Wednesday, October 27, 2021

Wine & Spirits Magazine List of Top 100 Wineries of 2021 includes Weingut Dr. Loosen, Mosel, Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel, Weingut Dönnhoff, Nahe and Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe, Germany/ USA

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, and Chateau Ste. Michelle`s Head Winemaker Bob Bertheau at Pro-Wein in Düsseldorf

 
Picture: In the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr with Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel

 
Picture: Christian Schiller and Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff

 
Picture: Cellar Tour at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf with Stefan and Georg Rumpf, Nahe

Wine & Spirits Magazine announced its list of Top 100 Wineries of 2021 a few weeks ago. According to Wine & Spirits Magazine, Wine & Spirits tastes thousands of wines through an exclusive blind tasting process and, from those tastings, the editors select the Top 100 Wineries of the year. From Burgundy in the center of France to Margaret River in Western Australia, these awards call out remarkable portfolios of wines.

This year`s list includes 4 producers from Germany. 

Weingut Dr. Loosen, Mosel

Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel

Weingut Dönnhoff, Nahe

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe

These are all outstandig producers and we have visited all of them on an ombiasy wine tour by Annette Schiller, three of them several times.

Weingut Dr. Loosen, Mosel 

Situated on Germany’s Mosel River among some of the world’s most treasured vineyards, the Dr. Loosen estate has been in the same family for more than 200 years.

When Ernst Loosen assumed ownership in 1988, he realized that, with ungrafted vines averaging 60 years old in some of Germany’s top-rated vineyards, he had the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class Rieslings.

To achieve this, Ernst immediately changed the estate’s vineyard practices to dramatically reduce crop size. He stopped all chemical fertilization, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilizers and soil amendments.


Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel, with Ernie Loosen - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling

He extended his commitment to sustainable practices beyond the vineyards and into the winery, implementing improvements in materials recycling, energy efficiency and water conservation.

At harvest, he insisted on fully mature fruit that had been very strictly selected. And he turned to gentler cellar practices that would allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of technological meddling.

Today, Dr. Loosen wines are widely enjoyed around the globe and continue to receive awards and accolades from top reviewers.

Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel

Loosen Bros. USA: The historic Fritz Haag wine estate is located in the heart of the central Mosel River Valley. The earliest documentation of the estate dates back to 1605. At that time, the village in which it is situated was known as “Dusemond.” In 1925, this village was renamed “Brauneberg” (“brown mountain,” a reference to the color of the slate soil in this area of the Mosel) in an endeavour to further promote the reputation of its world-renowned vineyards “Brauneberger Juffer” and “Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr.”

The name “Juffer,” which translates as “old maid” in the local dialect, goes back to 1790. The proprietor of these exceptional vineyards at the time, the aristocratic Kurpfälzische Kammerherr Wunderlich, had three daughters who all remained unmarried and lived the lives of spinsters. As a consequence, when they took over the vineyard management from their father, the name “Brauneberger Juffer” was born and the wines soon became famed throughout the wine world. The vineyards are recognised as true pearls of the Mosel region and were treasured even by Napoleon.

Pictures: Tasting and Vineyard Walk with Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

For many years, the Fritz Haag wine estate was successfully headed by the endlessly energetic Wilhelm Haag, and achieved under his guidance a world-renowned reputation. Wilhelm Haag was the first to be named Gault Millau’s “Winemaker of the Year,” a highly coveted accolade introduced in 1994. Since 2005, his son Oliver has taken over the reins and has followed his legendary father in leading the estate into the future.

The Fritz Haag estate owns 17.5 ha of vineyards which are all exclusively planted with Riesling. The excellent micro-climate and the deep slate soils of the Brauneberg hillside yield some of the most intensely flavored and elegantly-structured Riesling wines of the Mosel region. Oliver Haag rigorously selects the clones most suited to the microclimate of his vineyards in order to achieve the maximum potential in the grapes. His wines, which display a pleasing subtle color, show a well-defined palate that reaches from honeysuckle to pears and apples. They are laced with citrus and underlying mineral tones, reflecting the slate vineyards of Brauneberg.

The Fritz Haag estate produces wines that cover the full style spectrum, starting from a dry style and ranging to lusciously sweet. A mineral “slate” character and a pronounced and fruity acidity give the wines their sleek sophistication and their great aging potential. The estate’s graceful, well-refined Rieslings are rated as impressive examples of the finest wines the Mosel region has to offer.


Pictures: In the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr with Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel

Weingut Dönnhoff, Nahe

The Dönnhoff family first came to the Nahe Valley over 200 years ago. The Dönnhoffs were a mixed farm up until the 20th century, with cereal crops, vegetables, fruit and livestock in addition to grapes. Helmut's grandfather Hermann made the transition from mixed farm to focus entirely on winegrowing. Helmut Dönnhoff took over day-to-day responsibility from his father in 1971.

Pictures: Helmut Doennhoff Receiving the Ombiasy Group 

From the initial 4 hectares of land Helmut Dönnhoff expanded the estate to now 25 hectares. Today, his son Cornelius works alongside in the winery; in fact, ownership and responsibility has been formally transferred to Cornelius Dönnhoff.

Pictures: An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

“Most people in wine today make it for business”, Helmut Doennhoff said. “I make it for me, myself”. Helmut Doennhoff compared his winemaking with music and cooking. “There are many wonderful scores, but only a few people can interpret them well. Or it is like a chef: people have the same ingredients but each chef brings another taste to them”.

Helmut Dönnhoff was described by Hugh Johnson as having a "fanatical commitment to quality, and a remarkable natural talent for winemaking" and as a "superstar" of the region by Robert Parker. Helmut Doennhoff was named German Winemaker of the Year in 1999 by the Gault Millau WeinGuide.

80% of Dönnhoff's of vineyard holdings grow Riesling grapes, with the remaining 20% Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.

Pictures: Tasting with Helmut Doenhoff

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe

“In our family, viniculture has been tradition since 1708 - a tradition that we have been cultivating in our vineyards as well as in our manor house which was built back in 1830” said Georg Rumpf. Stefan Rumpf, Georg’s father, brought Weingut Kruger-Rumpf up to where it is today: After completing his studies in agricultural sciences, including stints in Californian wineries, and conducting research at the Geisenheim research institute, Stefan Rumpf took over the estate from his parents in 1984. Up until then, the wines were sold almost entirely in bulk. Stefan Rumpf changed this and started to bottle his wines and to market the bottles himself. Less than 10 years later, in 1992, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf was invited to join the VDP, the about 200 German elite winemakers, a clear sign of what Stefan Rumpf had achieved over the course of just 8 years.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller in the Vineyard with Georg Rumpf during a previous Visit of Weingut Kruger-Rump. See: Wine Dinner with Tour at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Georg Rumpf – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) 

Today, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf has 4 (of 5) grapes in the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares and the annual production is 14.000 cases. The top sites are: Münsterer Dautenpflänzer (slate with sandy loam); Münsterer Pittersberg (slate); Münsterer Rheinberg (weathered quartzite and sandy loam); Binger Scharlachberg Rheinhessen (Rotliegend and porphyry). 

Grape varieties: 65% Riesling, 10% each of Silvaner and Weissburgunder, 5% each of Chardonnay, Grauburgunder and Spätburgunder. In fact, Kruger-Rumpf was the first estate in the Nahe region to plant Chardonnay. 

Georg Rumpf has taken over the winemaking aspect of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, while his father is now more focusing on sales and general management. 

Weingut Krueger-Rumpf sells 70% of its production in Germany and exports the remaining 30%. Accordingly, “80% of the wines we produce are dry wines” said Georg “and 20% are fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines.”

 
Pictures: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Stefan and Georg Rumpf - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling

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Wine Harvest 2021 in Germany (Derek Vinnicombe)

Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel, with Ernie Loosen - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling

Tasting and Vineyard Walk with Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany  

Wine Dinner with Tour at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Georg Rumpf – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Stefan and Georg Rumpf - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling

Monday, October 25, 2021

Dinner at Bidlabu, 15 Points Gault Millau, in Frankfurt, with GM/ Sommelier Dietmar Fritz and Chef André Rickert, Germany

Picture: Dinner at Bidlabu, 15 Points Gault Millau, in Frankfurt, with GM/ Sommelier Dietmar Fritz and Chef André Rickert, Germany
 
Bidlabu is a top 10 restaurant in Frankfurt downtown with 15/ 20 points in the Gault Millau Deutschland. It is owned and run by GM/ Sommelier Dietmar Fritz and Chef André Rickert.
 
Annette Schiller and I enjoyed a wonderful date-night dinner there last night, with amazing food and wines. 
 
Hidden in a dark alley off Goethestrasse, Frankfurt’s high-end shopping street, bidlabu provides fine dining in a relaxed and casual atmosphere. You have a choice between 4 (Euro 60), 5, 6 and 7 (Euro 90) courses.
 
Due to covid, all seats have been moved outside with 2 large awnings providing protection in case of rain (as we needed yesterday for about 15 minutes).

Michelin Guide Deutschland 2021: This extremely pleasant little bistro is a tucked away in the heart of the city, just around the corner from the shopping street Fressgass. The owner and the chef are experts through and through, as can be seen not least from the tasty, ambitious market cuisine, e. g. the char, pumpkin, green apple and watercress. Very fairly priced lunch menu. 

In the Michelin Guide Deutschland 2021, bidlabu is listed with a Michelin plate. In the Gault Millau Guide Deutschland 2021, it has 15/ 20 stars. 















Pictures: Dinner at Bidlabu, 15 Points Gault Millau, in Frankfurt, with GM/ Sommelier Dietmar Fritz and Chef André Rickert, Germany

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Friday, October 22, 2021

Zoom Tasting with Christina Artner Netzl of Weingut Franz and Christine Netzl, Carnuntum, Austria - Chain Bridge Cellars, McLean, Virginia

Pictures: Zoom Tasting with Christina Artner Netzl of Weingut Franz and Christine Netzl, Carnuntum, Austria - Chain Bridge Cellars, McLean, Virginia and Christian Schiller and Christina Netzl in Göttlesbrunn in the Carnuntum

Weingut Christine and Franz Netzl is one of Austria’s leading wine producers, located in the Carnuntum, south-east of Vienna. 

I met Franz and Christine Netzl for the first time in 2010, when they introduced their wines with importer Klaus Wittauer to the American market. 

A year later, during the summer of 2011, I went over to Austria for a wedding in the Burgenland; I gave the Netzls a call and they were so nice to invite me over to the Estate. We spent a lovely afternoon together at their winery, which ended on the terrace of the Netzls with a glass of Zweigelt, watching a photo shooting session for the new Netzl catalog.

Now, a Zoom tasting during the corona period with Christina Artner Netzl and Klaus Wittauer arranged by Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Virginia. The event started at 5:00 in the afternoon in McLean while it was 23:00 in Austria. 






Pictures: Zoom Tasting with Christina Artner Netzl of Weingut Franz and Christine Netzl, Carnuntum, Austria - Chain Bridge Cellars, McLean, Virginia

Wine Tastings in the Washington DC Area in times of Covid 

As everywhere else, wine tastings and wine dinners have been drastically cut back in the Washington DC area in the past 18 months due to covid.

This was an online tasting, where the organizer refilled the wines into small badges which the participants could pick up before the tasting. There is a wide spectrum of how tasting events are currently organized in the Washington DC area. 

At the other extreme are events, in-person and indoor, without any restrictions who can attend. I have not been to such an event but I see them being advertised.

The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) has moved back to in-person, indoor events, with only vaccinated people allowed to attend and the CDC card checked before one enters the venue.

The Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar, which holds tastings every Tuesday, was moved to a hybrid solution: two in-person and indoor events and two online events per month. For the in-person events, vaccination is required, although not checked when I went. 

Until now, the American Wine Society (John Marshall Chapter) had no rules with regard to vaccination, but all events took place outdoors. With the cooler months arriving and indoor tastings becoming the rule, the chapter just moved to a "vaccinated people only" policy. 

The large majority of restaurants in the Washington DC area do not have any vaccination requirements for indoor dining. However, there is a small group of restaurants that do. The Washingtonian, for example, has put together a list of restaurants where you have to show your CDC card in order to be admitted.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Christine and Franz Neztl in Washington DC, USA, in 2010. See: Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

Invitation

In Austrian wine circles, Christina Netzl is widely recognized as one of the country’s elite winemakers. She and her family have helped cement the reputation of Carnuntum as a great source of rich but vibrant reds, her Anna-Christina bottling routinely ears 94-95 point ratings from the press, and her 2013 Anna-Christina was named the best wine in all of Austria by a leading publication.

And, as you’ll discover when you join us for this fun and delicious virtual tasting, she’s a joy to talk with and learn from, too! Building on a family legacy dating from the mid-1600s and a decision to become a winemaker made at age 5, Christina is the perfect person to introduce you to the Roman and modern wine history of Carnuntum, describe the unique character of Austria’s smallest wine region, explain her decision to convert to organic farming, and share some breathtakingly beautiful wines! We’ll taste:
  • Netzl Chardonnay Carnuntum 2020 (no oak, tons of flavor)
  • Netzl Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) Ried Altenberg 2019 (following up the 93 point 2018)
  • Netzl Edles Tal Gottlesbrunn 2018 (Zweigelt/Merlot/Syrah) (93 points the past 3 vintages)
  • Netzl Carnuntum Anna-Christina 2017 (Wine Enthusiast 95 points)
  • Netzl Carnuntum Anna-Christina 2018 (even better and the US debut!)
You can join in the conversation and try five of Christina’s top bottling for $25 for each set of samples.

We’ll be providing 3oz samples of each wine in airtight pouches prepared the day of the event. Each pouch represents about 60% of a full glass of wine, making a generous tasting pour for one and a just-right sample for two.

Pouches will be available for pick-up at Chain Bridge Cellars from 10am-5pm the day of the event and we’ll email you the Zoom link early next week and again on Sunday.
 
Also joining us online will be our very favorite Austrian wine-master, importer Klaus Wittauer. And, we hope, you!

You can reserve your sample set right now by clicking the button below. You won’t find a more exciting set of wines or a more charming wine guide than Christina anywhere!
 
Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl at their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria

The Netzl Estate is located in the small town of Göttlesbrunn in the Carnuntum. The family has been involved in wine production since 1820. Weimgut Christine and Franz Netzl is regarded as one of those responsible for the red wine boom in Austria.

Pictures: Weingut Christine and Franz Netzl, Carnuntum

The vineyard area totals 26 hectares, with holdings in the Aubühel, Bärnreiser, Haidacker, Holzweg, Kräften and Neuberg sites. 80% of the area is planted with the red varieties Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, while the remaining 20% is planted with the white varieties Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Welschriesling. A bottle-fermented sparkling wine is also produced. Annual production is around 80.000 bottles of wine, which includes the wine made from grapes on the market, equivalent to about 5 hectares. "We do not want to go beyond 35 hectares in total" said Christine.

In the Winecellar with Christine

The first thing we did after arriving at Weingut Netzl on a Saturday afternoon was to visit the wine cellar with Christine; Franz was still bottling.

Pictures: Franz Netzl Bottling

“Christine” said Franz later when we went to the vineyards together “is the heart and the soul of our house. She combines the pleasure of taste with great sensory talent. She built up our winery together with me.” Christine is a certified sommelier and is responsible for public relations, sales and the office. Christine Netzl is a member of the "Die schwarzen Katzen aus Göttlesbrunn" (black cats of Göttlesbrunn) female winemakers association.

Pictures: With Christine Netzl in the Wine Cellar

Walking through the wine cellar, Christine explained: “We produce mainly complex and structured red wines full of juice (75 %), but also fresh, fizzy and aromatic whites. We try to maintain the elegance, finesse and character of the grapes and the wines to make the sniffer into the glass and the pleasure of the wine a unique experience. Zweigelt definitely is the King of our grapes – very typical for our region and therefore you can find Zweigelt through all our range starting from classic up to premium.”

Weingut Netzl has about 700 barrique barrels; each year, the Netzls buy about 100 new barrels, so they are used for 7 years on average.

In the Vineyard with Franz

After touring the wine cellar and watching Franz finishing bottling wine, Franz took us on a tour of the Weingut Netzl’s vineyards. During the wine cellar tour, Christine said about her husband Franz: “He is the thinker. He skillfully combines tradition, proven methods, and innovation, new technologies! That’s how he brought up the renowned winery from a mixed agricultural farm with only a few vines. After his education at the wine school in Klosterneuburg, he took over from his parents and concentrated fully on making wine.” Franz is responsible for the cellar and vineyards, but he is also involved with public relations and sales.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Franz Netzl in the Vineyards

“Our vines grow, thrive and ripen on the soft hills of the Arbesthaler Hügelland. In terms of climate, we have a lot of sunshine with enough rainfalls. We get very ripe grapes. We also have cool nights, which helps to make the wine fruity” said Franz while driving through the stunning vineyard area. In term of soil types, loess, loam, gravel and sand prevail. Farming is done on the basis of the concept of sustainability.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Franz Netzl in the Vineyards

""Everything is done manually" said Franz.

At the Tasting Bar

After the vineyard tour, Franz had to join Christine and daughter Christina for a photo session in the back yard of their winery. We, in the meantime, were presented the whole range of Netzl wines by a collaborator. Here are the wines we tasted.

Picture: Christine and Franz Netzl at the Tasting Bar

I went through the Netzl portfolio, including the 2009 Anna-Christina.

2009 Weingut Netzl Anna-Christina

The premium blend, dedicated to the Netzl daughters Annemarie and Christina. 60 % Zweigelt - 20 % Merlot – 20 % Cabernet Sauvignon

Vineyard: Bärnreiser, Aubühel, Haidäcker

Soil: Special terroir of the ‘Arbesthaler Hügelland’, nutritious loam and loess

Climate: For the Anna-Christina we use the best vineyard of every single variety. The Zweigelt comes from Haidacker, where he developes his typical very ripe, but also fresh cherry fruit. Merlot grows at Bärnreiser – a very warm place with deep soils and therefore constant ripening. Therefore the wines are deep, structure and full-bodied. Aubühel is the best place for Cabernet Sauvignon, because here he really gets ripe and brings ripe tannin and dark fruit to our blend.

Vinification: Highly ripe grapes were harvested at the end of September and beginning of October by hand and selected, fermented in temeperature controlled stainless steel tanks, the malolactic fermentation as well as the 20-month aging were made in new small French oak barrels

Alc. content 14,5 % Vol; total acidity 4,9 g/l

Tasting notes: Anna-Christina, this blend combines the juicy cherry fruit of the Zweigelt grape, the powerful structure and ripe tannins of the Cabernet Sauvignon and the smooth and velvety of the Merlot; ruby-garnet red with a dark core, dark and juicy berries and spicy nuances in the nose, complex, multi-layered, good tannins, elegance and charm with concentration.

A Final Drink on the Deck with Christina, Franz and Christine

After the tasting, we joined Christina, Franz and Christine (and her husband as well as their little baby) for a last sip of wine – a Zweigelt – while the family was doing a photo shooting session.

Pictures: Photo Shooting Session in the Vineyard

Picture: The last Bottle with Franz Netzl

Here I also met Christina Netzl-Artner, with her husband Peter Artner and little Lena Artner. Peter Artner is the winemaker and junior boss at Weingut Artner, also in the Carnuntum region.

Pictures: Christina Netzl-Artner, with her Husband Peter Artner and little Lena Artner

“Christina” her mother said “is the creative. She is full of ideas and brings new energy and kick into the winery.” In 2007, she finished studies of international wine management and marketing and started to work at the winery. She is responsible for sales, public relations, marketing, the office “and she accompanies the vines from shooting until harvest and the wines from fermenting till bottling” Christine said.

I did not meet Christina’s sister, Annemarie. “She is a whirlwind. She always smiles and inspires” said her father Franz. “After her studies she started to work outside the winery, but spends every free minute with us and always helps out if needed.”

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