Earlier this month in Washington DC, the French-American Cultural Foundation organized a fundraising gala and a Bordeaux winetasting, on the occasion of its 15th anniversary. The French-American Cultural Foundation is a nonprofit organization that fosters cultural and educational exchanges between France and the United States. His Excellency, François Delattre, Ambassador of France to the United States, presided over the gala.
On the day after the fundraising gala, Constance Milstein, owner of The Jefferson Hotel in Washington DC and a member of the gala committee, opened her lovely salons to gala guests, some wine professionals, diplomats from the French Embassy and some members of the Congressional French Caucus for a special tasting of wines from the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. I was graciously invited by Karen Taylor, the editor of France Magazine, whom I met earlier in the year at a dinner with Henri Lurton of Chateau Brane-Cantenac.
See here:
Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA
Philippe Castéja
Philippe Castéja was the star of the tasting. He wears several hats. He is the President of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855. He is the Managing Director of Borie – Manoux, a négociant house since 1882 and one of the last to be family owned and run independently in Bordeaux. He is the owner and/or CEO of a number of Bordeaux chateaux both on the left and right bank. He is the President of French association of wine and spirit exporters (FEVS). Around ten years ago, he was also president of the Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB).
Another branch of the family owns the wine merchants Joanne and Chateau Doisy Vedrines in Sauternes, and the Castejas been involved in wine in the region for several centuries.
Philippe Casteja owns or manages: Chateau Batailley, Pauillac, Chateau Beau Site, St Estephe Cru Bourgeois, Chateau Trotte Vielle, St Emilion 1ere Grand Cru Classé, Chateau Bergat, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, Chateau Domaine de L’Eglise, Pomerol, Chateau Pignon Lalande, Pomerol, Chateau Lynch Moussas, Pauillac, Chateau Haut Bages Monpelou, Pauillac, Chateau Baret, Pessac Leognan (manages), Chateau La Croix Ducasse, Pomerol (manages), plus brands: Cuvee Borie, Beauroy, Beau Rivage, Port Royal, Chevalier de Lynch. Berry Bros’ Good Ordinary Claret is made by Borie Manoux.
Bérénice Lurton
Bérénice Lurton, who owns and manages Chateau Climens, was pouring the noble-sweet Bordeaux wines, including her own.
Château Climens was first mentioned in 1547. Since then only five families called Climens their home, with the Lurton family being the last owner when Lucien Lurton bought the estate in 1971. In 1992 Bérénice Lurton, Lucien Lurton’s youngest daughter took over the reins at Château Climens. The estate sits on the highest point in the Barsac appellation and is surrounded by 75 acres of vineyard. The vineyard is entirely planted with Semillion - unusual for a Sauterne – which gives the Climens wines its racy complexity and freshness. Work in the vineyard is based on biodynamic principles and in 2011 Château Climens received the biodyvin certification.
A tour and tasting at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauterne, Premier Grand Cru Classé, was one of the highlights of the 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours.
See here:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
David Ludovic
David Ludovic is the Director General of Château Marquis de Terme, a 4th growth in the 1855 classification.
Pierre-Louis and Philippe Sénéclauze own the estate that their father, a wine barrel merchant in Algeria, bought in 1935. During the Algerian war, the Sénéclauzes settled in Marseille and built up a wine empire in France, hiring Bordeaux specialists to run their Margaux property.
Château Marquis de Terme was once part of the vast Rauzan estate owned by Pierre de Mesures de Rauzan in the mid-17th century. Over time, this estate was divided, and by the time of the 1855 Classification, had been separated into the estates of Château Rauzan-Gassies, Château Rauzan-Ségla, Château Desmirail, and Château Marquis de Terme.
The vineyard at Marquis de Terme is 100 acres in size and is made up mostly of gravel-soil over clay. The vines average 30 years and are made up of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon,35% Merlot,7% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Production is 180,000 bottles. The average wine searcher price for the 2011 vintage is US$ 40.
Before joining Marquis de Terme in 2009, David Ludovic worked for 9 years at Chateau Bonalgue/Clos du Clocher in Pomerol and for 5 years as Technical Director with Bernard Magrez.
Aaron Nix-Gomez’s Tasting Notes
Last but not least, Aaron Nix-Gomez was among the wine bloggers that were invited and he has already issued his excellent tasting notes, which I am re-issuing below.
Aaron Nix-Gomez: “Please find my brief tasting notes arranged in the order presented by the tasting sheet. The wines classified by Jefferson in 1787 are marked with a star. I was particularly taken by the 2009 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2000 Chateau Montrose, 1990 Chateau Boyd Cantenac, and 2005 Chateau Climens.
1990 Chateau Boyd Cantenac, Margaux
The nose bore mature aromas and wood box. In the mouth were mature but surprisingly ripe berries which expanded in the mouth. There was lots of berry grip towards the finish which was followed by a good aftertaste. The juicy acidity mixed well with black minerals in the finish and an earthy note. Drinking well now with plenty of life ahead.
2010 Chateau Boyd Cantenac, Margaux
In the mouth the flavors began with a vanilla note, toast, and a round personality. It maintained concentration with smokey graphite, flavors, and strong, drying, citric, tannins in the finish.
2007 Chateau Branaire Ducru, Saint-Julien
There was a good, rich nose of cherries, red berries. In the mouth was round red fruit, minerally acidity, then black fruit with some weight. There were some greenhouse tannins, integrated acidity, and blacker fruit in the finish. The wine left some tannins on the teeth which were a little spicy. Drinking well.
2006 Chateau Lagrange, Saint-Julien
There was an earthy, berry nose with hints of maturity. There was bright acidity, vigor, and a wood note. Will age.
2007 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien
This wine played it close at first with a hint of salivating acidity. It showed more structure, drying flavors, and will clearly last for some time.
2007 Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Saint-Julien
There was a grapey nose which finished with earthy aromas. In the mouth was concentrated red fruit followed by black fruit and drying tannins. The finish was firmer.
2009 Chateau Saint-Pierre, Saint-Julien
There was a slightly earthy nose with aromas of blue berries. In the mouth were red and black fruit with the acidity and tannins building into a firm structure of ripe tannins.
2005 Chateau Batailley, Pauillac
The nose had hints of maturity. In the mouth the wine was more austere before building in flavor to reveal hard red fruit.
2009 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac
The round nose was perfumed and young. There was young red fruit in the mouth, tart acidity, and gentle integration with the very fine, ripe tannins persisting through the perfumed aftertaste. Built for long development.
2006 Chateau Pontet Canet, Pauillac
There was cassis on the nose followed by tart, red fruit in the mouth. The drying structure and acidity was present but the wine is very young with graphite and black fruit in the finish. It was a little spicy.
2000 Chateau Montrose, Saint-Estephe
There was a classic nose with a mature aspect. In the mouth there were fresh flavors, ripeness, expansion, and a controlled, classic structure for further development. Nice but will continue development.
2009 Chateau Filhot, Sauternes
There was higher toned flavors followed by honied, yellow fruit which builds to add moderate spice. There was a rich, creamy, apricot aftertaste. The wine has underlying acidity.
2005 Chateau Guiraud, Sauternes
The nose was nutty with the flavors in the mouth evocative of a mature Bordeaux. There were spices, creme brulee, and a cola hint. The acidity was noticeable on the sides of the tongue. The aftertaste was spicy.
2005 Chateau Climens, Barsac
There was a good, complex nose. The mouth followed the nose with balance, a glycerine mouth feel, acidity, and complex spices. The yellow fruit mixed with frangipane. The flavors were big and mouthfilling. Hard to resist now but it has a long future ahead.
2007 Chateau Coutet, Barsac
The nose revealed marmalade and peach aromas. In the mouth there was rich weight to the yellow fruit. There was a hint of spices, underlying acidity, and a honied, sticky aftertaste. Tastes like a lot of residual sugar.
2010 Chateau Nairac, Barsac
The nose was light with more white than yellow fruit aromas. In the mouth the wine was heavier and much thicker than the nose suggested. There were yellow fruit flavors, brighter acidity towards the end, and a little salivating aspect in the aftertaste.
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