Friday, March 8, 2019

Dinner with Eve Faiveley, Domaine Faiveley, Nuits St. Georges, Bourgogne and 2-star-Michelin Chef Thomas Kellermann, Relais & Châteaux Park Hotel Egerner Höfe, Tegernsee, at the Rheingau Gourmet und Wein Festival in Hattenheim, Germany

Picture: Eve Faiveley of Domaine Faiveley, Nuits St. Georges, Bourgogne, with Annette and Christian Schiller

The Rheingau Gourmet und Wein Festival brings togather every year leading chefs and winemakers from around the world. The annual event is organized by Hans B. Ullrich, the owner of the Hotel and Restaurant Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim. It takes place during February/ March and lasts for about 2 and 1/2 weeks.

The Bourgogne tours by ombiasy WineTours of Annette Schiller typically include a visit and tasting of this prestigious Burgundy estate. The last time we were there was just a few months ago during the 2018 Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (See: Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Paris - Wine, Food, Culture and History, France).

Domaine Faiveley is close to our heart and it was an obvious thing to signed up for the dinner with Eve Faiveley of Domaine Faiveley Nuits St. Georges, Bourgogne and 2-star-Michelin Chef Thomas Kellermann, Relais & Châteaux Park Hotel Egerner Höfe in Rottach-Egern, Tegernsee. In addition to the eight world class wines of Domaine Faiveley, two wines of Weingut Balthasar Ress, Hattenheim, Rheingau, were poured as well as a Port Fonseca Vintage 2000.

The evening started with Sekt (NV Geldermann Brut Grand Rosé and Grand Blanc) reception in a party tent in the court yard of Hotel and Restaurant Kronenschlösschen, where people could mingle and had a chance to talk with Eve Faiveley. Amuse-bouches were served there.

Picture: Rheingau Gourmet und Wein Festival Organizer Hans B. Ullrich and Annette Schiller

Picture: Eve Faiveley and Annette Schiller

Picture: Eve Faiveley and Armin Diel

Picture: Christian Schiller, Armin Diel, Annette Schiller

Pictures: Amuse-bouches

Picture: Geldermann Sekt

We then moved to the large dining room of Hotel and Restaurant Kronenschlösschen.  Hans B. Ullrich welcomed the 120 guests and handed the microphone to Chef Thomas Kellermann, who explained what he was cooking for us. Hendrik Thoma then took over and led with Eve Faiveley through the evening with charme and wit.

Pictures: Kronenschlösschen Owner Hans B. Ullrich and Chef Thomas Kellermann

Pictures: Eve Faiveley and Hendrik Thoma

Domaine Faiveley

Domaine Joseph Faiveley is one of the biggest domains in the Bourgogne and, many would argue, one of the best. This illustrious company has been based in Nuits St Georges since the days of Pierre Faiveley who founded the business in 1825. His son Joseph gave his name to the family business, to be followed by (1) the first François, (2) Georges who was instrumental in founding the Chevaliers du Tastevin, (3) Guy who developed the business in the Côte Chalonnaise, (4) François who recently retired and (5) now his children Eve and Erwan.

Pictures: At Domaine Faiveley. See: Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Paris - Wine, Food, Culture and History, France

Guy Faiveley, a brilliant intellectual who had a collection of diplomas, had the difficult job of succeeding his very colorful father. Yet, with his impetus, the domain doubled in size. François Faiveley took over the domain at the age of 25. He was able to give it a new boost – using a precursor of the sorting table and carrying out cold macerations for example. At the same age as his father, Erwan Faiveley took over the domain in 2007, becoming the seventh generation. Recently, he was joined by his sister Eve.

Initially, the company was a classic négociant, buying and selling wine. Bourgogne wines started to experience greater fame in Louis 14th's reign, when those high up in the King's court and foreign ambassadors in Paris started to take an interest. It was against this background that Pierre Faiveley founded the négociant business in 1825.

Pictures: At Domaine Faiveley. See: Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Paris - Wine, Food, Culture and History, France

But from generation to generation, with a strong commitment to the quality of Burgundy’s patrimony, the Faiveley family has purchased vineyards and is today among the largest owners of classified vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise.

In 2013, Domaine Faiveley acquired 20 hectares of vines previously owned by Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot, which is based in Gevrey-Chambertin. All together, the firm now owns 123 hectares of vineyards among which 12 hectares are grands crus and 27 premiers crus.

Along with this focus, Erwan and Eve Faiveley and General Manager Bernard Hervet have renovated the cellars, which now boast state-of-the-art barrel presses, custom-designed wooden vats and among the finest, air-cured oak casks available in the world. Unlike many wine growers, Domaine Faiveley has united the management of its vineyards and its cellar under the direction of one technical director, Jerome Flous.

Pictures: At Domaine Faiveley. See: Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Paris - Wine, Food, Culture and History, France

The grapes are entirely destemmed and fermented in new custom-designed wooden vats for the finer wines, conical stainless steel tanks for the lesser cuvées. Fermentation is slow and at low temperatures.

Wines mature afterwards in oak barrels in 19th century vault cellars that offer ideal conditions for long ageing. These barrels coming from great coopers have been rigorously selected for their fine grain and light toast. Both premier and grand cru wines may receive two-thirds new wood.

Many of Faiveley's top wines are hand bottled with no filtration. This in turn results in clean, opulent wines that often show Pinot Noir at its best.

Faiveley’s white wines are both silky and powerful. They bring together purity, tension and minerality. The red wines are the perfect illustration of a successful marriage of elegance, precision and concentration.

This write up is based on what I learnt from Mathilde Nicolas during recent tours and tastings at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-Georges and the Faiveley web site, supplemented by the excellent write-ups on the web site of Berry Bros. and Rudd as well as Frederic Wildmann.

Pictures: At Domaine Faiveley. See: Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Paris - Wine, Food, Culture and History, France

2-star-Michelin Chef Thomas Kellermann

Thomas Kellermann went to the Hotel-Restaurant Erbprinz in Ettlingen in 1991 and in 1992 to the Wald- und Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe, where he joined the team of Chef Lothar Eiermann. In 1994 he moved to Munich for six years to work at the Tantris under Chef Hans Haas. He took up his first position as a chef in 2000 at Landhaus Nösse in Sylt, followed by two Berlin restaurants: 2001 Portalis and 2003 Vitrum. Here he was awarded a Michelin star.

From 2008 to 2018 he was the chef of the restaurant Kastell in the Hotel Burg Wernberg in Wernberg-Köblitz. In 2011 he was awarded the second Michelin star. Since June 2018, Thomas Kellermann has been at the Park Hotel Egerner Höfe in Rottach-Egern.

Picture: Chef Thomas Kellermann

The Dinner

Pictures: The Dinner

The Menu

Picture: The Menu

Picture: Champagne Pol Roger Brut Réserve

Picture: The Setting

Der Kleine Aal


Tegernseer Saibling


Seewolf


Krosser Schweinebauch


Brotsuppe mit Imperial Taube


Ananas


Petits Fours


Thanks

It was a great evening. Thanks Eve, Thomas and Hendrik.

Picture: Hotel und Restaurant Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Announcement: ombiasy WineTours in 2019 - Germany-North and Bordeaux

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

UPCOMING Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: March 1, 2019)

Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Paris - Wine, Food, Culture and History, France

Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador) – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Hattenheim/ Rheingau: Lunch in 3 Restaurants with 3 Winemakers and 3 Chefs: Adlerwirtschaft and Weingut Hans Lang - Kaufmann, Zum Krug and Wein- und Sektgut Barth, Kronenschlösschen and Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung, Germany

Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

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