Monday, June 30, 2014

Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route - A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Cornelius and Fabian Lange


Picture: Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route - A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Cornelius and Fabian Lange

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium took place on May 26 and 27, 2014, at Schloss Rheinhartshausen in the Rheingau. Riesling experts from around the world - top winemakers, representatives from the trade and restaurant sector, and journalists – gathered to celebrate, discuss and taste the arguably most noble white grape in the world - Riesling.

I have already provided an overview about the 2nd International Riesling Symposium event: The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany and reported about particular events (see below)

This posting focuses on one particular event, a spectacular tasting, led by Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route.

Picture: Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route - A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Cornelius and Fabian Lange

For last year's Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, see:
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

For the 1st International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, see:
1.International Riesling Symposium
Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

Riesling in the World

There are about 47000 hectares planted with Riesling worldwide. Germany – with 22500 hectares – accounts for about half of the total. The second and third largest Riesling producer are the US (mainly Washington State and Finger Lakes Region) with 4800 hectares and Australia with 4100 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Alsace, Ukraine and Austria follow with 3500 hectares, 2700 hectares and 1900 hectares.

Overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine. In terms of quality wines, Riesling is usually included in the top three white wine varieties, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is highly terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of Riesling wines is clearly influenced by the wine’s place of origin.

The Tasting

1. Flight

Wein- und Sektgut Barth Rheingau
Barth Sekt Primus Brut, made from 2009 Hattenheim Hassel Erstes Gewaechs
2009 Hattenheim Hassel Erstes Gewächs

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: The same grape material in 2 different interpretations – as a sparkling wine and as a still wine. It is hard to believe that the 2 wines were made with the same grape material.

2. Flight

Weingut Rudolf Fürst Franken
2009 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Picture: Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst

Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber Rheingau
2009 Mittelheim St. Nikolaus Erstes Gewaechs

Weingut F.X. Pichler Wachau
2009 Duernstein Kellerberg Smaragd

Picture: Lucas Pichler, Weingut F.X. Pichler and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours

Weingut Hirtzberger Wachau
2009 Spitz Singerriedel Smaragd

Weingut Knoll
2009 Duernstein Schuett Smaragd

Pictures: Emmerich Knoll, Weingut Knoll, and Christian G.E. Schiller

Domaine Trimbach Alsace
2009 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile

Domaine Weinbach Alsace
2009 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvee Saint Catharine

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: A baroque, opulent style, with botrytis influence, is a common feature of these 7 wines. The Hirtzberger wine is a super-sized Riesling, the Knoll is peppery, the Weinbach is punchy and a bit bitter, which we like.

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Thesis # 1 – the message of Riesling is a mantra of diversity.

3. Flight

Weingut van Volxem Mosel
2010 Kanzem Altenberg Alte Reben VDP.Grosse Lage

Roman Niewodniczanski: We try to make our wines in a traditional style, low yields, old vines, a wine that is low in alcohol.

Picture: Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut van Volxem

Weingut von Winning Pfalz
2010 Deidesheim Kieselberg VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Bründelmayer Kamptal
2010 Zoebinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben Erste Lage

Picture: Willi Bründelmayer, Weingut Bründelmayer

Weingut Loimer Kamptal
2010 Langenlois Seeberg Erste Lage Kamptal DAC Reserve

Picture: Fred Loimer, Weingut Loimer

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: We find a lot of modern ideas in the Bründelmayer Riesling and more traditional ideas in the van Volxem Riesling, both wines are brilliant, the Bründelmayer Riesling is like a new-borne baby fresh in your hand, with the van Volxem, we have super slate sensations, a soft appearance, notes of litchis, roses, an amazing wine, the most interesting wine is the von Winning Riesling, we find a lot of acidity, but we also find oak, which is well integrated, a most-interesting interpretation of Riesling, the Loimer Riesling is pure freshness, pure acidity, a razor sharp interpretation.

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Thesis # 2 – Riesling is the Conchita Wurst of grape varieties – it is something in-between.

4. Flight

Gut Hermannsberg Nahe
2011 Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube VDP. Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Tesch Nahe
2011 Laubenheimer Kartaeuserhof Riesling trocken

Martin Tesch: We have lots of different soils. We like to keep things simple and short: one grape variety, no oak, screw caps.

Picture: Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch

Weingut Kühling-Gillot Rheinhessen
2011 Nierstein Pettenthal VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

H.O. Spanier: We produce bio-dynamic. We do not do anything. The wine ferments and we leave the wine alone to develop.

Picture: H.O. Spanier, Weingut Kühling-Gillot

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: The last 3 wines are very close together, very similar interpretations, a good trio from the southern, middle and northern parts of Germany

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Thesis # 3 – There is no reference wine in the world of dry Rieslings. This is not the case for noble-sweet wines (JJ Prüm, Egon Mueller, Weil, Dönnhoff).

5. Flight

Weingut A. Christmann Pfalz
2011 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Stefan Christmann: This wine shows very well what the Pfalz can do, spontaneously fermented, let the wine develop.

Picture: Stefan Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann

Weingut Dr. Loosen Mosel
2011 Uerzig Wuerzgarten Alte Reben Reserve VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Super soft, a lot of harmony in the wine.

Picture: Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen

Weingut Johannishof Rheingau
2011 Ruedesheim Berg Rottland Erstes Gewaechs

Picture: Johannes Eser, Weingut Johannishof

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Thesis #4 – on a global scale, Riesling is not very successful, acidity levels are often regarded as excessive, sweet-style Rieslings are completely out of fashion, Riesling is not a good dinner companion.

6. Flight

Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Mosel
2012 Winningen Uhlen “Blaufuesser Lay” VDP. Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Hans Wirsching Franken
2012 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Keller Rheinhessen
2012 Dalsheim Hubacker VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Thesis #5 – If Riesling would become a global player, success would kill it.

7. Flight

Weingut Wittmann Rheinhessen
2012 Westhofen Morstein VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Picture: Philipp Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann

Weingut August Kesseler Rheingau
2012 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Weingut Prinz
2012 Hallgarten Jungfer VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Picture: Fred Prinz, Weingut Prinz

Cornelius and Fabian Lange: Thesis #6 – It is best to let Riesling continue its freedom.

Postings about the 2014 International Riesling Symposium on schiller-wine

This posting is part of a series about the 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany. Here is a list of the Postings already published and those still coming.

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
A Tour through the Rheingau - Visits of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Wilhelm Weil, Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg
Rieslings from the New World – More Traditional than Rieslings from the Old World? A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Stuart Pigott, Germany
The Grand Cru Couple from VDP.Grosse Lage – Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese. A Tasting at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium, led by Giuseppe Lauria, Germany
Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route - A Tasting at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, Moderated by Cornelius and Fabian Lange
2. International Riesling Symposium: Tasting with Caro Maurer Aged Rieslings from around the World: Riesling and its Aging Potential
German Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
American Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
Austrian Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
New Zealandian Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
Australian Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany
Canadian Riesling Producers at the 2. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA 

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Aging Potential of Riesling – A Wine Tasting at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Germany Led by Jancis Robinson

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World – Snooth 2012

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

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