Monday, August 10, 2015

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015 - Rating Dry Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers

Pictures: Klaus Peter and Julia Keller with Timo Seiwert (Pinard de Picard) at Moore Brothers Wine Company, 33 East 20th Street in New York, with Annette Schiller. The Keller Gutsriesling came in as #2.

The BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015 took place in June 2015 in Berlin, Germany, orchestrated by Martin Zwick. 37 wines were included in the tasting. They were blind-tasted by a group of sommeliers, wine writers and wine retailers.

Picture: BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015

“Gutsriesling” is a combination of Gutswein (Estate Wine) and Riesling: Rated were wines that fulfilled the two criteria – being a Gutswein and a Riesling (from Germany).

This was the 4th BerlinGutsrieslingCup. See here for the previous years’s results:

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsweinrieslingCup 2014 - Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 – Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany

Gutswein

What is a Gutswein – Estate Wine? Gutswein is a term introduced and used by the members of the VDP association, Germany’s elite winemakers. A Gutswein is an entry level wine of a VDP member.

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. Effective with the 2012 harvest, the VDP classification system consists of 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

For more background information, see:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)
VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach  

Riesling

There are about 47000 hectares planted with Riesling worldwide. Germany – with 22500 hectares – accounts for about half of the total. The second and third largest Riesling producer are the US (mainly Washington State and Finger Lakes Region) with 4800 hectares and Australia with 4100 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Alsace, Ukraine and Austria follow with 3500 hectares, 2700 hectares and 1900 hectares, respectively.

Overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine. In terms of quality wines, Riesling is usually included in the top three white wine varieties, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is highly terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of Riesling wines is clearly influenced by the wine’s place of origin.

Martin Zwick and his Berlin Cups

Martin Zwick was initially known for organizing the BerlinRieslingCup every year. The BerlinRieslingCup is about Germany’s ultra-premium dry grand cru (Grosses Gewaechs) Rieslings from Grosse Lage vineyards. It typically takes place in the second half of September, following the release of the Grosses Gewaechs wines of the previous year.

In the following years, he added 3 other Berlin Cups: The BerlinGutsrieslingCup, which reviews and rates entry-level Rieslings. The BerlinKabinettCup: A ranking of off-dry, light Rieslings that carry the Kabinett predicate. Finally, the BerlinSpätburgunderCup, a ranking of German Pinot Noirs.

Thus, there are now 4 BerlinCups: BerlinRieslingCup, BerlinGutsRieslingCup, BerlinKabinettCup and BerlinSpätburgunderCup. 

BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015: Ranking

Picture: The Winners of the BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015

Bürklin-Wolf 87 Punkte
Keller 86 Punkte
St Antony "Rotschiefer" 86 Punkte
Kai Schätzel 86 Punkte
Wittmann 85 Punkte
J.B. Schäfer 85 Punkte
A.J. Adam 85 Punkte
A. Christmann 85 Punkte
Jülg 85 Punkte
Emrich-Schönleber 84 Punkte
G. Mosbacher 84 Punkte
Seehof 84 Punkte
Wagner-Stempel 84 Punkte
Klaus Meyer 84 Punkte
Battenfeld-Spanier Eisbach 84 Punkte
Battenfeld-Spanier 84 Punkte
von Winning WinWin 84 Punkte
Thörle 84 Punkte
Kühling-Gillot Quinterra 84 Punkte
K-H Gaul 84 Punkte
Schloss Johannisberg Gelblack 84 Punkte
Müller-Catoir 84 Punkte
Michel 83 Punkte
Markus Hees „Sandstein“ 83 Punkte
Flick 83 Punkte
Dönnhoff 83 Punkte
Diel 83 Punkte
Weil 83 Punkte
Schäfer-Fröhlich 82 Punkte
Meierer 82 Punkte
Weedenborn 82 Punkte
Katrin Wind 82 Punkte
Gunderloch 82 Punkte
Thomas Pfaffmann WAGECK Tertiär 82 Punkte
Katharina Wechsler 82 Punkte
Josten&Klein 82 Punkte
R. v. Buhl 81 Punkte

Comments

Martin Zwick and other tasters reported that there was a strong consensus that the Weingut Bürklin-Wolf Gutsriesling was the best. There was quite a distance between the 2 following wines (Keller and Sankt Antony), which kind of shared the #2 spot because they were very close in the ranking and that in the view of most tasters. From #4 downwards there were quite a number of wines were the views of the tasters differed significantly.

Markus Budai

Here are the notes of Markus Budai (in German) on the 3 top wines. Markus Budai was a member of the tasting panel and reported about the tasting on his blog.

Platz 1: Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling trocken 2014:

Die Trauben stammen aus Anlagen in Wachenheim, Deidesheim und Ruppertsberg. Ausbau fand sowohl im Edelstahl, als auch Doppelstück-Holzfass statt. Helles gold mit Reflexen. Im Bukett reife Frucht, mürber Apfel, reife Nektarine und gelbe Pflaumen. Am Gaumen zieht sich eine angenehme Phenolik entlang des Weins, etwas Grapefruit gesellt sich dazu. Für mich ein ganz typischer Pfälzer Riesling. Er wirkt ob der Struktur und Länge im Abgang athletisch. Angenehmes Spiel mit der Reife und herben Art des Gutsrieslings, machen den Wein zugänglich. Sehr verständlicher Gutsriesling! Davon kann man eine Flasche trinken!

Platz 2: Keller, Riesling trocken, 2014:

Eher zartes hellgold mit silbernen Reflexen. Die Nase verkörpert Äpfel und satte Steinobstfrucht. Dann kommt noch Grapefruit hinzu, auch Zitronen, etwas Salz und helle Blüten. Am Gaumen geprägt von schlankem Körper, super ruhig und harmonisch. Dicht verwobene Aromatik, etwas Grüntee, reife Birne, wieder etwas Zitrusfrucht. Dahinter klemmt sich eine feine Würzigkeit und gut integrierte Säure. Wird geleitet von einer hauchfeinen, sehr dezenten Phenolik und erscheint wie aus einem Guss. Enorm saftige Frucht, die dem Wein seinen Trinkfluss verleiht. Ein ausgesprochen vielschichtiger Gutswein.

Platz 3: Sankt Antony, Riesling “Rotschiefer”, 2014:

Riesling aus alten Reben. Spontane Vergärung, Ausbau in alten Doppelstückfässern und Stahltank. Keine Maischestandzeit, langsames Pressen. Tieferes vollgold, im Bukett Grapefruit, auch kräutrige Anklänge, etwas Schieferwürze. Auch am Gaumen wirkt der Rotschiefer enorm komplex. Etwas Zitrus- und Orangenschale, Tee und Nektarine bescheren Trinkfluss und Saftigkeit. Sehr verspielt und trotzdem bestens balanciert, fast schon erhaben wirkend. Ein Riesling mit Profil!

Tasting Panel

Katharina Racek – Weingut Dr. Loosen
Paula Reedes Sidore – Journalistin
Christoph Raffelt – Originalverkorkt.de
Frank Ebbinghaus – Stuart Pigott WEINHIER
Tom Schramm – Belvini.de
Florian Moosbauer – Planet Wein, Berlin
Jürgen Klucken – Riesling-Liebhaber
Michael Rausche – Riesling-Liebhaber
Johannes Baumann – Riesling-Liebhaber
Markus Budai – Weinwisser/ Budi’s Foodblog/ Gute Weine

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Berlin Cups)

Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2014, Germany
Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2013, Germany
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015 - Rating Dry Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsweinrieslingCup 2014 - Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 – Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany

Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2014, Germany
BerlinKabinettCup 2013 - Kabinett 2012, Germany

Germany's Best Pinot Noir Wines - BerlinSpätburgunderCup 2012/2014
BerlinSpaetburgunderCup 2011/2013, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Wine Consumption: Do Germans Drink Sweet or Dry Wine?

German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

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