Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Doblo Wine Bar in Budapest
For a country which boasts centuries of wine tradition, Hungary does not have so much of a wine-bar culture. Doblo is one of the few wine bars in Budapest; but it is a very nice one. Another nice wine bar in Budapest, although with a much more international orientation in terms of their wines is Drop Shop: Drop Shop Wine Bar in Budapest, Hungary
Hungary has a Long History of Winemaking
Wine was introduced to Hungary by the Romans. During the Turkish occupation beginning in the early 16th century, displaced Serbs brought the red Kadarka grape to Eger, which was the basis for the red wine blend that later became known as Bull's Blood. It was also during the Turkish occupation that the Tokaji region became known for dessert wines, harvested late to encourage noble rot. After the Ottoman Empire ceded Hungary to the Austrians in 1699, the Germanic influence was felt with the introduction of grape varieties such as Blauer Portugieser. Under Communism, quality was neglected in favor of overcropping and industrial production. Since 1989, when the Berlin wall came down, there has been an impressive rebound.
Hungary’s Wine Regions
Hungary has 22 designated wine regions, in all 4 corners of the country. Some people consider the red wines from Szekszárd and Villány in southern Hungary, where the Heumann wines come from, to be the cream of the crop. Around Lake Balaton, you will find the Balatonfelvidék, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Balatonboglár, and Badacsony regions. Further to the North, the Somló hills and Sopron region also offer fine wine. I have reported about the wines of Franz Reinhard Weninger in Balf here.
Picture: Map of Hungary
The vineyards of the Tokaji region were classified long before Bordeaux, already in the 1700s, with vineyards grouped into 3 categories depending on the soil, sun exposure and potential to develop noble rot. Noble-sweet Tokaji has been Hungary’s crowning glory for hundreds of years. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, noble-sweet Tokaji was a cherished wine enjoyed by the European Courts. Winemakers in Tokaji are struggling now to adjust to new market conditions. See here.
Doblo is located in the middle of Budapest’s Jewish quarter. The interior design is appealing and intimate: the small brick cellar on the ground level has been kept as it was with some tasteful additions such as new-old style furniture. Doblo occasionally hosts exhibitions.
Pictures: Doblo Wine Bar in Budapest
Doblo clearly focuses on Hungarian wine. It offers 70 to 80 Hungarian wines by the glass and 200 Hungarian wines by the bottle. These include winemakers like Kvassay - Villány, Janus - Villány, Tokaj Nobilis - Tokaj, Cezar - Pécs, Pálffy - Köveskál, Oszvald - Somló, Spiegelberg - Somló, Rai Vini - Eger, Eszterbauer - Szekszárd, Merfelsz - Szekszárd, Szeleshát - Szekszárd, Andrássy – Tokaj, Bezerics-Zala, Báró Harruckern - Gyulai pálinka and Katona Wine House – Balatonboglár.
Pictures: Wine Tasting at Doblo Wine Bar
Doblo is also a wine-shop; you can buy all wines to go.
When I went to Doblo Wine Bar, I did not really focus on the food, but I remember that I had a very nice plate with cheese and charcuterie.
Doblo Wine Bar
Dob utca 20 | Central Pest | +36203988863
Tue – Wed 17:00 – 01:00, Thu – Sun 17:00 – 03:00
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