A Sparkling Wine for the Summer: Dr. L Riesling Sparkling – A German Sekt from Weingut Dr. Loosen, Germany

Picture: Ernst Loosen with a Glass of Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

Dr. L Sparkling is 100% pure Riesling - the crisp, fruity grape that has made German wine famous for centuries. It is made using the Charmat method, which produces bright, clean sparkling wines in a more affordable wayRecently, Ernst Loosen was in town (Washington DC) and I had several opportunities to meet up with him. I bought several cases of his wines, including a J. Christopher Pinot Noir, a wine he makes in collaboration with Somers in Oregon, and his Dr. L Riesling Sparkling, a wonderful German Sekt for the summer at a very attractive price.

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, with a Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

For the upcoming ombiasy wine tour to Germany, which will include a visit of Weingut Dr. Loosen and a tasting with Ernst Loosen, see: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Weinrallye #64: A Sparkling Wine for the Summer

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "Sparkling Summer Wine”. Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany.

Picture: Weinrallye #64

This month's wine rally is organized by Thorsten Jordan with a little help from his friends). The theme is: A Sparkling Wine for the Summer. I have chosen to write about the Dr. L Riesling Sparkling from Weingut Dr. Loosen.

Ernst Loosen in the World

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.

Picture: Ernst Loosen

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

See:
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein 
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA 
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

Ernst Loosen makes both a still and a sparkling Dr. L.

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine produced for a global market. It is made by Ernst and Thomas Loosen (Loosen Bros.). Ernst explained: “Dr. L comes exclusively from traditional vineyards with steep slopes and slate soil. This introductory, non-estate wine embodies the elegant and racy style of classic Mosel Riesling. By working closely with growers on long-term contract, we are able to assure excellent quality in every vintage.”

Dr. L Riesling Sparkling is the sparkling sibling of the (still) Dr. L. It is like the Dr. L 100% pure Riesling. It is made using the Charmat method, where the second fermentation is done in a pressurized tank to keep the bubbles in the wine. This method produces bright, clean sparkling wines in a more affordable way, which makes it possible to offer this charming bubbler at a very nice everyday price.

Picture: Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

As is usual with Riesling — especially from a cool climate like Germany’s — a juicy touch of sweetness was left in the wine to balance the naturally brisk acidity. What you end up with is a refreshing, fruit-driven sparkler that’s a pleasure to drink any time. It’s a great choice for summer parties on the lawn, a Wednesday evening at home, or any time you need a little sparkle in your life.

Alcohol: 12.0% Residual sweetness: 27.8 grams/liter Total acidity: 6.4 grams/liter pH: 3.06

Sekt – German Sparkling Wine

Not well known outside of Germany, sparkling wine has a long, rich tradition in Germany, where it has been called “Sekt” since the late 1800s. Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range. In addition to Sekt, Germany produces semi-sparkling wine, which is called Perlwein. But the production of Perlwein is small.

There is a dozen or so large Sekt houses. They produce more than 2.000.000 bottles each annually. Most of these large Sekt houses were established in the 1800s. At that time, there was only one method known to produce Sekt, the méthode traditionnelle. But in contrast to the champagne houses, the large Sekt houses have all moved to the charmat method as main method of the second fermentation after World War II. Like the champagne houses, Sekt houses do not own vineyards, but purchase the base wine from winemakers.

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC

The smaller Sekt houses, like the large Sekt houses, do not own vineyards, but also buy the base wine from winemakers. They also tend to have a long history and often links to the champagne region, beautiful facilities and old cellars for the second fermentation and storage. The big difference is that they typically have not gone the route of tank fermentation but continue to ferment in the méthode traditionnelle.

Finally, increasingly, there is a number of top quality winemakers, who, in addition, to their still wines, have started to include Sekts in their portfolio. These Sekts are typically vintage Sekts, from a specified vineyard, made of specific grapes, often Riesling, in the méthode champenoise and with little or not dosage (brut or extra but).

See also:
German Wine Basics: Sekt
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France
German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein 

Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC

German Wine Basics: Sekt

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France

German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA

Picture: Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre in Bordeaux, Christian G.E. Schiller and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin at Boxwood Winery in Virginia

Anne Cuvelier from the Cuvelier family (that owns, inter alia, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux) was in town (Washington DC) for the Heart’s Delight Event. On the side, Annette Schiller from wine tours by ombiasy organized a winemaker dinner with her at Eola on P Street in Dupont Circle in Washington DC. Anne also wanted to visit Virginia wineries. We visited 3 of the leading wineries in Virginia, all three of them intertwined with Bordeaux: Boxwood, Linden, RdV.

For more on the visits with Anne Cuvleier, see:
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre in Bordeaux, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Touring Virginia with Anne Cuvelier, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux (forthcoming)

See here for the Leoville Poyferre Dinner at Eola:
Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

For upcoming ombiasy wine tours by Annette Schiller, see:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

In the Barrel Cave: Vintage 2012

We stared with the 2012 vintage. These wines are currently in barrels and not yet blended. That gave us the opportunity to taste different grape varieties at this very early stage of winemaking. In Boxwood’s barrel cave, barrels lie atop rocks that serve as humidity controls, and the room was constructed underground to help in maintaining a constant temperature of 55 to 65 degrees.

Pictures: Tasting in the Barrel Cave

The Merlot was soft and smooth with notes of cassis and cherries and some hints of vanilla. The Cabernet Franc was clean with characteristic pepper notes. The Petit Verdot was inky with concentrated plum flavors. The Cabernet Sauvignon exhibited lovely flavors of black cherries and also a bit of plum.

In the Tank Room: Vintage 2011

From the barrel cave, Rachel led us to the tank room, where the 2011 vintage, already blended, was resting.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tank Room

In 2011, September rainfall and little sunshine raised concerns of botrytis and sour rot; therefore, Boxwood opted for selective harvesting. Clusters that contained over 50% rot were not collected, and salvageable clusters were sorted berry by berry. The result? Lower yields but clean fruit.

2011 Topiary

Topiary is the St. Emilion-style blend with Cabernet Franc as the primary grape.

Garnet in the glass, notes of strawberry and garden herbs on the nose, on the palate silky with firm tannins, good finish with strawberry and spice flavors. This blend was already aged in French oak barrels for twelve months, and upon bottling it should continue to develop quite nicely.

2011 Boxwood

Boxwood is the Medoc-style blend with Cabernet Sauvignon as the primary grape.

Deep purple in the glass, notes of blackberry, dark plum, cigar box, with some anise on the nose, silky smooth with round tannins on the palate, intense finish of dark fruits. This blend was already aged in French oak barrels for twelve months, and upon bottling it should continue to develop quite nicely.

In the Tasting Room: Vintage 2010

We then went to the tasting area, to try the 2010 Boxwood and Topiary, which are already bottled.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tasting Room

2010 Topiary

61% Cabernet Franc 39% Merlot

Garnet in the glass, notes of strawberry, pepper, tobacco on the nose, lush dark fruit on the palate and with a subtle pepper flavor.

Boxwood 2010

56% Cabernet Sauvignon 43% Merlot 7% Petit Verdot

Full bodied with well-structured ripe tannins, blackberry dominates the palate with a long and smooth finish.

In the Library: Vintage 2007

We also tried the 2007 vintage, which according to Rachel was the first true vintage for Boxwood. 2006 was the first, but she does not count these wines.

2007 Topiary

Plum and red berry on the nose, broad mouth feel, nice blue fruits and cassis with a little leather on the palate, finishes with ripe tannins.

2007 Boxwood

Notes of blackberry, cassis, and dried cherry, coupled with a pinch of saddle leather on the nose, a lovely concentrated wine, with low acids, big fruit, and low-to-medium tannins.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tasting Room

Boxwood Winery

The Boxwood Winery is located in Middleburg in the midst of picturesque Loudoun County in Virginia in the US. It is owned by John Kent Cooke, a former owner and president of the NFL Washington Redskins. Boxwood aims high: to make premium red wines with Bordeaux grape varieties and a distinct Virginia expression. Boxwood produces 5,000 cases per year.

John Kent Cook bought the estate in 2001 and commissioned renowned architect Hugh Jacobsen - with the advice of Dr. Richard Vine, Professor of Enology at Purdue University - to design a modern winery that agrees with its surroundings. The result – completed in 2005 - is a stunning four-part complex, filled with high-quality, high-tech streamlined inner workings.

The center is a reception room with a circular stainless steel tasting bar.

This space overlooks the circular cave that is totally underground and fitted with a dome ceiling. The cave fits 255 (currently housing 75) French oak barrels arranged in concentric circles.

The third structure, on the same level of the other three, is the chai with 12 stainless steel fermentation tanks.

The fourth structure houses the bottling plant and case storage.

The 170-acre property once served as a horse farm, owned in the early 1900s by General Billy Mitchell (otherwise known as the father of the Air Force) who lived there until his death.

Pictures:Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller and Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferréin St. Julien. For more see: Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Vineyards

Sixteen acres of grapes are planted on the property. The vineyard is monitored by a GPS custom designed system to record viticultural practices. Currently, 8 varieties of grapes grown: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Tannat, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Malbec, and Carmenere.

Wine Making Approach

The Estate grown grapes are hand harvested, brought to the winery and sorted. After being destemmed on the press pad, the whole, uncrushed grapes go through a temperature-controlled, whole-berry fermentation in the stainless steel tanks. “When berries are not crushed, wine ferments little by little, which adds to the complexity” explained wine maker Adam McTaggert over lunch. Then “punch-downs, pumpovers, and delestage are performed.” Once fermentation is complete, the wine is pumped through stainless steel pipes into 100 percent French oak barrels nestled in the hillside cave room. Malolactic fermentation takes place in the barrels. After aging for up to a year, the wine is pumped to the bottling room, where Italian machinery fills, corks, and labels the bottles on the premises.

Rachel Martin

Rachel Martin, Executive Vice President of the winery and the owners’ daughter, oversees the vineyard, winery, and national and international sales. No stranger to the wine business, Rachel studied Viticulture and Enology at Napa Valley College and Sensory Evaluation at the University of Bordeaux (School of Enology).

Pictures: Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville- Poyferre in Bordeaux, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin at Boxwood Winery in Virginia, USA

Rachel is Boxwood’s world ambassador and her relaxed and inviting presence immediately put guests as ease. “We want Virginia wine to be on the international playing field,” she enthuses, but notes, “You’ve got to start at home. You have to increase your quality for your local consumer.”

Stephane Derenoncourt

John Kent Cooke brought famed French flying winemaker Stéphane Derenoncourt to consult with Boxwood. Stéphane Derenoncourt is entirely self-taught. He and his wife now work with a populous portfolio of estates in Bordeaux and elsewhere, including Domaine de Chevalier, Canon-la-Gaffelière, Smith Haut Lafitte, Prieuré-Lichine and Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse. In June 2008, Derenoncourt and Vignerons Consultants were hired by Francis Ford Coppola to work on the Napa Valley property Rubicon Estate Winery.

schiller-wine: Related Posting

Northern Virginia Magazine October 2012: Wine Recs from Local Winos

Visiting Jennifer Breaux Blosser and Breaux Vineyards in Virginia, USA

Virginia Wines Shine in San Francisco - 2012 San Francisco International Wine Competition, USA

Judging Virginia Wines in Suffolk, Virginia - Virginia Wine Lover Magazine Wine Classic 2012

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia – A Profile, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Book Review: "Beyond Jefferson's Vines - The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia" by Richard Leahy, USA

An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA

Vineyard Walk, Wine Tasting in the Vineyard and Lunch in the Tarara Tank Cellar with Wine Maker Jordan Harris, Tarara Winery, USA 

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany 

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Kick-off of the “Summer of Riesling 2013” with Chef Driss Zahidi, a (German) Dr. Loosen, an (Austrian) Tegernseehof and an (Alsatian) Trimbach Riesling at Le Mediterranean Bistro in Virginia, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Chef Chef Driss Zahidi at Le Mediterranean Bistro

In the US, June 21 was the Kick-off Day of the Summer of Riesling 2013 that runs until September 21. Hundreds of restaurants in the US are celebrating the Summer of Riesling with special Riesling offerings on their wine menus. Annette Schiller (Ombiasy Wine Tours) and I decided to kick-off the event at Le Mediterranean Bistro, a new restaurant that Chef Driss Zahidi opened just a few weeks ago in the Washington DC area. We were joined by 5 friends and our son-in-law Chris. We had a fantastic evening with Chef Driss Zahidi’s outstanding French food and Rieslings from Dr. Loosen, Trimbach and Tegernseehof.

Summer of Riesling 2013

What is the Summer of Riesling? The Summer of Riesling concept was created in 2008 when Manhattan restaurateur and Riesling fanatic Paul Grieco (Hearth Restaurant, Terroir E.Vil, Terroir, Tribeca and Terroir Murray Hill) decided that during the summer the ONLY white wine that Terroir customers could get was Riesling. The following years the Summer of Riesling expanded in various ways, initially by enlisting other Manhattan wine bars as part of the celebration. In 2011 Paul took the Summer of Riesling to the national level. Here is a link to the restaurants in the US and elsewhere that are participating in the 2013 Summer of Riesling.

Picture: A (German) Dr. Loosen, an (Austrian) Tegernseehof and an (Alsatian) Trimbach Riesling at Le Mediterranean Bistro in Virginia, USA

See more:
Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States

Le Mediterranean Bistro

Le Mediterranean Bistro is located right in the center of old Town Fairfax, in the larger Washington DC area. Opening the door to the restaurant, I immediately was enveloped by a very positive vibe; a cosy, intimate French Bistro, which brought back good memories from the days when I lived in Paris in the 7th arrondissement. You could mistake Le Mediterranean Bistro for a bistro in Paris.

Pictures: Le Mediterranean Bistro in Fairfax, in the larger Washington DC Area

Chef Driss Zahidi

Le Mediterranean Bistro is the fulfillment of a dream that Chef Driss Zahidi, whom we know for many years, carried along since he arrived in this country more than 10 years ago. Chef Driss was born in Casablanca, Morocco in 1974, the eldest of five children, and he became his mother’s steadfast helper in the kitchen. In 1988 he graduated with a master’s degree in Physics Option Thermal Energy from a university in France. Yet, he never worked in that field. Instead, he pursued a career as a chef. Chef Driss Zahidi never attended culinary school but his chemistry background has proven very helpful when connecting the dots between cuisines from his native Morocco, Spain, Italy and France as he has perfected his skills as a chef.

Pictures: Chef Driss Zahidi, Zakaria Echchami and the Large Blackboard

When he moved to the US in 2000, Driss got a job with Le Petit Mistral in McLean, which featured Provencal cuisine in an upscale French dining atmosphere. It was there, were our ways crossed: I as a lover of French food and Driss as a line chef of Le Petit Mistral. His next stages were the Corner Bistro (Executive Chef), just next to Le Petit Mistral, the celebrated Evo Bistro (Co-owner and Executive Chef) and Bistro Vivant (Executive Chef). Now, he has opened Le Mediterranean Bistro, where he is fully in charge and sole owner.

Still talk of the town (in McLean) is the Corner Bistro, now closed, a small Tapas restaurant and wine bar, with Chef Driss Zahidi in the back and womanizer Sidney Sakho in the front. Here, Driss impressed with his native North African twist on traditional Tapas classics. At celebrated Evo Bistro, Chef Driss Zahidi’s cooking earned him top billings from the Washington Post and other regional publications. At newly opened Bistro Vivant, he helped to set the new French bistro on a successful path.

See:
Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

The Setting

Now: Le Mediterranean Bistro - in the former Persian restaurant Sabzi space- with 55 seats. Le Mediterranean Bistro does not have a bar, where you can hang around for happy hour or eat when you are by yourself.

Pictures: Le Mediterranean Bistro in Fairfax, in the larger Washington DC Area

There is a big chalkboard of specials on the wall, similar to the one of Chef Driss’ previous gig, Bistro Vivant in McLean.

Pictures: Le Mediterranean Bistro in Fairfax, in the larger Washington DC Area

The bistro’s small crew includes Driss’ brother, Hicham, who used to work at Evo Bistro and also at Bistro Vivant with Driss.

The Wines

The wine list is mostly French, but also includes other areas, starting from around $30 up to $300 per bottle. It is an excellent selection. Some of the wines can be ordered by the glass. Our focus that evening was on the Rieslings that we brought along, but we later shifted to a Chablis, a Gigondas, both for around $60, and a Linden Claret for $58 (from Virginia).

See on Linden:
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA

The Food

The food is classic French bistro food, with Mediterranean and Moroccan flair. Chef Patron Driss Zahidi: “I am aiming for an elegant and unsurpassed modern French cuisine by using the very finest seasonal ingredients and employing both classic and modern techniques. I work with local farmers to get the best and freshest ingredients.”

Fuad Issa: "I have known Driss for ten years, I continue to be amazed by his creativity and his ability to balance different subtle flavors." Annette Schiller: “I loved the flavors, the combination of spices - the menu leaves my mouth watering for more.”

What we Ate

Starters

Drunken Kiss Oysters

Onion Soup: Five onions soup with gruyere cheese

Escargots

Main Courses

Scallops Provencal: With tomato, capers, olives, basil and Chablis

Alaskan Halibut: With saffron, cauliflower and beurre blanc

Sole Meuniere

Lamb Chops: In black olive sauce with spinach

Ravioli: Butternut squash ravioli with mushrooms and sage cream

Desserts

Tiramisu

Crème Brûlée

Chocolate Ice-cream

Other Tempting Suggestions

Oeuf Pôche Meurette: Poached Organic Amish egg in a red wine sauce, mushroom duxelle, caramelized onions and bacon

Salade Lyonnaise: Frisée lettuce, Lardon, poached egg, bacon vinaigrette & toasted brioche

Terrine De Foie De Volaille: Chicken liver mousse served with toasted brioche and pickled beets
Octopus Kebab: Grilled octopus served with fennel relish and niçoise tapenade

Nouilles aux Fruits de Mer: House made tagliatelle with langoustine, scallops, mussels, razor clams in creamy sauce
Loup de Mer: Mediterranean Sea Bass in papillote with braised fennel, tomato and scallions

Dajaj Tagine “Cooked Sous Vide”: Moroccan style seasoned Virginia Amish Chicken breast with preserved lemon, red olives and onions in saffron jus

Lamb Shank: Moroccan style braised lamb shank with tagine spices, served with couscous, baby carrots and turnips & rich lamb jus

Onglet Steak Minute: Sautéed hanger steak served with oxtail potato galette and mushroom & horseradish nage

Steak au Poivre: Dry aged Local NY strip loin steak served with local farms spring vegetables and green peppercorn sauce

3 Dry Rieslings from Germany, Alsace and Austria

We started the evening with 3 Rieslings:

NV Dr L Sparkling Wine Riesling from Weingut Dr. Loosen in Germany

See more on Dr. Loosen:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

The upcoming Ombiasy Wine and Culture Tour to Germany will include a stop at Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen with Erni Loosen:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

2009 Riesling from Domaine Trimbach in Alsace

See more on Domaine Trimbach:
With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC
Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace

2010 Riesling from Weingut Tegernseehof in Austria

See more on Tergernseehof (KWSelection)
“Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA
Martin Mittelbach from the "Tegernseehof" and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA

Riesling

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Pictures: Chef Driss Zahidid and his Happy Guests

Dry and Sweet Riesling

Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes. The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these exceptions, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented.

Pictures: Chef Driss Zahidid and his Happy Guests

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. There are principally two methods applied in Germany – but neither in Austria nor Alsace - for making these sweet-style Rieslings. First, you do not let the fermentation run its course and stop it; as a result, you get a deliciously sweet and low alcohol wine. Second, you let the wine fully ferment to a normal alcohol level and then add Suessreserve (sterilized juice) to achieve the desired degree of sweetness. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US.

Pictures: Chef Driss Zahidid and his Happy Guests

Summer of Riesling Party in Washington DC with Annette and Christian Schiller

If you are in Washington DC on July 21, please join Annette and Christian Schiller for a "Summer of Riesling" party from 6 pm to 9 pm at their home in McLean, VA. Please bring a bottle of your favorite Riesling, dry, fruity-sweet, noble-sweet, from Germany, Alsace, Austria, Finger Lakes, Virginia or anywhere else in the world and rsvp to aschiller@ombiasypr.com.

Picture: Chef Driss Zahidi and Christian G.E.Schiller at Evo Bistro, a few Years ago

See:
Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

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