO - This level is for the mainstream quality wine regions. Nearly two thirds of the total vineyard area in Spain is within the boundaries a DO region). (5) Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa - A step above DO level, given to only 3 regions so far: Rioja in 1991, Priorat in 2003, and Ribera del Duero in 2008).

Picture: The Wine Regions of Spain

The four most common aging designations on Spanish wine labels are Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. (1) Joven are easy-drinking wines with little or new barrel or bottle aging. (2) Crianza red wines are aged for 2 years with at least 6 months in oak.(3) Reserva red wines are aged for at least 3 years with at least 1 year in oak. (4) Gran Reserva wines typically appear in above average vintages with the red wines requiring at least 5 years aging, 18 months of which in oak.

Major Spanish wine regions include the 3 DOCa regions Rioja, the Priorat and Ribera del Duero; Jerez, the home of the fortified wine Sherry; Rías Baixas in the northwest region of Galicia that is known for its white wines made from Albariño and Catalonia which is the home of the sparkling wine Cava.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Washington DC Star Photographer and Wine Lover Jake McGuire

The country has an abundance of native grape varieties, with over 600 varieties planted throughout Spain though 80 percent of the country's wine production is from only 20 grapes. Tempranillo is the second most widely planted grape and is an important grape in the Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Penedès regions. The most widely planted grape is the white wine grape Airén, served as the base for Spanish brandy.

Sherry is a fortified wine produced in southern Spain. It can either be sweet or dry, unlike Port. Port wine is made sweet by adding alcohol to the fermenting must so the fermentation stops and the sugar of the grapes remains in the wine. What you get is a wine with lots of alcohol and remaining sweetness in the wine. Sherry, on the other hand, is made by letting the fermentation go its full way so that a dry wine emerges. Then, alcohol is added to boost the alcohol level. If the winemaker stops there, you get a dry Sherry. If he also adds sterilized juice, you get a sweet Sherry. Thus, Sherry can be sweet or dry.

Cava is a Spanish sparkling wine made in the traditional method of the Champagne. Mostly, white grape varieties like Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel•lo are used for Cava, though some producers are experimenting with the use of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

D.O. Ribera del Duero and D.O. Toro

Bodegas Valduero makes wine in 2 regions, which are about 100 km apart from each other - the Ribera del Duero and the Toro regions. Ribera del Duero is one of the wine-producing regions along the Duero river. The region is characterized by a largely flat, rocky terrain. Ribera del Duero is home to the Vega Sicilia - Spain's perhaps most notable winery - and one of the 3 wine regions in Spain that have achieved DOCa status, with Rioja and Priorat. This is a big change compared with the early eighties, when Ribera del Duero was relatively unknown outside of Spain (and Rioja was still commanding all the attention). The main grape variety in Ribera del Duero is Tempranillo, referred to locally as Tinto Fino. Toro is formed by 17 villages, west of Ribera del Duero, with 8000 hectares under vines. Toro has become famous for big blockbuster reds. Many see Toro as Spain’s new value-for-money region.

Bodegas Valduero in Ribera del Duero

The history of Bodegas Valduero starts in 1984, when the Garcia Viadero family established a winery in the Ribera del Duero region. “Before 1984, we had a little wine cellar to make wine for us and some relatives. When I finished university, my father one day suggested to establish a real winery” Yolanda said. It was one of the first wineries in Ribera del Duero.

Pictures: Winemaker Yolanda Viadero from Valduero Vineyards in Ribera del Duero and in Toro, Spain, at Twisted Vines

Bodegas Valduero in Ribera del Duero produces premium wines - Crianzas, Reservas and Gran Reservas – on a vineyard area totaling 200 hectares. All the wines are single varietal – Tempranillo – wines. The Crianza - aged for 14 months in oak and more than a year in bottle - is produced every year. The Reserva is only produced in better years; the wine rests for 20 months in oak and 16 more in bottle before being released. In the better years and from the oldest vineyards (30 years old) around 20,000 liters of Reserva Premium is produced, a wine with long ageing in new oak – 26 months. Finally, the top wines is the Gran Reserva from the best grapes and in the best vintages, with 42 months aged in oak and almost the same time in bottle.

Winemaking Philosophy

The main part of the vineyard area is located at an altitude of between 800 and 900 meters above sea level. “At that altitude” said Yolanda “ the temperature variations between day and night are large and such stress to the vine produces fruit which takes a little longer to ripen”. The vines (Tempranillo) are trained (although they may appear hacked) into low bushes. The vineyard age ranges from 12 to over 40 years and the vines are very low yielding. The soil is very poor and mainly composed of limestone and clay with some sandy spots. “We use traditional cultivation techniques and only natural, organic fertilizer. We do not irrigate and our yields are between 1.500kg/hectare and 4.700kg/hectares. The fruit is harvested by hand into small crates (14 kg baskets) to ensure that the berries do not get squashed en route to the winery.” said Yolanda.

A new winery was constructed in 2000, made up of three long tunnels buried into the side of a hill. The whole winery has a natural, constant temperature of 12ºc, due to the fact that it is buried under ground. “We use a combination of oak barrels made from American, French and East European oak. The barrels are all 225 liter and are replaced every four years” said Yolanda.

Bodegas Valduero in D.O. Toro

A bit more than 10 years after establishing Bodegas Valduero in Ribera del Duero, the Viadero family established another winery, about 100 km away, in the Toro region. Only one grape variety is grown, the indigenous Tinto de Toro (similar to Tempranillo) on 50 hectares of vineyard land. “In contrast to Ribera del Duero, in Toro we decided to develop only two wines, both wines that are easier to drink wines than those from Ribera del Duero. So, the two portfolios complement each other.” said Yolanda.

Pictures: Winemaker Yolanda Viadero from Valduero Vineyards in Ribera del Duero and in Toro, Spain, at Twisted Vines

Val Viadero Joven: “100% Tinta de Toro. We pick the grapes in 12 kg cases and ferment them at 23ºC and 28ºC, followed by maceration during 15 days where it gets all its potential. It is stabilized in the bottle for a year” said Yolanda.

Val Viadero Roble: “In addition, this wine also benefits from 6 months of some barrel aging” said Yolanda.

Yolanda Garcia Viadero

From the very beginning, Gregorio García Álvarez, a native of the region, put his two daughters, Yolanda and Carolina García Viadero, in charge of the winery. Yolanda Garcia Viadero is a trained Agricultural Engineer and has an MSc in Viticulture and Oenology. She has been the winemaker for all these years. “Everything begins with the land” Yolanda said “our land is well-chosen to begin with, tenderly cultivated, and the grapes are gently harvested cluster by cluster at optimum ripeness at the end of the growing season.” Her sister Carolina’s is the head of Valduero’s sales. Right from the beginning she has placed a special emphasis on export. Almost half of the production is exported. “We are now trying to open up the American market to fine Spanish wines” said Yolanda.

What Yolanda Viadero Poured

Val Viadero Joven 2007

Region: Toro D.O.
Variety: 100% Tinta de Toro
Plantation density: 2.600 plants / Ha
Yields: 4500-5000kg from selected parcels
Vineyard age: 5 years
Irrigation: No
Fertilization: Lamb manure
Pruning: Low bush vine
Grape harvest: First week of October
Picking: By hand in 14kg boxes
Bottle aging: 12 months
Tasting notes: Intense strawberry color, brilliant, full of deep and complex aromas are part of the innate characteristics of this wine. At the palate, fruity flavors, liquorices tones, well structured and concentrated. Long and clear.

Val Viadero Roble 2007

Region: Toro D.O.
Variety: 100% Tinta de Toro
Plantation density: 2.600 plants / Ha
Yields: 4500-5000kg from selected parcels
Vineyard age: 15 years
Irrigation: No
Fertilization: Lamb manure
Pruning: Low bush vine
Grape harvest: First week of October
Picking: By hand in 14kg boxes
Barrel ageing: 6months in oak
Bottle ageing: 12 months
Tasting notes: Ruby color. Persistent and fine aroma that comes from its ageing in toasted oak barrels, highlighting mint aromas, liquorice and toasted coffee. To the palate is a perfectly balanced wine.

Valduero Crianza 2007

Region: Ribera del Duero D.O.
Variety: 100% Tinto Fino
Plantation density: 2.600 plants / Ha
Yields: 4500-5000kg
Vineyard age: 12 years
Irrigation: No
Fertilization: Lamb manure
Pruning: Low bush vine
Grape harvest: First week of October
Picking: By hand in 14kg boxes
Aging in barrique: 15 months in barriques from 2 different origins.
Bottle ageing: 12 months
Tasting Notes: Deep ruby color, very live. Fruity aromas balanced with spiciness and balsamic tones. In the mouth it is velvety, well structured with a good after taste.

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Meeting Up-and-coming Winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques from the Douro Area in Portugal at Screwtop Winebar in Clarendon, Virginia

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques from Portugal

Screwtop Winebar in Clarendon, Virginia, has a very nice communal table for about 12 people and regularly organizes winemaker dinners at this table. One of the recent guests was up-and-coming winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques from the Conceito Estates in the Douro area in Portugal.

Wine Producer Portugal

Portugal is a wine producer with a long history that is mainly known for its Port wines and the Mateus label. With 250.000 hectares of vineyard area, it is the 7th largest wine producer in the world, compared with the US with 400.000 hectares. Portugal possesses a large array of native varietals, many of them completely unknown in the rest of the world.

Vinho Verde, in the northwestern corner of the country, is the only region of Portugal where white wine dominates. Douro is the region where Port wine is produced, but increasingly also red table wine. Continuing south of the Douro into north-central Portugal is the Dao region, known for big, full bodied reds.
In the terms of classification, wines from the top regions are labeled DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada). Below that are the categories of Indicação de Proveniência Regulamentada (IPR, Indication of Regulated Provenance), regional wine - Vinho Regional Carries and table wines - Vinho de Mesa.

Picture: The Wine Regions of Portugal

Port is always sweet, while Sherry - produced in Spain - can either be sweet or dry. This is so, because Port wine is made by adding brandy to the fermenting must, causing the fermentation to stop and leaving the remaining grape sugar in the wine. Sherry, on the other hand, is made by letting the fermentation go its full way so that a dry wine emerges. Then, alcohol is added to boost the alcohol level. If the winemaker stops there, you get a dry Sherry. If he or she also adds sterilized juice, you get a sweet Sherry. Thus, Sherry can be sweet or dry, while Port is always sweet.

There are two main Port styles: (1) Bottle matured Ports spend a relatively short time in the barrel and mature in the bottle for many years. These are the wines that have made Port one of the greatest wines of the world. Wines that have matured in sealed glass bottles, with no exposure to air, have experienced what is known as "reductive" aging. This process leads to the wine losing its color very slowly and produces a wine which is smoother on the palate and less tannic. Vintage port is bottle matured and made entirely from the grapes of a declared vintage year. (2) Barrel matured Ports experience what is known as "oxidative" aging, as the barrels allow some exposure to oxygen. Wood matured Ports are bottled when ready for drinking and are not intended for further ageing. Aged Tawnies (10, 20, 30 and 40 years old) are a blend of Ports aged in cask, using the Solera process, exposing them to gradual oxidation and evaporation. During this time they lose their deep, youthful ruby color and become pale and eventually “tawny".

Douro DOC

While the Douro region is associated primarily with Port wine production, it produces just as much table wine as it does fortified wine. While table wine has always been produced in the region, for a long time little of it was seen outside the region itself. A few Douro wines showed up on the international market from the 1970s, but it was not until the 1990s when a large number of Douro wines made their appearance.

Today, the real action in the Douro valley is with dry table wines made from the vast array of grapes unique to the Douro valley. Portugal’s Douro valley increasingly delivers robust but classy dry wines that are perfect foils for rich food and cool nights.

Conceito

The young estate of Conceito was founded by winemaker Rita Ferreira, her husband and her mother Carla Costa Ferreira just a few years ago. The Ferreira family has been grape growing for many years, but the direction of the family operation changed dramatically, when Carla Costa Ferreira and her daughter Rita took over. Before Rita came on board, the family had always grown wines, but sold in bulk to Port producers. This all changed when Rita got her degree in enology. The re-structuring of the business was completed in 2005, with the new winery, now under the aegis of oenologist Rita Ferreira Marques.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques from Portugal

The grapes are all estate-grown and come from 4 different estates, all in the Teja river valley, which has climatic conditions a little cooler than the rest of the Douro area: Quinta da Veiga (20 hectares), Quinta do Chão-do-Pereiro (20 hectares), Quinta do Cabido (23 hectares) and a 10 hectare vineyard at the top of the valley where there’s some granite, used solely for whites. The Teja is a tributary to the Douro River. The Teja valley is not only cooler than the rest of the Douro area, but the temperature swings also larger. As a result, the maturation of the grapes is slower, translating into fresher and less alcoholic wines.

Conceito is very export oriented and is increasingly catching the attention of international wine critics.

Rita Ferreira Marques

Rita initially studied engineering, but then changed course with a view of making wine from the grapes in the vineyards of her family. After her studies she traveled quite a bit around the globe and did internships in Douro, Bordeaux, California, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Back in Portugal, her first wine she released was a 2005 vintage.

She still is traveling. Last year, he spent 6 weeks in New Zealand to make a Sauvignon Blanc to be released under the name Conceito. She also has an on-going project in South Africa. In fact, when I met her at Screwtop Wine Bar, she was just coming from South Africa.

What Wendy Poured

Screwtop Owner Wendy Buckley poured 5 wines, two white wines, two red wines and a Port.

Picture: Owner Wendy Buckley, Importer Jonas Gustafsson and Winemaker/Owner Rita Ferreira from Conceito Winery in the Douro Valley in Portugal.

“As with almost all Douro properties, our wines are a mixture of different traditional grape varieties” said Rita. “Our vines are cultivated using only traditional methods and we do not use any herbicides. When fertilizer is required, we use vegetable compost. All of the work in the vineyard -pruning, de-shooting, weeding, de-leafing - is performed by hand” she added.

The current exchange rates are Euro 1 = US$ 1.46 = BP 0.88.

2009 Conceito Contraste Branco

D.O.C. Douro Region Douro/ V.N. de Foz Côa

Soil: Granite

Grape varieties: Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Códega and Viosinho

Vinification without de-stemming; aged in French oak barrels (25%) and 75% in tanks for 6 months

Alcohol content 13% vol, Sugar less than 2 g/l, PH 3,12, Acidity 6,1 g/l

Production 10.000 bottles

Retail: $21.50

2008 Conceit Branco

D.O.C. Douro Region Douro/ V.N. de Foz Côa

Soil: Granite

Made from a very old, pre-phylloxera vineyard in a small granite plateau (500 m above seal level) in the parish of Freixo de Numão, 15 km to the west of Foz Côa.
Grape varieties: Códega (40%), Rabigato (40%) and 20% other traditional white grapes, mainly Viosinho and Gouveio.

Vinification without de-stemming. Fermented and aged in barrels (30% new) and regular batônnage.

Alcohol content 13% vol. Sugar less than 2 g/L PH 3,1 Acidity 6 g/L

Retail: $49.99

Picture: The Conceite Wines We Tasted

2008 Conceite Contraste Tinto

Classification D.O.C. Douro Region Douro/ V.N. de Foz Côa

Soil: Schist

Grape varieties: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Sousão
70% in French oak barrels

Alcohol content 14% vol. Sugar less than 2 g/l PH 3,5 Acidity 5,2 g/l

Production 50.000 bottles

Retail: $21.99

2007 Conceite Tinto

Classification D.O.C. Douro Region Douro/ V.N. de Foz Côa

Soil: Schistose.

Made with the grapes of old (50 years) vines from the Quinta do Cabido, in an inhospitable “hook” formed by the Teja River, in the parish of Numão. There, an unusual land mass of schist causes the water to change course before it flows down towards the Douro River, and the riverbank in that place forms a perfect natural amphitheatre facing south.

Grape varieties: Mixture of traditional grape varieties (more than 15 grape varieties)

50% new French oak barrels.

Alcohol content 14% vol. Sugar Less than 2 g/l PH 3.55 Acidity 5.8 g/l

Production 10.000 bottles

Retail: $49.99

2007 Vintage Port

D.O.C. Douro Region Douro/ V.N. de Foz Côa Soil Schistose.

Made with grapes from the Quinta do Cabido, a family property that is so-named because of its location, in an inhospitable “hook” formed by the Teja creek, plus 10% Touriga Nacional grapes from an old vineyard in the neighboring Quinta do Chão do Pereiro, the first and oldest property of the family. Both are located in the parish of Numão, in a mountainous area around 300m- 400m above sea level that descends to Vesúvio, on the southern bank of the Douro.

Grape varieties: Mixture of traditional grape varieties.

Traditional Port vinification, with no de-stemming and foot-treading in granite lagares. Two-day pre-fermentation maceration and three-day fermentation. Addition of grape spirit to the tank, followed by brief maceration and casking.

Alcohol content 19,5% vol. PH 3.6 Baumé 3.4

Production 5.000 bottles

Retail: $ 59.99




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Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2011

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Billy Wagner, Falstaff Deutschland 2011 Sommelier of the Year, in Hamburg,Germany

For the first time, the Falstaff Trophies Deutschland have been awarded. The wine/food/travel journal Falstaff has been around for a number of years, issued in Vienna, Austria, and reporting about wine, food and travel from an Austrian perspective, for Austria-based readers. About a year ago, Falstaff expanded into the German wine and food scene and started to issue a German version of Falstaff in addition to the well established Austrian version. As part of its expansion, Falstaff has now created the annual Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies, to be awarded to 5 German wine personalities. The first year’s winners are the following.

Horst Sauer is Winemaker of the Year

Horst Sauer, from Franken, is the Falstaff Winemaker of the Year. Weingtu Horst Sauer lies in Escherndorf, a wine village surrounded by the Main river. The lusciously sweet specialties of Horst Sauer have long enjoyed a sterling reputation. But Weingut Sauer also produces tremendous dry wines, not only from Silvaner, but also from Riesling. Horst Sauer is now assisted by his daughter Sandra.

Picture: Horst Sauer in Berlin

The Runners-up were Georg Prinz zur Lippe and Peter Barth

The runners up were Georg Prinz zur Lippe von Schloss Proschwitz in Sachsen and Peter Barth, Domänenweingut Schloss Schönborn in the Rheingau.

Sachsen, a small wine region in the former East Germany, does not yet play in the first league, but it is catching up. I am very pleased about this development as I was born in the capital of the State of Sachsen, Dresden. Georg Prince zur Lippe, who repurchased Weingut Schloss Proschwitz after reunification, produces increasingly fascinating wines. I met Georg Prince zur Lippe recently in Berlin at the occasion of the 100th Anniversary of the VDP.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Georg Prince zur Lippe in Berlin

Domaenenweingut Schloss Schoenborn is one of the leading estates in the Rheingau, which continues to produce exceptional wines. Peter Barth is the head winemaker of Domaenenweingut Schloss Schoenborn. I met him recently at the 1. International Riesling Symposium, where I was sitting next to him during one of the tastings and enjoyed very much the conversation about the wines with him.

Stephan Attmann is Newcomer of the Year

Stephan Attmann manages Weingut Von Winning in the Pfalz – previously Dr. Deinhard. He is very much into organic and biodynamic winemaking. The Grosse Gewächs Riesling wines of the year 2009 were highly rated.

The Runners-up were Christian Bamberger and Felix Peters

The runners-up were Christian Bamberger of Weingut Bamberger in Bad Sobernheim (Nahe) und Felix Peters of Weingut St. Antony in Nierstein in Rheinhessen. I have written about the wines of Felix Peters and other wines of the Red Slope in Rheinhessen here.

Billy Wagner is Sommelier of the Year

Whenever I am in Berlin, I try to stop at the Rutz Weinbar in the Chaussee Strasse 8 in Berlin-Mitte and enjoy their outstanding wines. Rutz Weinbar is not only a top wine bar—it is also a top restaurant and a top wine store, but I go their for the wine bar.

Billy Wagner has been working Weinbar Rutz in Berlin since 2007. The last time, I was there was for 10th Bottle Party in 2010. The party started 30 minutes before midnight and at midnight, Rutz Weinbar was packed. The entrance fee was Euro 19 or alternatively a bottle of a Grosses/Erstes Gewaechs wine. I have written about the 10th Bottle Party here.

Picture: Billy Wagner at the 10th Bottle Party in 2010

The Runners-up were Lidwina Weh and Stephane Gass

The runners-up were Lidwina Weh, Louis C. Jacob Hotel, Hamburg, and Stephane Gass, Schwarzwaldstube in Baiersbronn. I recently met Stephane Gass at the 1. International Riesling Symposium at Schloss Rheinhartshausen in the Rheingau, where he led a tasting of Rieslings with a touch of sweetness. These were all delicious Rieslings with some remaining sweetness.

Picture: Stephane Gass at the 1. International Riesling Symposium at Schloss Rheinhartshausen in the Rheingau, where he led a tasting of Rieslings with a hint of sweetness

Werner Näkel Received the Trophy for his Live Achievements

Werner Naekel is one of the fathers of the German red wine revolution. 30 years ago, in the international scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this has changed. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world. The share of red wines in terms of production has increased from 10 percent in the 1980s to about 35 percent now in Germany.

At the VDP wine presentation in Berlin in 2010, my favorite red wines were the wines of Friedrich Becker from Weingut Becker in the Pfalz, Werner Naekel from Weingut Meyer-Naekel in the Ahr and Ludwig Kreuzberg from Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in the Ahr. But there were other red wine producers eye to eye with my 3 favorites.

Picture: Friedrich Becker from Weingut Becker in the Pfalz, Werner Naekel from Weingut Meyer-Naekel in the Ahr and Ludwig Kreuzberg from Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in the Ahr in Berlin (from right to left)


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The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Winemaker Shane Finley from Sonoma County

Winemaker Shane Finley from Sonoma County and Michael Pearce, the owner of the Wine House in Fairfax in Virginia, teamed up for a 3-course winemaker dinner.

Shane Finley and Shane Wine Cellars

Shane’s main job is Associate Winemaker at Kosta Browne Wines in Sonoma County, one of the hottest Pinot Noir producers in California. He has been with Kosta Browne now for 5 years. During that time, he has started in his spare time to produce wines under his own label - Shane Wine Cellars. The quantities are small, but what we tasted was great. This is a very promising winemaker.

Shane is also a great communicator. Well, he studied English and received a B.A. in English from the Virginia Military Institute. With that, he headed to New York City to take a corporate insurance position. It was in New York were he was bitten by the wine bag. He changed course, and worked as intern for a number of years wineries around the world. Without any formal training in wine, he started at the bottom and began to work his way up.

Pictures: Winemaker Shane Finley from Sonoma County

He started out as a harvest intern with Copain Wines in 2001. Then, he traveled to Australia to work the 2002 harvest with Torbreck Vintners in the Barossa Valley. From there, he continued his globe-trotting and spent one year in France's Northern Rhone working for Pierre Gaillard in his Cote Rotie, Condrieu and Saint Joseph vineyards. Shane returned to California in the summer of 2003 and resumed working for Copain Wines. 2 years later, he accepted the Assistant Winemaker post at Paul Hobbs winery and in spring of 2006, Shane became Associate Winemaker at Kosta Browne Wines. At the same time, in his spare time, Shane started his own wine production - Shane Wine Cellars. “I want to produce handcrafted, terroir specific varietal wines” said Shane.

The Wine House in Fairfax

This was a very intimate winemaker dinner. We were all sitting around a communal table – about 12 of us – and talking with the up and coming winemaker Shane Finley, tasting his wines and enjoying the wonderful Wine House menu. Al McCosh, the owner of Nice Legs, joined the conversation as did Michael Pearce.

Pictures: Michael Pearce, Owner of the Wine House in Fairfax, with Shane Finley and Christian G.E.Schiller

The Wine House is a wine store and a wine bistro at the same time. It offers a bistro-style dining experience paired with a large selection of wines from all over the world. I find the atmosphere very appealing – relaxed, sophisticated, and modern. The wine selection is excellent. You buy by the glass or bottle. When you buy a bottle, Michael explained how it works: “Our wine list is our retail store. Simply pick a bottle off the wine rack at retail price and open it at your table for a $ 10 corking fee. For those of us that enjoy dining out, we know what great value it is to pay retail price versus restaurant mark-ups”. I like this concept very much.

Michael was born in New Zealand. His wine career launched itself 15 years ago in his hometown of Wanganui, New Zealand, where he opened a restaurant. This was followed by traveling the world onboard a cruise ship where he worked as a Sommelier, before meeting his Northern Virginia borne wife Jackie onboard. They relocated to New Zealand, where Michael worked at Craggy Range Winery in Hawke’s Bay. From there, they moved first to the West Coast and then to Fairfax, where they established the Wine House 6 years ago.

Michael is very knowledgeable and helpful. I enjoy very much talking with him about the wines he offers in his store. One brand of wines he is in particular knowledgeable: Lil Rippa Wines. Michael produces these wines with a partner in New Zealand. These are affordable wines to enjoy on an everyday basis.

What we Ate and Drank

First Course

Arugula Salad with Roasted Red Peppers and Portabella Mushrooms with White Balsamic Vinegar and Herbed Crouton - Paired with Shane Me Fille Rose 2010:



Second Course

New Zealand Lamb Loin Chop with Toasted Orzo, Wilted Greens and Fig Demi - Paired with Shane The Charm Pinot Noir 2009:



Third Course

Cervina Venison Tenderloing with Truffle Mash and Wild Mushroom Bordelaise - Paired with Shane The Unknown Syrah 2008:



The Wines

2010 Shane Ma Fille Rose

350 cases produced.

90% Syrah and 10% Grenache. “This was barrel-fermented, had minimal skin contact and did not go through malolactic fermentation.” said Shane. Was 3 months in used oak – no new oak. Shane told us he was aiming for a Tavel style with this wine, and he's done a nice job.

Picture: Shane Finley's Wines

A Rose which reminded me very much of the South of France, fresh, fruity, vibrant acidity with hints of citrus and and strawberries on the nose, great summer wine.

2008 Shane The Unknown Syrah

220 cases produced.

100% Syrah. Whole cluster fermentation.

A big, mouthfilling wine, blackberry and plum coupled with pepper and spice notes, although already starting to drink nicely, it's clear that this wine is made for aging - I would put it away for 5 to 10 years.

2009 Shane The Charm Pinot Noir

100 cases produced.

100% Pinot Noir. Shane’s first Pinot Noir. 25% new oak. It was sold within 2 weeks after the release.

Dark purple color in the glass, nice legs, aromas of dark fruits and smoky oak on the nose, good structure, appealing on the palate with a load of plum and cassis flavors, long finish.

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The Focus on Dry German Riesling – Daniel Hubbard Presents the German DSWE Portfolio to the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter)

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Daniel Hubbard

The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) had the pleasure to spend an evening with Daniel Hubbard from Domaine Select Wine Estate (DSWE) in New York. He poured the outstanding wines of Christmann, Kuehling-Gillot, Kuehn and Melsheimer.

Spruce in San Francisco versus Rutz in Berlin

What a contrast to the last wine tasting with Phil Bernstein from MacArthur Beverages! At Phil’s tasting the large majority wines were delicious low alcohol, sweet-style Rieslings from the Mosel. These were all exceptional wines, skillfully made by first-class winemakers like Ernst Loosen, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine and/or adding a bit of sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine. These are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world. When you go to the trendy restaurant Spruce in San Francisco, which has won many awards for its exceptional German wine portfolio, these are the wines you find there.

But when you go for a drink to Rutz Wein Bar in Berlin, one of the best wine bars in Germany, you find very few of Phil Bernstein wines and instead the wines that Daniel Hubbard presented. Today, wine loving German drinks dry. There is no doubt about it. The overwhelming majority of the wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market.

So, what we had in the course of a couple of months were 2 exceptional wine tasting: the first one was what I would call the American (Spruce) selection of German Rieslings and the second one what I would call the German (Rutz) selection of German Rieslings.

What is the future? I think the Phil Bernstein wines will definitely stay, although they have become “niche wines” as David Schildknecht said at the 1. International Riesling Symposium last year. These are very well crafted wines that are kind of unique in the world. They have an USP that the dry wines cannot take away from them. But the dry German wines, I am sure, will establish themselves on the world market. These Rieslings are exceptional as well. Not as unique as the sweet style wines, but also sensational.

A New Classification of German Wines

Many producers and consumers of German wine are unhappy about the German approach to classifying its wine and are pushing a new classification. The VDP – Germany’s elite winemaker – is at the forefront of this movement.

Picture: German Wine Society National Chairman of the Board George Marling with Daniel Hubbard

In the traditional German wine classification, the ripeness of the grapes is the key quality factor for German wine. The riper the grapes, the higher the finished wine is classified. In its new approach, the VDP winemakers are maintaining this classification for the sweet-style wines and supplementing it with a new classification system for the dry wines that is more terroir driven, as for example in neighboring France. The Daniel Hubbard tasting provided a good opportunity to get familiar with the new approach.

Classification of Sweet-style Wines

For sweet-style wines, the traditional wine classification with the Praedikats Kabinet, Spaetlese and Auslese is maintained, and of course, also for the noble-sweet wines. The ripeness of the grapes at harvest is the key quality factor. When a consumer sees Spaetlese or Auslese, he or she knows, this is a sweet-style wine. In Daniel’s tasting the last 3 wines were sweet-style wines and we had all three levels of sweetness: Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese, clearly indicated.

Classification of Dry Wines

The classification of dry wines is radically different. All dry wines are labeled as QbA (Qualitaetswein besonderer Anbaugebiete) wines – without any Praedikat – and the level of quality is then expressed by the terroir principle; the narrower the specification, the higher the quality of the wine is. The ripeness of the grapes at harvest as an indication of quality is on the backburner.

The following 3 quality levels are distinguished and we had all three of them in the tasting.

Grosse Gewaechs Wein (Grand Cru wine) – These are the best of the best: grand cru wines from the best vineyards that the country has to offer (1. Lage). There are other conditions, one of them being that in terms of ripeness of the grapes, the wine has to be at least at Spaetlese level. We had three of these wines - the third wine of Christmann, Kuehling-Gillaut and Kuehn – and all of them were breathtaking. They are all in the ultra premium category and expensive.

Lagenwein (Specific Vineyard Wines) - These are the best wines from other specific vineyards; with the winemaker, village, vineyard and grape variety indicated on the label; a number of conditions apply such as the maximum yield. We had one of them – from Christmann.

Ortswein (Regional Wine) - the quality level below Lagenwein, with the winemaker, village and the grape variety indicated on the label; there is no vineyard indicated. We had one Ortswein: the 2009 Kuhling-Gillot, Riesling, Nierstein from the Red Slope in Nierstein. See more about the Red Slope here.

Gutswein (House Wine) – wines of the winery, with only the winemaker and the grape variety indicated on the label; they go from so-called Literwein, the reasonably priced wine for daily consumption, to Gutsweine with a remarkable quality. The 2009 Christmann, Riesling was a typical Gutswein; the other Gutsweine were a notch above it, which the winemakers tried to indicate with the addition of Quintera, Jacobus, Quarzit.

Picture: Daniel Hubbard Speaking at the Tasting

This is all difficult to understand for anybody, in Germany as well as in the rest of the world. In the old days, QbA on the label would tell the wine consumer that this was an entry-level wine. It no longer does. Finally, as an additional complication, the Rheingau does not use this concept of Grosses Gewaechs, but the concept of Erstes Gewaechs, which, however, basically means the same thing. Jakob-Peter Kuehn’s ultra-premium wine was a Erstes Gewaechs, as he is from the Rheingau.

German Organic and Biodynamic Wines

Daniel’s wines stood out in another respect. These were all eco-wines. What are eco-wines? Generally speaking, wines made with an ecological concept in mind.

It may not yet be so obvious outside of Germany, but Germany is full swing on a green trip, particular after the events in Japan. The Green Party continues to rise and for the first time in the history of Germany, one of the German States is now lead by a Green Minister-President (Governor). I would not exclude that the next German Chancellor will be somebody from the Green Party.

Organic: Organic generally means the use of natural as opposed to chemical fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. The key is: no chemicals. Organic wines are changing the look of vineyards, literally. Whereas vineyards of the past commanded neat rows rid of all insects, rodents and weeds, organic vineyards are now replacing costly and damaging chemical sprays with environmental partnerships. Pesticides are giving way to introducing low-growing plants between vine rows that host beneficial insects that keep the pest insects in check.

Unfortunately, there is no agreement on what organic wine making as opposed to organic wine growing means. The main issue is the use of sulfur in the fermentation process. In the US, organic winemakers are not allowed to add sulfites during winemaking; an organic wine is a wine with basically zero sulfur. In Europe, sulfites are allowed to be added during fermentation and an organic wine typically contains a modest amount of sulfur.

Biodynamic: Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. Biodynamic is an approach following the rules and ideas of Austrian philosopher-scientist Rudolph Steiner. In his 1924 lectures, he viewed the farm as an entire living ecosystem starting with the soil which is treated as a living organism and receives special applications to enhance its health.

Sustainable: Sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. Sustainable farmers may farm largely organically or biodynamically but have flexibility to choose what works best for their individual property; they may also focus on energy and water conservation, use of renewable resources and other issues.

Natural: The idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. For example, only natural yeasts are used, the fermentation is slow, there is little or no use of new oak barrels; and there are no filtrations or cold stabilization. Natural wines are minimalist wines produced with as little intervention as possible.

Daniel Hubbard of Domaine Select Wine Estates

Daniel Hubbard of DSWE did a very informative and entertaining power-point presentation to share with us his extensive knowledge of German wine. As DSWE’s Central European portfolio manager and Mid-Atlantic sales manager, Daniel is well established with the German wine scene, as I can testify. We met initially on facebook, but in person at the 1st International Riesling Symposium last year at Schloss Reinhartshausen in the Rheingau.

Picture: Daniel Hubbard

In 2010, DSWE was named Food & Wine magazine's Importer of the Year. The German wine portfolio of DSWE is exquisite, containing at the one end the wines of somebody like Steffen Christmann, the current VDP President and at the other end the wines of Dirk Wuertz, a young and upcoming German winemaker who sells his Rieslings as bag-in box wines at Whole Foods and New York’s trendy wine bar “The Ten Bells.”

The Wines Daniel Poured

Weingut Christmann

2009 Christmann, Riesling
2009 Christmann, Riesling, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten
2009 Christmann, Riesling, Deidesheimer Idig, GG

Steffen Christmann is one of the superstars from the Pfalz. Weingut Christmann – located in Neustadt-Gimmeldingen - was founded in 1845. The vineyard area totals 14 hectares, planted mainly with Riesling (9 ha) and Pinot Noir (2,5 ha). Except for a few noble-sweet wines, all Christmann wines are vinified in a dry style. We had the Idig, a Grosses Gewächs site, which Steffen owns almost entirely.

Devotion to soil vitality and the preservation and individuality of the terroir has lead Weingut Christmann to practice biodynamic agriculture, strict vineyard management, and severe yield reduction. In the cellar they employ long and gentle pressing with low pressure, clarification through natural sedimentation, and a slow, not too cool fermentation sometimes until as late as June with only one filtration.


Pictures: Steffen Christmann in Berlin in 2010 with Wine Journalists Stuart Pigott and Hugh Johnson

Weingut Kuehling-Gillot

2009 Kuehling-Gillot, Riesling Quinterra
2009 Kuehling-Gillot, Riesling Nierstein
2008 Kuehling-Gillot, Riesling Nierstein Pettenthal GG

Weingut Kuehling-Gillot – in the northern part of Rheinhessen - is owned by Carolin Spanier- Gillot and her husband H.O. Spanier, who married in 2002; the couple also ownes Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier, in the southern part of Rheinhessen. The vineyard area of Weingut Kuehling-Gillot totals 11 hectares. Although Weingut Kühling-Gillot is a young winery, formed in 1970 through a marriage of Carolin’s parents, it has over 200 years of history behind it through the Kühling and Gillot families. Carolin Spanier-Gillot is a dynamic winemaker, full of creativity and committed to organic viticulture, as is her husband H.O. Weingut Kuehling-Gillot is situated in the picturesque town of Bodenheim, outside of Mainz, just 30 minutes away from Frankfurt airport by Metro.

Christian G.E.Schiller with Weingut Kuehling-Gillot Co-owner, Co-winemaker and Carolin Husband H.O. Spanier in Mainz

Weingut Peter-Jakob Kuehn

2009 Peter-Jakob Kühn, Riesling Jacobus
2009 Peter-Jakob Kühn, Riesling Quarzit
2009 Peter-Jakob Kühn, Riesling Doosberg, GG (1. Gewächs)

Peter-Jakob enjoys guru status in some circles. He is in the front line of making biodynamic wines in Germany. His wines are very sought after for their expression of terroir. For Peter Jakob Kuehn, the winemaking process begins in the roots of the vines. He is convinced that diversity and harmony in the wine presupposes diversity and harmony in the vineyard. He is the 11th generation of the family to run the winery (founded by Jacobus Kühn in 1786) and thinks with everything he does in the vineyard about the generations to come. In order to express the genuine origin of his wines, the musts are fermented without any manipulation of their natural sweetness or acidity. He is traditional and modern at the same time. After much of his 1999 harvest was spoiled by tainted corks, Peter Jakob Kühn joined the ranks of other courageous producers around the world, unhesitatingly adopting stainless steel caps in place of corks, even for his most expensive wines. 18 hectares.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with Angela and Peter-Jakob Kuehn in Berlin

Weingut Melsheimer

2009 Melsheimer, Riesling Kabinett, Reiler Mullay-Hofberg, MSR
2009 Melsheimer, Riesling Spätlese “Schäf”, Reiler Mullay-Hofberg, MSR
2007 Melsheimer, Riesling Auslese #34, Reiler Mullay-Hofberg, MSR

Finally, we tasted 3 sweet-style wines. They all had considerably less alcohol than the dry wines and a noticeable remaining sweetness. They were classified as Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese, in the tradional way. The wines were all from the same vineyard – the Reiler Mullay-Hofberg, but the grapes were harvested at different ripeness levels. Interestingly, none of them had been chaptalized as they were labeled at Praedikat wines and this is illegal for these wines, while all the dry wines we had before were possibly chaptalized, as they were labeled as QbA wines. But Torsten Melsheimer might have added sweet-reserve (sterilized juice) to his Praedikat wines to increase the level of remaining sweetness; this is allowed under German law.

For more than 200 years, the Melsheimers have been growing grapes in the quaint Mosel town of Reil. With 10 hectares of mostly steep vineyards, all work is done by hand, and a large majority of the vineyards are certified as cultural landscape. Thorsten and his wife Steffi have worked organically since 1995, and focus exclusively on Riesling. The main vineyard Thorsten focuses on is the Mullay-Hofberg, where the slate-dominated soil is maintained in terraced plots, along with extremely steep pitches. All of the work is done by hand, and only traditional methods are used in the cellar.

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