At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Werner Michlits in Austria

Earlier this year I visited Werner and Angela Michlits at their Weingut Meinklang in the Burgenland in Austria, just a stone throw away from the Austrian border with Hungary. Weingut Meinklang is not a mainstream, conventional winemaker, but a – radical - biodynamic winemaker.

A number of things had come together, which made this visit possible and very enjoyable.

First, Siema Wines had organized a wine tasting with Werner in Washington DC, USA, where Werner was not personally present but virtually – via a Skype connection. Werner was sitting in his winery in Austria at 8:00 pm local time while we were sipping his wine at 2:00 pm local time in the US. He had opened the same wines we tasted, so we would show him the bottles via Skype and then he would sip and talk with us about the wines.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Werner Michlits in Washington DC

Siema Wines is a Virginia-based importer/distributor of fine wines from small to medium-sized wineries. Siema’s portfolio represents over 500 wines from all over the world and the majority of wineries represented are family-owned and operated. Founded and developed under the direction of Emanuele Gaiarin, Siema Wines today is a leading wine supplier in the Southeast and Midwest of the US. Klaus Wittauer is also importing Weingut Meinklang wines into the US.

Second, during the skyping session, Werner and I realized that my cousin, Dagmar Ehrlich, a German wine journalist, is one of his closest allies in terms of pushing ahead with biodynamic winemaking. In fact, before the skype tasting Dagmar had just visited him to discuss a common project.

Third, I went to Austria this summer to attend a wedding at Schloss Halbturn. As it turned out, Schloss Halbturn is also in the Burgenland and just half an hour by car away from Weingut Meinklang. So I set up a meeting after the wedding and my wife Annette and I spent a couple of hours with Werner at Weingut Meinklang.

The Michlits Family Mixed Farming Operation

The Meinklang winery is located in the village of Pamhagen, directly on the Hungarian border, on the southernmost tip of the Seewinkel region, in the flat part of Burgenland. Burgenland is one of Austria’s 4 wine regions – Lower Austria, Styria, Burgenland and Vienna. For many years it was a bit on the margin, although it has a log wine growing tradition. Burgenland belonged to Hungary until 1921 when it was annexed to Austria post WWI. It is a melting pot of Magyar, Slavic and Austrian cultures. Many of the towns have two names, one Croatian or Hungarian and the other name Austrian. The vineyard area of Burgenland totals 14.000 hectares.

Pictures; Angela and Werner Michlits

“Our estate represents what used to be common practice everywhere in the Pannonian countryside: a mixed farming operation, managed by an extended family” said Werner. Thus, Weingut Meinklang is part of a much larger mixed farming operation. The farm’s 3 main components are livestock, agriculture and wine.

Pictures: Weingut Meinklang

The whole Michlits family lives and works on this estate: Angela and Werner jun. with their 3 children, Werner jun. parents Werner sen. and Anneliese and his brothers Lukas and Hannes. Angela is the winemaker and Werner focuses more on the operational aspects of Weingut Meinklang.

Biodynamic Principles

The whole mixed farming operation is done on the basis of biodynamic principles, following the principles of Rudolf Steiner (www.demeter.org.au): As early as the beginning of the 20th century some farmers realized that industrial methods of agriculture were causing ecological damage. They invited the anthropologist Rudolf Steiner to explain his thoughts on this issue and in 1924 Rudolf Steiner held a total of eight lectures at Koberwitz near Breslau in which he presented a comprehensive treatise on the scientific principles governing the interrelationship between nature and agriculture. Rudolf Steiner made well-defined recommendations for agricultural practices in individual areas.

This philosophy revolves around the farm as an agricultural operation whose plants and animals become integrated parts of their natural environment. The fundamental objective of biodynamic cultivation is the creation of a farm as a self-sufficient living organism through the keeping of cattle, production of its own seeds and feed, fertilization with farm-produced compost or manure and the growing of leguminous plants. Adherence to these principles leads to a harmonization of the living relationship between soil, plant and animal. A healthy soil produces healthy plants, which in turn supply the nutritional requirements of man and animal.

Instead of industrially manufactured chemical fertilizer and sprays containing toxic substances, bio-dynamically managed agriculture employs the use of special herbal, quartz and dung preparations, which are of vital importance for the production of compost and for the care of soil and plants. This continuous composting process with farm-produced manure and compost preparations creates the basis for a living soil. Preparations derived from cow-dung and medicinal plants such as chamomile, dandelion and valerian support the process that creates fertility. Similar to the principles of homeopathy the stirring of these substances into water creates a dynamic force that acts as a carrier of life. A preparation produced in this manner is applied as a fine spray in vineyards and fields and takes effect.

It is of fundamental importance that all processes are applied at the right time. The art of Demeter-cultivation lies in choosing the right time of application. This requires sensitive understanding and long experience in order to be able to observe and make use of the rhythms of the earth and the cosmos. The influence of the cosmos on flora and fauna has been positively proven. An Australian study conducted at the University of Adelaide has shown that bio-dynamically cultivated vines exhibit a significantly better growth of roots.

Biodynamic Principles and Weingut Meinklang

Some wine people declare that biodynamics is bogus, a hoax. Others approach the concept with almost religious reverence. After spending a couple of hours with Werner, it became clear that he is a true biodynamic fundamentalist. The depth of his faith was hard to miss … or to resist.

“At the center of our mixed farming operation is our herd of Angus cattle” Werner said. He explained that these good-natured beasts of the steppe are wonderfully adapted to the Pannonian grasslands and are not only an aesthetic addition to the Seewinkel landscape, but they also complete an ecological circle. “We keep approximately 300 mother cows and calves at present and our goal is to eventually extend the number of mother cows alone to 300.” In addition, the Michlits are breeding a special kind of pigs - Mangalitsa pigs - on the farm. “Cattle, horses, and pigs - our animals are of very special significance, as they serve a very useful purpose by providing manure for our farm. In turn their feed comes from agricultural produce from our own farm. Their excrement is composted and processed and subsequently becomes a valuable source of natural dung for our vineyards and fields – a unique occurrence in the wine lands of Austria.”

Work in both the vineyards and cellar is carried out with due reference to the phases of the moon as well as of various stellar constellations. The estate has been certified as an organic producer by the DEMETER association since 2005. There might not be a more careful and well-run biodynamic wine estate anywhere in the world than that of Meinklang.

Weingut Meinklang

“Meinklang is more than a fancy name” Werner said “There is more behind it”. “Mein” = “My” Means: the personal signature of the young winemaker couple Werner Michlits and his wife Angela. And “Klang” = “sound” symbolizes: the harmony with nature. The wines are intended to fully reflect the nature, in which they arise.

The Vineyards

The vineyard area totals 55 hectares. We did not have a chance to visit the Meinklang vineyards, but Werner explained that the vineyards are surrounded by natural ponds and wild herbs such as meliot, vetch, red clover and wild grasses, which offer a domicile for beneficial insects and soil organisms. These wild plants along with the wild herbs in the vineyard are in competition with the vines for water and nutrients and provide gentle, desirable stress for the vines which contributes positively to the development of aroma an phenols in grapes.

With over 2000 hours of sun per year, not only do the red varietals (70%) such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Merlot or Cabernet ripen excellently, but the white Grüner Veltliner with its typical peppery nose (“Pfefferl”, as the Austrians say) is also very convincing. “Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch are our most planted grape varieties and are the typical varieties that best reflect our region. The white wine varieties (30%) are also indigenous and include Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Gris – varieties that nicely highlight the character of the region.”

Weisssee and Graupert

There is one particularly noteworthy vineyard, Weisssee, the source of the fruit for the Graupert. Here, the ancient principle of giving the vines maximum freedom is practiced, i.e. the vines are not pruned at all. “Our Pinot Gris vines are a special experiment for us. We abstain completely from pruning and let the vines grow wild. In the way a natural metabolism is achieved the vines regulate the production of fruit on their own. The vines yield an above average number of bunches with extremely small berries. The yield volume is thus smaller than normal. This brings the advantage of a high skin to fruit flesh ratio and thus more aroma, extract and complexity. Because the vineyard has a truly “unkempt” appearance, it receives the local dialect word for this, “Graupert”, as its name.”

The Wine Cellar and the Concrete Eggs

When it comes to wine making, Werner felt that there was little to say about the winemaking facilities. “Because we do as little as possible there.” Indeed, working gentle and hygienic in the cellar is nothing special anymore, but the Michlits’ doing it without chemicals is. Of course, fermentation takes place with wild yeasts as they appear naturally in the vineyards and the cellar. The wines are not pumped over in the cellar, both musts and wines are moved only with the aid of gravity.

Picture: In the Weingut Meinklang Cellar

One thing that hits you when you tour the wine cellar of the Michlits’ is the army of concrete eggs. Typically winemakers age their wine in stainless steel tanks, wooden barrels or in the bottle. The Michlits’, however, have constructed 100 concrete eggs and age the wine in these eggs. Werner was inspired by the egg the way it appears in nature. From his point of view the egg is nature’s ideal form for making wine. Werner and Angela believe that if the wine ages in these eggs, it develops the finest aromas and, most importantly, the highest rate of natural stability. So, less sulfur, for example, is needed.






A Very Mystic Room: In the Stone Cave Below the Winery

Towards the end of the tour, Werner led us to a very mystic room - a stone cave below the winery, where Werner showed us his magic cow poop and other ingredients for biodynamic farming. The cow poop comes from the bovines that live on his farm, and he ages and ferments it in horns from those very same cows. The manure is then rolled into small, hardened balls, which he handed to us. They were cold and smooth and smelled clean.

Pictures: Werner Michlits and Annette Schiller in the Stone Cave

The Michlits in Somlo, Hungary

The Michlits’ also grow vine in Somlo in Hungary. With 800 hectares, Somlo is one of the smaller wine regions of Hungary. Most of the vineyards are on the slopes of an almost symmetrical, cone-shaped, dormant volcano, crowned by the ruins of an 11th century castle, rising from the plains of the Tapolca Basin. It is a fascinating view when you approach the region. Mainly autochtone Hungary grapes are grown here: Juhfark (Sheep’s Tail), Hárslevelű (Linden Leaf), Furmint and Olaszrizling (Welchsriesling). The Somlo wines tend to be dry and full-bodied, with a salty pure mineral character, bright acidity and a rich texture.

Picture: Somlo in Hungary

Interestingly, after Weingut Meinklang, our next stop was in Somlo, visiting Istvan Stephan Spiegelberg the following day.

Meinklang Organic Ale

The Michlits’ also make a biodynamic beer, created with ancient and traditional grain varietals unique to the region, called Urkorns. The Meinklang brewery is the only Demeter brewery (organic) in the world.

In the Tasting Room

We finished up in the modern tasting room, next to the concrete eggs, where we sampled quite a number of Weingut Meinklang wines.

Pictures: In the Tasting Room

Weingut Meinklang Wine Portfolio

Here is a summary of the Weingut Meinklang wine portfolio.

Picture: Meinklang Wines in the USA

WEISSWEINE (White Wines)

Grüner Veltliner Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 11.5 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.8 g/l | Restzucker: 3.1 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert (certified) : Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

Graupert Grauburgunder Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 13.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 5.6 g/l | Restzucker: 3.3 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

Welschriesling Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 11.5 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 5.2 g/l | Restzucker: 3.0 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

Burgenlandweiß (Welschriesling, Grüner Veltliner, Weißburgunder)Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 11.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.2 g/l | Restzucker: 5.4 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie

ROTWEIN (Red Wines)

Burgenlandrot (Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent)Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 13.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.1 g/l | Restzucker: 2.6 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

Zweigelt Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 13.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 5.7 g/l | Restzucker: 1.1 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

St. Laurent Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 13.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.0 g/l | Restzucker: 0.7 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter



Zwerest (Zweigelt and St. Laurent) Jahrgang: 2008 | Alkohol: 13.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.2 g/l | Restzucker: 1.7 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

Blaufränkisch Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 13.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.1 g/l | Restzucker: 1.3 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

Blauburgunder Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 13.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.0 g/l | Restzucker: 1.6 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

SOMLO WEINE (Wines from Somlo)

Juhfark (German: Lämmerschweif) Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 13.0 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 5.2 g/l | Restzucker: 6.8 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie und Hungaro Öko Garantie, in Umstellung auf Demeter

Hárslevelü (German: Die Lindenblättrige) Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 12.5 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 5.1 g/l | Restzucker: 4.7 g/l, trocken, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie und Hungaro Öko Garantie, in Umstellung auf Demeter

SÜSSWEINE (Sweet Wines)

Ausbruch Rösler Jahrgang: 2005 | Alkohol: 12.5 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 8.6 g/l | Restzucker: 84 g/l, süß, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

Eiswein Weißburgunder Jahrgang: 2008 | Alkohol: 8.5 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.4 g/l | Restzucker: 145 g/l, süß, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

Auslese Grauburgunder Jahrgang: 2007 | Alkohol: 8.5 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.4 g/l | Restzucker: 145 g/l, süß, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter

PERLWEIN (Sparkling Wine)

Prosa Blauburgunder Rosé Jahrgang: 2009 | Alkohol: 10.5 %vol. | Gesamtsäure: 6.4 g/l | Restzucker: 16 g/l, süß, zertifiziert: Austria Bio Garantie | Demeter



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Visiting Dade and Petra Thieriot and their Dee Vine Wines - Purveyors of Fine and Rare German Wines - in San Francisco, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dade Thieriot

Those of us in the world who are interested in rare and old German Wines surely know Dee Vine Wines in San Francisco. Dee Vine Wines is a purveyor of fine and rare German wines. It is one of the best sources in the world for older German wines. As such, the portfolio of Dee Vine Wines differs significantly from those of say Terry Theise and Rudi Wiest, two well known US importers of German wine.

When I recently was in San Francisco, I dropped by Dee Vine Wines and had a short chat with the founder and co-owner Dade Thieriot. Unfortunately, his young, charming wife, co-owner Petra Thieriot was not around when I was there. I had met Petra and Dade a year earlier at the 1. International Riesling Symposium in Germany, where Dade had led - with Jancis Robinson - a tasting on the Aging Potential of Riesling.

To find Dee Vine Wines at Pier 19 was not easy. To find Pier 19 was easy, but when we were standing at the large gate of Pier 19, my wife wanted to turn around and move on. Because all she initially saw was a garage with parking cars. But then I detected a big sign with Dee Vine Wines and I knew we were right.

Pictures: Dee Vine Wines at Pier 19 in San Francisco

Dee Vine Wines – Purveyors of Fine and Rare German Wines

I was taken by the collection of old and rare German wines that Dade stores at Dee Vine Wines. You can buy these through the internet at up to 5 digit prices, as, for example the Schloss Vollrads Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 1911. Dee Vine Wines buys wine cellars. A spectacular purchase was the acquisition of the Ludwig Balz Trockenbeerenauslese Collection of nearly 2000 bottles in 2004/05.

At least twice a year, in the future probably more often, Dade flies over to Germany to taste the new vintages and also inquire about and taste older vintages from the libraries of well-known wineries. He then makes group buying decisions, imports directly and offers the wines to the Dee Vine Wines customers, mainly via internet and special programs. "Since my marriage to Petra it is really more like three and sometimes four trips. Believe it or not, last year I went six times!" Dade said.

Pictures: Dee Vine Wines Collection of Rare and Old Bottles

Dee Vine Wines currently has four different wine subscription programs. "But this will change soon" Dade said.

Dade and Petra Thieriot

Dade began his career in the wine business back in April, 1974 in San Francisco at a company called Connoisseur Wine Imports, which specialized in rare Bordeaux, Sauternes, vintage ports, old Burgundies, and German wines. His early interests were Bordeaux, but then one day someone tasted with him a bottle of 1971 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt and he was totally floored! ”I could not believe how beautiful were the wine's aromas of fresh apple blossoms, mineral flavors, and refreshing acidity with hints of honey and a gentle kiss of botrytis--in a word, magical. I was immediately transformed from someone who thought he only could only be passionate about red wines to a Riesling freak!” he said. Dade was also astounded by the modest cost of such magnificent wines as compared to what he was shelling out for the average French wine.

Pictures: Dade Thieriot

Many years later in 1996, he founded Dee Vine Wines after having heard from many friends that there was no longer anywhere in the Bay Area that offered a decent selection of German wines, and even then they seemed over-priced by comparison to what they had been accustomed to when Connoisseur closed its doors in 1992. So when he decided to set this company up his primary focus and goal was to reinstate a fine selection of German wines in the local market.

Pictures: Dee Vine Wines at Pier 19 in San Francisco

The inaugural catalog, which appeared in October of 1998, featured stories about six different German estates from the Rheingau, Nahe and Mosel. One of those producers, Josef Rosch, in Leiwen is still one of our stalwarts to this day. Dade also offered some rarities from other countries as well as a handful of Burgundies.

“10 years later, on May 1, 2009, a wonderful thing happened. I met Petra Grünewald at a friend's home on the eve of my 59th birthday. She was studying international wine marketing and finance at the Lehr-und-Forschungsanstalt in Geisenheim (Rheingau), which is the equivalent of the oenology and viticulture school at the University of California (Davis). She had been invited to my importer friend's for dinner to give her the opportunity to ask about doing an internship at DVW, and although I must admit she was not only beautiful and from the Mosel, internships are an opportunity we have offered many other foreign students since we began. To make a long story short, two months later she arrived for her three month visit, and we fell in love--way in love! So much so that we got engaged in Vienna over this past New Year and ten days later we were married in a private ceremony at the Redwood City courthouse on January 10th.”

Picture: Ingo Swoboda, Dade Thieriot, Jancis Robinson and Wilhelm Weil at the 1st International Riesling Symposium in Hattenheim in 2010, Leading a Tasting on the Aging Potential of Riesling

Since then, Dee Vine Wines is in a major restructuring of the entire company. Six months later, by mid June, everyone who had begun the year at DVW had either resigned or been laid off--a brand new leaf! As of the start of the year Petra and Dade had offered German, French and Spanish wines in addition to rare older wines from Europe, but they have decided to move into the direction of their greatest passion--German wines and Mosel Riesling! In the coming months, as Petra and Dade move the inventory to a new location, and the office to another place due to the Americas Cup in 2013, they will commence the process of gradually eliminating and phasing out the French and Spanish portfolios.


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Who Drinks Germany’s Wine? The US Remains Germany’s Most Important Export Market, German Producers are Eying China – 2011 First Half Numbers

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with German Star Winemaker Ernst Loosen, who is very export-oriented

The numbers are in for Germany’s performance in terms of wine exports during the first half of 2011. Overall, Germany produces 7.2 million hectoliters of wine annually, of which 5.7 million hectoliters, or about 80%, is consumed in the country and 1.5 million hectoliters, or about 20%, is exported. See here for more information on who produces and who consumes wine in the world.

German wine exports were down in the first half of 2011. In volume terms, they fell by 15% to 766 000 hectoliters; in value terms, they fell by just 2% to 174 million Euros, as the entry level wines were more affected than the premium wines by the decline.

The US remains the most important export market for German wine, with total sales increasing by 5% to 52 million Euro. This is almost 1/3 of total German wine exports.

The UK follows with Euro 19 million. But wine exports to the UK were down by 16%, mainly because of poor performance of entry-level wines.

The Netherlands are close behind the UK, with Euro 18 million. Exports fell by 3%.

In Norway, German wines have been leading the white wine segment in the past few years. This positive trend continued in the first half of 2011 with a growth rate of ten percent. "The Norwegian market is a good example of our global strategy. After focusing on Riesling in recent years in Norway, we are now shifting to other varieties such as Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner and Pinot Noir," said the Director of the DWI (Deutsches Wein Institute), Monika Reule.

China is by far the most dynamic market, up by 87%. However, this is from a low base of 20,000 hectoliters, or Euro 6 million. But the development of the local wine market is so promising that the DWI will expand next year's activities in China. It is expected that China will soon become the largest wine market in Asia for German wine exports, ahead of Japan.


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Visiting Erhard and Evelyne Heumann and their Heumann Wines in Villany in Hungary

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Erhard and Evelyne Heumann in Villany, Hungary

I visited the Villany wine region during the summer of 2011 and focused on 3 winemakers: Joseph Bock, Attila Gere and Erhard and Evelyne Heumann. Bock and Gere are big names in Hungary and increasingly so in the international wine market. Heumann Wines is in a different category, also producing exceptional wines, but not yet having the glamor of the Bock and Gere wines.

Frank Dietrich from the Blue Danube Wine Company introduced me to Erhard Heumann and we had dinner together in Washington DC. Erhard was in Washington DC to introduce his wines to the US market.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Erhard Heumann in Washington DC

Hungary has a Long History of Winemaking

Wine was introduced to Hungary by the Romans. During the Turkish occupation beginning in the early 16th century, displaced Serbs brought the red Kadarka grape to Eger, which was the basis for the red wine blend that later became known as Bull's Blood. It was also during the Turkish occupation that the Tokaji region became known for dessert wines, harvested late to encourage noble rot. After the Ottoman Empire ceded Hungary to the Austrians in 1699, the Germanic influence was felt with the introduction of grape varieties such as Blauer Portugieser. Under Communism, quality was neglected in favor of over cropping and industrial production. Since 1989, when the Berlin Wall came down, there has been an impressive rebound.

Hungary’s Wine Regions

Hungary has 22 designated wine regions, in all 4 corners of the country. Some people consider the red wines from Szekszárd and Villány in southern Hungary, where the Heumann wines come from, to be the cream of the crop. Around Lake Balaton, you will find the Balatonfelvidék, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Balatonboglár, and Badacsony regions. Further to the North, the Somló hills and Sopron region also offer fine wine. I have reported about the wines of Istvan Stepahn Spiegelberg from Somlo here.

Pictures: Erhard and Evelyne Heumann in Villany with their Award-winning Wines

The vineyards of the Tokaji region were classified long before Bordeaux, already in the 1700s, with vineyards grouped into 3 categories depending on the soil, sun exposure and potential to develop noble rot. Noble-sweet Tokaji has been Hungary’s crowning glory for hundreds of years. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, noble-sweet Tokaji was a cherished wine enjoyed by the European Courts.

Villany

The wine region of Villany has about 2.100 hectare under vine on the hills of Villány and Siklós. Local Kekoporto and Kekfrankos - which are in the German speaking world known as Blauer Portugieser and Blaufrankisch - are cultivated next to international Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Picture: Villany

Under the Turkish occupation, Villány was completely destroyed. When the Danube Swabians came, they brought with them the Kékoportó and other grapes. During the communist era the fine wine of Villány basically disappeared. After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, the family-owned wineries re-emerged. These, with Attila Gere and Joseph Bock leading the way, have succeeded in making Villány wines famous again.

Villany is a picturesque little town, with cute little whitewashed wine cellars with bright-colored doors and shutters located on the main street next to each other. Near the villages rows of wine cellars were built. From the small press-houses short cellars opened. This is where the harvested grape was transported, and then processed. They are open for tasting, but I did not have an opportunity to check them out.

Heumann Wines

Heumann Wines was founded in 1995 by Evelyne and Erhard Heumann. “My father-in-law had some business to do in Villany and went there. He came back with the business deal, but also with a couple of hectares of vineyard land, a lease of a 40 year old vineyard with Kékoporto (Blauer Portugieser) in Villány. Originally, we thought this to be something for our spare time, but over the years it has grown into a major undertaking.”

Pictures: Erhard and Evelyne Heumann in Villany

In the first year, Heumann Wines produced 500 bottles. 10 years later, output had increased to 6,000 bottles. “We are now at around 30.000 bottles” said Erhard “and we plan to increase production to 40.000-50.000 bottles”.

I did not see any Heumann wines in the wine stores in Budapest. Erhard later confirmed that Heumann Wines is very export-oriented and only very little is sold in the domestic market. This should not come as a surprise as Evelyne and Erhard do not have the inside track in Hungary, as they moved only recently to the country. Against this background, “we realized that we must try to achieve international recognition. We therefore send our wines to international competitions and have already received a number of awards. In 2010, Heumann Wines was included for the first time in the Johnston Wine Guide. We are successfully exporting to a number of European countries, including Switzerland and Germany, and now we trying to establish ourselves in the US” said Erhard. Exports currently account for 90% of total production.

In the Vineyard

Evelyne and Erhard live in a cute little house right in the middle of the vineyards of Siklos. Work in the vineyards (and in the winery) is lead by a young Hungarian professional with an enological degree and work experience in several German wine estates. “We hope that he will soon be joined by our son who is studying to become a winemaker” said Erhard. Total vineyard area is 4 hectares.

Pictures: In the Vineyards

In the Winery

Until the 2002 vintage, the Heumanns did not have their own winery, but their wines were made at a winery in Villány. Since 2004, they have their own state of the art winery and wine cellar. Evelyne and Erhard showed us around in their winery, which is located in the center of Siklos.

Pictures: At the Heumann Wines Winery

Dinner with Evelyne and Erhard Heumann at their Home in Villany

We spent a lovely afternoon and evening with Evelyne and Erhard Heumann in their garden and had dinner with them. Evelyne and Erhard were also so kind to offer us to stay 2 nights at the house of Evelyne’s sister, who comes only to Villany for vacation.

Erhard comes from the beer belt in Germany, Bavaria. He grew up with beer in Munich. He became interested in wine only later in life, after he had met his wife Evelyne. Interestingly, he met Evelyne in the US – in Las Vegas. As a student, he was touring via Greyhound the US and at the Greyhound station in Las Vegas he run into her. “From then on” he said ”we toured the US together. Back in Europe she soon moved in with me”. They eventually settled in Switzerland, where they still maintain a home.

Until very recently, Erhard had a full-time job as a banker in Zuerich in Switzerland, while Evelyne worked full time at the winery in Hungary. Wasn’t this a bit cumbersome? “Well, if I went by car, yes – 13 hours“ Erhard said ”but if I took the early morning flight from Zurich to Budapest and then a group taxi from Budapest to Villany and I was at our winery at lunch time.”

Pictures: Dinner with Evelyne and Erhard Heumann

Thus, it was Evelyne, who did all the ground work in Hungary, while Erhard was orchestrating the operation from Switzerland (and securing the cash flow). This has changed now. Erhard has retired and works full time in Siklos at Heumann Wines.

My wife Annette and I enjoyed a fantastic barbeque dinner with Heumann wines in the garden of Evelyne and Erhard, overlooking the Heumann vineyards. It was gorgeous. We tasted pretty much the whole Heumann Wines portolio.

The Heumann Wines Portfolio

Here is what Heumann Wines currently offers, with winemaker notes.

The Wines of Heumann Wines at the Hungarian Embassy in Washington DC in 2010

Merlot 2007

100% Merlot, Harvest 1.2 kg /vine, Dark ruby color. Thick, opulent, very well integrated tannins. Lot of black berry fruit und plums. Super texture, long lasting.

Kékfrankos 2007

100 % Blaufraenkisch, 1.0 kg / vine, Medium dark purple. In the nose some vanilla, plums, raspberries. Mouth filling concentrated yet supple wine with fruity aftertaste. Very good body, long lasting.

Cuvée Segreto 2007

50% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% other varieties, Harvest 1.5 kg /vine, Dark ruby color. Liquorice nose. Black-berries, chocolate and spices on the palate. Concentrated and full bodied. Good structure and well integrated tannins. Very long aftertaste.

Cabernet Franc 2008

100% Cabernet Franc, 1.0 kg / vine, Deep dark ruby colour. In the nose vanilla, blackberry, cassis. In the taste dark choco-late, cassis again, spices. Powerfull wine with creamy texture. Fine structure. Long aftertaste.

Kékfrankos 2008

100 % Blaufraenkisch, 1.0 kg / vine, Medium dark purple. In the nose some vanilla, plums, raspberries. Mouth filling concentrated yet supple wine with fruity aftertaste. Very good body. Long lasting.

Terra Tartaro 2008

40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot. 1 kg / vine, Dark ruby colour. First impression in the nose is cassis, underpinned with a fine smell of tobacco and chocolate. The tannins as well as the acidity structure are very well integrated. The wine is balanced and elegant yet powerful. Very long lasting in the mouth.

Heumann & Heimann 2008

This is a interregional blend with wines from Zoltan Heimann in the Szekszárd region, north of Villany, and wines of Heumann. 100% Blaufraenkisch, Harvest 1 kg /vine, Wine made from the best Blaufraenkisch wines of the Heumann and the Heimann winery. It combines the strengths from the terroirs of the both regions (Villany and Szekszard) – power and fruit. Elderber-ries in the nose and on the palate. Sour cherries and Pecan nuts in the back. Complex and deep wine with a long finish.

Chardonnay 2008

100% Chardonnay, 1.5 kg / vine, Brilliant yellow colour. Overwhelming per-fume of apricot blossoms, brioche and hazelnuts. Full-bodied and creamy with a hint of lemon grass on the palate. Complex and concentrated. Beautifully balanced.

Chardonnay 2009

100% Chardonnay, Harvest 1.5 kg /vine, Light yellow with bright greenish reflexes. Intensive flavors of apple and apricots. Fruity lemon acidity. Well integrated in the creamy body. Well balanced. Long lasting.

Rosé 2010

Blaufraenkisch, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, 2 kg / vine, Salmon colour. In the nose sour drops. Full bodied yet underpinned with gorgeous fruit. Some cassis. Relativly long aftertaste.

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