Tuesday, January 22, 2013
Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA
When my friend and wine journalist Panos Kakaviatos is in town, there is always a flurry of tastings taking place in Washington DC. This time, he and Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages had arranged with Jean-Bernard Grenié from Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay in Saint Emilion a tasting at the trendy Black Salt Restaurant on MacArthur Boulevard, just next to Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, US.
For more on Panos Kakaviatos, see:
A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos
Château Angélus is - newly promoted – one of only 4 Premier Grand Cru Classé A, AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru producers, the top category in the Saint Emilion Classification.
Château Angélus has been owned by the de Boüard de Laforest family since 1909, when the Domaine de Mazaret was bequeathed to Comte Maurice de Boüard de Laforest.
The name refers to the three Angelus bells audible from the vineyards, coming from the chapel at Mazerat, the church in Saint-Martin de Mazeret and Saint-Émilion.
Château Angélus consists of 23.4 hectares with a grape variety of 51% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon.
The estate also produces a second wine, Le Carillon de l’Angelus. The annual production averages 10,000 cases of the Grand Vin and 1,000 cases of the second wine.
In June 2012, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, was named Executive Manager. The family of Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal has been making wine in Saint Emilion for nine generations.
Hubert de Boüard de Laforest and Jean-Bernard Grenié
Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal is the daughter of Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, who had joined the family business at Angélus in 1976. Until she took over, Château Angélus had been run - for several decades - by Stephanie’s father Hubert de Boüard de Laforest and her uncle Jean-Bernard Grenié, who presented the wines at Black Salt. Initially, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest worked under his uncle, but he became the #1 in 1985.
Ombiasy Wine Tours and Christian G.E. Schiller before the dinner
Starting with the 1988 vintage, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest rapidly changed things at Château Angélus. He was one of the first Bordeaux wine makers to embrace fermenting in open top vats and conducting malolactic in small barrels. In the vineyard, he lowered yields. He began aging wines in new oak barrels.
Today, fermentation takes place in a combination of temperature controlled stainless steel vats, concrete and open top, oak vats at 28 to 32° degrees Celsius. Everything in the cellar moves by gravity flow. After malolactic fermentation in barrel is completed, the wine is aged in 100% new, French oak barrels for between 18-24 months.
In addition to progressive winemaking, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest also has embraced new kinds of marketing, including movie product placement. Angélus has made appearances in three dozen films, including “Casino Royale” in 2006 and “Passion” last year.
This has helped the chateau reach new consumers in Asia, who now account for 55 percent of sales, up from 15 percent in 2005, Jean-Bernard Grenié said.
The de Boüard de Laforest family also owns other estates in the Right Bank including Chateau Bellevue and Chateau Daugay in St. Emilion and La Fleur de Bouard in Lalande Pomerol.
Chateau Daugay is an unclassified AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru estate. It emerged, when the initial estate was divided into Daugay and Tertre Daugay in 1909. In 1920, Chateau Daugay was bought by Henriette de Boüard de Laforest, whose brother, Maurice de Boüard de Laforest, had taken over Angelus in 1909. Maurice’s son, Christian de Boüard de Laforest purchased Daugay from his aunt in 1946 and the vineyard was absorbed into that of Angelus until 1985 when Daugay returned to being an autonomous château. Since 2006, Hélène Grenié de Boüard, the daughter of Christian de Boüard de Laforest has run the estate, with her husband, Jean-Bernard Grenié.
The estate consists of 5.5 hectares with a grape variety of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
The wine is aged in 50% in one year old French oak barrels and 50% in stainless steel vats for between 18-20 months.
Annual production is 2000 cases, distributed through Nath. Johnston and Fils. Ivanhoe Johnston was also present at the dinner. Chateau Daugay sells at around US$ 25.
(The owners of Chateau Haut Brion purchased the Chateau Tertre Daugay estate in May, 2011 from Count Léo de Malet-Roquefort the owner of Chateau La Gaffeliere and changed its name to Chateau Quintus. 2010 is the last vintage of Chateau Tertre Daugay.)
Black Salt is the Black Restaurant Group’s popular flagship in the Palisades area, directly next to McArthur’s. It combines a terrific on-site market for fresh fish, a lively bar, the main dining room and the somewhat more intimate and elegant back room, where tasting took place. Black Salt is one of the leading fish restaurants in town. I like to go there for oyster happy hour.
Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages
Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages is – with Calvert and Woodley - Washington DC's leading retailer and importer of fine wines and spirits. MacArthur Beverages was founded in 1957 by Addy & Ruth Bassin and is located at 4877 MacArthur Blvd. in Washington DC. Ruth Bassin and her two daughters are the sole owners of MacArthur Beverage.
The superb dinner was prepared by Chef Thomas Leonard.
Wood Grilled Prosciutto Wrapped Figs
Walnuts, Frisee, Mixed Berry-Balsamic
Chateau Daugay 2008
Panos Kakaviatos: “Because Chateau Daugay 2008 was so smooth and even somewhat light while the 2009 more voluminous and tannic (ripe tannins), I decided to reverse the order and have the 2008 go first with the delectable wood grilled prosciutto wrapped figs, followed by the richer 2009 to better match the second plate of Hudson Valley Foie Gras with pan seared sea scallop in a port reduction sauce with poached pear.”
Pan Seared Sea Scallop and Hudson Valley Foie Gras
Toasted Brioche, Poached Pear, Port Reduction
Chateau Daugay 2009
Pepper Crusted Bigeye Tuna
Chaterelles, Truffled Sherry Vinaigrette, Wild Mushroom Risotto
Chateau Daugay 2005
Panos Kakaviatos: “Another reversal: instead of the Daugay 2006 preceding the 2005, I opted to serve the 2005 – whose tannins and structure were far more imposing – with the pepper crusted bigeye tuna (albeit the strong pepper notes, balanced by the strong tannin of the 2005, seemed a touch obtrusive). The fourth course of wood grilled prawns and Duroc pork belly served over a bed of white beans (not unlike a Cassoulet) proved a fine match for the more plump and friendly 2006 Daugay.”
Wood Grilled Prawns and Duroc Pork Belly
Rainbow Carrots, White Beans, Spiced Pork Jus
Chateau Daugay 2006
Randall Lineback Veal Short Rib Ragout
Fava Beans, Pearl Onions, Potato Puree
Chateau Angélus 2008
Dark red in the glass, notes of coffee, blackberry and licorice on the nose, ending with black cherry liqueur and dark chocolate flavors, with a lighter edge to the tannic structure and plenty of freshness to the middle. US$ 240
Dessert - Cheese Plate
Chateau Angélus 2005
53% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc. Dark red in the glass, attack of chocolate, truffle, mint, licorice and mineral notes on the nose, endless layers of rich and ripe fruit, coupled with silky tannins, an extremely intense wine, a great pleasure to taste. US$ 420
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