schiller-wine: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, with Sophie Schyler, Owner of Château Kirwan, in New York

The UGC caravan was back in North America with stops in 7 American and Canadian cities, including in New York City on January 23, 2017.

Picture: New York City

The 2017 UGC tastings awarded guests the opportunity to taste more than 100 different 2014 Bordeaux wines, as well as meet and talk with the owners/senior managers of the chateaux that produce the wine.

Picture: UGC Tasting at Cipriano in New York City, 2017

The 2017 UGC Tour of North America began on January 20 in Miami, Florida. From there, the caravan moved to Philadelphia (January 22), New York (January 23), Toronto Canada (January 24, Chicago (January 25), Los Angeles (January 26) to finish in San Francisco on January 27. In some cities, the event was for members of the trade and press only. In others, the event was for the consumer only and in some cities, like New York, there were 2 events, for the trade/ press and for consumers.

Picture: Annette Schiller with Paul Wagner, Founder/ Owner of Balsac Communications, the Organizer of the UGC North America Tours

UGC

Founded in 1973 by a group of Bordeaux winegrowers, the purpose of the UGC is to join forces in order to promote and defend the interests of its members. The UGC consists of 135 member estates located exclusively in the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. The UGC has a permanent staff of 5 assisted by a public relations agency in each major market. The Union organized 50 events in 15 countries last year.

At the top, you do not find the first tier of Bordeaux producer, like Margaux, Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild or Angelus. Going down the quality ladder, at the bottom there are a dozen or so cru bourgeois producers among the membership of the UGC.All others are between these two layers.

Bordeaux Vintage 2014

Panos Kakaviatos on his blog Wine-Chronicles: ...you can find many fine 2014s throughout Bordeaux, especially on the Right Bank, where Merlots reached lovely maturities without ever going too far in alcohol levels, as they sometimes did in more solar vintages. As much was proven at the the UGCB tasting of 2014 Bordeaux in New York in January 2017, which revealed Saint Emilions and Pomerols with pleasing expressions of cooler blue fruit, as well as rich plum fruit, for example. This applies as well to some of the under-estimated Right Bank satellite appellations, such as Fronsac, which I had assessed at a tasting in October last year in Bordeaux.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Panos Kakaviatos in New York

I agree very much with fellow wine writer Michael Apstein of Wine Review Online while tasting 2014s Bordeaux in New York: “The wines are better than the impression left by some early press reports. The reds are ripe and balanced, and the dry whites are fresh and exciting to taste.”

Indeed, the dry whites are quite special in 2014, as they exude exciting freshness and focus as well as concentration. 2014 is certainly a great white wine vintage for Bordeaux. Alas, I did not get to any of the Sauternes…

Overall, 2014 has lived up to its promise from barrel, so I highly recommend the vintage for many of the reds, especially if you are a fan of cooler fruit expressions.

Being somewhat unfairly eclipsed by 2015 – certainly underrated for the northern Médoc – it offers good buys throughout Bordeaux, and you should take advantage especially now, as the U.S. dollar is stronger than when the wines were released as futures, without too much upward pricing since then.

Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher‘s Impressions

I spotted former WSJ Wine Columnists Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher. Here are their impressions (facebook): Everybody's taste is different. We celebrate that in so many things -- music, art, fashion -- but when it comes to wine, not so much. If you don't like a highly rated wine, there must be something wrong with you; and if you found a $9.99 wine you really enjoy, well, really, who are you? In fact, though, the beauty of wine is that it is so very, very personal. A wine's smell, taste, texture and presence each touch people differently, in different ways, depending on so many factors. In our case, we began tasting and talking about wine together in 1973. We learned about wine together. As a result, we generally agree about wines, at least about our overall impression. But not always. Consider the case of the 2014 Château Gruaud Larose. We have loved this Saint-Julien for almost 40 years -- we've had more vintages of it than any other fine Bordeaux. It is structured, generous, classy and awesome with steak (and not as expensive as many other good Bordeaux). Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux sponsored a grand walk-around tasting of the 2014 vintage recently and we both dropped in. With so many wines, we split-up so we could taste as many as possible and then direct each other to the ones we liked best. At some point, Dottie found John, put a glass to his nose and said, "Gruaud Larose! It's really good!" John said, "No, wait, I was looking for you to tell you that it's the first Gruaud Larose I ever had that I didn't much like." So there, amid hundreds of people swirling and spitting these very young wines -- wines that will need plenty of time to come into their own and fully show their stuff -- we discussed what we did and didn't like about this wine at this point. John found it surprisingly thin, though he did like its mineral notes. Dottie really loved the minerals, and also thought it had abundant fruit, with blueberries and blackberries (though a touch of salt, which seemed odd but not unpleasant to her). Who's right? We both are, of course. And when the 2014 is released to stores, we will rush to pick up a bottle so we can slowly drink it together and see what we think. And we'll lay one down for later. We will advise.

Picture: Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher in New York, with Betsy Reynard

Picture: Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, Annette Schiller, and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC. See: 2014 Open That Bottle Night with Founders Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher in Washington DC

Schiller‘s Favorites

Pauillac

2014 Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron

Wine searcher average price in US$ 95

Panos Kakaviatos on his blog Wine-Chronicles: A gorgeous nose, very pure fruit with pencil lead, graphite, a “minerality” that shows breed. The palate is full bodied, layered and feels substantial, weighty, and yet the tannins clamp down and give off a definitively closed impression. Much going on, give it time! (94 pts.)

Picture: Annette Schiller and Jean-Rene Matignon, Technical Director, in New York

Picture: In the Cellar of Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, with Jean-Rene Matignon, Technical Director. See: Tour, Tasting and Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Margaux

2014 Château Kirwan

Wine searcher average price in US$ 45

Panos Kakaviatos: This needs time in bottle to mature. For now the high toned aspect and a certain tannic edge leaves an overall closed impression. The parts are there; they need to come together so will be neutral overall in my evaluation. (90 pts.)

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Sophie Schyler, Owner, in New York

Pictures: Sophie Schyler with Annette and Christian Schiller and Marlene and Charles Bullfighter Reddoor in Washington DC. See: Sophie Schÿler, Owner of Château Kirwan, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, for a Wine Pairing Luncheon at Evo Bistro in McLean, with the Wines of RdV and Clemens Busch, USA/ France/ Germany

Pessac Leognan

2014 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge

Wine searcher average price in US$ 53

Panos Kakaviatos: This proved the promise from barrel, hitting the higher end of my score range when tasted en primeur. Really lovely because at once smoothly textured, elegant, nuanced and substantial. There is a long and lingering finish that beguiles. Great Graves indeed. (94 pts.)

2014 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc

Wine searcher average price in US$ 86

Panos Kakaviatos: Certainly fulfills the promise from barrel and then some. Such refined elegance, with white floral notes, subtle wet stone, like a very fine white Burgundy, and focused through to a long finish. Superb. (95 pts.)

Picture: Annette Schiller and Olivier and Hugo Bernard, Owners, in New York

Pictures: With Owner Olivier Bernard in the Cellar. See: Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner/Director Olivier Bernard – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

2014 Château Haut Bailly

Wine searcher average price in US$ 86

Panos Kakaviatos: As expected (also what was suggested from barrel), this wine exudes pristine focus and elegance and freshness. I realize that some people who prefer the style of, say, Pape Clement, may not appreciate Haut Bailly as much, but this is my style of wine. I would say that Domaine de Chevalier in 2014 has a bit more mid-palate richness that edges above, as does Smith Haut Lafitte, but Haut Bailly pleases with refinement and a long, subtle finish. Give it time in bottle to truly appreciate. (93 pts.)

Picture: Annette Schiller with Daina Paulin and Robert G. Wilmers, Owner, in New York

Picture: Champagne Reception at Château Haut-Bailly with our charming host, Diana Paulin. See. Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Pomerol

2014 Château Beauregard

Wine searcher average price in US$ 34

Panos Kakaviatos: Much better from barrel! This is lovely and perfumed in its expression, with mid palate sap and opulence, and just finely grained tannins that leave a smooth texture on the palate, and a lingering finish. Bravo. (92 pts.)

Picture. Annette Schiller and Vincent Priou, Managing Director, in New York

Picture:The ombiasy Tour Group at Château Beauregard, Appellation Pomerol. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Beauregard, Appellation Pomerol – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

2014 Château Bon Pasteur

Wine searcher average price in US$ 64

Panos Kakaviatos: I love the fruit and a certain pleasing density on the palate, but I feel some oak extraction that is enough to bug me. For lovers of the style, however, score higher. (90 pts.)

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Dany Rolland, Former Owner, in New York

Picture: Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteuurr in Pomerol – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France. and: Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

2014 Château Gazin

Wine searcher average price in US$ 60

Panos Kakaviatos: The candied fruit nose is quite intense, but then the palate conveys richness and concentration that never goes “overboard” and thus leaves the impression of a suave and sensual Pomerol. Nice job! (91 pts.)

Picture: Annette Schiller and Picture: Inès de Bailliencourt, Owner, in New York

St. Emilion

2014 Clos Fourtet

Wine searcher average price in US$ 81

Panos Kakaviatos: Loads of plum and spice, with touches of vanilla. Somewhat like Canon La Gaffeliere, but there is slightly more floral aspects and brightness to this wine, even though a bit of oak derivation is felt on the finish. (92 pts.)

Picture: Annette Schiller and Matthieu Cuvelier, Owner, in New York

Picture: Panos Kakaviatos, Chef Jörg Döpfner, Harry H. Hochheimer, Matthieu Cuvelier, Annette Schiller and Didier Cuvelier in Frankfurt, Germany

St. Estephe

2014 Château Lafon Rochet

Wine searcher average price in US$ 34

Panos Kakaviatos: This has much to like, very fine expressions of dark and red fruit. The Somewhat foreboding tannins, which need time to tame, and which is normal, but they are of a fine grain. Medium body and longish finish. I still think the 2014 is more promising (than the 2015). (92 pts.)

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Basile Tesseron, Owner, in New York

Picture: Annette Schiller with Owner Basile Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclerq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet at Château Lafon-Rochet. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Basile Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

2014 Château Les Ormes de Pez

Wine searcher average price in US$ 26

Panos Kakaviatos: The seduces you with bright red fruit and a certain beguiling spice, and the palate has fine body and sap but the tannins are just a bit raw. Let’s see how it develops in bottle. (90 pts.)

Picture: Christian Schiller and Kinou Cazes-Hachemian, Owner, in New York

St. Julien

2014 Château Langoa Barton

Wine searcher average price in US$ 43

Panos Kakaviatos: Fulfills its promise from barrel with a smooth palate, and fine grained tannins. Ripe fruit with wet stone like minerality leading to a lingering finish make Langoa an excellent wine from bottle in 2014. (92 pts.)

2014 ChâteauLéoville Barton

Wine searcher average price in US$ 68

Panos Kakaviatos: Somewhat like the Pichon Baron, this is powerful and certainly tightly wound. In 2014, the Langoa is clearly more elegant at this very early stage. But there is much substance to the palate and Barton is notorious for taking a bit of time before being ready to drink. I like the full body and the grain of tannin which is very fine. Long finish. (94 pts.)

Picture: Marlene RedDoor and Charles Bearfighter RedDoor with Lilian Barton Sartorius, Owner, in New York

2014 Château Léoville Poyferré

Wine searcher average price in US$ 68

Panos Kakaviatos: An opulent nose of dark fruit leads to a full bodied and rich palate that has balancing acidity and adequate tension. The high tannin is ripe and smooth and – even somewhat glossy overall – with a long finish, albeit with a hint of noticeable extraction. Give it time in bottle. (94 pts.)

Picture: Annette Schiller and Didier Cuvelier, Owner, and his Wife in New York

Picture: Visit of and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, with owner Didier Cuvelier and Maitre de Chai Didier Thomann. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Appellation Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Didier Cuvelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Sauternes – Barsac

2014 Château de Fargues

Wine searcher average price in US$ 108

Picture: Philippe de Lur Saluces, Owner, in New York

Picture: Tasting with Prince Eudes d’Orléans, Managing Director at Château de Fargues. See: Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Haut Medoc Moulis Listrac

Medoc

Graves

2014 Château de Chantegrive Blanc

Wine searcher average price in US$ 14

Panos Kakaviatos: Not as good as, say, Bouscaut, but less expensive and much bang for your white Bordeaux buck. Has fine verve and enough creaminess to make it quite appealing indeed. Have it with oysters or snails. (88 pts.)