Wednesday, March 16, 2016
Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany
The tour and tasting at Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim was “walking” tasting, i.e. we did a tour of the winery and tasted during the tour.
In the US, Weingut von Winning is represented by Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik.
Jessica Schönberg was our host.
Before the tour and tasting, we had a light lunch at Restaurant Leopold, which belongs to Weingut von Winning.
Deidesheim's heydays came at the beginning of the 19th century when estate owner Andreas Jordan was the first to produce high quality wines according to strict selection rules, and the first to introduce the Spätlese in Palatinate. Jordan is also the first to use the vintage, the grape variety and the vineyard site to characterize his wines, thereby setting the trend which will make Deidesheim world famous. When Jordan died in 1848, his enormous estate was split into three, a procedure which has become famous under the name "the Jordan Division." By it, the estates of Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl and Dr. Deinhard were formed, all of which became famous on their own.
In 1848, the winery bore the owner's name, Dr. Deinhard. When the owner died, the winery was taken over by his daughter and her husband, Captain Leopold von Winning, with the resulting change in name. The early 20th century was a golden age for von Winning, which also became one of the founders of VDP (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates). Later, with the owners changing once more, the winery became known as Dr. Deinhard again. Since 2007, the winery belongs to the group of the late Achim Niederberger and since 2009 carries again the name von Winning.
The Achim Niederberger Group (run after the untimely death of Achim Niederberger by his wife) owns not only von Winning, but also Bassermann-Jordan and Reichsrat von Buhl. The 3 estates, which had been divided for many years after the “Jordan Division” are united again. In the villages of Deidesheim, Ruppertsberg and Forst, the Achim Niederberger Group now owns about 150 hectares of the best sites.
Weingut von Winning was Terry Theise’s Winery of the Vintage 2013
Terry Theise: I hate giving this to the same estate twice in a row, but truth is truth, and VON WINNING is showing that their glorious collection in 2012 was no fluke, but instead the arrival at a lofty place they shall continue to set up house in. Believe me, I wondered. Because those astonishing ‘12s might have been lavished with pixie-dust from the weightless weight of the creamy vintage style. Would the ‘13s be arch and angular again? Not a bit of it. These guys are here to stay. It is conceivable that Von Winning ‘13s will be a little tiny bit less grand than their ‘12s, but it’s definite that their ‘13s are dramatically better than almost everything around them.
Weingut von Winning
Terry Theise: The fact that this estate is crafting some of the very best dry wines in Germany is no fluke, rather a result of nearly obsessive winemaker Stefan Attman’s commitment to both dedicated cultivation of Deidesheim and Forst’s best sites and meticulous work in the cellar. Under the same ownership and winemaking team, the Dr. Deinhard label is designated for fruity styles vinified in stainless steel while the Von Winning label is reserved for the Grosses Gewächs sites vinified dry and in wood. Von Winning maintains some of the oldest parcels in Grosses Gewächs vineyards smattered across Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. Attman’s every decision is informed by great enthusiasm and experiences at estates in the Cote d’Or and abroad. For example, Attman’s newer vines are planted at a very high vine density- 9500 vines per hectare, as opposed to the more typical less than 5000. This creates competition amongst the vines, forcing the roots to grow deep, naturally reducing yields. Attman has adopted the single cane trellising system, prevalent in Burgundy, and Grosses Gewächs wines ferment in 500mL French barrels. Von Winning practices organic and sustainable viticulture.
Attmann describes his winemaking as “not doing the wrong thing at the wrong time.” The estate’s premium wines are treated with a minimalist approach and with the highest respect in the cellar. Gentle clarification, a natural and spontaneous fermentation and the abandonment of fining agents create wines with a distinctive indigenous and very elegant style. Pumping the juice or wine is never necessary in the gravity flow winery, allowing for minimal, and gentle vinification.
•Vineyard area: 40 hectares
•Annual production: 23,000 cases
•Vineyard holdings: Deidesheim – Mäushöhle, Herrgottsacker, Paradiesgarten, Leinhöhle (all löss, loam, red sandstone) Grainhübel, Langenmorgen and Kieselberg (loam, red sandstone, limestone) Kalkofen (limestone, marl, loam); Forst – Ungeheuer (löss, loam, sandstone, basalt) Kirchenstück (sandy loam, red sandstone, basalt); Ruppertsberg – Reiterpfad (sandy loam, red sandstone, limestone)
Farming Practice: Practicing Organic
The Wines we Tasted
2014 Weingut Dr. Deinhard Weisser Burgunder Hummelbusch trocken VDP.Gutswein
2014 Weingut Dr. Deinhard Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling K trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2014 Weingut von Winning WIN WIN Riesling trocken VDP.Gutswein
2014 Weingut von Winning Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2014 Weingut von Winning Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2014 Weingut von Winning Ungeheuer Riesling trocken GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2014 Weingut von Winning Grainhübel Riesling trocken GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2012 Weingut von Winning Pinot Noir I trocken VDP.Gutswein
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