schiller-wine: Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Picture: Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

We came in the late afternoon to Château Lafon-Rochet. Basile Tesseron had invited us for a „barbecue“ with his father Michel Tesseron. The „barbecue“ turned out to be a formal dinner in the private dining room of Michel Tesseron with „steak“ being the main course. The barbecue was a most enjoyable and memorable evening in Michel Tesseron‘s private dining room with Michel Tesseron. Before the dinner, Michel gave us a tour of the estate and we had a tasting in Château Lafon-Rochet‘s tasting room.

This posting covers the tour and tasting with Michel Tesseron. The dinner with Michel Tesseron will be covered in a separate posting.

Owner Michel Tesseron was our host. We were also greeted by Directeur Technique Lucas Leclercq.

This Château features some of the finest vineyards in the world. It is situated in the small appellation Saint-Estèphe and is sandwiched between two prominent neighbors: Cos-d’Estournel on the other side of the street and Lafite-Rothschild, separated only by a small dirt track, and visible across the vineyard that belongs to Lafon-Rochet. Since the 16th century this Château makes excellent wines and had been in the hands of the Lafon family for almost 300 years. In 1895 the phylloxera disaster forced the family to sell Château Lafon-Rochet. A period of a rapid succession of several disinterested owners followed until Guy Tesseron (who also bought Château Pontet-Canet) acquired the Château in the 1960s. He and then his son Michel brought Lafon-Rochet back to its former glory. The new generation is now at the helm and Basile Tesseron is energetically pursuing quality control.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Lafon-Rochet

Château Lafon-Rochet

Château Lafon-Rochet is a 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Medoc. It is one of the 5 classified properties in the appellation of Saint Estèphe. Its grounds are separated from those of Château Lafite to the north by the width of the road and from Cos d'Estournel by a dirt path.

Pictures: Welcome - Michel Tesseron and Directeur Technique Lucas Leclerq

History

The history of Château Lafon-Rochet starts in the 16th century, when a portion known as Rochet (because of its rocky terrain) eventually passed by marriage to Etienne de Lafon, who established Lafon-Rochet. The estate then passed down through the Lafon generations for almost 300 years.

When Guy Tesseron became the owner in 1959, it needed a serious restoration and Guy Tesseron did restore it to its former glory. Guy Tesseron was from a Chanterais family, specializing in the Cognac production.

Guy Tesseron first put the vineyards back in order. He then built new chai, and a new château, in the style of the 18th century. Also, some 25 hectares were added to the vineyard.

In 1975, Guy Tesseron also acquired 5th growth Chateau Pontet-Canet from the Cruse family. Both châteaux subsequently passed to the next generation with Lafon-Rochet coming to Michel Tesseron. Currently the property is in the good hands of Michel’s son, Basil Tesseron.

Pictures: With Owner Basile Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclerq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet in the Cellar of Château Lafon-Rochet

Michel and Basile Tesseron

Before joining the family business in 1987, Michel Tesseron worked in in Cognac, then in Bordeaux for Barton & Guestier, and for the négociants Chantecaille.

It was Michel Tesseron who oversaw the painting of the château yellow in 2000. At the same time, the bottles were redesigned and matching yellow labels and capsules are used now.

Basile Tesseron took over with the 2007 vintage and he now has full control.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Basile Tesseron, Owner, in New York. See: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Vineyards and Wine Making

Lafon-Rochet's vineyards covers 45 hectares and are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon 54%, Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 2%.

Basile Tesseron and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet are steering Château Lafon-Rochet towards biodynamic viticulture, following the example of Basile’s uncle at Pontet-Canet. But Lafon-Rochet has not yet been certified.

Pictures: Cellar Tour with Michel Tesseron

During our visit, I saw for the first time the completely renovated wine cellar. Importantly, Basile and Michel Tesseron decided to go the route of stainless steel tanks and concrete vats. To match the 40 different vineyard parcels, the estate now has 18 stainless steel tanks and 18 concrete vats in different sizes and shapes for fermentation. The wine is aged for 9 months in new oak and for another 9 month in used oak.

The grand vin is Château Lafon-Rochet (11000 cases). The second wine is Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet (also 11000 cases per annum and once known as Numéro 2 de Lafon-Rochet).

Tasting

Following the tour, we tasted 3 wines.

Pictures: Tasting with Michel Tesseron

Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet 2011

This second label from Chateau Lafon Rochet is just fabulous and while it is made in the same traditional manner as its famous big brother, the wine reveals itself more rapidly so you can enjoy all summer with your steak barbecues! (Royal Wine Merchants, NYC). Wine-searcher average price: US$30

Lafon-Rochet 2012

A very soft, consumer-friendly style for a St.-Estèphe, Lafon-Rochet's 2012 has a dark ruby/purple color, plum, black cherry and cassis fruit, medium body, and a rather superficial and shallow aftertaste. It has its charm and endearing qualities, but is not terribly concentrated or profound. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. Wine-searcher average price: US$48

Lafon-Rochet 2010

I had some bottle variation with this blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The 2010 from Lafon Rochet seemed slightly restrained and closed down on the three occasions I tasted it in Bordeaux. Dense black/ruby, it displays sweet tannin, excellent purity, fresh fruit and a very primary, almost grapy style with lots of fruit, but at the same time, a somewhat monolithic character. It should turn out fine, but it certainly needs a good 7-8 years of cellaring and should drink well for up to two decades.The property is owned by the Tesseron family and run by the newest generation, son Basile, who is converting the estate to biodynamic farming a la his uncle, Alfred Tesseron at Pontet Canet. (2/ 2013) 90 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. Wine-searcher average price: US$64

Dinner

Following the cellar tour and tasting, we walked over to the private quarters of Michel Tesseron where we had dinner with him.