Caroline Parent-Gros Presented the Wines of Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne at Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range in Washington DC

Picture: Caroline Parent-Gros from Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne and Daughter of the Owners and Winemakers, Anne Francoise Gros and Francois Parent and Christian G.E. Schiller

Caroline Parent-Gros from Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne and daughter of the Owners and Winemakers, Anne Francoise Gros and Francois Parent, was in town (Washington DC) and guided us through a tasting of her families smashing 2010 Burgundies during a winemaker dinner at the newly opened at Range in the Washington DC area.

Domaine A-F Gros

The Gros family has been making wines in Burgundy since the 1830′s. The Domaine A-F Gros was created in 1996 when Jean and Jeanine Gros retired and divided their Domaine Gros-Renaudot among their 3 children, Michel, Bernard and Anne-Françoise. 3 new domains arose out of Jean and Jeanine Gros’ retirement: Domaine Michel Gros in Vosne Romanée, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur directed by Bernard in Vosne Romanée, and Domaine A-F Gros in Pommard. In Vosne, there is also a domaine of cousin Anne Gros. So in total, there are 4 Gros domaines, all of them independent from each other.

Pictures: Caroline Parent-Gros

Anne-Françoise married François Parent, who also brought a domaine into the marriage. Today, after the purchase of more vineyards, the husband and wife domaines work alongside each other and present a treasure of appellations from both the Cote du Nuits and Cote du Beaune. Their vineyards are mainly in Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Savigny-les-Beaune, Beaune and Pommard villages and the Hautes Côtes. Francois is renowned for his wines of elegance and distinction, which are the perfect expression of French Pinot Noir. Leaning towards a bio-dynamic approach, his traditional methods of cultivating the land and tending the vines are intimately adapted to the different micro-climates, soils, and expositions of the vineyards. Anne-Françoise and François live in Pommard but the winery is in Beaune.

Pictures: Sommelier Kathy Morgan, Al McCosh, Owner of Nice Legs, the Distributer, and Christian Schiller

Former Citronelle Wine Director and Sommelier Kathy Morgan is a Master Sommelier. There are only a bit more than 100 sommeliers in the world who have achieved the title of Master Sommelier. 

For other dinners organised by Al McCosh, see:
The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh

The Next Generation: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.

Anne-Françoise and François have three children: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.

Rosalie has nothing to do with wine, while Caroline (in her mid 30s, she has 2 children) and Mathias (in his early 20s) work side by side with their parents and are slated to eventually take over. Caroline focuses on the sales side (with her mother), while Mathias on the winemaking (with his father).

Pictures: Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Wine Tours, Caroline Parent-Gros and Christian G.E. Schiller

For upcoming Ombiasy Wine Tours, see:
Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Caroline has recently launched her own negociant venture and produces wines from a variety of vineyards located in both Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Part of her own venture is Pinot Angels, co-founded with Chef Hubert Keller in 2012. Hubert Keller is the owner of Fleur de Lys in San Francisco and Las Vegas. Hubert is an Alsace-born chef and a passionate Harley rider. "When you are a Pinot Angel, you ride freely in elegance and tradition. Not just anyone can handle this" says
Caroline Parent-Gros.

Pictures: Caroline Parent-Gros

Range by Chef Bryan Voltaggio

Tom Sietsema from the Washington Post: “Descriptions of Range, the latest creation from “Top Chef” alumnus Bryan Voltaggio, make the Chevy Chase Pavilion location sound more like an ocean liner than a restaurant. Three hundred seats! Thirty cooks! Nine food stations! Did you know Range also stocks two master sommeliers? The last detail is offered by one of the title holders, who proudly tells her customers the claim is shared only with the fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley.

Pictures: Range

Few restaurants have been as eagerly awaited as Range, the first foray into Washington by Voltaggio, whose three establishments in Frederick -- Volt, Lunchbox and Family Meal -- draw food enthusiasts from across the region. Part of the fuss stems from the chef’s celebrity and part of the attention is explained by the reality: Despite all the money and the stomachs in the area, Friendship Heights is poor when it comes to choice places to dine.

The big surprise after four dinners: The hype is justified. Range, backed by chef de cuisine Matt Hill from Charlie Palmer Steak, is a terrific restaurant much of the time. ...

The menu, no surprise, is long and varied. The left side of the script focuses on raw seafood, charcuterie, cheese, salads and pasta; the right column is devoted to pizza, grilled meats and fish, pan-roasted items and vegetable dishes. …

Pictures: Range

The prime seats are those to the left of the bar, a curved stretch with floor-to-ceiling windows that look into the atrium on one side and with a view of the cooking stations -- “a chef’s playground,” Voltaggio calls them -- on the other. The expanse in the back feels more like an overflow room. Range’s cream-colored seats and muted palette let the food shine; a retail shop with Voltaggio-approved kitchen equipment feels as if Williams-Sonoma crashed the party.

Take advantage of the sterling credentials of the sommeliers. Keith Goldston and more recently Kathy Morgan clearly enjoy sharing the stories behind their liquid wares, which call to both the haves and the have-not-as-muches with a broad range of wines and prices. France is particularly well represented."

Vintage 2010

We tasted vintage 2010 wines. Caroline Parent: “2010 could be compared to 2002 with its structure and tannins. Small volume (-30 to 50%). 2010 will be a complex wine representative of big Burgundy wines to be aged. It is a collection vintage.

Picture: Getting Ready

What we Ate and Drank

Pictures: The Dinner Table

Grilled king salmon, pork belly, corn, porcini, summer truffle

2010 Domaine A-F Gros Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits (US$42.99)

From a parcel located on a very well exposed small hill with the forest behind, which protects it from strong winds. The vines are planted so they follow the slope and contours of the small hill. This layout permits vines to be planted on steep slopes without the risk of erosion of the soil. Generous and robust, full-bodied and round, it combines engaging berry aromas with real strength. This is a lovely wine and a good step up from most regular Bourgogne.

Jancis Robinson: Meat juice, bit of blood, whip-smart acid. Great fruit, but not quite so complex as the basic Bourgogne rouge. 16 Points

Yukon gold potato gnocchi, braised pork, guanciale, young garlic

2010 Domaine A-F Gros Savigny-le-Beaune, 1er Cru Les Clos des Guettes (US$72.99)

A-F Gros is an excellent source for this wine on the upper slope facing south. Superb freshness on the nose and palate. Displays great minerality and acidity. Lovely vibrant palate with fine tannins and excellent length. This appellation has received Burghound’s Sweet Spot award for the last five vintages.

Jancis Robinson: Minty, herbal notes and a really attractive grip on the finish. Nutmeg spice, redcurrant – all sorts going on in here. Ably shows Pinot's breadth. 17 Points

Bobo farm squab, foie gras spinach emulsion

2010 Domaine A-F Gros Beaune 1er Cru Les Boucherottes (US$79.99)

Boucherottes is located near the Pommard border but surprisingly produces a fruity style of wine without hard tannins. The earth here is supple, very fine and quite red in color. The yield from the old vines here is very small. The regularity of this cru is quite remarkable. Red-blue pinot fruit of serious style and body. A very smart wine from Beaune, a commune that is starting to produce some very exciting wines at reasonable prices. Like all good reds from Beaune this merits some time in the cellar.

Jancis Robinson: Wonderful red fruit clarity with that Burgundy savouriness and the perfect dose of oak. Debonair, classy and poised. 17.5 Points

Roseda farms beef, stuffed morels, chicory

2010 Domaine A-F Gros Chambolle-Musigny (US$79.99)

From vineyards totaling 39 acres, divided into several parcels with different localities: Frémières, Le Pas de Chat, Derrière le Four, Les Athets. The parcels are fermented together. Lovely depth of colour. An aromatic nose leads to a rich, softer, rounder palate typical of the appellation (when compared to Pommard or Beaune). Still retains the minerality that makes 2010 so special. A really lovely example of what Chambolle should produce.

Jancis Robinson: Juicy red fruit, quite primary and juvenile. Enjoyable. 16.5+ Points

Pleasant ridge reserve, beets, lemon, thyme

2010 Domaine A-F Gros Vosne-Romanee Clos de la Fontaine Monopole (US$85.99)

From a parcel of 35 ares. One of the strengths of the A-F Gros range are the three Vosne-Romanee Lieu-dits. Clos de la Fontaine is a beautifully balanced wine with all the spice you would expect from Vosne-omanee. Not a big wine but one that expresses the style and class of Vosne-Romanee with its bright, mineral infused flavours of berry and earth.

Jancis Robinson: Syrupy red cherry fruit, gentle tannins, bit of forest floor, supple and light with charming daintiness. 17 Points

schiller-wine: Related Postings 

The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner

The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA

The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
Lunch with Pinot Noir Giant Walter Schug in Sonoma, California

Visiting Walter Schug and his Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Carneros, California 

Wine Tasting: The Pinot Noirs of Patricia Green, Oregon, US

The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon

Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA

Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Italian Natural Wines

Picture: Vendredi du Vin #57 - Vini Naturali d'Italia

Italian Wine

Italy is home of some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Etruscans and Greek settlers produced wine in the country long before the Romans started developing their own vineyards. Two thousand years later, Italy is world leader in wine, accounting for about 20% of world wine production. Italians also lead the world in wine consumption by volume, 59 liters per capita, compared with 8 liters per capita in the US. Wine is grown in almost every region of the country.

Picture: The Wine Regions of Italy

Vendredi du Vin #57: Italian Natural Wines

This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by Patrick Böttcher, a manager of a pharmacy in Brussels, Belgium. The subject is: Italina Natural Wine: “Petit rappel, les italiens définissent leurs vins comme naturels s'ils sont issus de sols respectueux de la nature, et s'ils sont fait en respect avec l'artisanat historique tout en intervenant un minimum afin de conserver les marques de leur fruit et de leur terroir. S'ils ont effectivement souvent très peu de soufre embarqué, il n'y apas de règle absolue, juste du bon sens.”

My contribution is a bit broader than Italian natural wines. After a short primer of different concepts of “green” winemaking, including natural I profile “Agricola Querciabella” is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.

Patrick Böttcher’s List of Italian Natural Wine Producers

Here is Patrick Patrick Böttcher’s List of Italian Natural Wine Producers: “Bon comme on est sympa et qu'on sait que vous allez caler, voici une liste de gentils vignerons dont nous vous conseillons absolument les quilles : Luca Roagna, Belotti, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Giuseppe Mascarello, Augusto Cappellano, Bartolo Mascarello, Brovia, Trinchero, Sylvio Morando, Villa Terlina, Elisabetta Foradori, Musella, Corte Sant'Alda, Tenuta Grillo, Lo Zerbone, La Stoppa, Denavolo, Tenuta di valgiano, Podere le Boncie, Pacina, Colombaia, Fonterenza, Stella di Campalto, Montevertine, Pian dell'Orino, Paradiso di Manfredi, Fattoria di Caspri, Massa Vecchia, Podere Sanguineto, Le Coste, Emilio Pepe, Cantina Giardino, Ca del Noce, Lamoresca, COS, Occhipinti, Frank Cornelissen, Paolo Bea, et tous les inspirés de la Slovénie voisine, Gravner, Princic, Radikon, Vodopivec... et j'en oublie, forcément !!!!!”

Natural and Other Green Concepts of Winemaking

What are natural wines? Generally, the idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. Natural wines are part of a group of wines that I would call “green wines”, wines made with an ecological concept in mind. There are several different concepts of “green wines”.

Organic: Organic generally means the use of natural as opposed to chemical fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. The key is: no chemicals.

Organic wines are changing the look of vineyards, literally. Whereas vineyards of the past commanded neat rows rid of all insects, rodents and weeds, organic vineyards are now replacing costly and damaging chemical sprays with environmental partnerships. Pesticides are giving way to introducing low-growing plants between vine rows that host beneficial insects that keep the pest insects in check.

Unfortunately, there is no agreement on what organic wine making as opposed to organic wine growing means. The main issue is the use of sulfur in the fermentation process. In the US, organic winemakers are not allowed to add sulfites during winemaking; an organic wine is a wine with basically zero sulfur. In Europe, sulfites are allowed to be added during fermentation and an organic wine typically contains a modest amount of sulfur.

Biodynamic: Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. Biodynamic is an approach following the rules and ideas of Austrian philosopher-scientist Rudolph Steiner. In his 1924 lectures, he viewed the farm as an entire living ecosystem starting with the soil which is treated as a living organism and receives special applications to enhance its health.

Sustainable: Sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. Sustainable farmers may farm largely organically or biodynamically but have flexibility to choose what works best for their individual property; they may also focus on energy and water conservation, use of renewable resources and other issues.

Natural: The idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. For example, only natural yeasts are used, the fermentation is slow, there is little or no use of new oak barrels; and there are no filtrations or cold stabilization. Natural wines are minimalist wines produced with as little intervention as possible.

Vegan: Vegan refers to the process of "finning" the wine. Proteins, spent yeasts and small organic matter in wines are sometimes eliminated from wines with fining agents made from animal products. Fish bladders, egg whites, milk proteins and even bull’s blood (not allowed in the US or France) are all used as fining agents. As an alternative, Bentonite, a specific type of clay, is used for clarification in vegan wines. It’s important to note that vegan or vegetarian wines may or may not be made from organic grapes.

Fair trade: Fair trade wines first came onto the market the US in 2007, following trends in coffee, tea and produce. Fair trade refers to the conditions and wages paid to employees of the winery; it guarantees employees a fair and "livable" wage for their product. Fair Trade certification of wine has been around since 2003 in Europe. The certification means that wineries met certain standards for living wages, environmental sustainability and community improvement. Oakland's TransFair USA just announced that it has begun certifying Fair Trade wines from Argentina, Chile and South Africa for the American market.

Carbon footprint: The carbon neutral label comes from a different angle: global warming. All economic activites have a carbon footprint, including wine making. Carbon neutral wineries are trying to make a contribution to the general efforts of reducing the emission of carbon dioxide. A major aspect of carbon neutrality however is outside the control of wineries. It is the transport of the wine from the winery to the consumer. For example, the carbon dioxide emission of a Bordeaux send to New York City by ship is lower than that of a California wine transported on the road.

Water footprint: A new thing is water footprint, reflecting the concern that the planet is moving into a period where water becomes more and more scarce.

For more, see:
Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

Agricola Querciabella

From the Chianti Classico DOCG region in Tuscany, Agricola Querciabella has become known among wine lovers for taking the concept of premium wines to the extreme. Agricola Querciabella is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Second, Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.

Agricola Querciabella was founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Castiglioni, a wine connoisseur and fine wine collector from Milan, who had made a fortune in the construction business, including in Mexico. Giuseppe Castiglioni initially planted vines as a hobby, but soon set about authoring with his Camartina—the flagship wine of Querciabella - a Super-Tuscan success story.

Money was not an issue when Giuseppe Castiglioni bought a run down estate in the Greve region. His main concern was to make wines that could match with the fine French wines from Bordeaux and Bourgogne that he liked to drink so much. The shift to vegan biodynamic winemaking was engineered by his son, Sebastiano Castiglioni, who took over the management of the estate in the 1990s. Under Sebastiano Castiglioni leadership, the trend of perfection is still the utmost priority.

Only the best of everything is used, like stainless steel tanks with computer control, peristaltic pumps, 100% natural yeast and only the finest of the fine oak barrels. Quality is something that the Castiglionis do not compromise upon. Also, over time, they established an elite winemaking cadre, including winemaker Guido de Santi and famed consultant and Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Giorgio Fragiacomo from Agricola Querciabella at a Tasting at

Agricola Querciabella Portfolio

Agricola Querciabella produces four wines from its vineyards located in the Chianti Classico zone:

Pictures: Giorgio Fragiacomo and his Querciabella Wines

Batàr, a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay; Camartina, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese; Palafreno, a monovarietal Merlot; and Querciabella, a Chianti Classico DOCG made of 100% Sangiovese. From the vineyards in coastal Maremma, Querciabella produces Mongrana, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Camartina—the flagship of Querciabella—was Castiglioni’s first contribution to the Super-Tuscan movement. Camartina continues to be a defining example of the Super-Tuscan genre. While Sangiovese was the predominant varietal for the greater part of Camartina’s early career, the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has increased gradually over the years, with recent vintages favoring Cabernet.

Batàr is Querciabella’s high-level Tuscan white, inspired by the white grand cru wines of the Bourgogne. Initially, Batàr was a Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio blend. Today, it is a 50/50 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay blend. Its stylistic orientation altered with the 1998 vintage, when the use of new oak was reduced, bringing Batàr within much closer range of its Burgundian archetype.

The portfolio’s penultimate wine, Palafreno, is monovarietal Merlot, debuting with the 2000 vintage. Its vinification regimen entails a fairly lengthy maceration period of 18 days and aging in 100 percent French oak (60% new and 40% first passage) for approximately 18 months.

For more, see:
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery – Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California

Excellency and Ecology: The Wines of Gebrueder Dr. Becker in Rheinhessen, Germany

The Millesime Bio 2010 in Montpellier, France: A Discovery of Organic and Biodynamic Wines at the one of a Kind Wine Trade Show

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyard Wines in Washington DC

Natural Wine Bars: Terroir in San Francisco, Terroirs in London and La Cremerie in Paris

The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

FairChoice Certified Wine in Germany: Weingut Joachim Flick in the Rheingau

Judging at the ECOVIN Ecowinner 2012 Contest in Oppenheim, Germany

Blogging for Organic Wine – New Ways of Wine Experience: The Organic Wines of Oekoweingut Hubertushof at Prowein 2012 in Germany 

Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery – Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California

Wine Event: President Obama and the First Lady eat at the "Green" Restaurant Nora and have a "Green" Spottswoode Wine

Benzinger Wines Served at the 2010 "Green" Annual White House Correspondents Dinner

The Natural Wines of Terroir in San Francisco

Julia Zuccardi from Familia Zuccardi in Argentina Visited the US to Introduce New Santa Julia Wines

Headwind (Gegenwind) – A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature

A Sparkling Wine for the Summer: Dr. L Riesling Sparkling – A German Sekt from Weingut Dr. Loosen, Germany

Picture: Ernst Loosen with a Glass of Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

Dr. L Sparkling is 100% pure Riesling - the crisp, fruity grape that has made German wine famous for centuries. It is made using the Charmat method, which produces bright, clean sparkling wines in a more affordable wayRecently, Ernst Loosen was in town (Washington DC) and I had several opportunities to meet up with him. I bought several cases of his wines, including a J. Christopher Pinot Noir, a wine he makes in collaboration with Somers in Oregon, and his Dr. L Riesling Sparkling, a wonderful German Sekt for the summer at a very attractive price.

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, with a Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

For the upcoming ombiasy wine tour to Germany, which will include a visit of Weingut Dr. Loosen and a tasting with Ernst Loosen, see: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Weinrallye #64: A Sparkling Wine for the Summer

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "Sparkling Summer Wine”. Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany.

Picture: Weinrallye #64

This month's wine rally is organized by Thorsten Jordan with a little help from his friends). The theme is: A Sparkling Wine for the Summer. I have chosen to write about the Dr. L Riesling Sparkling from Weingut Dr. Loosen.

Ernst Loosen in the World

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.

Picture: Ernst Loosen

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

See:
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein 
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA 
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

Ernst Loosen makes both a still and a sparkling Dr. L.

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine produced for a global market. It is made by Ernst and Thomas Loosen (Loosen Bros.). Ernst explained: “Dr. L comes exclusively from traditional vineyards with steep slopes and slate soil. This introductory, non-estate wine embodies the elegant and racy style of classic Mosel Riesling. By working closely with growers on long-term contract, we are able to assure excellent quality in every vintage.”

Dr. L Riesling Sparkling is the sparkling sibling of the (still) Dr. L. It is like the Dr. L 100% pure Riesling. It is made using the Charmat method, where the second fermentation is done in a pressurized tank to keep the bubbles in the wine. This method produces bright, clean sparkling wines in a more affordable way, which makes it possible to offer this charming bubbler at a very nice everyday price.

Picture: Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

As is usual with Riesling — especially from a cool climate like Germany’s — a juicy touch of sweetness was left in the wine to balance the naturally brisk acidity. What you end up with is a refreshing, fruit-driven sparkler that’s a pleasure to drink any time. It’s a great choice for summer parties on the lawn, a Wednesday evening at home, or any time you need a little sparkle in your life.

Alcohol: 12.0% Residual sweetness: 27.8 grams/liter Total acidity: 6.4 grams/liter pH: 3.06

Sekt – German Sparkling Wine

Not well known outside of Germany, sparkling wine has a long, rich tradition in Germany, where it has been called “Sekt” since the late 1800s. Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range. In addition to Sekt, Germany produces semi-sparkling wine, which is called Perlwein. But the production of Perlwein is small.

There is a dozen or so large Sekt houses. They produce more than 2.000.000 bottles each annually. Most of these large Sekt houses were established in the 1800s. At that time, there was only one method known to produce Sekt, the méthode traditionnelle. But in contrast to the champagne houses, the large Sekt houses have all moved to the charmat method as main method of the second fermentation after World War II. Like the champagne houses, Sekt houses do not own vineyards, but purchase the base wine from winemakers.

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC

The smaller Sekt houses, like the large Sekt houses, do not own vineyards, but also buy the base wine from winemakers. They also tend to have a long history and often links to the champagne region, beautiful facilities and old cellars for the second fermentation and storage. The big difference is that they typically have not gone the route of tank fermentation but continue to ferment in the méthode traditionnelle.

Finally, increasingly, there is a number of top quality winemakers, who, in addition, to their still wines, have started to include Sekts in their portfolio. These Sekts are typically vintage Sekts, from a specified vineyard, made of specific grapes, often Riesling, in the méthode champenoise and with little or not dosage (brut or extra but).

See also:
German Wine Basics: Sekt
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France
German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein 

Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC

German Wine Basics: Sekt

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France

German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA

Picture: Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre in Bordeaux, Christian G.E. Schiller and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin at Boxwood Winery in Virginia

Anne Cuvelier from the Cuvelier family (that owns, inter alia, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux) was in town (Washington DC) for the Heart’s Delight Event. On the side, Annette Schiller from wine tours by ombiasy organized a winemaker dinner with her at Eola on P Street in Dupont Circle in Washington DC. Anne also wanted to visit Virginia wineries. We visited 3 of the leading wineries in Virginia, all three of them intertwined with Bordeaux: Boxwood, Linden, RdV.

For more on the visits with Anne Cuvleier, see:
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre in Bordeaux, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Touring Virginia with Anne Cuvelier, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux (forthcoming)

See here for the Leoville Poyferre Dinner at Eola:
Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

For upcoming ombiasy wine tours by Annette Schiller, see:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

In the Barrel Cave: Vintage 2012

We stared with the 2012 vintage. These wines are currently in barrels and not yet blended. That gave us the opportunity to taste different grape varieties at this very early stage of winemaking. In Boxwood’s barrel cave, barrels lie atop rocks that serve as humidity controls, and the room was constructed underground to help in maintaining a constant temperature of 55 to 65 degrees.

Pictures: Tasting in the Barrel Cave

The Merlot was soft and smooth with notes of cassis and cherries and some hints of vanilla. The Cabernet Franc was clean with characteristic pepper notes. The Petit Verdot was inky with concentrated plum flavors. The Cabernet Sauvignon exhibited lovely flavors of black cherries and also a bit of plum.

In the Tank Room: Vintage 2011

From the barrel cave, Rachel led us to the tank room, where the 2011 vintage, already blended, was resting.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tank Room

In 2011, September rainfall and little sunshine raised concerns of botrytis and sour rot; therefore, Boxwood opted for selective harvesting. Clusters that contained over 50% rot were not collected, and salvageable clusters were sorted berry by berry. The result? Lower yields but clean fruit.

2011 Topiary

Topiary is the St. Emilion-style blend with Cabernet Franc as the primary grape.

Garnet in the glass, notes of strawberry and garden herbs on the nose, on the palate silky with firm tannins, good finish with strawberry and spice flavors. This blend was already aged in French oak barrels for twelve months, and upon bottling it should continue to develop quite nicely.

2011 Boxwood

Boxwood is the Medoc-style blend with Cabernet Sauvignon as the primary grape.

Deep purple in the glass, notes of blackberry, dark plum, cigar box, with some anise on the nose, silky smooth with round tannins on the palate, intense finish of dark fruits. This blend was already aged in French oak barrels for twelve months, and upon bottling it should continue to develop quite nicely.

In the Tasting Room: Vintage 2010

We then went to the tasting area, to try the 2010 Boxwood and Topiary, which are already bottled.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tasting Room

2010 Topiary

61% Cabernet Franc 39% Merlot

Garnet in the glass, notes of strawberry, pepper, tobacco on the nose, lush dark fruit on the palate and with a subtle pepper flavor.

Boxwood 2010

56% Cabernet Sauvignon 43% Merlot 7% Petit Verdot

Full bodied with well-structured ripe tannins, blackberry dominates the palate with a long and smooth finish.

In the Library: Vintage 2007

We also tried the 2007 vintage, which according to Rachel was the first true vintage for Boxwood. 2006 was the first, but she does not count these wines.

2007 Topiary

Plum and red berry on the nose, broad mouth feel, nice blue fruits and cassis with a little leather on the palate, finishes with ripe tannins.

2007 Boxwood

Notes of blackberry, cassis, and dried cherry, coupled with a pinch of saddle leather on the nose, a lovely concentrated wine, with low acids, big fruit, and low-to-medium tannins.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tasting Room

Boxwood Winery

The Boxwood Winery is located in Middleburg in the midst of picturesque Loudoun County in Virginia in the US. It is owned by John Kent Cooke, a former owner and president of the NFL Washington Redskins. Boxwood aims high: to make premium red wines with Bordeaux grape varieties and a distinct Virginia expression. Boxwood produces 5,000 cases per year.

John Kent Cook bought the estate in 2001 and commissioned renowned architect Hugh Jacobsen - with the advice of Dr. Richard Vine, Professor of Enology at Purdue University - to design a modern winery that agrees with its surroundings. The result – completed in 2005 - is a stunning four-part complex, filled with high-quality, high-tech streamlined inner workings.

The center is a reception room with a circular stainless steel tasting bar.

This space overlooks the circular cave that is totally underground and fitted with a dome ceiling. The cave fits 255 (currently housing 75) French oak barrels arranged in concentric circles.

The third structure, on the same level of the other three, is the chai with 12 stainless steel fermentation tanks.

The fourth structure houses the bottling plant and case storage.

The 170-acre property once served as a horse farm, owned in the early 1900s by General Billy Mitchell (otherwise known as the father of the Air Force) who lived there until his death.

Pictures:Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller and Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferréin St. Julien. For more see: Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Vineyards

Sixteen acres of grapes are planted on the property. The vineyard is monitored by a GPS custom designed system to record viticultural practices. Currently, 8 varieties of grapes grown: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Tannat, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Malbec, and Carmenere.

Wine Making Approach

The Estate grown grapes are hand harvested, brought to the winery and sorted. After being destemmed on the press pad, the whole, uncrushed grapes go through a temperature-controlled, whole-berry fermentation in the stainless steel tanks. “When berries are not crushed, wine ferments little by little, which adds to the complexity” explained wine maker Adam McTaggert over lunch. Then “punch-downs, pumpovers, and delestage are performed.” Once fermentation is complete, the wine is pumped through stainless steel pipes into 100 percent French oak barrels nestled in the hillside cave room. Malolactic fermentation takes place in the barrels. After aging for up to a year, the wine is pumped to the bottling room, where Italian machinery fills, corks, and labels the bottles on the premises.

Rachel Martin

Rachel Martin, Executive Vice President of the winery and the owners’ daughter, oversees the vineyard, winery, and national and international sales. No stranger to the wine business, Rachel studied Viticulture and Enology at Napa Valley College and Sensory Evaluation at the University of Bordeaux (School of Enology).

Pictures: Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville- Poyferre in Bordeaux, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin at Boxwood Winery in Virginia, USA

Rachel is Boxwood’s world ambassador and her relaxed and inviting presence immediately put guests as ease. “We want Virginia wine to be on the international playing field,” she enthuses, but notes, “You’ve got to start at home. You have to increase your quality for your local consumer.”

Stephane Derenoncourt

John Kent Cooke brought famed French flying winemaker Stéphane Derenoncourt to consult with Boxwood. Stéphane Derenoncourt is entirely self-taught. He and his wife now work with a populous portfolio of estates in Bordeaux and elsewhere, including Domaine de Chevalier, Canon-la-Gaffelière, Smith Haut Lafitte, Prieuré-Lichine and Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse. In June 2008, Derenoncourt and Vignerons Consultants were hired by Francis Ford Coppola to work on the Napa Valley property Rubicon Estate Winery.

schiller-wine: Related Posting

Northern Virginia Magazine October 2012: Wine Recs from Local Winos

Visiting Jennifer Breaux Blosser and Breaux Vineyards in Virginia, USA

Virginia Wines Shine in San Francisco - 2012 San Francisco International Wine Competition, USA

Judging Virginia Wines in Suffolk, Virginia - Virginia Wine Lover Magazine Wine Classic 2012

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia – A Profile, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Book Review: "Beyond Jefferson's Vines - The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia" by Richard Leahy, USA

An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA

Vineyard Walk, Wine Tasting in the Vineyard and Lunch in the Tarara Tank Cellar with Wine Maker Jordan Harris, Tarara Winery, USA 

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany 

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013