Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Kuenstler in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Gunter Künstler, Weingut Kuenstler in Hochheim (Rheingau), Armin Huth, Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen (Franken) and Doerte Naekel, Weingut Meyer Naekel in Dernau (Ahr) presented their wines during a winemaker dinner at Kronenschloesschen in Hattenheim (Rheingau), prepared by Chef Sebastian Loehr and his team. For each of the five courses, Gunther Kuenstler, Armin Huth and Doerte Naekle had selected a wine that in their view would go very well with the course and we could decide who had made the best choice to go with the food.

The dinner was part of a vintage presentation of the three wineries at Weingut Franz Kuenstler during the weekend.

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschloesschen in Hattenheim

Weingut Kuenstler

Over the past 4 decades the Kuenstler estate has been one of the most successful wine producers in the Rheingau, if not in Germany. I have watched it rising from a small winery to one of the world leaders of German wine. It has 5 F’s (out of 5) in the Feinschmecker WeinGuide ranking.

The wine growing tradition of the Künstler family can be traced back to Southern Moravia in 1648. After the Second World War, the Künstlers had to leave their home in what is now the Czech Republic and the head of the family, Franz Künstler, laid the foundations in Hochheim for what was to become one of the most successful family businesses in the Rheingau. I remember very well the small row house in Hochheim that was the initial home of the Kuenstler winery. And I remember very well the wonderful tastings we had at the Kuenstler estate. All my life I have been buying Kuenstler wines and there is quite a number of Kuenstler bottles in my wine cellar in McLean, Virginia.

Pictures: Gunter Kuenstler and Christian Schiller at the Dinner

His son Gunter Künstler bought the Geheimrat Aschrott'sche Erben wine estate in Hochheim in 1996 and in doing so acquired a major share in the very best vineyard locations in Hochheim. A few years ago, as another giant leap, the Kuenstler estate moved into the former Burgeff Sektkellerei, just at the entrance of Hochheim, when you come from Mainz. It is very impressive. Just recently, Gunter Künstler has teamed up with a winemaker from Ruedesheim (a friend from the days when Gunter studied in Geisenheim and lived in Ruedesheim) and is now also making wines from Ruedesheim.

See also:
Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany
Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84
Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany
Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma
World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Weingut Wirsching

The Wirsching family has been producing wine since 1630 in the village of Iphofen, one of the top wine centers in Franken. Today, Weingut Wirsching is one of the largest privately-owned winery in Germany.

Dr. Heinrich Wirsching is the owner and in charge of the estate. He is over 80 years of age but looks rather juvenile. While he is still the boss in every-day business, he is actively supported by his daughters Andrea and Lena as well as by management team. Andrea Wirsching, in her fifties, re-joined the family recently to assist her 20 years younger half-sister Lena. They carry on 350 years of family wine making tradition, with the General Manager Dr. Uwe Matheus, Wine maker Werner Probst and Marketing Chef Armin Huth, who we had the pleasure to meet at the dinner.

Armin Huth explained that all work in the vineyards is done with one goal in mind, that of producing the best wines that nature will permit. This includes pruning to yield a meager 65 hectoliters/hectare, using predominantly organic fertilizer and very late, often high risk harvesting.

Pictures: Armin Huth at the Dinner

The vineyards are all steeply sloping with good south to south/west exposure. They include the Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg, Kronsberg, Kalb, and Grosslage Iphöfer Burgweg. There is a small holding in the Roedelseer Küchenmeister.

Over 35 years ago Wirsching was the first estate in Franconia to plant Scheurebe in its vineyards. Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are at this juncture produced in very small quantities. Because there is high demand, plans are to increase the production of both.

Cellarmaster Werner Probst vinifies 75% of the wines in the franconian dry style (Fränkisch trocken) which means residual sugar of less than 4 grams/liter. Even traditionally made Spätlese's rarely have residual sugar levels exceeding 15 grams/liter. Vinification is "reduktiv" which implies little oxygen contact with the juice. Suessreserve is never used.

The vineyard area is 72 hectares. Output amounts to 48,000 cases. Grapes: 38% Silvaner, 18% Riesling, 10% Müller-Thurgau, 8% Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), 6% Scheurebe, 7% Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), 5% Dornfelder and 8% others. Best vineyard sites: Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg and Iphöfer Kronsberg.

Weingut Meyer Naekel

Weingut Meyer Naekel was established by the marriage of Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel. Although Willibald Näkel only cultivated 1.5 hectares of vines he was already a pioneer for the then rather unusual dry red wines from the Ahr valley. Today’s 15 hectares estate is managed by his son Werner Näkel, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dőrte. We had the pleasure to meet Dőrte at the dinner.

Doerte Naekel explained that in 1982 her father Werner Näkel changed his career from a grammar school teacher of mathematics and sport to take over the family estate. With his pronounced feel for quality in viticulture, and great cellar skills, he created a new style for Pinot Noir in the Ahr. By the end of the 80’s, Werner Näkel had earned a reputation for his forward-looking wine-making and won numerous awards for his excellent red wines. Meike and Dörte Naekel served apprenticeships in wine estates before studying viticulture in Geisenheim. They have now joined the estate’s team – Meike in 2005 and Dörte in 2008.

Vineyard acreage: 15 hectares. Production: 6 000 cases. Average yield: Less than 50 hl/hectare. Best vineyard sites: Walporzheimer Kräuterberg, Dernauer Pfarrwingert, Bad Neuenahrer Sonnenberg. Grape varieties: Pinot Noir (75%), Fruehburgunder – an early ripening variety of Pinot Noir (12%), Pinot Blanc (5%), Riesling (5%), others (3%)

Pictures: Doerte Naekel and Christian Schiller at the Dinner

Doerte Naekel: “We see our wines as regional ambassadors that embody the character of the sites and the people involved in the making. Fruity and mineralic wines with an elegant tannin structure grow along the Ahr’s steep slopes on slate soils. It has always been a Näkel philosophy to preserve and to accentuate the wines’ individual terroir. We achieve this with old vines, conscientious vineyard site management, consistent yield reduction and careful harvesting by hand. This is the basis for healthy, fully ripened grapes and wines full of character, great balance and intense aroma. The varietal character and quality, achieved in the vineyard site, is retained by gentle handling of the grapes in the cellar. Naturally, it also takes a whole team of motivated staff.”

The Ahr is situated just north of 50˚ latitude, which most people consider to be the boundary for viticulture. The Ahr valley is Germany’s most northern red wine area and with just about 550 hectares, it is also the smallest. In order to ripen to perfection red wines require a lot of sunlight and warmth. The secret lies in an ideal micro climate found in the Ahr due to special geological conditions. The steep south-facing vineyard slopes are perfectly angled towards the sun. The soil formed from weathered slate and Greywacke warm up easily and are able to store heat. Hence, the grapes grow in an ideal biotope of the narrow Ahr valley that is protected by the Eifel Hills.

Werner Naekel - Winegrower of the year 2004 - Gault Millau 2004– Wine Guide Germany: “Hardly anyone in Germany has had a stronger effect on the production of high-quality red wines in Germany than Werner Näkel, whom we proclaim, to a certain extent, for the work of his lifetime to ‘Winegrower of the year 2004’… The authority of the German red wine miracle of the 90's made the Spätburgunder from the Ahr valley internationally respectable. Meanwhile, his wines, which this globetrotter produces in South Africa and Portugal, excite attention.”

Werner Naekel also produces wine in South Africa and Portugal. In South Africa, it is a joint venture with Neill Ellis in Stellenbosch. In Portugal, he makes wine in the Douro valley. Here, Werner Näkel acquired together with his two friends Bernd Philippi (wine estate Köhler Ruprecht/Palatinat) and Bernhard Breuer (wine estate George Breuer/Rheingau) the Quinta da Carvalhosa in the year 2000.

Kronenschloesschen and Chef Sebastian Luehr

Mr Hans Ullrich bought the country manor, built in the 19th century, in 1990. The ensuing restoration lasted 2 years. The hotel’s modern comforts and up to date technology merges sensitively with the original architecture. The hotel has 18 guest rooms and suites.

Pictures: Kronenschloesschen

For many years, the restaurant was run by Patrick Kimpel. Under his leadership, it earned a Michelin star. When Patrick Kimpel left, his Souschef Sebastian Lühr took over. Sebastian Lühr did his apprenticeship in the Kronenschloesschen and then spent time at Landhaus Scherrer in Hamburg, with Hans-Stefan Steinheuer in Bad Neuenahr and with Joachim Wissler in Bergisch Gladbach, before returning to Eltville in 2007.

Pictures: Chef Sebastian Lueth and his Team with Christian Schiller

See also:
Restaurants in Germany with a Top Selection of German Wines

Dinner and Wines

Reception

Pictures: Two Ultra-premium Sekts for the Aperitif

Pictures: Ladies - Annette Schiller, Monika Kuenstler, Yvonne Richardt and Doerte Naekel

Gebeizter Saibling / Gurke / Dill / Jakobsmuschel

Weingut Kuenstler: 2012 Ruedesheimer Drachenstein Grosses Gewaechs Riesling Trocken – this was my favorite.
Weingut Wirsching: 2011 Sister Act Silvaner Trocken
Weingut Meyer-Naekel: 2012 *Illusiion* Blanc de Noir Trocken

Glacierte Enten-DimSum / Petersilie / Steinpilze

Weingut Kuenstler: 2009 Hochheimer Hoelle Erstes Gewaechs Riesling Trocken
Weingut Wirsching: 2011 Iphoefer Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling Grosses Gewaechs – this was my favorite.
Weingut Meyer-Naekel: 2012 Fruehburgunder Trocken

Geschmorte Schulter vom US-Fleisch / Zwiebelsoubise / Bohne

Weingut Kuenstler: 2006 Hochheimer Reichestal Spaetburgunder RR Trocken – this was my favorite.
Weingut Wirsching: 2008 Tri Terra Cuvee Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder Chardonnay Trocken
Weingut Meyer-Naekel: 2011 “Blauschiefer” Spaetburgunder Trocken

Rehrücken / Sellerie / Himbeere

Weingut Kuenstler: 2011 Hochheimer Reichestal Grosses Gewaechs Spaetburgunder Trocken
Weingut Wirsching: 2008 Spaetburgunder “S” Trocken
Weingut Meyer-Naekel: 2011 Bad Neuenahrer Sonnenberg Spaetburgunder Trocken – this was my favorite.

Quitte / Crème fraîche / Honig / Popkorn

Weingut Kuenstler: 2011 Ruedesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese – this was my favorite.
Weingut Wirsching: 2011 Iphoefer Julius-Echter-Berg Rieslaner Auslese

New Vintage Presentation at Weingut Kuenstler

The dinner was part of a vintage presentation of the three wineries at Weingut Franz Kuenstler during the weekend.

Pictures: At the Vintage Presentation of Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel and Wirsching at Weingut Kuenstler in Hochheim

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung in Hattenheim (Eltville) - "Weingut" (Winery) and "Kunstkeller" (Art Gallerie)

Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung in Hattenheim (Eltville), Rheingau, is a member of the VDP – the association of German elite wine producers and makes excellent wines under the leadership of owner Peter Winter. Jointly with his wife Elvira Winter, Peter Winter also owns an Art Gallerie in Wiesbaden (Galerie Winter). When Peter Winter, who was the CEO of a leading German wine merchant for many years, retired from this job and bought Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung, Galerie Winter branched out and established “Galerie Winter im Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung”. The old wine cellar of Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung was transformed in a gallerie with fascinating modern art work (see belwo). In addition, Galerie Winter im Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung organizes periodically art exhibitions at the winery. Currently (until April 30, 2014), the exhibition “Painted Winetasting” by Nina Stoelting is on display. I attended the opening reception on September 21, 2013 at Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung in Eltville.

For an earlier profile of Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung see:
A Combination of Extraordinary Wine and Art: Peter Winter's Georg Mueller Stiftung Estate in Germany

Nina Stoelting and a Painted Winetasting at Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung

The exhibition presents 10 paintings in which Nina Stolting tries to transform the aromas of wine into paintings via different structures, surfaces and colors. All 10 painted wines consist of a number of individual paintings, up to 8 different paintings for one wine. Not only individual grape varieties like Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are painted, but also specific wines, like a 2010 Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling. They cost between Euro 2500 (Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004) and Euro 6200 (Pinot Noir, 2002).

Pictures: Opening Reception of a Painted Winetasting by Nina Stoelting at Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung in Hattenheim

Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung

Georg Müller, the co-owner of the famous Eltville sparkling wine cellar, Matheus Müller, established the estate towards the end of the 19th century. In 1913, he donated the estate to his home community of Hattenheim: with the stipulation to use the profits for the benefit of the needy in the community. Thus, the Wine Estate became the Georg Müller Stiftung, owned and run by the local government.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Peter Winter at Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung

Things changed dramatically in 2003, when the local government decided to privatize the estate, which had produced good wines until the 1970s, but since then had deteriorated. Peter Winter purchased the Estate and – after many decades of a “Dornroeschenschlaf” - revived it, obviously with sizable financial investments and his enthusiasm and dynamism. Part of the credit also goes to Alf Ewald, the energetic young winemaker, he hired.

Peter Winter

When you spent an afternoon at Peter Winter’s Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung in Hattenheim in the Rheingau, you are a bit reminded of Donald Hess. Donald Hess and Peter Winter appear to be on the same journey, that of wine and art.

Picture: Peter Winter, Annette Schiller and Madeleine Jakits, Editor-in-chief of the leading German Food and Wine Journal Der Feinschmecker, in Berlin at the 100th Birthday of the VDP. See also: A Grand Ceremony in the Berlin Cathedral on the Occasion of the 100th Anniversary of the VDP - the Elite Winemakers of Germany

Peter Winter’s journey started in 2003, when he purchased the Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung. Before that turning point in life, Peter Winter was for over 40 years in various key positions in the German wine industry. Importantly, for 18 years he was the Chairman of the Board of one of the ten largest wine companies worldwide. He is also President of the German Wine Exporter Association and teaches at the University of Geisenheim.

The Wine and Art Cellar

The cellar has become in part a museum. In addition to fulfilling its traditional role as the place to stock and age wines, the cellar is also a show room for modern art.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Elvira Winter at the Painted Winetasting Opening Reception

Most of the modern art exhibited in the cellar was produced specifically for the wine cellar. The climatic conditions in the cellar needed to be taken into account in creating the art. Consequently, the sculptors and painters typically worked with stone, metal, silicon or plastic and painted behind glass, Plexiglas or on MDF panels.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung

It is a fascinating setting down there in the cellar: a large space of about 1000 m2 and 250 years old. It can be used for various purposes, including receptions and wine tastings.

Alf Ewald

Alf Ewald is the architect behind the excellent George Mueller Stiftung wines. He was awarded the “young vintner of the year” prize in 2003. In terms of winegrowing and winemaking philosophy, Alf Ewald points out that as much as possible is done by hand. Grapevine pruning, the early removal of eyes, targeted defoliation and thinning significantly reduce quantities, which greatly increases the intensity of the aroma and the natural sweetness through a much improved leaf to fruit ratio. Soil management is based exclusively on an ecological approach. Fertilizers are avoided through the targeted use of special herbs. In the cellar, Riesling is produced in individually temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The red wines are matured in barrique barrels. It is important - says Alf Ewald - to protect the product by ensuring cool fermenting temperatures, avoiding unnecessary pumping and, first and foremost, by using the force of gravity. Overall, the goal is to produce top-quality wines while respecting the environment, culture and fellow human beings.


Pictures: Alf Ewald

Alf Ewald left Weingut George Mueller Stiftung the day before yesterday, on September 30, 2013. His successor is Tim Lilienstroem.

Vineyards

The estate covers an area of approximately 12 hectares with excellent vineyard locations such as Schützenhaus, Engelmannsberg, Hassel, Wisselbrunnen, Nussbrunnen or Heiligenberg. Of the vineyards on the wine-growing estate approximately 80% grow Riesling and approximately 15% grow Spätburgunder in an environmentally sustainable way. Frühburgunder, Müller Thurgau, Auxerrois und Ehrenfelser are grown in the remaining vineyards.

The Wine Portfolio

The wine portfolio includes about 2 dozens of wines. There are a number of entry-level (Estate) wines and single vineyard wines. The wine portfolio includes Grosses Gewaechs wines as well as fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines. Some wines, including a Pinot Noir wine, are marketed under the PW Selection (Peter Winter) label. Finally, the wine portfolio also includes sparkling wine and a brandy.

Picture: The Wines of Weingut Georg Mueller Stiftung

Donald Hess

Whenever I visit Weingut George Mueller Stiftung, I am reminded of Donald Hess. Both share a passion for wine and art. Donald Hess from Bern, Switzerland, started his astonishing journey of buying and establishing wineries and art galleries around the globe in 1978, when he was in his early forties already.


Pictures: Donald Hess' Glen Carlou Estate in South Africa, including Wine Cellar and Art Exhibition

See also:
Wine, Art and Food: Donald Hess’ Glen Carlou Estate in South Africa

Over the past decades, he has bought or established several wineries all over the globe, in the US, in Argentina, in South Africa, in Australia and the US. Today, Hess Family Estates own six New World cellars and vineyards. Donald Hess is also into art. His Napa Valley collection opened in 1989 in the original winery built in 1903. The Museum at the Glen Carlou Winery outside Paarl South Africa opened in 2006, and his latest passion in Bodega Colomé, not only has an art gallery but also has a stunning hotel.

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The 256 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc of the 2011 Vintage Announced, France

Pictures: Christian and Annette Schiller with a Magnum 2006 Chateau Le Crock in Pauillac, when the 2011 Cru Bourgeois List was Announced. The Chateau Le Crock is on the 2011 Cru Bourgeois List. Chateau Le Crock is owned by the Cuvelier family. See also: Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Four years ago, Cru Bourgeois du Médoc became an annual label, awarded annually to any winemaker that met the conditions for the Cru Bourgeois label.

In September 2013, the 2011 labels were announced. 256 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc make up the new Official Selection for the 2011 vintage. Around 28m bottles of wine are expected to carry the Cru Bourgeois mark, accounting for approximately 30% of the Medoc's production, representing 4,400 hectares of vines.

See here for a complete listing of the 256 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc for the 2011 vintage.

The Cru Bourgeois Classification of 1932

From 1932 to the end of the 1900s, the Cru Bourgeois du Medoc system was a classification system set in stone. The first Cru Bourgeois list was drawn up by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Chamber of Agriculture in 1932, selecting 444 estates from the Medoc for the classification. These were wines that were not included in the 1855 Classification of Crus Classes, but still of high quality.

Cru Bourgeois du Médoc Today: A Label Awarded Annually

Today, the Cru Bourgeois du Medoc is a wine label that is awarded annually, on the basis of an assessment of both production methods and the wine. Any property in the Médoc may apply. Chateaus’ production methods are periodically inspected and their wines are submitted to an independent panel for annual tasting.

The first vintage that came under the current system, is the 2008 vintage, announced in 2010.

Note that some very highly regarded wines outside the 1855 classification such as Château Gloria and Château Sociando-Mallet do not submit their wines for the Cru Bourgeois du Medoc classification. Thus, there is a sizable number of top producers in the Medoc today that are neither in the 1855 classification nor in the Cru Bourgeois du Medoc classification.

Picture: The Cru Bourgeois Label

The Cru Bourgeois Classification of 2003 (Annulled)

In between the current annual classification system and the 1932 classification system set in stone, there was a new classification introduced in 2003 that was subject to a lot of controversy and later annulled. Of the 490 châteaux that applied to be included in the classification of 2003, only 247 were included, a significant contraction of the original listing made in 1932 (444 estates).

The 2003 Cru Bourgeois classification classified the 247 properties in three tiers: Exceptionnel (9 properties), Supérieurs (87 properties) and straight Bourgeois (151 properties).

In February 2007, the 2003 was annulled. At this point, the 1932 classification was briefly reinstated, with its single tier and 444 estates.

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