Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. There are four approaches to classifying wine in Germany. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the powerful group of German elite winemakers, the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten), which has conceived its own classification system. Other winemakers moved to a zero classification system – no classification, an approach very familiar in the New World. Finally, there is a fourth group of winemakers that have designed their own classification system.
Grosse Lage and Grosslage
A critical term in the VDP approach is Grosse Lage. This term looks very similar to Grosslage - a term used in the standard classification approach - yet they have very different, almost opposite meanings.
The Classification of the Law of 1971 and Grosslage
Let us start with Grosslage. The standard classification approach distinguishes between Grosslage and Einzellage vineyards. The vineyard area of a village is composed of a number of Einzellage vineyards (single vineyards). Combined, the Einzellage vineyards form a Grosslage vineyard (collective vineyard). For example for the village of Kiedrich in the Rheingau, there are 5 Einzellage vineyards: Sandgrub, Wasseros, Klosterberg, Turmberg, Graefenberg. The five of them combined form the Heiligenstock, which is the Grosslage of Kiedrich. Thus, you can find on the label, for instance, Kiedricher Graefenberg and Kiedricher Heiligenstock. The former indicates that the wine is from the single vineyard Graefenberg, while the latter indicates that the wine is from the village of Kiedrich, most likely from several different single vineyards.
See:
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany
The VDP Classification and Grosse Lage
In sharp contrast with the standard classification system, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest. The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):
• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)
Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.
Grosse Lage is the top quality category, the grand cru category, in the VDP classification.
Thus, a Grosse Lage is a top single vineyard in the VDP framework. A Grosslage is a collective vineyard, under which all the single vineyards of a village are subsumed. A wine from a Grosslage was made with grapes that did not make it into the Einzellage. A Grosslage wine is, as far as the vineyard is concerned, a very basic wine, a Grosse Lage is a crème de la crème wine.
See:
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany
Cutback on Use of Vineyard Names in the VDP Classification
Let us move on to the use of vineyard names by the VDP. Interestingly, the VDP has cut back drastically on the use of vineyard names, following Bourgogne.
First, the collective vineyards are no at all used in the VDP framework.
Second, among the single vineyards, only the best – the Grosse Lage and the Erste Lage vineyards – are used and make it to the label. All wines from other single vineyards will go into the wine with just the winery and the village on it (3. Level) or just the winery (4. Level) on the label. Thus if you see a vineyard on the label of a VDP producer, you can be assured that it comes from a top vineyard, either a from a Grosse Lage or from a Erste Lage.
Third, as a consequence, in the VDP framework you see only very few vineyard names on the label, like in the Bourgogne. If you see one, you can be assured that you have premium or ultra-premium wine in front of you.
Example: Weingut Weil in Kiedrich
In the case of Weingut Weil for example, you only find wines from
Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, Graefenberg (Grosse Lage)
Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, Turmberg (Erste Lage)
Weingut Weil, Kiedricher (Ortswein)
Weingut Weil, Rheingau (Gutswein)
All other vineyard names have been dropped. Graefenberg is the best vineyard, a grand cru vineyard, a Grosse Lage. Turmberg is also a very good vineyard, a premier cru vineyard, an Erste Lage. Wines from any other vineyards would only be marketed under the winery name plus the village name (Ortswein) or under the winery name plus the region (Gutswein).
See:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
Grosses Gewaechs
You might also run into the term Grosses Gewaechs. A Grosses Gewaechs is an ultra-premium dry wine from a Grosse Lage vineyard. Of course, you may also have sweet-style wines from a Grosse Lage and they will carry a predicate according to the sweetness level of the wine, such as Spaetlese or Auslese.
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