Owner and winemaker Anton Bauer, Weingut Anton Bauer in Austria, was in town and I had the chance to dine and wine with him at Chef Jacques E. Haeringer’s Alsatian restaurant L’Auberge Chez Francois in the hills outside of Washington DC. Klaus Wittauer, former L’Auberge Chez Francois sommelier and currently Anton Bauer’s (and other Austrian winemakers’) US importer, skillfully orchestrated the evening.
Anton Bauer and Weingut Anton Bauer
The history of Weingut Anton Bauer is an amazing success story. Within less than two decades, Anton Bauer created an impressive winery with an excellent reputation out of a tiny mixed farming operation of his parents. Today, Anton Bauer processes the grapes of some 55 hectares of vineyards in an ultra-modern cellar, with three-quarters of the production being exported to foreign countries, including the US. The Anton Bauer wines regularly get top ratings and prizes. Klaus Wittauer, based in Virginia, played a major role in this story.
Anton Bauer on his success: “The key is quality. It is the deciding factor in whether a customer comes only once or repeatedly. One already notices this at the tasting, whether someone is happy with the wine or not – and one can only talk one’s way out of a weak vintage once ... To strive for top quality is a conscious decision – and then it requires a variety of factors, small and big decisions in the vineyard and the cellar, how to get where one wants to be.”
Anton Bauer, born in 1971, represents the 4th generation to manage the now 55 hectares (owned and leased) winery. After completing his viticulture studies in 1988, he did his first internship in Burgundy and then worked in the winery of the Göttweig Monastery in Furth, near Krems. In 1992, he took over his parents’ small farm including vineyards totaling a bit more than 3 hectares and embarked on an extraordinary process of expansion.
When Anton Bauer took over, 95% of the output was white wine, sold almost exclusively as simple house wine, typically in 2-liter bottles. Anton Bauer: “The biggest problem when I took over was the poor cellar technology. I had to invest here immediately.” The old wooden barrels were disposed of and new steel tanks were bought. “You could offer the customer something better – I went straight to change the customer base in 1995, when I gave up the entire house wine business with its 2-liter bottles overnight.” He incurred a massive revenue loss in the short term, but it meant the strategic reorientation of the entire winery.
Red wine was also an issue for Anton Bauer and he planted vineyards in 1993 with some Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zweigelt. From the 1994 vintage, Anton Bauer produced the first “Wagram Cuvée”, a red wine – an elegant and finesse rich, but also powerful wine from an excellent vintage. The wine was a big hit.
2000 was another decisive year, when Anton Bauer met Klaus Wittauer at the International Wine Fair "VieVinum" in Vienna. Klaus Wittauer was interested in bringing the Anton Bauer wines to the US. A new team was formed: Bauer and Wittauer. The export to America developed excellently. Anton Bauer: “Therefore we could expand very quickly and increase the vineyards – but not fast enough. In 2003, I found that we could not grow fast enough to meet the demand.”
Anton Bauer and Klaus Wittauer therefore decided in 2003 to start their own wine-export company. Besides the wines of Anton Bauer, today it also exports a wide range of wines from a handful of selected companies from the various wine regions of Austria to America.
But also the Austrian market became increasingly interested in the Anton Bauer winery. Anton Bauer became an important player in the home markets such as the ski resorts in the Arlberg region. Soon, the first awards followed. “Toni - who?” became the top vintner Anton Bauer
Wagram
Weingut Anton Bauer is in the Wagram (2800 hectares), a 40 km long and 30 m high ridge between the towns of Krems and Tulln, consisting of thousands of years old gravel sediments of the ancient Danube.
Vineyards
Rosenberg: The "Rosenberg" vineyard site is one of the best sites in Feuersbrunn. It is situated on one of the highest areas used for wine growing in the Wagram.
Spiegel: Soft, south-facing tarraced site with a height similar to that of the Rosenberg, and protected against the northwest by the gravel ridge of the Hengstberg.
Berg: "Berg" is a common name for sites for the southerly descending slopes of the Wagram. The soil consists of gravel, clay and loess including some primary rock and is well suited for vines ranging from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling to Syrah.
Gmörk: Middle High German for "community boundary".
Weingut Anton Bauer Portfolio
White Cuvée, Rosé, Sparkling White Wine: Fragrant white wine blend, Rosé from Zweigelt, Syrah and Merlot, and Sparkling Wine produced by the traditional Champagne method are the first choice as an apéritif to greet guests. Wonderful drinks for the terrace on a summer's evening.
Riesling, Gruener Veltliner Gmörk, Gruener Veltliner Rosenberg: The Riesling is from the site known as Ried Berg, located south of Feuersbrunn. With its intensive stone fruit, fine structure and mature pleasant integrated acidity, it is a refreshing elegant accompaniment to light appetizers. The less fruity, finely spiced Veltliner, “Gmörk” and “Rosenberg” is another equally interesting option as an accompaniment to these dishes.
Gruener Veltliner Rosenberg Reserve, Gruener Veltliner Grande Reserve: The powerful Gruener Veltliner accompanies dishes that go well with a light dry red wine. The Rosenberg Reserve is always the fresher version, while the Grand Reserve brings more opulence and creaminess.
Zweigelt: The classic Zweigelt is a charming, fruity red wine for all occasions.
Pinot Noir Wagram, Pinot Noir Reserve: Anton Bauer's Pinots are the ultimate accompaniment to delicate dishes of wild game and wild fowl.
Wagram Cuvee, Reserve Wagram: The complex aroma mix of the different grape varieties, fine-grained tannins and animated acidity make Anton Bauer cuvées universal food companions.
Merlot Reserve: On the loess soil of the Rosenberg one finds the late-ripening Merlot, influenced by the best conditions of soil and sunlight. The grapes are fully ripe and the wine has aromas of dark berries and peppery spice and its quaint fruit sweetness is warm and inviting.
Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Edition: This powerful red wine with its distinctive structure, its mighty tannin structure and its lush, dark berry fruit abundance is an aristocratic companion for strong stews and game dishes of braised ox cheek to venison haunch to wild boar ragout but also for a classic, medium cooked steak in all its forms from the filet or porterhouse steak to the Tuscan steak on the charcoal grill.
Eiswein: This white sweet wine specialty is pressed only when the natural conditions permit.
The Weingut Anton Bauer Team
Anton Bauer: Winemaker
Gudrun Steinböck: Partner in life of Anton Bauer. She is responsible for the wide variety of tasks arising in connection with the organization, presentation and sales at the winery.
Sieglinde Bauer: Sister of Anton Bauer. Her main focus is to ensure a smooth delivery of Anton Bauer wines to America alongside her responsibility for the complete wine export.
Edeltraud Bauer: Mother of Anton Bauer. She took her well deserved retirement a couple of years ago.
Klaus Wittauer and Kwselection
Klaus and I go back many years. He was born in Austria and attended Hotel and Restaurant Management School in Salzburg. He then worked for many years in some of the world‘s top restaurants in Austria, Bermuda and the United States, including the lovely L‘Auberge Chez Francois in Great Falls, Virginia, where we first met. Then he moved to the trade side and became the wine buyer for Sutton Place Gourmet (today: Balducci) in Washington DC before creating his own export company in Austria with Anton Bauer about ten years ago. At the same time, he created kwselection in the US.
Today, Kwselection includes top producers from most of the wine producing areas of Austria: Anton Bauer from the Wagram, Leo Hillinger from Burgenland, Gustav Strauss from Styria, Martin Mittelbach from Wachau, Karl and Brigitta Steininger from Kamptal, Steindorfer from Neusiedlersee, Proidl from Kremstal, Meinklang from Burgenland, and, this his most recent addition, Weingut Netzl from Carnuntum.
As an Austrian married to an American, Klaus has a close relationship with all of his wineries in Austria and has succeed in expanding distribution throughout the United States, with a strong focus on the East Coast.
For other postings on winemakers in Klaus Wittauer's portfolio, see:
The American Art of Joanne Roberts Wittauer and the Austrian Wines of Klaus Wittauer – A Taste of Art and Wines at the Curious Grape in Shirlington in the Washington DC Area, USA
“Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA
Tasting Leo Hillinger Red Wines with Leo Hillinger’s Assistant Winemaker Michael Hoeffken and US Importer Klaus Wittauer
Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria
Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA
Skype and Biodynamic Winemaking - Winetasting in the US with Winemaker Werner Michlits, Weingut Meinklang, in Austria
At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria
Jacques E. Haeringer and L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, Virginia
L’Auberge Chez Francois is an extraordinary place in the hills outside of Washington DC. It was founded by François Haeringer in the heart of Washington DC in 1954. Today, L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls is much the same as when François first opened it - family-run, with Jacques’ brother Paul as the restaurant's sommelier and Jacques as Chef de Cuisine. L'Auberge Chez François is on the top 50 list of "Best Overall" Restaurants in US, as voted by users of the Open Table reservation system.
Chef Jacques is one of America’s most respected culinary personalities. His menus feature classic Alsatian and French cuisine reinterpreted for American palates. While his father Francois used to say that the chef has to stay in the kitchen, Chef Jacques is very present in the restaurant. He clearly enjoys talking about food and to communicate with his guests. He is great fun to listen to. No wonder that Jacques can be found sharing his cooking secrets on radio and television programs across the country.
Jacques is also a great writer and his articles have been featured in such journals as Gourmet, Wine and Spirits,and Cosmopolitan.Finally, Jacques is the author of “Two for Tonight,” a collection of recipes that inspire romance through food and togetherness, and the “Chez François Cookbook,” the bible of classic Alsatian cuisine featuring some of the restaurant’s most popular recipes.
Postings on winemaker dinners at L’Auberge Chez Francois:
Domaine Weinbach Wines and Alsatian Food with Winemaker Catherine Faller, Alsace, and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer, Virginia
Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA
Anton Bauer and his Wines and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer and his Food at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, Virginia, with Klaus Wittauer of Kwselection, USA
Wining and Dining
What a feast - a fascinating combination of outstanding white and red wines from Austria and superb food from Alsace.
Hors d’oeuvres
Anton Bauer Rosé 2012 $13
Zweigelt-Syrah-Merlot. Clear, intensive pink; stimulating fragrant nose - floral and berry: clear, elegant structure; refreshing on the palate through its juicy acid; well cooled a marvelous patio wine for long summer evenings.
Warm Beets with Night Sky Farm Goat Cheese
Anton Bauer Rosenberg Gruner Veltliner 2012 $20
Beaming yellow with straw-gold reflexes: in the nose fine apple tones. Pear, quince, aroma of dried fruits with an exotic hint, exhibits pleasant spice; on the palate nutty-spicy-peppery, piquant fruit acid, juicy and stimulating; elegant, lively finish.
Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, Fresh Asparagus, Beurre Blanc
Anton Bauer Spiegel Gruner Veltliner 2012 $32
Fresh and spicy fragrance, with a strong body, delicate creamy texture and lively but pleasant adicity, making it a pure joy to drink.
Lamb Tenderloin aux Herbes du Jardin
Anton Bauer Wagram Reserve 2009 $35 (The 3 liter bottle, which we had, is $125)
Cabernet Sauvignon-Blaufränkisch-Zweigelt-Syrah-Merlot. Radiant ruby, spicy and racy in the nose, herb and cherry aromas.
Striking, pithy, and archaic robustness; fruity tones dominate the palate - cherry tones and dark berries, fine play of Austrian fruits and international style.
Apple and Apricot Strudel, Honey Ice Cream
Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner Ice Wine 2009 $33
This wine has a floral bouquet, with a hint of walnut, peaches, apricot and honey balanced and toasty fragrances on the palate.
The End
schiller-wine: Related Postings
The American Art of Joanne Roberts Wittauer and the Austrian Wines of Klaus Wittauer – A Taste of Art and Wines at the Curious Grape in Shirlington in the Washington DC Area, USA
“Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA
Tasting Leo Hillinger Red Wines with Leo Hillinger’s Assistant Winemaker Michael Hoeffken and US Importer Klaus Wittauer
Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria
Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA
Skype and Biodynamic Winemaking - Winetasting in the US with Winemaker Werner Michlits, Weingut Meinklang, in Austria
At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria
Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria
Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl in their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria
Martin Mittelbach from the "Tegernseehof" and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA
Domaine Weinbach Wines and Alsatian Food with Winemaker Catherine Faller, Alsace, and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer, Virginia
No comments:
Post a Comment